Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:
> > What kind of paint should you recommend for the
> > kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
> > permeable or not?
>
> It depends on several things, but I do have one
> over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
> all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
> term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
> the object of your affection with a film finish?
I was inexact because English is my second language.
I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
previous house, and should like to prevent it this
time.
Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
wood will actually decay.
--
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Ed Pawlowski to Anton Shepelev:
> > What kind of paint should you recommend for the
> > kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
> > permeable or not?
>
> I don't know enough about log construction to rec-
> ommend. I'd go to a good paint store and ask about
> it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.
I don't trust those guys even in large stores.
> Or I'd call someone like these guys
> http://www.logfinish.com/
> Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably
> know what is good inside.
They have indoor coatings too, so I shall ask their
advice. Thanks.
> Or check here
> http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/04/painting_log_walls.php
Nothing serious there.
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dadiOH to Anton Shepelev:
> > What product should you recommend for treating
> > the bathroom and kitchen in a log house? It
> > must help preserve wood in an environment where
> > large amounts of vapour a regularly released and
> > water is occasionally splashed onto the walls.
>
> Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs,
> non-log interior walls or cabinets?
All the walls in my house are log-walls. I want to
choose a treatment/finish for the interrior surfaces
of the logs, i.e. those that face inwards. I am not
talking about furniture (cabinets) but about bare
log walls.
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Mike Marlow:
> Log homes have interior partitions that are stan-
> dard stud and sheetrock construction -- that's
> probably what the OP is referring to.
No, my partitions are made of the same logs as the
outer walls. I am asking about the coating of the
walls of all rooms, whether it be internal walls or
the inner sides of external walls.
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dadiOH:
> OK. Elsewhere, you said you wanted a clear fin-
> ish. As a practical matter, you have four choic-
> es...
>
> 1. poly
> 2. alkyd
> 3. nitrocellulose
> 4. acylic
Thanks. I am considering coatings based on natural
oils and waxes, such as the OSMO "waxes":
http://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=257
> FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on
> the interior log walls.
Interesring. How old is it and in what condition
are the logs on the inside?
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dadiOH:
> Anton Shepelev:
> > dadiOH:
> >
> > > FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing
> > > on the interior log walls.
> >
> > Interesring. How old is it and in what condi-
> > tion are the logs on the inside?
>
> Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine es-
> sentially.
I shouldn't think it old enough to have darkened
completely, but I should certainly expect some no-
ticeable darkening after 20 years... Might it de-
pend on the species of wood?
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Mike Marlow:
> I'm happy to continue this discussion in this fo-
> rum, or to take it off-line if you prefer. My
> email address is in my sig.
I hope my e-mails have made it to your mail box
haven't wound-up in the SPAM compartment.
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In article <[email protected]>, Anton
Shepelev <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was inexact because English is my second language.
> I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
> the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
> turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
> black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
> previous house, and should like to prevent it this
> time.
My log builder recommended a polyurethane for the interior, and a two
part, three application) concoction for the exterior ( I forget what
it's called... It's been replaced with a two application product. I can
dig up the name if you need it).
Exterior:
Stain with part 1.
Chink
1 year later: Stain with part 1
1 year later again: Part two to seal.
Reapply part two after a couple of years.
Interior:
Polyurethane.
Chink
Polyurethane.
It's the UV that darkens the logs, so you need to protect against that.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
In article <[email protected]>, Leon
<lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> What I probably meant to say was that water based tends to go on like
> water and add no warmth to the natural color of the wood. Oil based
> stains tent to warm the color immediately.
Depends on the product. General Finishes Pre-cat Poly has a nice amber
tint on application, but they also make an optically clear poly.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
In article <[email protected]>, Mike Marlow
<[email protected]> wrote:
> You are likely to find that their interior finishes are little different
> from basic polyurethane. Again - there is nothing magic about interior
> finish options. They don't really create a lot of exotic, high tech
> finishes for the interior of a log home. Most of the stuff you see on the
> web sites is Marketing glib.
I used General Finishes' Pre-cat Poly in a satin. A slight amber tone
for warmth, spruce logs. Lovely inside.
Coat, chink the logs, coat.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:
>
>>> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
>>> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
>>> permeable or not?
>>
>> It depends on several things, but I do have one
>> over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
>> all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
>> term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
>> the object of your affection with a film finish?
>
> I was inexact because English is my second language.
> I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
> the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
> turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
> black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
> previous house, and should like to prevent it this
> time.
>
> Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
> wood will actually decay.
>
Water based is less likely to change colors
On 3/29/2015 9:27 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>
> It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover the object of your affection with a film finish?
