What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?
BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.
I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just fell
out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on hikes).
Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
out much better than the hand-holding end.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/16774811977_b846f72bc2_c.jpg
For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/16794734360_1797bb2f0e_c.jpg
The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep replacing
it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg protectors, let me
know.
"Danny D." <[email protected]> writes:
>dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:
>
>> I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
>> tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it
>> is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.
>
>This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar. They
>have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they retop it,
>there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the cars. So it's a
>rough surface.
chipseal
It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few
days, it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not
had problems with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose.
On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 11:24:41 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
> A bicycle grip might work. The wife changes hand position, so, it's
> probably best not to put any grip. The whole point was to enjoy the wood,
Covering up the wood, but a wrap, like for tennis racket handles (in a pleasing color/decor) might be an option....
> .... here in California ....
The "Valley Girl" (decor wrap) option? - just had a wild idea of Moon Unit using a decor wrap on a walking stick (sic).
Sonny
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 5:20:35 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Danny D. wrote:
> > What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
As said, eopxy to fill, then wrap the wet leather around it, for decor.
> > For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
> > https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/16794734360_1797bb2f0e_c.jpg
> >
> > The rubber doesn't last long;=20
> The first place I would look would be at the guys that sell walkers, cane=
s,=20
> etc. =20
Cane and crutch rubber tips will last for moderate "domestic" use, but prob=
ably not great for your wife's kind of dedicated walking or for hiking. =
=20
Have any old roller skates around? ...Or buy roller skate breaks. Unscrew =
the front (very hard rubber? or whatever it's made of) break, drill an appr=
opriate size hole (to fit the walking stick) and (cotter?) pin it, cross-wi=
se, to the walking stick. Maybe use a thin metal insert sleeve, like copp=
er tubing, rather than a thick steel sleeve. With a pin, a thin sleeve sho=
uld do fine, I would think, no need for a thick sleeve.
Long ago, on a pickup truck, the tailgait rubber sleeve, for pivoting the t=
ailgait, wore out. I used a roller skate break for a replacemnet. Lasted =
for years and years. The hard "rubber" of those breaks, drills easily.
Sonny
On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 1:41:08 AM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:=20
>=20
> > On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:43:44 PM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:
> >> Markem <[email protected]> wrote in=20
> >> news:[email protected]:
> >>=20
> >> > On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> >> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >=20
> >> >>Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
> >> >>
> >> >>> chipseal
> >> >>>=20
> >> >>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few
> >> >>> days, it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not
> >> >>> had problem=20
> > s
> >> >>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
> >> >>
> >> >>Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they
> >> >>call it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few
> >> >>years to=20
> > =20
> >> >>chip-and-seal it.=20
> >> >>
> >> >>It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
> >> >=20
> >> > Macadam is an east coast name.
> >>=20
> >> And it's a street name in Portland, OR
> >>=20
> >> http://tinyurl.com/qfnykej
> >> http://tinyurl.com/nn96mt6
> >=20
> > And the name of that spooky family from Ireland.=20
> >=20
> > You know, The MacAdams Family.
> >=20
> > They're creepy and they're craice=E1ilte
> > Mysterious and uaigneach
> > They're altogether d=E9istineach
> > The MacAdams Family
>=20
> Nope, it's: The Addams Family
>=20
> http://www.addamsfamily.com/
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Addams_Family
See here:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=3DQ27YiPRiewg
"Danny D." wrote:
> What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
----------------------------------------------
Epoxy and micro-balloons.
1) Open up the crack by removing ALL the failed items you have tried.
You need a clean rough surface.
2) Mix up some slow epoxy and wet out all the cleaned surfaces
with epoxy.
3) Take the remaining mixed epoxy and add micro-balloons mixing as
you go until you have a mixture the consistency of mayonnaise.
Using a paint mixing stick or equal, apply thickened epoxy as req'd to
fill crack completely allowing 10% overfill.
4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
5) Wet out a piece of leather and wrap the repair.
No suggestions for tip.
Have fun.
Lew
"John McCoy" wrote:
> Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
> a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
> the mixture).
--------------------------------------------------------
Why waste quality epoxy with garbage filler?
Micro-balloons, even in small quantity, are inexpensive.
