I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity using
a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using these bits).
I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and installing the 1/4"
plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20 inches thick where as the
slot for the panel is 1/4 of an inch making for a very SLOPPY fit.
I'm thinking of gluing a strip of wood to the back side of the plywood panel
along the perimeter and then running it through my planer to mill it down to
1/4 of an inch...essentially increasing the thickness of the panel along its
perimeter. I'm not sure if this is the best solution.
What do you guys do to fill this gap to create a panel that fits snugly into
the slot?
Mark
Mark,
Places like Rocklers sell materials to fill this gap. The string idea
would work, too. Your idea of putting a strip of wood will work. Except
if you plan on using a machine planer be very careful. The opposite
grain you will be presenting the blades on a surface that may or may
not be glued very well under your glue job may just send splintered
pieces everywhere and ruin your panel. I suggest adjusting the
thickness of the attachment wood before you apply it to the panel.
Roy
u probly know, I just got my caliper- some things at the store, rewgardless
of 1/4, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" whatever is bound to be exact or pretty close to thre
real decimal equiv. like mdf, and Baltic Birch plywood. Don't take my word
for it. Sometimes space is good, others bad. Dunno
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There are 'plywood' bits available that are that 1/32 or so under the
true dimention of the plywood.
I had a special 8 inch blade made for my table say just for making a
dado for plywood. It is just under 1/4 inch, and lasts a lot longer
than the router bits, but you can't do stopped cuts, you have to cut
from one end of the board all the way through to the other end. It cost
less than $80.
The dial a dado blade from Freud can do the same thing.
robo hippy
Amana also has an ultra-cool slot cutting bit. It's like a
dial-a-dado, but it's a router bit. You loosen a nut and turn a knob
allowing you to adjust the cutter thickness. It's not a rail & style
set but you could probably recreate the same profile with normal bits.
It's about $100 iirc, but I think it's worth it to get an exact fit and
be able to use it for everything from 1/8 to 1/2.
brian
Preston,
I like that idea about the 1/2 plywood rabbeted to the 1/4 inch
dimension...that's a great idea. Damn, wish I would have thought of that.
Thanx a bunch. I appreciate the other good ideas you've sent....I guess I
was restricting myself to the router bits I had and the 1/4 inch sheet of
hardwood plywood I was planning on using....should have done the 1/2 inch
ply. And I'm going to get some of those space balls this weekend for sure.
Mark
"Preston Andreas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mark,
>
> The space balls will keep the thinner panel from rattling.
>
> All my shaper cutters also stick a 1/4" groove. If I have to use a 1/4"
> (5mm), I use spaceballs to limit movement and rattling. Also, I turn the
> door, outside face down, press down on the panel and tack a 5/8" brad
> through the lip of the stile/rail and through the edge of the panel. Make
> sure you angle the nailer so it doesn't exit the profile on the other
> side.
> Perhaps the easiest method is to glue the ply panel to the stiles/rails.
> Lay
> the door face down and put a little weight on the panel to keep it tight
> to
> the outside edge of the stile/rail. You can do this with plywood without
> having to worry about wood movement. You can't do this with solid wood. It
> has to have room to move. If the doors are paint grade, simply caulk the
> gap
> on the back side, again pressing on the panel to keep it tight to the
> front.
> And for a proper paint job, you also want to caulk the front edge of the
> panel to the frame. Use an acrylic latex or similar that stays pliable.
>
> I eliminated the problem by rabbeting 1/2 ply (3/8" was too hard to get
> and
> in some cases more expensive than 1/2") to fit. This method also gives a
> heavier, better looking door and the reveal in the back looks good.
>
> Oh, one other method is to use a shaker style cutter set. Make a small
> bead
> moulding, say 3/16" x 1/4", on the router table and nail it to the inside
> edge of the door where it meets the panel. For that, you would need a pin
> nailer (23 ga).
>
> Preston
> "Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I thought that "space balls" were to take up the vertical and horizontal
>> slack/space on a panel and allow movement. I don't think they are to be
>> used to fill the space front-to-back on a panel, but I suppose they could
> be
>> used that way. Anyone ever do this?