>
> Deb
>
I'd consider doing those rooms. You want the kitchen easily cleanable
so you need a film barrier over the wood. A bit of color will also break
the monotony of even the nicest wood.
On 3/29/2015 8:41 AM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Hello, all
>
> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-perme-
> able or not?
>
> I am sorry if this is the wrong group, but I
> couldn't find a one more suitable to my question.
>
I don't know enough about log construction to recommend. I'd go to a
good paint store and ask about it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.
Or I'd call someone like these guys
http://www.logfinish.com/
Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably know what is good
inside.
Or check here
http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/04/painting_log_walls.php
On 3/29/2015 8:27 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
>
> It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover the object of your affection with a film finish?
>
> Deb
>
Perhaps he is talking about cabinets.
On 3/29/2015 2:07 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
>>> Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:
>>>
>>>>> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
>>>>> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
>>>>> permeable or not?
>>>>
>>>> It depends on several things, but I do have one
>>>> over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
>>>> all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
>>>> term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
>>>> the object of your affection with a film finish?
>>>
>>> I was inexact because English is my second language.
>>> I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
>>> the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
>>> turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
>>> black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
>>> previous house, and should like to prevent it this
>>> time.
>>>
>>> Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
>>> wood will actually decay.
>>>
>>
>> Water based is less likely to change colors
>
> Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't that only apply to UV effect? So, on
> vertical surfaces like walls, wouldn't that be less of a difference? I ask
> this because on my walls I do not seen anywhere near the yellowing that I do
> on horizontal surfaces that are subject to sunlight.
>
What I probably meant to say was that water based tends to go on like
water and add no warmth to the natural color of the wood. Oil based
stains tent to warm the color immediately.
On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:
>
>>> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
>>> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
>>> permeable or not?
As a builder I can say unequivocally, whatever Mike Marlow says.
Actual experience has no equal ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Hello, all
>
> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-perme-
> able or not?
Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs, non-log interior walls or
cabinets?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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Dr. Deb wrote:
> It depends on several things, but I do have one over arching
> question, "Why paint at all?" After all, you spent a great deal,
> both now and in long term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
> the object of your affection with a film finish?
>
Log homes have interior partitions that are standard stud and sheetrock
construction - that's probably what the OP is referring to.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Anton Shepelev wrote:
> I was inexact because English is my second language.
Dont' worry about it Anton - even for those of us to whom English is our
first language, we can screw up a thought with the best of them.
> I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
> the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
> turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
> black in about 25-40 years.
So - I own a log home and have lived in it for 30-ish years. What we used,
back when the house was built, was basic polyurethane. We used satin for
most of the log walls but there are some that we used gloss on. It's my
personal preference that the satin was the better choice. Since UV is not
really much of a problem inside the house, the amount of yellowing that is
associated with poly is not all that great - a bit, but not huge. Darker
has not been any kind of a problem, beyond a modest amount of yellowing.
You are incorrect in your assumption though, that untreated, it will yellow
to becoming almost black. That's just not what will happen. On the
outside - yes that could happen as the logs are exposed to weather, but you
will not experience that inside. That said - you will want some kind of
clear coat finish to simply keep normal cleaning to an acceptable level.
I'm happy to continue this discussion in this forum, or to take it off-line
if you prefer. My email address is in my sig.
> It happened with my
> previous house, and should like to prevent it this
> time.
If you experienced blackening of logs in your previous home, you had other -
major problems that were not related to applying a clear finish. Moisture
would be my first guess. If that's the case - a finish is not going to be a
miracle cure this time around. I suppose it could also be a reflection of
the type of logs that were used, and that's always a consideration, so there
is room for more discussion on that aspect of things as well.
>
> Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
> wood will actually decay.
Yes... but how much is "much vapor"? Again - been there done that, and our
experiences differ.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> I don't know enough about log construction to recommend. I'd go to a
> good paint store and ask about it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.
>
> Or I'd call someone like these guys
> http://www.logfinish.com/
> Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably know what is good
> inside.
>
> Or check here
> http://log-homes.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/04/painting_log_walls.php
I own a log home - have for over 30 years. Not a bad guess Edwin, but
generally speaking - interior and exterior do not equate to the same
options.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Ed Pawlowski to Anton Shepelev:
>
>>> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
>>> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
>>> permeable or not?
>>
>> I don't know enough about log construction to rec-
>> ommend. I'd go to a good paint store and ask about
>> it. Not a clerk at Home Depot.
>
> I don't trust those guys even in large stores.
>
>> Or I'd call someone like these guys
>> http://www.logfinish.com/
>> Looks like mostly outdoor stuff, but they probably
>> know what is good inside.
