Building a table, think torsion box-like.
Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
lock with long-wise pieces.
I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
Better ideas?
MJ
On Sat, 18 Sep 2010 04:51:21 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> >http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
>
>As cluttered as my shop is, I'd probably loose that small of a tool in
>a heartbeat. Looks neat, though. Wonder if getting sawdust in its
>insides, somewhere, might screw up its accuracy?
Nope. Nowhere to get sawdust into. It's an incredibly simple device.
Some of the responses have indicated
that I failed to give more detail.
Hopefully, this will help.
I want to build a grid of interlocking pieces
of plywood (3/4"). Each long piece in the grid
will be 4 feet long, the cross piece is also 4 feet.
The height of all the pieces is 4 inches. On top
of this, I'll put a sheet of 3/4 ply. I don't need to
make the top super flat as in a torsion box just
ok will do. The idea is that I'll be able knock
this down when I need to, which I expect
could happen over time. Want to end up
with a grid 4 feet by 4 feet.
I was thinking of a grid of three pieces in length and 5
cross pieces with one at each end.
The interlocking slots need to be all the same
depth, width and in the same spot on each corresponding
pieces (each cross piece needs to be identical, each
long piece the same).
I was thinking of a dado cut, but just not sure if
an 8" dado would cut that high, and to be sure of
consistently in the slots, I'd would have to gang
the pieces together. Seems to be a bit of
over engineering.
I was thinking of making a template out of MDF or
ply. A router could be used to ride the template and
cut out the slots.
Someone suggested to me use of a jigsaw, but
I really want super straight cuts and each to
be the same. Not sure if the jigsaw is the right
tool for this job.
I looked at the Kerfmaker - nice tool, but am
barely able to afford to buy MDF these days
then another tool. Besides, it looks like
it's better for a tablesaw, then a router.
Hope that helps.
MJ
Ok.
> Do you have a decent T/S?
Yes
> If so, do you also have a dado set?
Yes
> Just curious, why do you want the ply pieces to interlock?
It's my table, I want it this way. As I explained in my second
note, I might have to dismantle it.
> What is the ultimate purpose of this structure?
Support 1/2" plywood (4x4) with about a 50 lb load - tops.
> Will await your response.
I await yours.
MJ
We used to make waterbed frame pedestals in a factory here in Austin
(Climactic Bedding Enterprises circa 1974) using this method they were
about 11 " high but could easily be made higher.
We would simply dado on the flat using a radial arm saw, the extra
curved notch of the dado's end of cut was hidden by the mating piece
when the pedestal was assembled on site.
Since beds are installed on floors, there was no need for the ends of
the dado cuts to be accurate or squared off. It was an ingeniously
quick, strong and cheap solution for supporting a terrific amount of
weight over a floor
These pedestals were 1/2" particle board, 2 pieces running the length
of the bed, and 3 running the width. It sounds flimsy, but I had one
set up well over 10 years and it never failed. If a bed leaked though,
that's a different story.
"MJ" wrote:
> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>
> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
> lock with long-wise pieces.
>
> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
> then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>
> Better ideas?
----------------------
Incomplete details to adequately respond.
Lew
"MJ" wrote:
> I want to build a grid of interlocking pieces
> of plywood (3/4"). Each long piece in the grid
> will be 4 feet long, the cross piece is also 4 feet.
> The height of all the pieces is 4 inches. On top
> of this, I'll put a sheet of 3/4 ply. I don't need to
> make the top super flat as in a torsion box just
> ok will do. The idea is that I'll be able knock
> this down when I need to, which I expect
> could happen over time. Want to end up
> with a grid 4 feet by 4 feet.
---------------------------------------
Based on your description, this is a classic table saw job.
Do you have a decent T/S?
If so, do you also have a dado set?
Just curious, why do you want the ply pieces to interlock?
What is the ultimate purpose of this structure?
Will await your response.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Do you have a decent T/S?
>
> Yes
>> If so, do you also have a dado set?
>
> Yes
>> Just curious, why do you want the ply pieces to interlock?
>
> It's my table, I want it this way. As I explained in my second
> note, I might have to dismantle it.
>
>> What is the ultimate purpose of this structure?
>
> Support 1/2" plywood (4x4) with about a 50 lb load - tops.
-----------------------------------
Based on your inputs, here is how I would attack this project.
Start with a 48" x 97" x 12mm (4 ply) sheet of CDX plywood and cross
cut a 48" x 48-1/4" piece for the top. with a guide and a circular
saw.
Use a router and a straight edge to clean up cut edge for a 48" x 48"
top
Cross cut the remaining ply into 24" x 48+" pieces.
Rip 5 pieces, 4" x 48+" from each 24" x 48+" pieces.
Final cross cut 2 pieces, 4" x 48".
Final cross cut 8 pieces, 4" x 47".
Set aside the 48" and 2 of the 47" pieces for the outside box frame.
Temporally screw the remaining 6 pieces into groups of 3 pieces.