Lew
"Danny D." wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> 4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
---------------------------------------------------------
"Danny D." wrote:
> One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the
> question
> simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark
> (which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).
>
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8747/16798769859_66e9574fa2_c.jpg
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sand off the excess epoxy putty, not the wood.
BTW, if you cover the repair with leather, you don't have tom be so
careful how you sand.
----------------------------------------------------
"Danny D." wrote:
> Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass
> powder.
> http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/02/stuff_eng_tech_microballoons.htm
>
> Can you buy them at the big box stores?
----------------------------------------------------------
Definitely NOT, you need to find a fiberglass supplier.
Got a boat builder in your area?
There used to be a couple of major yacht builders in Sweden.
Lew
On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 7:20:42 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Cane and crutch tips are fine for domestic use, not for that kind of walking/hiking use.
Not only will you need something more durable, like a skate break or how about a pogo stick tip, but you'll likely need a better attachment than simply slipping it on to the end of the stick. The attachment/attaching mechanism has to be durable, also.
Sonny
On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 10:17:59 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
> Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:
>=20
> > We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with the oil
> > on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area was all private
> > roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's
>=20
> What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is
> spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the=
=20
> loose rocks away.
>=20
> The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months,=
=20
> depending on the road use.
I'm not exactly sure what they are doing in my long-cold-winter area, but i=
nstead of filling the mid-winter pot holes with dark black asphalt, I've se=
en a few towns use a very light grey mixture of rocks and "I don't know wha=
t it is" binder. All I know is that the resulting fill is lighter than the =
grey that asphalt turns after a few years.
I suspect it is an epoxy resin of some sorts. Many of the quick patches
are that way - in a bag until needed - mix it in a wheel barrow and
instant patch that glues down even on wet pavement. Most people use
a torch stick to heat the hole dry and melt the sides a bit.
I used to buy a bag or two a year to fill in areas and even extended
my long driveway on one side with it. It was a dead end and had set
their machine for the return run just outside of the driveway - the
stopping point.
Martin
On 4/2/2015 10:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 10:17:59 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
>> Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:
>>
>>> We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with the oil
>>> on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area was all private
>>> roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's
>>
>> What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is
>> spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the
>> loose rocks away.
>>
>> The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months,
>> depending on the road use.
>
> I'm not exactly sure what they are doing in my long-cold-winter area, but instead of filling the mid-winter pot holes with dark black asphalt, I've seen a few towns use a very light grey mixture of rocks and "I don't know what it is" binder. All I know is that the resulting fill is lighter than the grey that asphalt turns after a few years.
>
On 3/31/2015 6:12 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> But maybe get her a Glock
Most in need of a walking stick are too old for striker fired tupperware...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Danny D." <[email protected]> writes:
>dadiOH wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 05:30:47 -0400:
>
>> When I made my cane, I used a brass ferrule and stuck in a rubber cork.
>
>What I like about a rubber cork is, if I choose the size wisely, that I
>can replace it with wine corks, which I have in abundance.
Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four
years of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is
still ok.
I have crushed rock in my long driveway. All limestone. It flattens
out as the weight of tires crush it into place. The small chunks and
dust glue the mass together.
I can eat it up with my tractor tires, to much weight on thin ridges
that are designed to fit into the ground/mud.
I had granite in the front 600' - it was never put in correctly and
is just sinking into the mud. If a pre-mix of fine dust and crushed
granite is laid down first - sinks in and forms a solid base, then the
rock is added to that stable base.
My driveway is 1400' to the house. Another 12-14 around two buildings
and back out the the main driveway. That second section is slowly
taking place.
Martin
On 4/2/2015 9:44 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote in news:s43Tw.145571
> [email protected]:
>
>> Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
>> is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
>> the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.
>
> Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If
> tar is added then it's "tarmac".
>
> In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become
> synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more
> (pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas
> steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the
> replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of
> the automobile).
>
> John
>
We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with
the oil on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area
was all private roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's.
Martin
On 4/1/2015 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
> Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
>
>> chipseal
>>
>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
>> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
>
> Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
> it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
> chip-and-seal it.
>
> It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
>
"G. Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in news:aOednakNkvemJ4TInZ2dnUU7-
[email protected]:
> Danny D. wrote:
>> What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
>> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
> I would use Epoxy with a half-drop of black dye mixed in.
Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
the mixture).
John
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:5519fa0f$0$44107
[email protected]:
>
> "John McCoy" wrote:
>
>> Likewise I'd use epoxy, but I'd mix sawdust in it to make
>> a putty (and I'd skip the dye, the sawdust will darken
>> the mixture).
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste quality epoxy with garbage filler?
>
> Micro-balloons, even in small quantity, are inexpensive.
True, but then you end up with epoxy-colored epoxy.
Using sawdust or sanding dust gives you a dark color
that generally looks better. And in this application
the strength of the result (which is probably better
with micro-balloons) isn't a concern.
John
"Danny D." <[email protected]> wrote in news:mfgs70$h2m$1@dont-
email.me:
> Mayayana wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:50:15 -0400:
>
>> If it were me I'd sacrifice the aesthetic appeal of the home made cane
>
> But that's the whole point!
Maybe put a tennis ball over the end when going for a long
walk on rough surfaces? Then it can be removed for indoor
use, or other situations where appearance is important.
John
Martin Eastburn <[email protected]> wrote in news:s43Tw.145571
[email protected]:
> Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
> is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
> the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.
Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If
tar is added then it's "tarmac".
In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become
synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more
(pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas
steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the
replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of
the automobile).
John
Danny D. wrote:
> What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
>
> Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?
>
> BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.
>
> I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just fell
> out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on hikes).
>
> Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
> out much better than the hand-holding end.
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/16774811977_b846f72bc2_c.jpg
>
> For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/16794734360_1797bb2f0e_c.jpg
>
> The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep replacing
> it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg protectors, let me
> know.
>
>
I would use Epoxy with a half-drop of black dye mixed in. They make
crutch tips and walking cane tips. Take it to a drug store and see
which fits.
--
GW Ross
Friends come and go. Enemies are
forever.
On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:43:44 PM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:
> Markem <[email protected]> wrote in=20
> news:[email protected]:
>=20
> > On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >=20
> >>Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
> >>
> >>> chipseal
> >>>=20
> >>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
> >>> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problem=
s
> >>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
> >>
> >>Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
> >>it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to=
=20
> >>chip-and-seal it.=20
> >>
> >>It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
> >=20
> > Macadam is an east coast name.
>=20
> And it's a street name in Portland, OR
>=20
> http://tinyurl.com/qfnykej
> http://tinyurl.com/nn96mt6
And the name of that spooky family from Ireland.=20
You know, The MacAdams Family.
They're creepy and they're craice=E1ilte
Mysterious and uaigneach
They're altogether d=E9istineach
The MacAdams Family
On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:35:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
> dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:
>=20
> > I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
> > tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it
> > is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.
>=20
> This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar. They=20
> have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they retop it,=
=20
> there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the cars. So it's a=20
> rough surface.
Since you don't need anything up the sides of the cane, these Soap Box Derb=
y brake pads could be cut into circles, then drilled for a flat head machin=
e screw which could be screwed into a threaded insert epoxied into the bott=
om of the cane.
http://www.soapboxracing.com/browse.cfm/4,9.html
These brake pads are made of conveyor belt material and are about 1/2" thic=
k. Any similar material should work.
You can see the brake being applied if you look under this car in the follo=
wing picture. The pad is screwed to a 3" x 3" steel plate at the bottom of =
a steel shaft.
http://bubbaracing.pbworks.com/f/Img_5715.jpg
A single pad is used to bring 255 lb cars travelling at 25-30 MPH to a stop=
via downward pressure on the road. They last 15 races or more depending on=
the road surface. I imagine that they would last a very long time with the=
relatively tiny amount of pressure - and no real drag - of a walking stick=
.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Danny D." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:
>
> > I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That
> > can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
> > personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple
> > of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really
> > know?
>
> The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a month
> each.
Danny D.-
You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem slipping.
How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through? If so, look
at smoothing the bottom of the sleeve and putting a fiber washer under
it as a buffer.
At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work?
What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?
Fred
In article <[email protected]>,
"Danny D." <[email protected]> wrote:
> I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork
> stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find
> them in cheap bulk quantities.
Danny D.-
I found rubber stoppers at Ace Hardware next to their O-Rings.
Fred
On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
>
>> chipseal
>>
>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
>> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
>
>Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
>it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
>chip-and-seal it.
