I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough to
get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if you
start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave you'll do
even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes without
saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will make a very
nice taper!
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:...
> Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
> length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite side.
> If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle of the
> side rather than from the end.
>
> Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally
> starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a
> trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You can
> either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which can be
> run up against the fence.
>
>
> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> John
>>
>> In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
>> the middle of the length of the board?
>>
>> Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
>> non-glued face or the glued face?
>> Russ
>> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> message news:[email protected]...
>>> You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
>>> start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the
>>> board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a
>>> slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened
>>> then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from
>>> constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely tapered
>>> board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it against
>>> the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this technique
>>> on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand plane.
>>>
>>> Hopefully that description can be interpreted!
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first face
>>>>flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a
>>>>square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence
>>>>is square to the table and the tables are planar.
>>>> Russ
>>>> "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:45e901b2-7919-4d2f-b9a0-69add42dab8e@l33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
>>>> On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left what
>>>>> I
>>>>> thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
>>>>> i.e
>>>>> about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
>>>>> get a
>>>>> flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
>>>>> tyring
>>>>> to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...
>>>>
>>>> The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
>>>> flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
>>>> then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
>>>> which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
>>>> on the jointer complete the task.
>>>>
>>>> I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
>>>> width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
Thanks so very much John. Your reply makes a lot of sense and I will try it
on the next post. I need to make another one since oneof my posts got so
badly tapered it is now too thin.
Russ
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough to
>get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if you
>start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave you'll do
>even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes without
>saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will make a very
>nice taper!
>
>
> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:...
>> Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
>> length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite
>> side. If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the middle
>> of the side rather than from the end.
>>
>> Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I generally
>> starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are very uneven a
>> trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good way to go. You
>> can either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to the blank which
>> can be run up against the fence.
>>
>>
>> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> John
>>>
>>> In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
>>> the middle of the length of the board?
>>>
>>> Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
>>> non-glued face or the glued face?
>>> Russ
>>> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> message news:[email protected]...
>>>> You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to not
>>>> start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of the
>>>> board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result is a
>>>> slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends flattened
>>>> then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you from
>>>> constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely
>>>> tapered board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it
>>>> against the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this
>>>> technique on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7 hand
>>>> plane.
>>>>
>>>> Hopefully that description can be interpreted!
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first
>>>>>face flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get a
>>>>>square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the fence
>>>>>is square to the table and the tables are planar.
>>>>> Russ
>>>>> "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:45e901b2-7919-4d2f-b9a0-69add42dab8e@l33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
>>>>> On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left
>>>>>> what I
>>>>>> thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
>>>>>> i.e
>>>>>> about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
>>>>>> get a
>>>>>> flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
>>>>>> tyring
>>>>>> to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...
>>>>>
>>>>> The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
>>>>> flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
>>>>> then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
>>>>> which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
>>>>> on the jointer complete the task.
>>>>>
>>>>> I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
>>>>> width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
Good luck Russ. With a bit of studied experience you'll be able to read the
material soon enough! John
"Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks so very much John. Your reply makes a lot of sense and I will try
> it on the next post. I need to make another one since oneof my posts got
> so badly tapered it is now too thin.
>
> Russ
> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I should elaborate a bit that the point is to joint the ends just enough
>>to get them flat individually and then fill in between them. Sometimes if
>>you start jointing from both ends and then making it slightly concave
>>you'll do even better. Try to read the board! Of course, it probably goes
>>without saying that if you repeatedly start away from one end you will
>>make a very nice taper!
>>
>>
>> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> message news:...
>>> Yes on the first sentence... create a bit of concavity and then run full
>>> length. If the glue up is convex on one side start with the opposite
>>> side. If you happen to have two convex sides start jointing in the
>>> middle of the side rather than from the end.
>>>
>>> Regarding which side to start with, being a creature of habit I
>>> generally starts on the non glued up side. If the glued up sides are
>>> very uneven a trip through the band saw to even it up a bit is a good
>>> way to go. You can either snap a line or tack a straight edge board to
>>> the blank which can be run up against the fence.
>>>
>>>
>>> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>> In other words after a few passes start the next set of passes more in
>>>> the middle of the length of the board?
>>>>
>>>> Also since this is a glued up psot should I start by jointing the
>>>> non-glued face or the glued face?
>>>> Russ
>>>> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> message news:[email protected]...
>>>>> You might have better success if once you have made a few passes to
>>>>> not start at the leading end of the board but rather leave a bit of
>>>>> the board on the out feed at the start of a few passes. The net result
>>>>> is a slight concavity over the length. Once you have both ends
>>>>> flattened then run the entire length over the knives. This keeps you
>>>>> from constantly taking wood off one end and ending up with a severely
>>>>> tapered board. After the first face is jointed full length then use it
>>>>> against the fence with the same technique over the length. I use this
>>>>> technique on both my DJ-20, which has a long bed, and with my No 7
>>>>> hand plane.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hopefully that description can be interpreted!
>>>>>
>>>>> John
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>I should have mentioned that I was using a jointer to get the first
>>>>>>face flat and then putting that face against the jointer fence to get
>>>>>>a square edge. Also I checked the jointer before use to be sure the
>>>>>>fence is square to the table and the tables are planar.
>>>>>> Russ
>>>>>> "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:45e901b2-7919-4d2f-b9a0-69add42dab8e@l33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
>>>>>> On Jan 18, 4:40 pm, "Russ Stanton" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> I have glued up 8/4 stock to make 3 inch square bed posts. I left
>>>>>>> what I
>>>>>>> thought was a reasonable margin to square up the post after glue up
>>>>>>> i.e
>>>>>>> about 3 1/2 by almost 4. When trying to joint the glued up posts to
>>>>>>> get a
>>>>>>> flat face I ended up with an extremely tapered flat face. Then when
>>>>>>> tyring
>>>>>>> to square the next side to this face it was sofar off square...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The usual recommendation is to use a jointer to
>>>>>> flatten one face, then one adjacent (perpendicular) face,
>>>>>> then use a table saw to rip (rough cut) the last two faces,
>>>>>> which ensures opposite sides parallel. Finish cuts
>>>>>> on the jointer complete the task.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I presume you don't have a thicknesser (nor do I). For the
>>>>>> width you want, it'll take a 10" table saw.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>