On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:31:21 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>When I build cabinets or shelving, I expect the ends to show NO light
>against my Starrett square, no matter how wide the panel may be. I
>also expect them to be perfectly square, plump, and level when
>assembled.
I meant PLUMB! <G>
I don't know what I was thinking while I was typing.
Barry
And that sled is nothing more then 3/4 ply and ??? thick fences? I like the
way that seems to perform for you. Side support is high on my list of
things to accomplish.
SteveP.
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 07:58:07 -0400, "Stephen M"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have used 1/4 Luan, OSB and 1/2 cabinet grade ply.
> >
> >IMHO 3/4 will make it too heavy,
>
> Sometimes, I find heavy to be good for a sled. Check this out:
> <http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/longstockinsled1.jpg>
>
> That board is 7 feet long and not supported at the other end. <G>
>
> Barry
Howdy!
In article <[email protected]>, SGL <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
>out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
>available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
>I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
>in advance.
>
I've used some leftover laminate flooring, shiny-side down.
It's stiff and flat and has served me well for my purposes...
yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
[email protected] | White Wolf and the Phoenix
Bowie, MD, USA | Tablet and Inkle bands, and other stuff
| http://www.radix.net/~herveus/
In article <[email protected]>, SGL <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
I used some 1/4" plywood, a piece of 2x4, a piece of 2x6 and a couple
of strips of maple from some leftover flooring.
Why? It was lying around the shop and one day I wanted to make a
crosscut sled.
djb
--
Was that last sig line lame or what?
In article <[email protected]>, J T
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Yup. Same general idea, except 2X4 pieces, and a large chunk of
> that thick stuff, maybe 1 1/2" thick. Next one probably1/2' or 3/4"
> plywood.
Actually, mine is 3/8, not 1/4...
My next one will be 3/4, 'cause I have a piece lying around the shop
and I want to make a sled for 45 degree cuts.
djb
--
Was that last sig line lame or what?
Wed, Apr 14, 2004, 11:21pm (EDT-2) dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca
(Dave=A0Balderstone) says:
I used <snip> Why? It was lying around <snip>
Yup. Same general idea, except 2X4 pieces, and a large chunk of
that thick stuff, maybe 1 1/2" thick. Next one probably1/2' or 3/4"
plywood.
JOAT
I will feel equality has arrived when we can elect to office women who
are as unqualified as some of the men who are already there.
- Maureen Reagan
[email protected] (J T) wrote in news:4185-407E379E-141@storefull-
3191.bay.webtv.net:
> Wed, Apr 14, 2004, 11:21pm (EDT-2) dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca
> (Dave Balderstone) says:
> I used <snip> Why? It was lying around <snip>
>
> Yup. Same general idea, except 2X4 pieces, and a large chunk of
> that thick stuff, maybe 1 1/2" thick. Next one probably1/2' or 3/4"
> plywood.
>
> JOAT
> I will feel equality has arrived when we can elect to office women who
> are as unqualified as some of the men who are already there.
> - Maureen Reagan
>
A google search of the archives from not too long ago will yield a great
deal of information, including JOAT's odyssey in finding the perfect, for
him, crosscut sled.
Here's the truth, if such a thing is available: You're going to want more
than one sled. That's OK. They're cheap to make. The hardest part is
storing them in a small shop.
A big panel cutter, with a leading fence. A wide cutoff box, with fences
front and back for rigidity, and a place to clamp stop blocks, for
repeatable cuts. A small one, for quick use, when you don't want to clear
the entire aircraft carrier of a saw deck. One for miter cuts. OK, maybe
more than one for miter cuts.
Figure out which blade you're going to use, and stick with it. Part of the
function of these things is as sort of a zero clearance insert. A fat kerf
blade used with a sled originally used with a thin kerf blade causes
surprises the first time, and changes the geometry of the sled.
On a safety note: Glue a big block of hardwood behind where the blade
exits the fence on the operator side. Save yourself a nasty surprise.
