Reynaud wrote:
> I have bought replica reproduction ( tools planes, spoke shave etc) that
> are supposedly Stanley or Nielson. I can't adjust them worth a dam these
> are cheap . Are there any moderately priced tools that I should look at?
> I have been dealing with places like Home Depot.
HUH?!! The HDs around here don't sell repros, they sell Bucks. Lowes
sells Stanleys and, I think, Great Neck. Is that what you're thnking
of? If it is, you're right, they're crap. With enough sweat, you *can*
make them usable, but they'll never be as good as an old Stanley,
Sargent, Millers Falls, or any of a dozen other old brands. Tell us
more so we know what it is that you're up to.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.com
Reynaud wrote:
> Re Dave: I have just started to build canoes and kayaks and have to fair out
> the ribs and forms and up until now I've always used power tools. I find
> hand tools do an neater job when close to finishing also control is more
> precise. I am quite experienced in epoxy and fiberglass but woodwork is
> fairly new to me. I see planes advertised for anywhere from $200. to $2000.
> but they are out of my league. I was wondering if there are still planes
> below the $100. that would do the job?
Alex has given you some good links to check out. Depending on where you
are, the local antizue stores may have just what you need for about
$15-25 for the small to middle size planes and under $100 for the larger
ones. WARNING this is a slippery slope. If you haven't looked there
already, Jeff's website, http://www.amgron.clara.net/ is a wealth if
information. I get all my planes out of antique store, flea markets,
and yard sales. The ones I get for family are from Lee Valley. I enjoy
making a runsty old thing sing again, but I don't ask friends or family
to enjoy it.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.com
AAvK wrote:
> Thanks Dave, you seem to play is smart like I do, as frugal as all hell. But...
> I think it's time I finally joined your family? Maybe a nice gal there I can
> marry too? he he he he.. jez playinwiddya...
Ya might want to think twice about it. It's a Russian family, the women
tend to be, uh, assertive. %-)
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.com
"Dave in Fairfax" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Reynaud wrote:
>> I have bought replica reproduction ( tools planes, spoke shave etc) that
>> are supposedly Stanley or Nielson. I can't adjust them worth a dam these
>> are cheap . Are there any moderately priced tools that I should look
>> at?
>> I have been dealing with places like Home Depot.
>
> HUH?!! The HDs around here don't sell repros, they sell Bucks. Lowes
> sells Stanleys and, I think, Great Neck. Is that what you're thnking
> of? If it is, you're right, they're crap. With enough sweat, you *can*
> make them usable, but they'll never be as good as an old Stanley,
> Sargent, Millers Falls, or any of a dozen other old brands. Tell us
> more so we know what it is that you're up to.
>
> Dave in Fairfax
> --
> reply-to doesn't work
> use:
> daveldr at att dot net
> American Association of Woodturners
> http://www.woodturner.org
> Capital Area Woodturners
> http://www.capwoodturners.org/
> PATINA
> http://www.patinatools.com
Re Dave: I have just started to build canoes and kayaks and have to fair out
the ribs and forms and up until now I've always used power tools. I find
hand tools do an neater job when close to finishing also control is more
precise. I am quite experienced in epoxy and fiberglass but woodwork is
fairly new to me. I see planes advertised for anywhere from $200. to $2000.
but they are out of my league. I was wondering if there are still planes
below the $100. that would do the job?
Rey
"Reynaud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have bought replica reproduction ( tools planes, spoke shave etc) that
>are supposedly Stanley or Nielson. I can't adjust them worth a dam these
>are cheap . Are there any moderately priced tools that I should look at?
>I have been dealing with places like Home Depot.
>
> Rey
>
Re Replica tools: Thanks for all the excellent information guys.
Rey
> Alex, I had always been told that the best edge for a plane is hollow
> ground as from using a wheel. That way the chip is relieved of friction as
> it rolls away from the iron. THe only addition is a 10* back angle. Is
> this not right?
> TIA!
>
>
Not even slightly in a bevel down mounted blade in a bench plane. In such,
there is no chip deflection except off the chip breaker / cap iron. The chips
come up off the flat side (or the back, which is "up") of the blade and run
into a very closely set cap iron, the edge of which should be like 1/32" up
from the cutting edge.
Back bevels are for changing the angle, or degree of the cutting edge to
higher, for hard and highly figured hard woods. The back bevel allows one
to shorten the main cutting bevel to higher while keeping a 25º quality of
an edge which is a more "pointed" and "slicing" edge. That takes some
serious and careful grinding work, but can be easliy done one a machine
such s the following explanation, paragraph after the next.
In a block plane the blade is bevel up, but for the micro amount of cutting
edge sticking out the mouth, don't bother with the hollow grind. One fellow
in the woodshop I attend told me he likes the hollow grind because he thinks
it "adds to the quality of the sharpness"... no. The hollow grind merely
removes material from behind the cutting edge, easier to nick, it's weaker.
