"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 18 Jan 2006 07:01:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>I have ordered Duginske's book.
>
> That's a good start. Add a set of Coolblocks to the order.
>
Even though it has roller guides?
--
Regards,
Mike
Flower Mound, Texas
The book will tell you everything you need to know.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
> blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
> woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
> book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
>
> Dave
>
On 18 Jan 2006 15:27:18 GMT, Bruce Barnett
<[email protected]> wrote:
Strongly agree, stay away from Timberwolf.
>[email protected] writes:
>
>> I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
>> blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
>> woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
>> book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
>
>Google this group for Iturra and get their catalog. It's a frigging
>book, and it's free. They have "must haves" for bandsaws.
>
>
>As for blades, Many people like Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
> http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/
> http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/
>Timberwolf has many names depending on the retailer.
>for example:
> http://www.woodcraftssupplies.com/pswoodblade.html
>
>Iturra likes Lenox blades. Read his catalog for some of the debate.
On Fri, 20 Jan 2006 20:03:24 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
No website email: [email protected] or toll-free 888-72207078.
You will not regret for the over 200 pages free catalog.
>
>>>Iturra likes Lenox blades. Read his catalog for some of the debate.
>
>
>I keep seeing the reference to Iturra. Can someone come up with a
>url?? I did a search and got nada..
On Fri, 20 Jan 2006 20:33:44 -0700, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
correction:
No website email: [email protected] or toll-free 888-722-7078.
You will not regret for the over 200 pages free catalog.
>>>>Iturra likes Lenox blades. Read his catalog for some of the debate.
>>
>>
>>I keep seeing the reference to Iturra. Can someone come up with a
>>url?? I did a search and got nada..
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
> You need blades between 3/8" and 1/4" wide. You can probably put a 3/8"
> blade in there and leave it for almost everything, but you want to have
> a few more on hand for specials. 3/8" will cut most gentle curves. 1/4"
> blades cut curves fine - less than this and you're probably in scrollsaw
> territory,
... and, strictly for the OP's benefit, a 3/8", 3 tpi, skip blade will do a
commendable job of resawing on a well setup 14" bandsaw.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
> blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
> woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
> book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
>
> Dave
>
You probably want three blades. 1/2" resaw, a 1/4" or 3/8" for general
purpose cutting, 1/8" for intricate curves.
I have done gentle curves with my re-saw blade and I've re-sawn small pieces
with my 1/4" gp blade when I only had a single cut and was too lazy to
change the blades.
On 18 Jan 2006 07:01:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
>blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
>woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
>book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
>
>Dave
Most folks that do general work normally have a 3/8" blade on most.... usually 8
or 10 teeth per inch (TPI)
For resawing, usually 5/8 or 3/4", 3 or 4 TPI... most of these blades have
little or no tooth set...
I do mostly lathe work with a lot of circle cutting but also cutting thick stock
that's usually green... I like a 1/2" 4 TPI blade for that...
For tight turns and stuff, you probably would use a 1/4'blade with a lot of
teeth, but I've never had that small of blade so I can't tell ya...
Also, your saw should have a guide to blades/uses inside the blade cover door...
if not, check out the manual..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
[email protected] writes:
> I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
> blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
> woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
> book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
Google this group for Iturra and get their catalog. It's a frigging
book, and it's free. They have "must haves" for bandsaws.
As for blades, Many people like Timberwolf and Woodslicer.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/
Timberwolf has many names depending on the retailer.
for example:
http://www.woodcraftssupplies.com/pswoodblade.html
Iturra likes Lenox blades. Read his catalog for some of the debate.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
2 must-haves IMHO. Something for resawing (1/2 or 3/4" 3tpi), and something
for curves (1/4" 10tpi). This will do 90% of what you want reasonably well.
-Steve
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just bought a Powermatic 14" w/riser. Are there 3 or 4 must have
> blades that I should start with? The saw will be use for general
> woodworking, maybe some minor resawing. I have ordered Duginske's
> book. Never used a bandsaw before. Thanks for any input.
>
> Dave
>
On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 03:01:16 GMT, "Michael Gresham"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> That's a good start. Add a set of Coolblocks to the order.
>Even though it has roller guides?
On a typical 14" saw, then yes.
