I intend to build a desk for my home and I am considering making the top
from a veneered torsion box. I would like to hear it now, if my plan is
doomed for some reason. It would be impractical to prototype the
construction methodology, so hopefully I can get consensus of thumbs up or
down.
A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
intend to build it as 3 components: two "drawer pedestals" and a top
assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost right an
left drawers.
Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considering
constructing a 1" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed with
a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this approach
will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could potentially
glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-grain"
issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test run
of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down to
about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That is
not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasonally
and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done with
contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would seem
to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 cauls.
So can this plan work?
Regards
-Steve
I've tossed out the torsion box idea and have decided to "reveneer" some
decent 1/2" plywood. The primary reason that I will not use 3/4" plywood is
the paper-thin veneer. When I glue on a 1"x3" perimeter board I can expect
my alignment to be +/- 1/64". That's fine for a solid wood top. I can
scrape/sand/plane that level. But up against a paper-thin commercial plywood
veneer, I fear that bad things would happen when trying to level the top.
I have the wood to do a solid top but I don't think it would stay flat.
Normally a 36" wide solid table top is not really a big deal because you
have an apron to control and aggregate movement. Unfortunately, this top
needs to be separate, so the rest of the desk can't help keep things stable.
As far as the glue is concerned... I'll try some experiments next week and
post the results.
regards,
Steve
"Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> dadiOH wrote:
>> Jack Stein wrote:
>>> C & S wrote:
>>
>>>> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be
>>>> done with contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not
>>>> work? It would seem to me that it would make the process go quickly
>>>> and not require 37 cauls.
>>> You could use contact cement if it were one large piece of veneer. If
>>> you are gluing up 1/32" thick strips into a large panel, you can't use
>>> contact cement.
>
>> How do you figure that? Join narrow strips, use veneer tape and glue
>> edges together; when wide enough, lay the whole thing with contact
>> cement. Done all the time.
>
> It may be, but generally urea resin glue is used for veneer glue up
> because it allows adjustment and it doesn't creep. I'm no expert on
> veneering, thats for sure, but my experience in wood work is veneering a
> desk top with 1/32 resawn homemade veneer is not something to be
> approached lightly. I can imagine edge gluing 5' lengths of 1/32" resawn
> lumber and then getting them oriented correctly and stuck on a homemade
> torsion box with contact cement. I've never done it mind you, but I would
> think the odds of me getting it right are small, and if I did, the odds of
> the seams staying tight even smaller. Also, cauls are not good, you
> generally would want a vacuum press for something like this. All good
> reasons to go out and by a sheet of plywood, or spend the cash and get
> some nice solid wood. Just edge gluing thick solid wood, one of the
> easiest things for a woodworker to do, seems to generate a hell of a lot
> of discussion here. Veneering is almost another discipline apart from
> general woodwork. At least he should start smaller, like a jewelry box or
> something... Besides just trying to get biscuits into the edge of a 1/32"
> hunk of oak veneer would be a real bitch:-)
>
>>> Seems like a heck of a lot of work to go through all
>>> that when you can just by a sheet of oak plywood.
>
>> I can't argue with that :)
>
>
>
> --
> Jack
> Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
> http://jbstein.com
Jack Stein wrote:
> C & S wrote:
>
>>> I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
>>> as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
>>> intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
>>
>>
>> I agree, easier. However, I'll have to drop nearly a C-note for a
>> sheet of decent pywood and then it's a crap shoot as to how well the
>> color and grain will match the rest of the piece.
>
>
> HD sells 4x8 sheets of 3/4" oak for $55.00.
>
The oak plywood sold by the Home Depots in my area uses rotary cut
veneer which, in my opinion, looks terrible for large surfaces.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
I envisioned some sort of apron or molding on the underside of the
table top that slides down over the drawer boxes when put in place.
Probably no attachment necessary but it could have some sort of hold
down on the uniderside to lock it in for stability.
On Sep 20, 11:06=A0am, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:9a13c6d0-e54b-49fd-941b-dfa75d122457@y28g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> I think I would make the whole thing modular, including the outer
> drawer boxes. Maybe even just two outer boxes that each incorporate
> all drawers for each side and a top with just a center drawer that
> sits over the top. Much easier to move later.