I do not use a grinder, don't own one. If I were to choose one it would be
the type where the wheel is lying flat, not standing up, and definitely water
washed while working, unlike the Veritas machine. The Tormek, IMHO,
is for lathe turners tools.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
"Reynaud" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> Re Dave: I have just started to build canoes and kayaks and have to
> fair out the ribs and forms and up until now I've always used power
> tools. I find hand tools do an neater job when close to finishing also
> control is more precise. I am quite experienced in epoxy and
> fiberglass but woodwork is fairly new to me. I see planes advertised
> for anywhere from $200. to $2000. but they are out of my league. I was
> wondering if there are still planes below the $100. that would do the
> job?
>
> Rey
>
Rey, you need to visit, at least in cyberspace, some of our oft-resident
plane specialists.
www.knight-toolworks.com
www.hocktools.com/
www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=12913
www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1&p=41182
I have products from all of the above, and more, but no financial
interest, yadda yadda.
There are excellent values represented here, from the chinese-style pull
planes at the Japan Woodworker (and elsewhere), to the Hock kits, to the
neat finished planes from Knight and Lee Valley, at the higher end.
Scrapers, spokeshaves and drawknives should be part of your education,
too. Simple tools all, and need not be kept under glass to perform your
required duties.
Almost any time it gets down to the final shaping, it feels closer to
the work to finish with a hand tool. Sometimes earlier as well.
Patriarch
>SNIP<
> Scary sharpening, or "The Scary Sharp Method" is one way that is highly
> effective and cheaper. The others are oil stones, from India stones
(aluminum
> oxide) to natural Arkansas stones, and water stones. A honing guide is
also
> needed.
>
> Find thick glass at a junk shop. Buy 5 grades of aluminum oxide or silicon
> carbide waterproof papers, 100, 220, 400, 800, 1200.
>SNIP<
Alex, I had always been told that the best edge for a plane is hollow
ground as from using a wheel. That way the chip is relieved of friction as
it rolls away from the iron. THe only addition is a 10* back angle. Is
this not right?
TIA!
> Re Dave: I have just started to build canoes and kayaks and have to fair out
> the ribs and forms and up until now I've always used power tools. I find hand tools do an neater job when close to finishing also
> control is more precise. I am quite experienced in epoxy and fiberglass but woodwork is fairly new to me. I see planes advertised
> for anywhere from $200. to $2000. but they are out of my league. I was wondering if there are still planes below the $100. that
> would do the job?
>
> Rey
>
Nominal top quality new, with their own brand called Veritas:
http://www.leevalley.com/ made in Canada.
Many in this group love them, I have the low angle block plane. Other than
that, get used Stanleys and the other brands mentioned by Dave. Here is the
best source:
http://collectibles.listings.ebay.com/Tools_Carpentry-Woodworking_W0QQfromZR4QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQsacatZ13870QQsocmdZListingItemList
You will want to learn how to "tune" a used handplane, much of this is online,
do a search about it. An old top name handplane is a wonderful tool. Tuning
is a bit of a sweat indeed. You can also have a plane restored by Mike:
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mike_in_katy/PlaneWood/Default.htm
He did a great piece of work on my #8 Stanley.
You will also need to sharpen blades, and for which there are things to buy
depending upon the method you choose. Let's say, a VERY sharp blade is
imperative, and the cutting edge should be square to the sides of the blade.
Scary sharpening, or "The Scary Sharp Method" is one way that is highly
effective and cheaper. The others are oil stones, from India stones (aluminum
oxide) to natural Arkansas stones, and water stones. A honing guide is also
needed.
Find thick glass at a junk shop. Buy 5 grades of aluminum oxide or silicon
carbide waterproof papers, 100, 220, 400, 800, 1200. Buy a can of 3M super
77 and this honing guide, available everywhere online:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7523625007
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3114&refcode=06INOSMX
Tuning a plane is also a part of using the things needed for scary sharpening.
Or buy a new plane.
As for me, I have been learning for the last year or more, and learning much
from the tips, ideas and lessons given by the kind gents in this news group.
Stick with us, always read and ask questions here and good luck.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> Alex has given you some good links to check out. Depending on where you
> are, the local antizue stores may have just what you need for about
> $15-25 for the small to middle size planes and under $100 for the larger
> ones. WARNING this is a slippery slope. If you haven't looked there
> already, Jeff's website, http://www.amgron.clara.net/ is a wealth if
> information. I get all my planes out of antique store, flea markets,
> and yard sales. The ones I get for family are from Lee Valley. I enjoy
> making a runsty old thing sing again, but I don't ask friends or family
> to enjoy it.
>
> Dave in Fairfax
Thanks Dave, you seem to play is smart like I do, as frugal as all hell. But...
I think it's time I finally joined your family? Maybe a nice gal there I can
marry too? he he he he.. jez playinwiddya...
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/