Set up your dado to cut 2" high x 12mm wide dado. (Make a new zero
clearance insert)
Set up a box joint jig using your miter gage to set the correct
spacing between dadoes.
Again set up a zero clearance insert on the box joint jig using some
scrap 1/4" material.
All the wooden parts are now complete.
When assembled, you will have a 4 x 4 box with 16, 1 x 1 boxes inside.
You indicate you may want to take box apart, so time for a trip to the
hardware store.
Get 2 pcs, 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1/16" x 96" aluminum angle and a throw
away table saw blade to cut the aluminum angle.
Also the following hardware:
100 pcs, 1/4"-20 x 1", Flat hd bolts
100 pcs, 1/4"-20 x 1", Hex hd bolts
100 pcs, 1/4"-20 x 1", Hex nuts
100 pcs, 1/4" Flat washers
Using aluminum cutting blade, cut angle into 4" pieces (32 minimum).
Next drill 9/32" holes thru flanges of the angles.
Each corner piece requires 2 holes in each flange.
All interior and cover angles require 2 holes in one flange, 1 hole in
the other flange.
That's a lot of bolts and nuts, but it insures a strong box that can
be assembled or disassembled as needed.
Depending on final use and the amount of work you have invested, you
may want to upgrade the plywood from CDX.
Have fun.
Lew
On Sep 17, 10:27=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 9/17/2010 8:18 PM, MJ wrote:
>
> > Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>
> > Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
> > for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
> > interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
> > lock with long-wise pieces.
>
> > I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
> > thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
> > then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>
> > Better ideas?
>
> http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Those drawer joints looked a bit *too* tight; if you have to hammer
them
together, you risk splitting out the dadoes (and you WILL split them
out once
add in the glue). Best to slack off the fit by the thickness of a
rolling paper.
For $65, probably a nice tool if you're doing production work. Cheap
for
Bridge City, actually.
Morgans wrote:
> "Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote>
>
>> I think a ten-inch TS will cut in excess of 3" at ninety degrees.
>> Less with a DADO blade.
>
> Are you sure? Seems I recall having to go to a 12" TS to cut 2.75
> inches.
10" blade = 3 1/2 cut at 90 degrees is usual
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
MJ wrote:
> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>
> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
> lock with long-wise pieces.
>
> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
> then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>
> Better ideas?
Depends on how long the slots are to be. If not too long, a table saw would
be worlds faster, you could stack the pieces and cut slots in each at one
time...position stack, cut, position stack, cut. Et cetera.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sat, 18 Sep 2010 17:11:33 -0400, "Morgans" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote>
>
>> I think a ten-inch TS will cut in excess of 3" at ninety degrees. Less
>> with a DADO blade.
>
>Are you sure? Seems I recall having to go to a 12" TS to cut 2.75 inches.
Most, even the benchtop saws cut 3-1/8" @90degrees. Surprised me, I expected
the benchtops to be less than cabinet saws (Ryobi and Delta benchtops cut 3"
@90).
On Sep 17, 6:18=A0pm, MJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>
> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
> lock with long-wise pieces.
>
> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
The router will cut relatively slowly, make lots of noise, and make
fine dust.
A biscuit joiner will cut quicker, make lots of noise, make coarse
dust.
A mortising chisel (square chisel with central auger-like bit) will
cut more quietly, make shavings instead of dust, and is intermediate
in speed.
An auger or Forstner bit and chisel and mallet will do it slowest,
make big
shavings (chips), and is the most fun. For learning about wood, and
about
sharpening of chisels, everyone should do this at least once. 20 or
30,
though, starts to seem excessive.
> Depends on how long the slots are to be. =A0If not too long, a table saw =
would
> be worlds faster, you could stack the pieces and cut slots in each at one
> time...position stack, cut, position stack, cut. =A0Et cetera.
>
When I built my last torsion box affair (served as a six+ foot shelf/
table top) the internal cross members were relatively thin (quarter-
inch or so) and the slots were half their width (less than half the
thickness of the finished torsion box).
I think a ten-inch TS will cut in excess of 3" at ninety degrees. Less
with a DADO blade.
But, as someone pointed out already, the OP provided insufficient
detail from which to determine a best practices approach the project
at hand.
On 9/17/2010 8:18 PM, MJ wrote:
> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>
> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
> lock with long-wise pieces.
>
> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
> then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>
> Better ideas?
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 9/17/2010 8:18 PM, MJ wrote:
>> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>>
>> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
>> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
>> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
>> lock with long-wise pieces.
>>
>> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
>> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
>> then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>>
>> Better ideas?
>
> http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
Slicker'n snot on a boardwalk!
In article <[email protected]>,
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
>
>--
That looks like a nifty tool. To set a groove kerf without a special too,
take any piece of scrap with at least one straight edge. Set your rip fence
somewhat narrower than the scrap and rip it to any arbitray width. Now take
a piece of the stock that you want to match the groove width too, and place
it between the fence and the 1st scrap piece. It needs to be long enough
to act as fence itselt. Rip the scrap piece again, this time so it is
riding against the sample piece being held against the fence. The cutoff
produced will be exactly (within the limits of your machine's accurace)
the width of the stock less your saw's kerf.