>
> I think you have a good point there. I was thinking the upper drawer carc=
ass
> would stiffen the assembly. But with full height drawer boxes it's easier=
to
> hide (under the overhang) any non-co-planerness of the components caused =
by
> a 150 year old floor.
>
> -Steve
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9a13c6d0-e54b-49fd-941b-dfa75d122457@y28g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
I think I would make the whole thing modular, including the outer
drawer boxes. Maybe even just two outer boxes that each incorporate
all drawers for each side and a top with just a center drawer that
sits over the top. Much easier to move later.
I think you have a good point there. I was thinking the upper drawer carcass
would stiffen the assembly. But with full height drawer boxes it's easier to
hide (under the overhang) any non-co-planerness of the components caused by
a 150 year old floor.
-Steve
"Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> HD sells 4x8 sheets of 3/4" oak for $55.00.
One thing he might consider though, is that veneered plywood comes with the
surface veneer in different thicknesses. A better quality (and thus more
expensive) veneered plywood would have a thicker veneer on it making for a
more usable surface not as liable to wear through when sanding or later when
using. The better stuff is *not* to be found at Home Depot.
Jack Stein wrote:
> C & S wrote:
>> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be
>> done with contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not
>> work? It would seem to me that it would make the process go quickly
>> and not require 37 cauls.
>
> You could use contact cement if it were one large piece of veneer. If
> you are gluing up 1/32" thick strips into a large panel, you can't use
> contact cement.
How do you figure that? Join narrow strips, use veneer tape and glue edges
together; when wide enough, lay the whole thing with contact cement. Done
all the time.
> Seems like a heck of a lot of work to go through all
> that when you can just by a sheet of oak plywood.
I can't argue with that :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sep 21, 8:18=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> 3. Contact cement works just fine, no paper/fiber backing necessary. =A0O=
ne
> *does* have to be careful with mineral based finishes around the seams
> (apply first coat sparsely to seal).
There are many advantages to paper-backed veneers. The handling,
cutting and fitting alone makes it a more usable product.
The stuff I get is consistent, excellent quality, and best of all, no
seep-through.
Contact cement spray (I buy the 20# cannisters, they look like a
propane tank, comes with 15' hose and gun.) from 3M in the cans is
excellent stuff. No globs will telegraph, making sanding a snap.
Contact cement spray is fast. Very fast.
I have also used Wilsonart 3000 water-based adhesive, but that stuff
is so strong that you HAVE TO use a backer to the substrate or warpage
will be serious.
Having said that... it is always better to laminate both sides,
but...it is seldom done.
On Sep 20, 1:39=A0pm, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> C & S wrote:
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am consider=
ing
> > constructing a =A01" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> > sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed =
with
> > a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this appr=
oach
> > will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could potenti=
ally
> > glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-g=
rain"
> > issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
>
> > I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test=
run
> > of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
> > through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down=
to
> > about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
>
> > Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That =
is
> > not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasona=
lly
> > and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
>
> > My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done =
with
> > contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would s=
eem
> > to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 caul=
s.
>
> ...
> It can, but don't think it accomplishes much to the objective.
>
> The two piece of 1/4" ply plus another 1/16" veneer plus the interior
> structure won't be much weight reduction over a piece of 3/4" oak veneer
> ply to start with.
>
> I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
> as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
> intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
>
> Contact cement is not suitable for the purpose if you do go that route,
> btw...
>
> --
Contact cement would work fine if he bought the heavy kraftpaper-
backed veneer. We do that all the time with excellent results.
Those types of constructs we finish with water based finishes as the
solvents in other finishes can cause problems around perimeter edges
and possible seams.
I would start with a quality slab door and veneer it. And I did say
quality.
Joint the edges ( if you're afraid of kick-back use mine. *smirk*)
I think I would make the whole thing modular, including the outer
drawer boxes. Maybe even just two outer boxes that each incorporate
all drawers for each side and a top with just a center drawer that
sits over the top. Much easier to move later.
On Sep 20, 9:04=A0am, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I intend to build a desk for my home and I am considering making the top
> from a veneered torsion box. I would like to hear it now, if my plan is
> doomed for some reason. It would be =A0impractical to prototype the
> construction methodology, so hopefully I can get consensus of thumbs up o=
r
> down.