>
>It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
Macadam is an east coast name.
Danny D. wrote:
> What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
>
> Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?
>
> BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.
>
> I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just
> fell out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on
> hikes).
>
> Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
> out much better than the hand-holding end.
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/16774811977_b846f72bc2_c.jpg
>
> For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/16794734360_1797bb2f0e_c.jpg
>
> The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep
> replacing it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg
> protectors, let me know.
I'd go with the leather wrap , that end of the stick is not stable due to
the open end grain . It moves with temp/humidity changes . Wet the leather
before you wrap , as it dries it'll shrink .
--
Snag
Danny D. wrote:
> What would you use to seal this crack in a manzanita walking stick?
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8736/16794473748_4b0ee6cc2d_c.jpg
>
> Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?
>
> BTW, I tried Elmers white glue (with sawdust) which just shrank.
>
> I tried Durham's Water Putty, but, putty is not a glue, and it just
> fell out as the stick flexed over time (it's what my wife uses on
> hikes).
>
> Note: The business end of the home-made manzanita walking stick worked
> out much better than the hand-holding end.
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8752/16774811977_b846f72bc2_c.jpg
>
> For that tip, I bought a steel sleeve, & a rubber chair leg protector:
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8689/16794734360_1797bb2f0e_c.jpg
>
> The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep
> replacing it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg
> protectors, let me know
The first place I would look would be at the guys that sell walkers, canes,
etc. The medical supply guys. I'm sure they supply these ends, and I'd
hope they have at least a bit higher survivability rate. At the very least,
you'd know you're doing the best you can do.
I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That can
mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple of
years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really know?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:
> I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means. That
> can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long? I would
> personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at least a couple
> of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the hell do I really
> know?
The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a month
each.
Danny D. wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:
>
>> I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means.
>> That can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long?
>> I would personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at
>> least a couple of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the
>> hell do I really know?
>
> The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a
> month each.
Good input. I had no idea how long the tip would last. The only tip I
really have any experience with... didn't last long enough!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Lew Hodgett wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:28:08 -0700:
> 4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the question
simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark
(which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8747/16798769859_66e9574fa2_c.jpg
Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass powder.
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/02/stuff_eng_tech_microballoons.htm
Can you buy them at the big box stores?
Danny D. wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:19:22 -0400:
>
>> I'm a bit confused by what the phrase "doesn't last long" means.
>> That can mean a lot of things. How long do we each consider long?
>> I would personally expect a walker or a cane end to last for at
>> least a couple of years, but I'm not as old as Swingman, so what the
>> hell do I really know?
>
> The cane will last forever; but the rubber tips last, oh, about a
> month each.
When I made my cane, I used a brass ferrule and stuck in a rubber cork.
They last for 3-5 years but I don't go hiking :(
If you relace the steel tip with one that is, say, 1/2 to 3/4 longer you can
partially insert a rubber cork. It will last much longer, more rubber to
wear. You will probably have to whittle it slightly to skinny part of the
taper down.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
.
Fred McKenzie wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:50:27 -0400:
> You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem
slipping.
I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork
stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find
them in cheap bulk quantities.
> How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through?
The metal sleeve is brand new (just put on Monday, only yesterday.)
What happened before was that the rubber tips wore thin from being used
on hikes by the wife. They holed in about a month (often less time than
that). I usually left them on for another few weeks, as they still
afforded some protection to the wood tip end for a while longer, even
when holed.
The metal tip was to prevent wear to the wood, as the stick still works
even as a wooden stick. The problem is that it will crack and break over
time, so, the point was to put the metal to protect the end, and to make
a uniform size for the rubber tip.
> At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work?
> What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?
A bicycle grip might work. The wife changes hand position, so, it's
probably best not to put any grip. The whole point was to enjoy the wood,
but, unfortunately, it cracked from being stored in the house, I guess
(very dry here in California these past few years).
On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 20:37:15 +0000 (UTC)
"Danny D." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Would you just cover the crack with a wrap of leather string instead?
I'd drill it, wood glue it, bolt it then wrap it in leather
> The rubber doesn't last long; but the wife likes it (so I keep
> replacing it). If there's a better idea than rubber chair leg
> protectors, let me know.