Mine (Axminster 350) went through the standard plastic blocks,
Coolblocks, then added their "upgrade" bearing set. I've now gone back
to the Coolblocks (posts passim).
If you have _good_ bearings, then stick with them. But the bearings on
low-end bandsaws aren't as good, especially with narrow blades.
On 18 Jan 2006 07:01:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>I have ordered Duginske's book.
That's a good start. Add a set of Coolblocks to the order.
Maybe a couple of Allen keys too. Your saw probably needs a couple of
Allens for adjusting the guides. It's worth having spares of these and
keeping the with the machine, not having to get the toolbox. You might
also find that one or more of the lower guide adjustments need a
ball-ended or cut-down Allen to fit in place.
You need blades between 3/8" and 1/4" wide. You can probably put a 3/8"
blade in there and leave it for almost everything, but you want to have
a few more on hand for specials. 3/8" will cut most gentle curves. 1/4"
blades cut curves fine - less than this and you're probably in scrollsaw
territory,
Don't go below 1/4" until you're sure the guides can handle it. To
support this narrow blade with the rear guide it might be running with
teeth further back than usual. Coolblocks can deal with this, but it
chews them up, so swap them over end-for-end when using such narrow
blades. 3/16" should work, 1/8" can be fiddly on some machines.
A 14" machine should run a 1/2" blade. More than this is unlikely. 5/8"
might well appear to be working, but you have to ask if it's actually
any better than a 1/2" with the same teeth. Wider isn't better, if it's
beyond the machine's capabilities.
3/4" is right out, unless you're unusually lucky. The makers might claim
it works, you might be able to mount it on the wheels, but getting it to
track right is hard enough - then you still have the problem that it's
probably better to use a 1/2" with the same teeth and decent tension
than it is to be all macho with a huge blade that's flopping around
everywhere.
Improved springs (Iturra?) can improve some machines where there's not
much length allowed for the spring. Never tighten the spring down until
it bottoms out - that tends to break blades if there's a catch.
So in general, use 3/8" blades and set them up right. It works better
overall than trying to use a wider blade and failing.
Tooth profiles are important and Duginske is a good guide. You really
need to try a few and see what best suits the work you're doing. Make
notes! Hang a blade table up on your blade rack and know what you have
there. See what works for you, what doesn't, and do some more shopping
next time on that basis.
General use - 3/8" 6tpi skip-tooth
Scrolls - 1/4" 14tpi standard tooth
Scrolls in thicker material - 1/4" 10 tpi standard tooth - better chip
clearance
Lumbermilling - 1/2" 3 tpi hook or hook-skip (if you have a low powered
motor)
Joinery - 1/2" 14tpi standard tooth. This will give a lovely accurate
square crosscut, but it won't cut quickly owing to chip clearance.
Resawing depends on what you mean by it. Making thick dry boards into
two boards ready for thickness planing should use your big 3tpi blade.
Resawing to bookmatch fine cabinetry needs to leave a better finish
behind, so use 10 or maybe 14 tpi and standard teeth, not hook. This
will always be a slow cut, because of the chips. There's also a resaw
technique for small machines using a narow blade and allowing it to be
pushed backwards (rather than bowing sideways).
On Fri, 20 Jan 2006 20:03:24 GMT, [email protected] wrote:
>I keep seeing the reference to Iturra. Can someone come up with a
>url?? I did a search and got nada..
I don;t think there is one (or if there is it's not worth knowing). The
company is (was?) infamously web-phobic.
It's also impractical to order their products from outside the USA 8-(
Michael Gresham wrote:
> "Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On 18 Jan 2006 07:01:11 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have ordered Duginske's book.
>>
>>That's a good start. Add a set of Coolblocks to the order.
>>
>
>
>
> Even though it has roller guides?
>
LOL! I'll be damned if I'd put Cool Blocks on my Powermatic! Good
catch, Michael.
Dave
"Michael Gresham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0iDzf.17935$sq.14452@trnddc01...
>>
>
>
> Even though it has roller guides?
If you use the small 1/8" blades you will need to swap out the bearing
guides with something like cool blocks.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> I keep seeing the reference to Iturra. Can someone come up with a
> url?? I did a search and got nada..
Iturra Designs. No web page - but their phone number is 888-722-7078.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05