>>
>> Correct slots, as you mentioned below, would have been good, however I
>> wanted to use the new "frame & panel" router bit set I just got....and
>> you
>> can't adjust the slot on those things....at least I don't believe you can
>> without a whole lot of messing around.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > "Space Balls".... look here:
>> >
>> >
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&SearchHandle=DADBDBDBDADADDDGDADCGGDGGBDJDDGCCNGGDFDGGBCNDEGDDGDCCNGBGGGEGGCNGEDHGCDCDHDCGGDBGCGCDDGCDADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADBDB
>> >
>> > or the correct size slots...
>> >
>> >
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10825&SearchHandle=DADBDBDDDADADDDGDBGGGCDIDHGFDHGGCNDJDGGCGCCNDEGCDIGDCNDJGDDJGFCNDEGCDJGFGFDFGFDIDGDCDGDJDADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADBDB&filter=slot%20cutters
>> >
>> > Mark wrote:
>> >
>> >> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity
>> >> using a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using
>> >> these bits). I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and
>> >> installing the 1/4" plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20
>> >> inches thick where as the slot for the panel is 1/4 of
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Mark wrote:
> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a
> vanity using a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first
> time using these bits). I've gotten to the point of assembling the
> doors and installing the 1/4" plywood panel, but the plywood panel is
> about 0.20 inches thick where as the slot for the panel is 1/4 of an
> inch making for a very SLOPPY fit.
>
> I'm thinking of gluing a strip of wood to the back side of the
> plywood panel along the perimeter and then running it through my
> planer to mill it down to 1/4 of an inch...essentially increasing the
> thickness of the panel along its perimeter. I'm not sure if this is
> the best solution.
Good as any.
_____________
> What do you guys do to fill this gap to create a panel that fits
> snugly into the slot?
Cut the groove the right size :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Mark,
The space balls will keep the thinner panel from rattling.
All my shaper cutters also stick a 1/4" groove. If I have to use a 1/4"
(5mm), I use spaceballs to limit movement and rattling. Also, I turn the
door, outside face down, press down on the panel and tack a 5/8" brad
through the lip of the stile/rail and through the edge of the panel. Make
sure you angle the nailer so it doesn't exit the profile on the other side.
Perhaps the easiest method is to glue the ply panel to the stiles/rails. Lay
the door face down and put a little weight on the panel to keep it tight to
the outside edge of the stile/rail. You can do this with plywood without
having to worry about wood movement. You can't do this with solid wood. It
has to have room to move. If the doors are paint grade, simply caulk the gap
on the back side, again pressing on the panel to keep it tight to the front.
And for a proper paint job, you also want to caulk the front edge of the
panel to the frame. Use an acrylic latex or similar that stays pliable.
I eliminated the problem by rabbeting 1/2 ply (3/8" was too hard to get and
in some cases more expensive than 1/2") to fit. This method also gives a
heavier, better looking door and the reveal in the back looks good.
Oh, one other method is to use a shaker style cutter set. Make a small bead
moulding, say 3/16" x 1/4", on the router table and nail it to the inside
edge of the door where it meets the panel. For that, you would need a pin
nailer (23 ga).
Preston
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I thought that "space balls" were to take up the vertical and horizontal
> slack/space on a panel and allow movement. I don't think they are to be
> used to fill the space front-to-back on a panel, but I suppose they could
be
> used that way. Anyone ever do this?
>
> Correct slots, as you mentioned below, would have been good, however I
> wanted to use the new "frame & panel" router bit set I just got....and you
> can't adjust the slot on those things....at least I don't believe you can
> without a whole lot of messing around.
>
> Mark
>
>
> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Space Balls".... look here:
> >
> >
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&SearchHandle=DADBDBDBDADADDDGDADCGGDGGBDJDDGCCNGGDFDGGBCNDEGDDGDCCNGBGGGEGGCNGEDHGCDCDHDCGGDBGCGCDDGCDADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADBDB
> >
> > or the correct size slots...