Patriarch,
who enjoys reading JOAT's posts, in spite of the trolls' comments.
"SGL" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
> out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
> available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
I'm still very happy with Sled #2. 1/2" Baltic Birch for base; MDF for the
fence.
BB is a great/stable plywood. 1/2" is nice thickness (1/4" too thin - flex)
3/4" a smidge heavy.
Not a fan of MDF for base - heavy and dingable. If I couldn't find BB, I'd
buy the nicest sheet of Plywood HD had - or pick up some ApplePly from a
local lumber yard.
Fence needs to be square and flat. That's where MDF, as a man-made product,
excels. Fence #2 was a 1x6"x6' hunk of primed MDF from HD. Cut in two -
glued together to make it 1 3/4" thick. Bandsaw'd to produce pleasing
curves.
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Tom) wrote:
>Thinner stuff will give you more depth of cut...
And more flex. My 1/4" oak ply crosscut sled sucks because it bows up. I
love my 3/4" MDF sled and I've never needed to cut deeper than it can
handle.
"SGL" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
> out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
> available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
I personally only really use the sled for panels, so 3/4" stock isn't
going to cut into my max depth too much. I used baltic birch, but it
fell out of square so I decided to make a new one. I'm thinking MDF.
Cheap and flat. I hear a lot about MDF swelling, but in my
experience, unless untreated and submerged, this really isn't a
problem. I'll use Watco, paint or formica for to seal it. The extra
weight is nice so the side of a bookcase won't pull the sled off the
table.
On my old sled I had a fence made out of 2 3/4" pieces of MDF glued
together and then laminated on both side with some old formica I had
laying around. I was stupid and used glue and the nail gun to fasten
it to the base. The nails almost always split the MDF a little,
meaning my fence was out of square a little, wherever there was a
nail. Did some research and read Pat Warner's article about tapping
MDF. Seems like the best option, but I would like to hear any
opinions.
What kind of wood would be recommend for the fence? I have maple,
cherry, walnut, mdf and plywood on hand. Any suggestions? I may go
the same route with the MDF but am consider one of those longer fences
that extend past the end of the table. Maybe 50" long. ( per this
style http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/CrosscutSleds/CrosscutSledArticle.pdf
)
I'm tired of ruining a bookshelf when making that final trim cut and
want to do this right.
Chuck
Being completely anal about a sled this time, I just DAGS and here are
the highlights:
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/projects/xcutsled.shtml
this whole page is a good referenece
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/CrosscutSleds/crosscutsled_design_guide.html
also a good all around reference, especially the "materials" section
http://home.earthlink.net/%7Esonnypie/sledding.htm
http://www.woodworking.com/articles/index.cfm?fa=show&id=52
-Don't set the rear fence at the very edge of the base. If you set it
in an inch, it will protect the fence from bumps and jarring when off
the saw.
http://32mm.dalrun.com/System_Tools/Cutting/sled.html
-3/4 strip with stops that fits on the end of the table extension
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030822wb.html
-add a chamfer for dust relief
http://www.hannawoodworks.com/crosscutsleds.html
-the cross bar pieces of wood between the fence are interesting, I
wonder if it would help keep the fences square over the long haul.
PITA to slid the panels in though.
Still would be interested to hear what material people would use on
one of those long 50" fences.
Chuck
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:45:46 GMT, Mark <[email protected]> wrote:
>What, no chop saw? Mark
Of course I have a chop saw.
I use sleds to cut w-i-d-e parts way more accurately than a sliding
compound miter saw can. Not to mention precision dadoing and end
rabbetting.
Barry
"SGL" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
> out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
> available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
Best bet, if you are stuck with HD plywood, is to buy a sheet (or a 1/2
sheet) of 1/2" plywood ... the best grade they have and as flat as you can
find.
Forego the 2 X lumber completely.
Use the 1/2" thickness plywood for your base.
The make a laminated fence(s) by cutting multiple identical parts and glue
them together with a good wood glue to a desired thickness. No need to
clamp, just screw the fence parts together with well placed screws.