Piece of an auto tire would last
I'd add a flask into also if there's not one already
I always thought the business end was the handle since it becomes
weaponized upon need
But maybe get her a Glock
Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 19:34:03 +0000:
> Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four years
> of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is still ok.
Is this the rubber tip?
http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Gardening/45k4217s2.jpg
It is a bit big for the walking stick I made for the wife; but maybe I
can fit a steel tip on the end, which then would fit the rubber insert.
Danny D. wrote:
> Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 19:34:03 +0000:
>
>> Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four
>> years of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is
>> still ok.
>
> Is this the rubber tip?
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Gardening/45k4217s2.jpg
>
> It is a bit big for the walking stick I made for the wife; but maybe I
> can fit a steel tip on the end, which then would fit the rubber
> insert.
Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and all
sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and they don't
wear out even after years of use. What's different about this particular
walking stick?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:
> Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and all
> sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and they don't
> wear out even after years of use. What's different about this
> particular walking stick?
Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but, I
would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.
It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15 miles
a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her friends), so it
lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.
How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75 miles?
Danny D. wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:
>
>> Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and
>> all sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and
>> they don't wear out even after years of use. What's different about
>> this particular walking stick?
>
> Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but,
> I would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.
>
> It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15
> miles a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her
> friends), so it lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.
>
> How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75
> miles?
I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane tip.
But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it is being
used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.
I once spent six weeks mapping the geological structure of a mountain in
Montana, lots of walking on both solid and loose stone surfaces. I shredded
my first pair of heavy sole work shoes and the second pair was half way
shot.
A road is not the same as a mountain but it is also not the same as "round
the house".
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
My first choice would be a new cane. Maybe you could
use a heavy-duty band clamp. Maybe 5-minute epoxy.
Another possibility might be to epoxy in a steel shaft
coming up from the bottom.
But I'm not sure any repair is realistic. A cane is
something you need to depend on. One collapse could
be very dangerous. If it were me I'd sacrifice the
aesthetic appeal of the home made cane and just make
sure I had a strong one.
Danny D. wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 23:27:26 -0400:
>
>> Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and
>> all sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and
>> they don't wear out even after years of use. What's different about
>> this particular walking stick?
>
> Good question. This walking stick is mostly used on the roadway, but,
> I would think people who use canes use 'em on the roadway as well.
>
> It gets maybe, oh, about three miles a day, which is only about 15
> miles a week (roughly, given she only walks weekdays with her
> friends), so it lasts roughly 50 to 75 miles.
>
> How long do canes last typically? Do they go a month at 50 to 75
> miles?
Hmmmmm... don't really know, but I would intuitively think so. I would
think that as long as it's not being dragged along the roadway as she walks,
that it should easily go that long and longer, but I could be wrong.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:
> I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
> tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon which it
> is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is another.
This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar. They
have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they retop it,
there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the cars. So it's a
rough surface.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Danny D. wrote:
>> Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 19:34:03 +0000:
>>
>>> Lee Valley part # 45K42.18 has been quite robust for me; over four
>>> years of rough trails and concrete sidewalks and the rubber tip is
>>> still ok.
>>
>> Is this the rubber tip?
>> http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Gardening/45k4217s2.jpg
>>
>> It is a bit big for the walking stick I made for the wife; but maybe
>> I can fit a steel tip on the end, which then would fit the rubber
>> insert.
>
> Call me dense, but I don't get this. People use canes, crutches and
> all sorts of things, everyday - that have rubber tips on them and they
> don't wear out even after years of use. What's different about this
> particular walking stick?
>
Soft rubber grips good, but wears quickly. Hard rubber will wear better,
but will not grip as well. A lot depends on how and where you use it - if
you tend to drag the stick over rough concrete or twist it when you put
weight on it, it won't last very long. etc.
That said, different brands of cane and crutch tips wear differently - and
there's no readily disernable differences in the tips themselves.
Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
> chipseal
>
> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
chip-and-seal it.
It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:35:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 08:20:36 -0400:
>>
>>> I don't walk that much but it has been YEARS since I changed my cane
>>> tip. But a factor as important as distance is the surface upon
>>> which it is being used...carpet/wood is one thing, a road is
>>> another.
>>
>> This road isn't paved, per se. It's small rocks pressed into tar.