>
> A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
> intend to build it as 3 components: two =A0"drawer pedestals" and a top
> assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost right =
an
> left drawers.
>
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considerin=
g
> constructing a =A01" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed wi=
th
> a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this approa=
ch
> will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could potential=
ly
> glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-gra=
in"
> issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
>
> I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test r=
un
> of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
> through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down t=
o
> about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
>
> Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That is
> not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasonall=
y
> and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
>
> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done wi=
th
> contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would see=
m
> to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 cauls.
>
> So can this plan work?
>
> Regards
>
> -Steve
> I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
> as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
> intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
I agree, easier. However, I'll have to drop nearly a C-note for a sheet of
decent pywood and then it's a crap shoot as to how well the color and grain
will match the rest of the piece.
> Contact cement is not suitable for the purpose if you do go that route,
> btw...
I appreciate that input ... why do you find it unsuitable?
Thanks,
Steve
> --
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I intend to build a desk for my home and I am considering making the top
>from a veneered torsion box. I would like to hear it now, if my plan is
>doomed for some reason. It would be impractical to prototype the
>construction methodology, so hopefully I can get consensus of thumbs up or
>down.
>
> A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
> intend to build it as 3 components: two "drawer pedestals" and a top
> assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost right
> an left drawers.
Well even if weight was not an issue, a decent sized desk will not go
through a normal sized door way. I built mine about 23 years ago, 2 drawer
units, Center front panel and solid oak top.
>
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considering
> constructing a 1" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed
> with a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this
> approach will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could
> potentially glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without
> "cross-grain" issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
Sounds like a lot of trouble, mine is aolid oak and using "figure 8"
attachment clips and screws the top can move all it wants through the
seasons with no ill effects.
Robatoy wrote:
> On Sep 21, 8:18 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> 3. Contact cement works just fine, no paper/fiber backing necessary.
>> One *does* have to be careful with mineral based finishes around the
>> seams (apply first coat sparsely to seal).
>
>
> There are many advantages to paper-backed veneers. The handling,
> cutting and fitting alone makes it a more usable product.
> The stuff I get is consistent, excellent quality, and best of all, no
> seep-through.
I agree, it is good stuff; just not *necessary* to use paper back.
> Having said that... it is always better to laminate both sides,
> but...it is seldom done.
They'll learn when their nice veneered piece of wood decides it wants to be
half of a bow and arrow :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
C & S wrote:
> I intend to build a desk for my home and I am considering making the
> top from a veneered torsion box. I would like to hear it now, if my
> plan is doomed for some reason. It would be impractical to prototype
> the construction methodology, so hopefully I can get consensus of
> thumbs up or down.
>
> A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
> intend to build it as 3 components: two "drawer pedestals" and a top
> assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost
> right an left drawers.
>
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am
> considering constructing a 1" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal)
> luan plywood sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered
> and then trimmed with a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners.
> I believe that this approach will give me lighter and more
> dimensionally stable top. I could potentially glue and/or screw the
> top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-grain" issues,
> yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
> I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a
> test run of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and
> shoving it through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able
> to get it down to about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
>
> Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"?
> That is not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not
> change seasonally and consequently will distort like a bimetal
> thermostat.
> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be
> done with contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not
> work? It would seem to me that it would make the process go quickly
> and not require 37 cauls.
> So can this plan work?
>
> Regards
>
> -Steve
1. I personally wouldn't want a desk top made of 1/4" material...sounds
hollow, flexes, etc.
2. Time was when veneer was a standard 1/20. There was 1/16 too. Anything
1/8 or less should work fine.
3. Contact cement works just fine, no paper/fiber backing necessary. One
*does* have to be careful with mineral based finishes around the seams
(apply first coat sparsely to seal).
_____________
Here's another way to apply veneer with regular glue and no cauls...
3/4" ply
3-4" dense foam
protective paper like butcher paper
veneer
sub-strate
3/4 ply
Clamp around the edges of the top & bottom ply to compress foam. The foam
will compress less in the center than at the edges (depending on sandwich
width) but still plenty to apply sufficient pressure.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sep 20, 12:04=A0pm, "C & S" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I intend to build a desk for my home and I am considering making the top
> from a veneered torsion box. I would like to hear it now, if my plan is
> doomed for some reason. It would be =A0impractical to prototype the
> construction methodology, so hopefully I can get consensus of thumbs up o=
r
> down.