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
"MJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:20e92708-0303-4c8d-afaf-d4e457e92053@w15g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
> Some of the responses have indicated
> that I failed to give more detail.
>
> Hopefully, this will help.
>
> I want to build a grid of interlocking pieces
> of plywood (3/4"). Each long piece in the grid
> will be 4 feet long, the cross piece is also 4 feet.
> The height of all the pieces is 4 inches. On top
> of this, I'll put a sheet of 3/4 ply. I don't need to
> make the top super flat as in a torsion box just
> ok will do. The idea is that I'll be able knock
> this down when I need to, which I expect
> could happen over time. Want to end up
> with a grid 4 feet by 4 feet.
>
> I was thinking of a grid of three pieces in length and 5
> cross pieces with one at each end.
>
> The interlocking slots need to be all the same
> depth, width and in the same spot on each corresponding
> pieces (each cross piece needs to be identical, each
> long piece the same).
>
> I was thinking of a dado cut, but just not sure if
> an 8" dado would cut that high, and to be sure of
> consistently in the slots, I'd would have to gang
> the pieces together. Seems to be a bit of
> over engineering.
You only have to cut 2" deep. Stack and clamp all the length pieces & cut
slots. Do same for width. Precision relationship between slots is not
needed, as long as the pieces are stacked and clamped.
Seems like you would also want a bottom on the box to keep everything
together if you move it. Sounds like you would just arrange the crate on the
bottom, screw on the top, flip, and screw on the bottom.
>
> I was thinking of making a template out of MDF or
> ply. A router could be used to ride the template and
> cut out the slots.
Are you thinking about running a router bit 2" deep into a slot? A bit
capable of that might cost as much as the BCT gizmo - maybe more. Cutting on
the face of the strips leaves you with the rounded end issue.
I'd use the dado. Simpler.
>
> Someone suggested to me use of a jigsaw, but
> I really want super straight cuts and each to
> be the same. Not sure if the jigsaw is the right
> tool for this job.
It's not.
>
> I looked at the Kerfmaker - nice tool, but am
> barely able to afford to buy MDF these days
> then another tool. Besides, it looks like
> it's better for a tablesaw, then a router.
But you do have a table saw, right? For the dado set?
BCT stuff is very well made, but obscenely expensive.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> MJ
--
National Socialism showed what can happen when very ordinary people get
control of a state and the merely opportunistic are regarded as
intellectuals.
Anthony Burgess
"Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote>
> I think a ten-inch TS will cut in excess of 3" at ninety degrees. Less
> with a DADO blade.
Are you sure? Seems I recall having to go to a 12" TS to cut 2.75 inches.
--
Jim in NC
dadiOH wrote:
> Morgans wrote:
>> "Hoosierpopi" <[email protected]> wrote>
>>
>>> I think a ten-inch TS will cut in excess of 3" at ninety degrees.
>>> Less with a DADO blade.
>>
>> Are you sure? Seems I recall having to go to a 12" TS to cut 2.75
>> inches.
>
> 10" blade = 3 1/2 cut at 90 degrees is usual
(whoops) = 3 1/8
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
At first my reaction was not another gizmo... but this one looks nice.
Very simple to use.
Thanks. for the info.
On 9/17/2010 10:27 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 9/17/2010 8:18 PM, MJ wrote:
>> Building a table, think torsion box-like.
>>
>> Will consist of several pieces of ply (it's not
>> for furniture, sort of a hobby table), that
>> interlock through slots. Cross pieces will
>> lock with long-wise pieces.
>>
>> I got to knock out about 20 or 30 of these slots, or
>> thereabouts. I'm thinking building a router template
>> then using a spiral bit with a collar around the template.
>>
>> Better ideas?
>
> http://www.bridgecitytools.com/Products/KM-1+Kerfmaker
>
On Sun, 19 Sep 2010 06:08:40 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>We used to make waterbed frame pedestals in a factory here in Austin
>(Climactic Bedding Enterprises circa 1974) using this method they were
>about 11 " high but could easily be made higher.
>We would simply dado on the flat using a radial arm saw, the extra
>curved notch of the dado's end of cut was hidden by the mating piece
>when the pedestal was assembled on site.
>Since beds are installed on floors, there was no need for the ends of
>the dado cuts to be accurate or squared off. It was an ingeniously
>quick, strong and cheap solution for supporting a terrific amount of
>weight over a floor
>These pedestals were 1/2" particle board, 2 pieces running the length
>of the bed, and 3 running the width. It sounds flimsy, but I had one
>set up well over 10 years and it never failed. If a bed leaked though,
>that's a different story.
Yeah, we had a king-sized water bed that used four 'X's made out of particle
board, one in each quadrant. Each side of the 'X' slot cut half way through,
so the pieces interlocked. It didn't look very sturdy but I never had a
problem with the base. The bladders, OTOH...