Rick Samuel wrote:
> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
> with is Titebond. Need more time.
I've used Gorilla Glue with such situations. Working time is at least
30 minutes. If you use JUST A LITTLE, and spritz the surfaces with
water, I have had little trouble with ooze issue.
I also clamp or tack/nail joints, or they will open up, for me at
least.
> Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Try a scrap piece first to get the hang of it. I have had the best
results when I can do glue/nail joints.
Again, be VERY sparing with the glue. I put on a fine bead, or even a
few drops, then use a knife blade, etc., to spread it out, and NOT to
the edge of the work. I am not depending on the glue to do any sort of
filling. If I have that situation, then I go to an epoxy.
You didn't say what kind of wood you have, but my experience with
Gorilla glue is that it works nicely with such things a walnut and
cherry, as of course, pine, spruce, etc.
Yes, epoxy is the way to go.
And, in my opinion, polyurethane glues have absolutely no use in making
fine furniture or cabinets. It is a real pain-in-the-ass to clean up
the ooze out, and if you have any gap at all in the joint the expanded
polyurethane has zero strength. Polyurethane glue is a solution
looking for a problem, because there are much better alternative
adhesives.
Mort
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Rick Samuel wrote:
>
> > Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever
> worked
> > with is Titebond. Need more time.
>
> Cut to the chase, use the good stuff.
>
> Epoxy
>
> West Systems has slow hardner that will give you at least an hour of
> pot time.
>
> Screw the Gorilla glue. IMHO, it's garbage.
>
> Lew
Rick Samuel wrote:
> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
> with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Titebond III is about 10 minutes. The Titebond liquid "hide" glue is
similar. Either are much slower than standard white PVA glue which can
be almost "instant" for tight joints in porous woods. Titebond I & II
are about 5 minutes. If you are looking for something much slower for
laminating or something similar try:
http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00030201.pdf
This is a urea formaldihyde "Plastic Resin Glue" that gives you plenty
of time. It doesn't foam. It is a powder and you mix what you need
with water. It has a four hour pot life and would normally be clamped
for 24 hours or more. A Yahoo search for DAP Plastic Resin Glue will
bring up several suppliers.
On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 00:50:37 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Rick Samuel wrote:
>
> > Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever
>worked
> > with is Titebond. Need more time.
>
>Cut to the chase, use the good stuff.
>
>Epoxy
>
>West Systems has slow hardner that will give you at least an hour of
>pot time.
>
Absolutely agree. I've been using West Systems epoxy for years, and
it will be perfect for what the OP wants.
Note to Rick: you won't find West at HD. Look for a boating/marine
supply store. Those places usually have it in stock.
On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 19:11:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Rick Samuel wrote:
>
>> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
>> with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
>> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
>Have you considered Titebond Extend? Gives you about 3 times the working
>time of regular Titebond.
I'm curious. How much time do I have with regular Titebond? I was
gluing something up recently and I wanted to avoid squeeze-out as much
as possible. I ran a line of glue around the 9' or so of the project,
stopping at intervals to spread it across the width of the 3/4"
plywood with a brush. Then I applied 14 clamps. I'm pretty sure that I
was still within the window, but I realized that I didn't really know
what the window was.
Greg Guarino
> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
> with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
>
This is a glue sold by GW, "slo-set" white glue for wood, currently on closeout.
I bought some for an upcoming project, but I have not tried it yet. Decent price.
http://www.garrettwade.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=102764&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=0&iSubCat=0&iProductID=102764
This is the only place in the US that I could find it for sale it online, and I believe
it is also sold in Australia (searchable), if that's where you are. Here in the U.S. it
took five days to get to me from the east coast to the west coast. I think it was
UPS.
--
}<)))*> Alex - who is learing woodwork
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
And Rockler.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Bill wrote:
> Note to Rick: you won't find West at HD. Look for a boating/marine
> supply store. Those places usually have it in stock.
As does Woodcraft.
--
It's turtles, all the way down
Rick Samuel wrote:
> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
> with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Have you considered Titebond Extend? Gives you about 3 times the working
time of regular Titebond.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
slideways wrote:
>
> henry wrote:
>> Check the open time for hide glue
>
> "real" hide glue heated to 140 degrees has less than a minute on heated
> wood and 30 seconds on cold wood. The stuff in the bottle is really not
> worth using IMO It has a very critical shelf life from what I have
> heard.
>
I've used the liquid stuff for several projects over the years. I've never
had any trouble, but I checked the date on the container before buying. If
it's less than a year old it works fine. And yes, it has a long open time.
The "real" stuff does "tack up" pretty quick, but it'll still grip for a few
minutes or more. I haven't done it yet, but urea (try a garden center) will
keep it usable longer. I don't remember the porportions. Do a Google.
--
It's turtles, all the way down
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 19:11:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Rick Samuel wrote:
>>
>>> Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever
>>> worked
>>> with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up?
>>> Is
>>> that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly
>>> appreciated.
>>
>>Have you considered Titebond Extend? Gives you about 3 times the working
>>time of regular Titebond.
>
> I'm curious. How much time do I have with regular Titebond? I was
> gluing something up recently and I wanted to avoid squeeze-out as much
> as possible. I ran a line of glue around the 9' or so of the project,
> stopping at intervals to spread it across the width of the 3/4"
> plywood with a brush. Then I applied 14 clamps. I'm pretty sure that I
> was still within the window, but I realized that I didn't really know
> what the window was.
Officially they say 5 minutes open time for regular, 10 for Titebond III, 15
for Extend. My gut tells me that those are conservative, but I've never
timed gluing.
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 16:52:56 -0500, "Rick Samuel" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have a fairly complicated (for me) assembly coming up. All I ever worked
>with is Titebond. Need more time. Do all polyurethane glues foam up? Is
>that any problem? Like open up a joint? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
This might help. When I have a lot of joints to glue up sometimes I
can leave one side dry, glue only one side, and clamp the assembly.
The next day I glue up the other side.