>
> They have indoor coatings too, so I shall ask their
> advice. Thanks.
>
You are likely to find that their interior finishes are little different
from basic polyurethane. Again - there is nothing magic about interior
finish options. They don't really create a lot of exotic, high tech
finishes for the interior of a log home. Most of the stuff you see on the
web sites is Marketing glib.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Leon wrote:
> On 3/29/2015 12:15 PM, Anton Shepelev wrote:
>> Dr. Deb to Anton Shepelev:
>>
>>>> What kind of paint should you recommend for the
>>>> kitchen and bathroom in a log building: vapor-
>>>> permeable or not?
>>>
>>> It depends on several things, but I do have one
>>> over arching question, "Why paint at all?" After
>>> all, you spent a great deal, both now and in long
>>> term maintenance, to have a log home, why cover
>>> the object of your affection with a film finish?
>>
>> I was inexact because English is my second language.
>> I meant a transparent coating that would preserve
>> the wood texture and color. Untreated wood will be
>> turning yellower and darker and will become nearly
>> black in about 25-40 years. It happened with my
>> previous house, and should like to prevent it this
>> time.
>>
>> Futhermore, where much vapour is generated untreated
>> wood will actually decay.
>>
>
> Water based is less likely to change colors
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't that only apply to UV effect? So, on
vertical surfaces like walls, wouldn't that be less of a difference? I ask
this because on my walls I do not seen anywhere near the yellowing that I do
on horizontal surfaces that are subject to sunlight.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Anton Shepelev wrote:
> Mike Marlow:
>
>> Log homes have interior partitions that are stan-
>> dard stud and sheetrock construction -- that's
>> probably what the OP is referring to.
>
> No, my partitions are made of the same logs as the
> outer walls. I am asking about the coating of the
> walls of all rooms, whether it be internal walls or
> the inner sides of external walls.
Ok - sorry for the assupmtion on my part. I did respond to other posts in
this thread, so I won't repeat myself, but feel free to throw out any
additional questions.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Anton Shepelev wrote:
> dadiOH to Anton Shepelev:
>
>>> What product should you recommend for treating
>>> the bathroom and kitchen in a log house? It
>>> must help preserve wood in an environment where
>>> large amounts of vapour a regularly released and
>>> water is occasionally splashed onto the walls.
>>
>> Are you wanting to paint the inside of the logs,
>> non-log interior walls or cabinets?
>
> All the walls in my house are log-walls. I want to
> choose a treatment/finish for the interrior surfaces
> of the logs, i.e. those that face inwards. I am not
> talking about furniture (cabinets) but about bare
> log walls.
OK. Elsewhere, you said you wanted a clear finish. As a practical matter,
you have four choices...
1. poly
2. alkyd
3. nitrocellulose
4. acylic
If you want hardness and durability, oil based poly varnish would be my #1
choice. Water base poly would also be acceptable and could be easier to
apply. Either would be more expensive than the other choices. If you
wanted more than one coat, you would need to apply them at approximately
four hour intervals.
I wouldn't consider pure alkyd varnish, hard to find and the poly would
serve better.
I've never heard of nitrocellulose lacquer being used for something like
this but I suppose it could be. I wouldn't.
There is an acrylic product called Sealkrete Original. It is used primarily
for vertical, cementatious surfaces but can be used on pretty much anything.
I have no experience with it on large wood surfaces but it might work. It
is relatively inexpensive, water base and can be sprayed with a garden type
sprayer. A recommended use is as a paint additive. It does not form a film
unless multiple coats are applied; a film from it is not hard and brittle
but rubbery/stretchy like most acrylic films.
http://www.sealkrete.com/find-a-product/find-a-product/vertical-waterproofing/original.aspx
FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on the interior log walls.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Anton Shepelev wrote:
>
>> FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing on
>> the interior log walls.
>
> Interesring. How old is it and in what condition
> are the logs on the inside?
Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine essentially.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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"Anton Shepelev" <anton.txt@g{oogle}mail.com> wrote in message
news:20150410191958.3449b48cf74f07632d696c62@g{oogle}mail.com...
> dadiOH:
>> Anton Shepelev:
>> > dadiOH:
>> >
>> > > FWIW, the semi-log house in my sig has nothing
>> > > on the interior log walls.
>> >
>> > Interesring. How old is it and in what condi-
>> > tion are the logs on the inside?
>>
>> Built in 1996, interior wood is fine, pristine es-
>> sentially.
>
> I shouldn't think it old enough to have darkened
> completely, but I should certainly expect some no-
> ticeable darkening after 20 years... Might it de-
> pend on the species of wood?
To some degree, sure. It is Western red cedar.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net