This way you get a better depth of cut with the 1/2" thick base, and you get
the dimensional stability of plywood throughout your sled parts.
Use hardwood runners for your miter slots ... HD oak is fine, and you won't
need much.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 05:04:20 GMT, "SGL" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
>out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
>available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
>I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
>in advance.
>
Birch or oak ply.
Melamine is too slippery, your work may move. MDF is OK, but it may
swell, crack, or chip.
Barry
I have used 1/4 Luan, OSB and 1/2 cabinet grade ply.
IMHO 3/4 will make it too heavy, and take a significan bite into depth of
cut. Good quality 1/2" or 3/8" ply is my favorite choice.. the best
compromise of weight and stability. OSB was not flat enough for my liking,
but OK for a specialy sled.
I agree that melamine would be too slippery, really heavy too. Laminated MDF
makes a good fence though (nice and flat).
-Steve
"SGL" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
> out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
> available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
B a r r y <[email protected]> writes:
>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:31:21 GMT, B a r r y
>>also expect them to be perfectly square, plump, and level when
>>assembled.
>
>I meant PLUMB! <G>
Yeah, sure.
>I don't know what I was thinking while I was typing.
I bet I do.... :^)
--
Chris Richmond | I don't speak for Intel & vise versa
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:31:21 GMT, B a r r y
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >When I build cabinets or shelving, I expect the ends to show NO light
> >against my Starrett square, no matter how wide the panel may be. I
> >also expect them to be perfectly square, plump, and level when
> >assembled.
>
> I meant PLUMB! <G>
>
> I don't know what I was thinking while I was typing.
>
> Barry
>
I don't either, but does she have a sister?
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
I made mine from 1/4" plywood from Home Depot. It was fine when I made
it. But after I left it in my garage woodshop for a couple weeks, it
bowed (because of the relatively high humidity level). I had already
put finish on the plywood when I made the sled; but that didn't
prevent it from becoming bowed.
On the other hand, a piece of unfinished MDF that I left near the
ground level (4" off the ground) for one year is still straight.
When I re-do mine, I will use MDF or melamine.
Jay Chan
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 07:58:07 -0400, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have used 1/4 Luan, OSB and 1/2 cabinet grade ply.
>
>IMHO 3/4 will make it too heavy,
Sometimes, I find heavy to be good for a sled. Check this out:
<http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/longstockinsled1.jpg>
That board is 7 feet long and not supported at the other end. <G>
Barry
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 09:34:21 -0400, "Steven P"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>And that sled is nothing more then 3/4 ply and ??? thick fences?
An 4/4 ash front and 8/4 ash rear fence. If the wood starts to lift
the sled, I put a paint can or a weight plate, as in barbell, to
offset things.
Barry
What, no chop saw? Mark
B a r r y wrote:
> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 07:58:07 -0400, "Stephen M"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I have used 1/4 Luan, OSB and 1/2 cabinet grade ply.
>>
>>IMHO 3/4 will make it too heavy,
>
>
> Sometimes, I find heavy to be good for a sled. Check this out:
> <http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/longstockinsled1.jpg>
>
> That board is 7 feet long and not supported at the other end. <G>
>
> Barry
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 10:34:12 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 05:04:20 GMT, "SGL" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
>>out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
>>available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
>>I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
>>in advance.
>>
>
>
>Birch or oak ply.
>
>Melamine is too slippery, your work may move. MDF is OK, but it may
>swell, crack, or chip.
>
>Barry
one sided 1/4" melamine is great though. put the finished side down
and wax it.
B a r r y wrote...
> I have a General 650 table saw, accurately set up. I also own a
> Delta Sidekick 10" SCMS, set up as well as I can get it. The General
> has much less arbor runout than the SCMS, so it makes a _really_
> square cut. There is no comparison at all between a properly tuned
> table saw compared to any miter saw I've ever seen. Maybe I just
> haven't seen the right miter saw? <G>
> When I build cabinets or shelving, I expect the ends to show NO light
> against my Starrett square, no matter how wide the panel may be.
