As Steve and Gary point out, acetone may not work, but fresh machining
often does.
The reason for this is perhaps common knowledge, but the first I heard
of it was about a year or so ago in FWW, where a cognoscens theorized
that acetone may clean up a surface immediately (for a short time), but
it actually made the surface worse within seconds owing to capillary(?)
action that brought *more* natural oils to the surface.
Haven't worked with cocobolo myself, but the prevailing wisoom amongt
the luthier crowd is that you've got to use an epoxy with cocobolo
because it's so oily.
--Steve
nospambob wrote:
> Tried Titebond II on scraps without acetone wipe prior and both woods
> failed. Wiped new scraps with acetone and used same glue and Cocobolo
> to Cocobolo worked but Coco to Maple failed. What next coach?
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:14:50 -0700, nospambob <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Maple will be feet, splines and clasp for Coco box. Had a HARD time
>prying the maple off and it separated at the glue joint with no
>splinters showing. Box not expected to get hard use and am feeling
>comfortable with your suggestion on Gorilla Glue, thanks.
sometimes I get separation too sometimes not. one trick is to use
enough glue so the surface is wet. more foam but a better bond too.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes
On 23 Sep 2005 07:19:50 -0700, "tom" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Maybe try some moisture-cured urethane? Now, get out there and win one
>for the gripper! Tom
yes poly glue is best don't use acetone but freshly mill/sand both
pieces and dampen both pieces.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes
> yes poly glue is best don't use acetone but freshly mill/sand both
> pieces and dampen both pieces.
> Knight-Toolworks
Question on that Steve, me about to glue-up my bench top maple in the
coming months, which is very hard smooth sugar type, very light colored,
are you talking about stuff like Dap brand powdered poly glues?
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
nospambob <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Tested the Gorilla Glue suggested by Steve Knight on scraps. Was able
> to pry the hard maple away from the Coco at the glue line but Coco to
> Coco wont budge. Using hard maple strip as a spline in splined miter
> for box with clasp per the Christian Becksvoort cover on recent FWW.
>
There is no appreciable stress on the glue in that joint, unless you are
trying to build a packing crate capacity box, in which case, I suggest a
different design approach.
I've made dozens of those joints, and the spline isn't going anywhere, once
glued. Cleanup of the glue is the primary concern. I've used a method of
taping the miter joint with blue tape, prior to cutting the spline slot,
and leaving it there at least part way through the glue curing stage, so as
to not have the squeezeout screw up the finishing stage.
Many of the boxes I worked on were walnut. Cocobolo should be beautiful!
Those boxes have piqued my interest, too. If I ever finish the list of
cabinets for the house...
Patriarch
On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 15:28:30 GMT, "Gary A in KC"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've used titebond III (that's '3') on cocobolo/cocobolo, cocobolo/maple and
>cocobolo/mahogany laminations in past year. Both worked fine. Never have
>used the acetone either - just do the glue up on relatively fresh cuts.
>
did you check it though. I bet with a title effort the joint will
break. hell it is hard to get a stronger the wood bond with gorilla
glue on cocobolo.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes
Maple will be feet, splines and clasp for Coco box. Had a HARD time
prying the maple off and it separated at the glue joint with no
splinters showing. Box not expected to get hard use and am feeling
comfortable with your suggestion on Gorilla Glue, thanks.
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:07:05 -0700, Steve knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:01:21 -0700, nospambob <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Tested the Gorilla Glue suggested by Steve Knight on scraps. Was able
>>to pry the hard maple away from the Coco at the glue line but Coco to
>>Coco wont budge. Using hard maple strip as a spline in splined miter
>>for box with clasp per the Christian Becksvoort cover on recent FWW.
>>
>
>hum I don't think I never glued maple and cocobolo but you would thin
>the joint would be fine. I don't remember if I ever tested two
>different woods I think I only did same woods.
>Knight-Toolworks
>http://www.knight-toolworks.com
>affordable handmade wooden planes
On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:01:21 -0700, nospambob <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Tested the Gorilla Glue suggested by Steve Knight on scraps. Was able
>to pry the hard maple away from the Coco at the glue line but Coco to
>Coco wont budge. Using hard maple strip as a spline in splined miter
>for box with clasp per the Christian Becksvoort cover on recent FWW.
>
hum I don't think I never glued maple and cocobolo but you would thin
the joint would be fine. I don't remember if I ever tested two
different woods I think I only did same woods.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes
On Fri, 23 Sep 2005 19:24:39 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Question on that Steve, me about to glue-up my bench top maple in the
>coming months, which is very hard smooth sugar type, very light colored,
>are you talking about stuff like Dap brand powdered poly glues?
I usually use gorilla glue myself.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes
Tested the Gorilla Glue suggested by Steve Knight on scraps. Was able
to pry the hard maple away from the Coco at the glue line but Coco to
Coco wont budge. Using hard maple strip as a spline in splined miter
for box with clasp per the Christian Becksvoort cover on recent FWW.
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:07:12 -0700, Steve <Steve> wrote:
>Haven't worked with cocobolo myself, but the prevailing wisoom amongt
>the luthier crowd is that you've got to use an epoxy with cocobolo
>because it's so oily.
>
>--Steve
>
>nospambob wrote:
>> Tried Titebond II on scraps without acetone wipe prior and both woods
>> failed. Wiped new scraps with acetone and used same glue and Cocobolo
>> to Cocobolo worked but Coco to Maple failed. What next coach?
I've used titebond III (that's '3') on cocobolo/cocobolo, cocobolo/maple and
cocobolo/mahogany laminations in past year. Both worked fine. Never have
used the acetone either - just do the glue up on relatively fresh cuts.
Gary in KC
"nospambob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tried Titebond II on scraps without acetone wipe prior and both woods
> failed. Wiped new scraps with acetone and used same glue and Cocobolo
> to Cocobolo worked but Coco to Maple failed. What next coach?