>
> A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
> intend to build it as 3 components: two =A0"drawer pedestals" and a top
> assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost right =
an
> left drawers.
>
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considerin=
g
> constructing a =A01" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed wi=
th
> a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this approa=
ch
> will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could potential=
ly
> glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-gra=
in"
> issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
>
> I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test r=
un
> of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
> through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down t=
o
> about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
>
> Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That is
> not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasonall=
y
> and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
>
> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done wi=
th
> contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would see=
m
> to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 cauls.
>
> So can this plan work?
>
> Regards
>
> -Steve
What will the dimensions of the top be?
C & S wrote:
> So can this plan work?
It sounds as if it could work - but if it were my desk, I think I'd
replace that 1/4" luan plywood with 1/2" baltic birch because I think
it'd sound better and hold up better over time - but then I treat my
desks as just another kind of workbench...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
C & S wrote:
...
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considering
> constructing a 1" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed with
> a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this approach
> will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top. I could potentially
> glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-grain"
> issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
>
> I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test run
> of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
> through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down to
> about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
>
> Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That is
> not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasonally
> and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
>
> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done with
> contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would seem
> to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 cauls.
...
It can, but don't think it accomplishes much to the objective.
The two piece of 1/4" ply plus another 1/16" veneer plus the interior
structure won't be much weight reduction over a piece of 3/4" oak veneer
ply to start with.
I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
Contact cement is not suitable for the purpose if you do go that route,
btw...
--
C & S wrote:
>> I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
>> as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
>> intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
>
> I agree, easier. However, I'll have to drop nearly a C-note for a sheet of
> decent pywood and then it's a crap shoot as to how well the color and grain
> will match the rest of the piece.
Well, that's a consideration that wasn't mentioned. You talked only of
trying to reduce weight which you're not gaining much in anyway was the
point...
>> Contact cement is not suitable for the purpose if you do go that route,
>> btw...
>
> I appreciate that input ... why do you find it unsuitable?
It isn't rigid nor intended for solid wood/wood. As robatoy says, it
will work w/ the backed veneer, but that's not what you were talking about.
C & S wrote:
> A solid oak desk would weigh far too much for me to handle alone, so I
> intend to build it as 3 components: two "drawer pedestals" and a top
> assembly which includes the center drawer as well as the uppermost right an
> left drawers.
You would build 2 boxes for the drawers and a top. This should not be
too heavy for anyone to handle unless it was a huge desk.
> Rather than construct the writing surface from solid oak, I am considering
> constructing a 1" thick torsion box from 1/4 (nominal) luan plywood
> sandwiching a grid of pine. The box would be veneered and then trimmed with
> a perimeter of solid oak with mitered corners. I believe that this approach
> will give me lighter and more dimensionally stable top.
Most would do either solid oak, or oak plywood. The difference between
the weight of Oak plywood and what you are planning would be nominal.
I could potentially
> glue and/or screw the top to the upper drawer assembly without "cross-grain"
> issues, yeilding an even more rigid assembly.
Again, Oak plywood eliminated those issues.
> I intend to make my own veneer in roughly 4" wide "slabs". I did a test run
> of hot-melt gluing a 1/8" thick wood to a carrier piece and shoving it
> through the planer. Nothing bad happened :-). I was able to get it down to
> about 1/32 before the veneer became unstable.
> Question 1: how thin does veneer have to be to "act like veneer"? That is
> not like a solid wood glued to a substrate that will not change seasonally
> and consequently will distort like a bimetal thermostat.
It's not the thickness so much as how you go about it. Plywood is
stable because it AWAYS has an odd number of plies, oriented in opposite
directions. You would build your top with the same type and thickness
veneer on the bottom as on the top, else it could/would
warp/split/crack. Again, much easier to just by a sheet of plywood for
the top.
> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be done with
> contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not work? It would seem
> to me that it would make the process go quickly and not require 37 cauls.
You could use contact cement if it were one large piece of veneer. If
you are gluing up 1/32" thick strips into a large panel, you can't use
contact cement. Seems like a heck of a lot of work to go through all
that when you can just by a sheet of oak plywood.
> So can this plan work?