> >
> >
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10825&SearchHandle=DADBDBDDDADADDDGDBGGGCDIDHGFDHGGCNDJDGGCGCCNDEGCDIGDCNDJGDDJGFCNDEGCDJGFGFDFGFDIDGDCDGDJDADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADBDB&filter=slot%20cutters
> >
> > Mark wrote:
> >
> >> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity
> >> using a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using
> >> these bits). I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and
> >> installing the 1/4" plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20
> >> inches thick where as the slot for the panel is 1/4 of
> >
>
>
"Mark" wrote in message
> What do you guys do to fill this gap to create a panel that fits snugly
into
> the slot?
One old timey method was to stuff string in the groove, all around the
perimeter, on the back side of the panel. Your idea is another method that
will also work with plywood doors.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
For next time, ask around about types of plywood available. My lumber
supplier (does hardwoods and specialty plywoods) specifically recommended an
MDF core maple plywood. It was about 50% more expensive but he claimed that
the thickness was a true 1/4 and it was a much more uniform product. I think
the veneers were a higher grade as well.
Normally I would avoid MDF anything, but for door panels I think it was the
right product for the job.
-Steve
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity
using
> a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using these
bits).
> I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and installing the 1/4"
> plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20 inches thick where as
the
> slot for the panel is 1/4 of an inch making for a very SLOPPY fit.
>
> I'm thinking of gluing a strip of wood to the back side of the plywood
panel
> along the perimeter and then running it through my planer to mill it down
to
> 1/4 of an inch...essentially increasing the thickness of the panel along
its
> perimeter. I'm not sure if this is the best solution.
>
> What do you guys do to fill this gap to create a panel that fits snugly
into
> the slot?
>
>
> Mark
>
>
"Space Balls".... look here:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&SearchHandle=DADBDBDBDADADDDGDADCGGDGGBDJDDGCCNGGDFDGGBCNDEGDDGDCCNGBGGGEGGCNGEDHGCDCDHDCGGDBGCGCDDGCDADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADBDB
or the correct size slots...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10825&SearchHandle=DADBDBDDDADADDDGDBGGGCDIDHGFDHGGCNDJDGGCGCCNDEGCDIGDCNDJGDDJGFCNDEGCDJGFGFDFGFDIDGDCDGDJDADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADBDB&filter=slot%20cutters
Mark wrote:
> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity using
> a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using these bits).
> I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and installing the 1/4"
> plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20 inches thick where as the
> slot for the panel is 1/4 of
I thought that "space balls" were to take up the vertical and horizontal
slack/space on a panel and allow movement. I don't think they are to be
used to fill the space front-to-back on a panel, but I suppose they could be
used that way. Anyone ever do this?
Correct slots, as you mentioned below, would have been good, however I
wanted to use the new "frame & panel" router bit set I just got....and you
can't adjust the slot on those things....at least I don't believe you can
without a whole lot of messing around.
Mark
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Space Balls".... look here:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2020&SearchHandle=DADBDBDBDADADDDGDADCGGDGGBDJDDGCCNGGDFDGGBCNDEGDDGDCCNGBGGGEGGCNGEDHGCDCDHDCGGDBGCGCDDGCDADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDBHDHAGBGDGFCAGCGBGMGMHDDADADADBDB
>
> or the correct size slots...
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10825&SearchHandle=DADBDBDDDADADDDGDBGGGCDIDHGFDHGGCNDJDGGCGCCNDEGCDIGDCNDJGDDJGFCNDEGCDJGFGFDFGFDIDGDCDGDJDADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDCHDGMGPHECAGDHFHEHEGFHCHDDADADADBDB&filter=slot%20cutters
>
> Mark wrote:
>
>> I've nearly completed my first set of frame & panel doors for a vanity
>> using a set of matching frame-and-panel router bits (first time using
>> these bits). I've gotten to the point of assembling the doors and
>> installing the 1/4" plywood panel, but the plywood panel is about 0.20
>> inches thick where as the slot for the panel is 1/4 of
>