So, your talking about square in two directions: the angle between the
face of the board and the end that was crosscut, and the angle between
the edge and the end. Do I understand you correctly?
You say that when you check a board that you cut on the table saw against
your square, you get no light between the square and the end of the
board. When you make the same cut on the SCMS, light peeks through. Is
this because the cut is out of square, or because the cut edge is not
planar?
> I can cut 6' tall, 16" wide 3/4" panels on my sled that will stand on
> end, alone, without support. I can't do that with my SCMS.
Neither can I. My SCMS can make a 13" crosscut, max. (DW708)
Thanks,
Jim
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 05:04:20 GMT, "SGL" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
>out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
>available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
>I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
>in advance.
>
Used 1/2" Baltic birch for the base. laminated two pieces of the same
for the front and back fences, and cut maple strips for the runners.
I sealed the top of the base with poly, waxed the bottom with
finishing wax.
The design was from Kelly Mehler's "The Table Saw Book"
Bc
path.walk.at.cen.tury.tel.net
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"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:31:21 GMT, B a r r y
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> I meant PLUMB! <G>
>
> I don't know what I was thinking while I was typing.
BBW. Itz OK, it happens.
Just made one out of MDF. I like working with it more than ply. Heavier
than ply, but it's my preference to use it. Whatever you use, seal it
all around and wax the bottom. Mark
SGL wrote:
> I am getting ready to make a crosscut sled. I was going to make the sled
> out of 3/4" x 2' x 4' material from HD. The types of material they have
> available, that I am considering, are birch, oak, melamine, and MDF.
> I am looking for any opinions on which material to use and why. Thanks
> in advance.
>
>
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:46:29 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>B a r r y wrote...
>
>> I use sleds to cut w-i-d-e parts way more accurately than a sliding
>> compound miter saw can.
>
>Just curious -- what do you consider "way more accurately"? Not trying to
>nitpick, but I've heard this claim before and I'd like to quantify it.
>
I have a General 650 table saw, accurately set up. I also own a
Delta Sidekick 10" SCMS, set up as well as I can get it. The General
has much less arbor runout than the SCMS, so it makes a _really_
square cut. There is no comparison at all between a properly tuned
table saw compared to any miter saw I've ever seen. Maybe I just
haven't seen the right miter saw? <G>
When I build cabinets or shelving, I expect the ends to show NO light
against my Starrett square, no matter how wide the panel may be. I
also expect them to be perfectly square, plump, and level when
assembled. The larger the part, the smaller the error needs to be to
throw off the works.
I can cut 6' tall, 16" wide 3/4" panels on my sled that will stand on
end, alone, without support. I can't do that with my SCMS. The
proof is when I assemble a bookcase, and it dosen't matter which end
gets slid into the dado first, as it's ALL square and straight.
The SCMS is simply not as good. I haven't measured it, so I can't
give you anything like 1/64" over 18" from square, or a percentage of
degrees, etc... It just works.
Barry
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 22:11:30 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>So, your talking about square in two directions: the angle between the
>face of the board and the end that was crosscut, and the angle between
>the edge and the end. Do I understand you correctly?
Exactly.
>You say that when you check a board that you cut on the table saw against
>your square, you get no light between the square and the end of the
>board. When you make the same cut on the SCMS, light peeks through. Is
>this because the cut is out of square, or because the cut edge is not
>planar?
A little bit of both, sometimes with a tiny bit of variance. Don't
get me wrong the SCMS is plenty accurate for typical trim jobs,
baseboard, flooring, and of course, anything that requires less
accuracy, like rough shortening or framing work.
For furniture or cabinet work, the table saw is the rig of choice. I
know pro finish guys who drag Unisaws from job to job.
Of course dados and rabbets are a whole 'nuther story. While they can
be routed, my own personal preference is the sled and table saw for
dadoing, rabbets get cut as rips with a dado set.
Barry