I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
available toy box.
http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
gluing?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
a big risk.
Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
the butt corners.
Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
then trying to glue them on at the right length.
On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
> available toy box.
>
> http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>
> It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
> solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
> planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
> as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
> oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
> gluing?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
On Nov 16, 3:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
> I am making a toy box for my grandson.
Hello Dick...
I clicked the url, so I am curious which box you choose to build?
It is my experience that those treasures that grandpa built live
through generations, so I know that price isn't the object, but that
solid wood box for $115 looks hard to beat against the price of good
plywood and the labor to edgeband...which begs the question, why not
go with solid wood?
I have had success with making solid wood edgebands at the same
specification as the roundover bit that I intend to use...such as
3/8s, if I want a full roundover on a three/quarter ply...trim and
shape at the same time...you run the router on the surface, rather
than the edge.
You can cut your bands wide, then overhang the router bit into the cut
by placing plystock behind the band...to run the router on...and
dropping the bit to run flush(+) with your workpiece...it's
easy...block sand to finish.
"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksnyder@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:yrGdnSaCx8wTk6PanZ2dnUVZ_ruqnZ2d@comcast.com...
>I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
>available toy box.
>
> http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>
> It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
> solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
> planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
> plywood after gluing?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
Thin strips sand very quickly.
"Robatoy" <Counterfitter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9cce5615-5cbe-43a5-8f38-f4a28af6a122@d50g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 16, 4:56 pm, B A R R Y <beech23pi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
>>
>> <removespamlcb11...@swbell.net> wrote:
>>
>> >"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> >Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>> >> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
>> >> would
>> >> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match
>> >> the
>> >> plywood after gluing?
>>
>> >Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the
>> >plywood.
>> >Thin strips sand very quickly.
>>
>> What he said, if the strips are really thin.
>>
>> If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
>> a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
>> shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
>> a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
>> to steady the router.
>>
>
> You must observe grain when doing that. The bit can catch and lift/
> tear the banding.
> Climb-cutting will make that a little better.
> If you have a lot of that kind of work to do, put a board between the
> fence and a dado blade. Elevate the dado to be flush with the top of
> that board, then run your edge over the dado. I have done thousands of
> feet of edging that way with fast reliable results. Then I used this
> thing:
> http://www.lamello.com/en/products/special-power-tools/flush-milling-machine.html
>
> r
I just figured out what the picture was that you sent in another posting. It
was this technique with the dado blade. Very cool idea. Thanks. I don't have
that much to do but I have filed this technique away for future use.
On Nov 16, 4:56 pm, B A R R Y <beech23pi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
>
> <removespamlcb11...@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> >"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
> >> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
> >> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
> >> plywood after gluing?
>
> >Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
> >Thin strips sand very quickly.
>
> What he said, if the strips are really thin.
>
> If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
> a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
> shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
> a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
> to steady the router.
>
You must observe grain when doing that. The bit can catch and lift/
tear the banding.
Climb-cutting will make that a little better.
If you have a lot of that kind of work to do, put a board between the
fence and a dado blade. Elevate the dado to be flush with the top of
that board, then run your edge over the dado. I have done thousands of
feet of edging that way with fast reliable results. Then I used this
thing:
http://www.lamello.com/en/products/special-power-tools/flush-milling-machine.html
r
"DAClark" <manworkingwood@mchsi.com> wrote in message
news:15c67f10-64b0-4716-8272-93bb1102d745@b36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 16, 3:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" wrote:
>> I am making a toy box for my grandson.
> Hello Dick...
> I clicked the url, so I am curious which box you choose to build?
> It is my experience that those treasures that grandpa built live
> through generations, so I know that price isn't the object, but that
> solid wood box for $115 looks hard to beat against the price of good
> plywood and the labor to edgeband...which begs the question, why not
> go with solid wood?
> I have had success with making solid wood edgebands at the same
> specification as the roundover bit that I intend to use...such as
> 3/8s, if I want a full roundover on a three/quarter ply...trim and
> shape at the same time...you run the router on the surface, rather
> than the edge.
