Forrest Woodworker II, zero clearance insert, and possibly a 5" blade
stabilizer (Forrest also.) Wire your saw for 240 volts and go with a
1/8" thick blade.
Yes, yes, etc.
Phil
WoodChuck wrote:
> Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
> What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
> blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>
> WoodChuck
>
>
regular kerf WWII 40 teeth. It's worth the price, woodchuck
dave
WoodChuck wrote:
>
> Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
> What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
> blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>
> WoodChuck
I just bought a WWII... Haven't gotten it on the saw, mostly because I
simply forgot it was sitting out there after I mowed the grass. Damn
this wreck for eating up some of my time. :)
A couple nights ago, after I had already ordered the WWII, I was running
some walnut through the TS. First time that I've worked with walnut. I
had a CMT blade in there, not sure how many teeth, but it was a combo
blade. The walnut came out nice and smooth. I started wondering if I
didn't just waste some money. Next I ran some pine, milled 2x4, through
the saw and started praying that the WWII does a better job. I haven't
been too terribly upset with the CMT, but after getting the Chopmaster
blade I thought the WWII might eliminate sanding for me. I'll find out
soon enough.
Thomas
Ramsey wrote:
> I'd like to alter the question a little. WITHOUT a Forrest blade,
> which one would you choose and what does it cost?
>
> On Thu, 07 Aug 2003 01:53:36 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Providing your saw is properly "tuned up".
>>
>>Forrest WoodWorker II, 40 tooth "REGULAR KERF"
>>30 tooth if you will more often cut 2" or thicker stock than not.
>>As long as you take care of the blade and let only Forrest to the sharpening
>>you can use it for all with out question except the melamine. BUT with
>>extra care it will cut melamine nicely also.
>>
>>Look to Spend about $100.00. You will never look back.
>>
>>
>>"WoodChuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
>>>contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
>>>What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
>>>blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>>>
>>>WoodChuck
>>>
>>>
>>
>
Nah, I'm gonna do like Riordan and vote for ARNOLD, of course. (Unless
his platform becomes too liberal for my taste...)
dave
Leon wrote:
>
> Dave? Are you going to throw your hat into the race for governor? LOL
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > regular kerf WWII 40 teeth. It's worth the price, woodchuck
> >
> > dave
> >
> > WoodChuck wrote:
> > >
> > > Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> > > contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to
> own?
> > > What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the
> same
> > > blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
> > >
> > > WoodChuck
"Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd like to alter the question a little. WITHOUT a Forrest blade,
> which one would you choose and what does it cost?
>
Ummm....still a Forest WWII. Like Nike says "Just Do It"
If you are shy about the price, take a moment and try to figure out why
people are putting them on everything from Craftsman to Unisaurs. Not many
of us throw money away, and yet tons of us all use the same blade. I have
quite a few blades on an old cast iron Craftsman, and NONE of them should be
allowed to ploay on the same arbor as my WWII. And except a cheap rip blade
for cutting junk, none do.
If it's not the price, and you just don't like Forrest or something, still
buy one.
Dig
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Providing your saw is properly "tuned up".
Forrest WoodWorker II, 40 tooth "REGULAR KERF"
30 tooth if you will more often cut 2" or thicker stock than not.
As long as you take care of the blade and let only Forrest to the sharpening
you can use it for all with out question except the melamine. BUT with
extra care it will cut melamine nicely also.
Look to Spend about $100.00. You will never look back.
"WoodChuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
> What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
> blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>
> WoodChuck
>
>
I agree.
Forrest WoodWorker II.
Rob
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Providing your saw is properly "tuned up".
>
> Forrest WoodWorker II, 40 tooth "REGULAR KERF"
> 30 tooth if you will more often cut 2" or thicker stock than not.
> As long as you take care of the blade and let only Forrest to the
sharpening
> you can use it for all with out question except the melamine. BUT with
> extra care it will cut melamine nicely also.
>
> Look to Spend about $100.00. You will never look back.
>
>
> "WoodChuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> > contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to
own?
> > What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the
same
> > blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
> >
> > WoodChuck
> >
> >
>
>
Dave? Are you going to throw your hat into the race for governor? LOL
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> regular kerf WWII 40 teeth. It's worth the price, woodchuck
>
> dave
>
> WoodChuck wrote:
> >
> > Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> > contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to
own?
> > What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the
same
> > blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
> >
> > WoodChuck
I'd like to alter the question a little. WITHOUT a Forrest blade,
which one would you choose and what does it cost?
On Thu, 07 Aug 2003 01:53:36 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Providing your saw is properly "tuned up".
>
>Forrest WoodWorker II, 40 tooth "REGULAR KERF"
>30 tooth if you will more often cut 2" or thicker stock than not.
>As long as you take care of the blade and let only Forrest to the sharpening
>you can use it for all with out question except the melamine. BUT with
>extra care it will cut melamine nicely also.
>
>Look to Spend about $100.00. You will never look back.
>
>
>"WoodChuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
>> contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
>> What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
>> blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>>
>> WoodChuck
>>
>>
>
Thanks for the input. I thought that would be the answer, but I was
concerned about sheet products with a 40 tooth blade. Looks like I can get
one for about 95.00 plus shipping.
WoodChuck
"WoodChuck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Assuming that I could only own one blade for my table saw (10" Delta
> contractor saw w/52" Beissemer fence), what would be the best one to own?
> What make and model? How many TPI? Could I get away with using the same
> blade on hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, melanine...?
>
> WoodChuck
>
>