I think it could work, and would be a hell of a learning experience...
The easiest, and most expensive is solid oak. Next is plywood with solid
oak edging, next would be buying wood veneer and gluing it to a
substrate. Most difficult would be milling your own veneer and making
your own oak plywood.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
C & S wrote:
>> I'd suggest just building the visual thickness by edging a piece of ply
>> as would be typical counter-top construction and using your trim as
>> intended will accomplish the goal far easier.
>
> I agree, easier. However, I'll have to drop nearly a C-note for a sheet of
> decent pywood and then it's a crap shoot as to how well the color and grain
> will match the rest of the piece.
HD sells 4x8 sheets of 3/4" oak for $55.00.
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Jack
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dadiOH wrote:
> Jack Stein wrote:
>> C & S wrote:
>
>>> My second area of concern is with glue. I wonder if this could be
>>> done with contact cement. Is there any reason why that would not
>>> work? It would seem to me that it would make the process go quickly
>>> and not require 37 cauls.
>> You could use contact cement if it were one large piece of veneer. If
>> you are gluing up 1/32" thick strips into a large panel, you can't use
>> contact cement.
> How do you figure that? Join narrow strips, use veneer tape and glue edges
> together; when wide enough, lay the whole thing with contact cement. Done
> all the time.
It may be, but generally urea resin glue is used for veneer glue up
because it allows adjustment and it doesn't creep. I'm no expert on
veneering, thats for sure, but my experience in wood work is veneering a
desk top with 1/32 resawn homemade veneer is not something to be
approached lightly. I can imagine edge gluing 5' lengths of 1/32" resawn
lumber and then getting them oriented correctly and stuck on a homemade
torsion box with contact cement. I've never done it mind you, but I
would think the odds of me getting it right are small, and if I did, the
odds of the seams staying tight even smaller. Also, cauls are not good,
you generally would want a vacuum press for something like this. All
good reasons to go out and by a sheet of plywood, or spend the cash and
get some nice solid wood. Just edge gluing thick solid wood, one of the
easiest things for a woodworker to do, seems to generate a hell of a lot
of discussion here. Veneering is almost another discipline apart from
general woodwork. At least he should start smaller, like a jewelry box
or something... Besides just trying to get biscuits into the edge of a
1/32" hunk of oak veneer would be a real bitch:-)
>> Seems like a heck of a lot of work to go through all
>> that when you can just by a sheet of oak plywood.
> I can't argue with that :)
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Jack
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Upscale wrote:
> "Jack Stein" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> HD sells 4x8 sheets of 3/4" oak for $55.00.
> One thing he might consider though, is that veneered plywood comes with the
> surface veneer in different thicknesses. A better quality (and thus more
> expensive) veneered plywood would have a thicker veneer on it making for a
> more usable surface not as liable to wear through when sanding or later when
> using. The better stuff is *not* to be found at Home Depot.
Good point. I think any veneer surface needs care when sanding,
particularly around the edges. Most veneers are 1/32" to 1/64" thick,
and when you buy just the veneer, around 1/42" is common. I don't know
what HD sells, but it looks ok to me but care would be needed when
sanding for sure. In use I would want a durable finish, probably not
some danish oil thing, but something that would take the wear and tear
of a desk top on its own. Polyurethane is what I'd use... Anyway, the
veneer would not be much of a concern to me, more of a concern would be
what is between the veneers... Personally, if I were to spend the time
building a quality desk, which for me is a lot of time, I would go for
the solid Oak top.
Actually, you could probably go with solid wood for about the same
price.... I was on vacation at Lake George NY, and to my surprise,
right next to where we stayed was Northern Hardwoods. I checked out
some red oak for a project I was contemplating, and they had really nice
stuff, s3s, for $3.40 a board foot. Thats cheaper than the HD plywood
would be. They had 5/4 stock as well, but I forget the price.
I might mention I was at HD last year and noted they had red oak planks.
One I looked at was 1x6x16'. It was #1 select, a perfect 16' board.
The price marked was pretty cheap. I thought, wow, good deal. I then
found out it was priced at the lineal foot, not the board foot, so it
was well over double what I ever paid for oak lumber. The quality of HD
oak lumber is top of the line at my store, but it is not cheap, neither
things one would expect from HD:-)
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Jack
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