> You can cut your bands wide, then overhang the router bit into the cut
> by placing plystock behind the band...to run the router on...and
> dropping the bit to run flush(+) with your workpiece...it's
> easy...block sand to finish.
>
>
There is little doubt that I could buy something cheaper than it will cost
me to make it but that is not why we do this stuff! Also, the furniture in
the child's room is all birch finished with a redwood stain. This wll match.
Good point on making edgebands at the same specification as the roundover
bit - thanks
Got it.
Thanks.
"SonomaProducts.com" <bwx200@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e2cd292f-603d-4cf0-84d4-bbf07c7764c3@s19g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> Yeah, I do that sometimes.
>
> I'm just saying do 2 parallel sides with hard bands running long off
> each end. Then trim them and the ply at the same time to finish size.
> Now you have two sides with perefectly flush cut edges. So the ply
> neede to be oversized in the one diomension when you started so you
> can trim it down to size and trim the bands at the same time.
>
> Then band the other two sides, run long and trim flush just the bands.
>
> I love to type.
>
>
> On Nov 16, 5:22 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> "SonomaProducts.com" <bwx...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:0dbb94f0-210a-4894-a27e-c901cdd24f37@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
>> > tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
>> > 1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
>> > sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
>> > a big risk.
>>
>> > Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
>> > one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
>> > the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
>> > TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
>> > but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
>> > running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
>> > the butt corners.
>>
>> > Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
>> > run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
>> > then trying to glue them on at the right length.
>>
>> > On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
>> > wrote:
>> >> I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
>> >> available toy box.
>>
>> >>http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>>
>> >> It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding
>> >> with
>> >> solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
>> >> power
>> >> planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>> >> thickness
>> >> as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you
>> >> leave
>> >> it
>> >> oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood
>> >> after
>> >> gluing?
>>
>> >> TIA.
>>
>> >> Dick Snyder
>>
>> That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to
>> see
>> what you are talking about.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text
"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:s84sj39ntjimncolqhssj2h04g6463nhl5@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
> <removespamlcb11211@swbell.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksnyder@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>>> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
>>> would
>>> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
>>> plywood after gluing?
>>>
>>
>>Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
>>Thin strips sand very quickly.
>>
>
> What he said, if the strips are really thin.
>
> If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
> a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
> shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
> a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
> to steady the router.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> ** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> ---------------------------------------------
The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the rounding
I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush trim
bit. That is what I will do.
"SonomaProducts.com" <bwx200@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0dbb94f0-210a-4894-a27e-c901cdd24f37@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
> tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
> 1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
> sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
> a big risk.
>
> Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
> one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
> the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
> TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
> but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
> running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
> the butt corners.
>
> Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
> run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
> then trying to glue them on at the right length.
>
>
> On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
>> available toy box.
>>
>> http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>>
>> It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
>> solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
>> power
>> planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>> thickness
>> as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave
>> it
>> oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
>> gluing?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> Dick Snyder
>
That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to see
what you are talking about.
On Nov 16, 5:40 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> "B A R R Y" <beech23pi...@yahoo.com> wrote in messagenews:s84sj39ntjimncolqhssj2h04g6463nhl5@4ax.com...
>
>
>
> > On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
> > <removespamlcb11...@swbell.net> wrote:
>
> >>"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >>Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
> >>> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
> >>> would
> >>> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
> >>> plywood after gluing?
>
> >>Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
> >>Thin strips sand very quickly.
>
> > What he said, if the strips are really thin.
>
> > If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
> > a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
> > shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
> > a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
> > to steady the router.
>
> > ---------------------------------------------
> > **http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
> > ---------------------------------------------
>
> The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the rounding
> I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush trim
> bit. That is what I will do.
I prefer this method: (Drew this up for you)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Edgetrim.jpg
Yeah, I do that sometimes.
I'm just saying do 2 parallel sides with hard bands running long off
each end. Then trim them and the ply at the same time to finish size.
Now you have two sides with perefectly flush cut edges. So the ply
neede to be oversized in the one diomension when you started so you
can trim it down to size and trim the bands at the same time.
Then band the other two sides, run long and trim flush just the bands.
I love to type.