>> They have a name for it, but it escapes me at the moment. When they
>> retop it, there are bits of tar gravel for months, all over the
>> cars. So it's a rough surface.
>
> Since you don't need anything up the sides of the cane, these Soap
> Box Derby brake pads could be cut into circles, then drilled for a
> flat head machine screw which could be screwed into a threaded insert
> epoxied into the bottom of the cane.
>
> http://www.soapboxracing.com/browse.cfm/4,9.html
>
> These brake pads are made of conveyor belt material and are about
> 1/2" thick. Any similar material should work.
>
> You can see the brake being applied if you look under this car in the
> following picture. The pad is screwed to a 3" x 3" steel plate at the
> bottom of a steel shaft.
>
> http://bubbaracing.pbworks.com/f/Img_5715.jpg
>
> A single pad is used to bring 255 lb cars travelling at 25-30 MPH to
> a stop via downward pressure on the road. They last 15 races or more
> depending on the road surface. I imagine that they would last a very
> long time with the relatively tiny amount of pressure - and no real
> drag - of a walking stick.
This may indeed be a workable solution, but to add another - go to home
depot, in the garden department and look for the recycled rubber tire paving
pads. They are cheap and one pad would probably outlive your life's needs -
if they work at all...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
>>
>>> chipseal
>>>
>>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
>>> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
>>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
>>
>>Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
>>it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
>>chip-and-seal it.
>>
>>It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
>
> Macadam is an east coast name.
And it's a street name in Portland, OR
http://tinyurl.com/qfnykej
http://tinyurl.com/nn96mt6
Baxter wrote:
> Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
>>
>> Macadam is an east coast name.
>
> And it's a street name in Portland, OR
>
Ha! Imagine a town like that... You ask "how do I get to XYZ", and you're
told to keep going until you get to the blacktop road...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:43:44 PM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:
>> Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> > On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >>Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
>> >>
>> >>> chipseal
>> >>>
>> >>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few
>> >>> days, it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not
>> >>> had problem
> s
>> >>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
>> >>
>> >>Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they
>> >>call it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few
>> >>years to
>
>> >>chip-and-seal it.
>> >>
>> >>It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
>> >
>> > Macadam is an east coast name.
>>
>> And it's a street name in Portland, OR
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/qfnykej
>> http://tinyurl.com/nn96mt6
>
> And the name of that spooky family from Ireland.
>
> You know, The MacAdams Family.
>
> They're creepy and they're craiceáilte
> Mysterious and uaigneach
> They're altogether déistineach
> The MacAdams Family
Nope, it's: The Addams Family
http://www.addamsfamily.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Addams_Family
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Baxter wrote:
>> Markem <[email protected]> wrote in
>
>>>
>>> Macadam is an east coast name.
>>
>> And it's a street name in Portland, OR
>>
>
> Ha! Imagine a town like that... You ask "how do I get to XYZ", and
> you're told to keep going until you get to the blacktop road...
>
----------
Oregon Public Broadcasting
7140 SW Macadam Ave
Portland, OR 97219
Directions to OPB
http://www.opb.org/about/directions/
---------
Johns Landing
4380, 4386, 5100, and 5550 SW Macadam Avenue
Portland, OR 97239
Johns Landing is one of the leading suburban business corridors in the
Portland metropolitan area, offering customers an unmatched business
environment and setting with numerous restaurants, hotels, and business
support services. With its eclectic variety of shops and restaurants,
contemporary buildings, historic residences and upscale condominiums,
Johns Landing offers neighborhood charm with urban culture.
http://tinyurl.com/q889b8g
Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:
> We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with the oil
> on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area was all private
> roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's
What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is
spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the
loose rocks away.
The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months,
depending on the road use.
Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.
Martin
On 4/1/2015 4:44 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 20:22:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Scott Lurndal wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 14:13:15 +0000:
>>
>>> chipseal
>>>
>>> It may be rough immediately after application, but within a few days,
>>> it's as smooth as any other asphalt. I've generally not had problems
>>> with tar on the car, either; at least in San Jose
>>
>> Yeah, I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains. Chip-and-seal is what they call
>> it, you're right. The airport & roads crew comes out every few years to
>> chip-and-seal it.
>>
>> It is a bit rougher I'd say, than the asphalt on the main roads.
>
> Macadam is an east coast name.
>