On Nov 16, 5:22 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <bwx...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:0dbb94f0-210a-4894-a27e-c901cdd24f37@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > This is the one place where I use a scraper. I am not much of a hand
> > tool guy but I make the bands about 1/16th over sized, glue them with
> > 1/32 over and under and then scrape the down to the ply and finla hand
> > sane. The veneers now days are so thin on ply that sanding through is
> > a big risk.
>
> > Also, on square ply that will be banded 4 sides, I run the ply long in
> > one direction. Then I band across the properly cut direction but run
> > the bands about 1/4 in long.. After it dries I cut it to size on the
> > TS. You have to play some games on the fence side for the first cut
> > but that's easy to figure out. Then I band the other side, again
> > running them long, then flush cut with a japan saw and plane\sand out
> > the butt corners.
>
> > Think about where on your project you can run them long, trim and then
> > run over nad cut to a butt in the other. Much easier and more precise
> > then trying to glue them on at the right length.
>
> > On Nov 16, 1:41 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
> > wrote:
> >> I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
> >> available toy box.
>
> >>http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>
> >> It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
> >> solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a
> >> power
> >> planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
> >> thickness
> >> as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave
> >> it
> >> oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
> >> gluing?
>
> >> TIA.
>
> >> Dick Snyder
>
> That middle paragraph of yours is a mouthful. I need to draw a sketch to see
> what you are talking about.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text
"Robatoy" <Counterfitter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d1f5b166-d6e4-40ac-bfde-aaaed133ac7e@w34g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 16, 5:40 pm, "Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> "B A R R Y" <beech23pi...@yahoo.com> wrote in
>> messagenews:s84sj39ntjimncolqhssj2h04g6463nhl5@4ax.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
>> > <removespamlcb11...@swbell.net> wrote:
>>
>> >>"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksny...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> >>Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>> >>> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or
>> >>> would
>> >>> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match
>> >>> the
>> >>> plywood after gluing?
>>
>> >>Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the
>> >>plywood.
>> >>Thin strips sand very quickly.
>>
>> > What he said, if the strips are really thin.
>>
>> > If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
>> > a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
>> > shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
>> > a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
>> > to steady the router.
>>
>> > ---------------------------------------------
>> > **http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
>> > ---------------------------------------------
>>
>> The strips are going to be closer to 1/2" thick in order to get the
>> rounding
>> I want. That is your option #2 Barry. Thanks for the idea on the flush
>> trim
>> bit. That is what I will do.
>
> I prefer this method: (Drew this up for you)
> http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Robatoy/Edgetrim.jpg
Cool drawing! (BTW, you left your sunglasses on the table). Am I seeing a
table saw? I assume this is a technique for ripping thin strips??? If it is
a technique using the flush trim bit, I'm having some trouble figuring out
what I am looking at.
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 16:41:35 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<REMOVE-dicksnyder@comcast.net> wrote:
>I am making a toy box for my grandson. I am copying this commercially
>available toy box.
>
>http://www.itoyboxes.com/toy-boxes/toy-boxes/limitededitiontoychest.cfm
>
>It will be made from plywood but I have to do a lot of edge banding with
>solid wood to be able to round the edges as much as I want. I have a power
>planer. Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same thickness
>as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would you leave it
>oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the plywood after
>gluing?
>
>TIA.
>
>Dick Snyder
>
Make it 1/64" oversize. Be extra careful you don't blow through the
top ply layer when sanding.
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 15:49:48 -0600, "Leon"
<removespamlcb11211@swbell.net> wrote:
>
>"Dick Snyder" <REMOVE-dicksnyder@comcast.net> wrote in message
>Would you recommend planing all the solid wood to the same
>> thickness as the plywood (which means my gluing must be spot on) or would
>> you leave it oversize and use a block plane to make the edges match the
>> plywood after gluing?
>>
>
>Actually I cut it slightly wider and sand the edge flush with the plywood.
>Thin strips sand very quickly.
>
What he said, if the strips are really thin.
If the strips are tad thicker than normal to accommodate the shaping,
a router with a flush trim bit (bearing on the end away from the
shank) will also clean it up nicely. This is easier on a table with
a tall fence, or if you clamp a block to the side you're not cutting
to steady the router.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------