dh

doug houseman

26/10/2003 11:24 AM

Best oil for the top of table saw - Newbie question?

Gentlepersons -

can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.

Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.


This topic has 15 replies

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Andy Dingley

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 7:49 PM

On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 08:41:21 -0800, Fly-by-Night CC
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Some folks like waxes as Nova said, I will often use boiled linseed oil.
>(If you read the can from the hardware store, it states that it is a
>metal protector and rust inhibitor.)

Well that's a load of rubbish then. Linseed oil is acidic, and gets
worse as it ages. Not the best thing to leave long-term on steel.

Read Bill Knight's research on de-acidifying linseed oil finishes if
you care about chapter and verse. He has studied this a lot, in
relation to his work on 18th century gunsmithing stains and finishes.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Nn

Nova

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 4:30 PM

doug houseman wrote:

> Gentlepersons -
>
> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
> Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

Use a paste wax such as Johnson's, Butchers', etc. Avoid automotive waxes
that may contain silicone.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 6:41 PM

In article <[email protected]>, "NorthStar" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I use car wax (Turtle Wax, Johnson's, etc) on my table saw deck. It works
>great.
>
This is a BAD idea. The silicone present in automobile waxes can interfere
with many wood finishes.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

mS

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 7:04 PM

doug houseman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Gentlepersons -
>
> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
> Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

Actally the experts are split on this issue:

Martha Stewart-extra virgin olive oil (in a lovely raffia bottle.)

Roy Underhill-rancid bear grease.

Norm Abrams-a generous layer of endosement contracts.

My friend "Lefty"-copious amounts of blood and shredded flesh (he only
tried it once with little positive results)

Galoots-Well, They don't rub anything they can't raise an etching on.

Me-I prefer newbie squeezin's ;^)

a

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 4:46 PM

In article <[email protected]>,
doug houseman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Gentlepersons -
>
>can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
>prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
>in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
>want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
>Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

The answer is a "non-silicone paste wax" -- Johnson's, Butchers,
Lundmark, are all in this category.

Then there are the high-priced treatments. I've never used 'em, so I
may not have names exactly right: Top Cote, Boeshield, SLIPIT


If you insist on an oil-type protectant, there's "Cosmoline". Keep some
kerosene on hand, though. You'll need it to remove the Cosmoline before
any use of the saw. And you'll have to apply a new treatment when you're
done. (I think waxing would be a *much* better approach. <grin>)


EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 4:58 PM


"doug houseman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gentlepersons -
>
> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
> Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

I get the best result from Top Kote. Sp[ray it on, wipe it off. I've had
better results with this than wax.
Ed

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

27/10/2003 11:18 AM


"Silvan" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> I'm dealing with an unheated shop too, and I've had lots of problems with
> rust in the past. I haven't tried Top Cote, Boeshield, etc. yet because
> I'm too lazy to figure out where to buy them, and too thrifty to buy them
> unless they're pretty cheap (which I gather they're not.)

Best price I found is Lee Valley. So far, I've had my can for a year and it
will last me a least one or two years more. That works out to less than 5
bucks a year and my tools are worth more than that.
Ed

Ba

B a r r y B u r k e J r .

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

27/10/2003 11:51 AM

On 26 Oct 2003 19:04:25 -0800, [email protected] (Sparky)
wrote:

>Martha Stewart-extra virgin olive oil (in a lovely raffia bottle.)

Martha would put nothing on the saw. "Juan", her gardener would
apply it while Martha berated him off camera. She would only use the
brand that she had a tip on from the CEO of the olive oil importer.

>Norm Abrams-a generous layer of endosement contracts.

Norm's protectant would come from a yellow / black / red can that
looked suspiciously like a Minwax can, but with tape over the label.

Bruce Johnson would pour motor oil all over it.


Barry

Pj

"P©WÉ®T©©LMAN ²ºº3"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 1:59 PM


"doug houseman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gentlepersons -
>
> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
> Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

Top kote's definitely the best...spray lightly then gently buff, also great
to stop sap residue buildup.

Jon
J.D.Power Tool Canada
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada

Sd

Silvan

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

27/10/2003 12:17 AM

doug houseman wrote:

> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I

I'm dealing with an unheated shop too, and I've had lots of problems with
rust in the past. I haven't tried Top Cote, Boeshield, etc. yet because
I'm too lazy to figure out where to buy them, and too thrifty to buy them
unless they're pretty cheap (which I gather they're not.)

In answer to some of my own recent rust queries, someone (I forget who,
sorry whoever you are... :) suggested something different. It is what I
now suggest to you:

Get a fan. Leave it running on low, keeping the air in your shop moving
around. Helps if you have a leaky shop like I do, and you can move some
air through.

The biggest cause of rust in the shop is cool metal causing moisture to
condense out of the air. Tools "sweat" in the dark of night, and you wake
up the next morning to find new rust on your freshly polished blurfl.

I've been experimenting with a fan for a few weeks now, and it *really*
seems to help. I'm still waxing my most important things regularly, but
I've been leaving a few lesser tools in an unwaxed state. I have a cheap
chisel that has been sitting out in the open unprotected for at least two
weeks, and if there are any rust blooms on it, they're microscopic.

I do worry what will happen when this cheap box fan decides to stop turning.
I don't really like leaving something running when I'm not around to
monitor it, but whether I like doing it or not, it really does seem to do
the trick.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Tt

Trent©

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 7:32 PM

On Sun, 26 Oct 2003 09:47:15 -0900, "NorthStar"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I didn't know that. Thanks.

Neither did anybody else! lol


Have a nice week...

Trent

Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!

FC

Fly-by-Night CC

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 8:41 AM

In article <[email protected]>,
doug houseman <[email protected]> wrote:

> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.

Some folks like waxes as Nova said, I will often use boiled linseed oil.
(If you read the can from the hardware store, it states that it is a
metal protector and rust inhibitor.)

Honestly, I use either oil or wax depending on my mood. Sometimes I use
linseed with varnish mixed in - leftover from wood finishing.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>

NN

"NorthStar"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 9:02 AM

I use car wax (Turtle Wax, Johnson's, etc) on my table saw deck. It works
great.

--
NorthStar

Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.

Spam protected -- Remove _NadaSpam_ to e-mail

"doug houseman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gentlepersons -
>
> can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
>
> Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.

NN

"NorthStar"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 9:47 AM

I didn't know that. Thanks.

--
NorthStar

Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.

Spam protected -- Remove _NadaSpam_ to e-mail

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "NorthStar"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >I use car wax (Turtle Wax, Johnson's, etc) on my table saw deck. It
works
> >great.
> >
> This is a BAD idea. The silicone present in automobile waxes can interfere
> with many wood finishes.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

TT

"Tom"

in reply to doug houseman on 26/10/2003 11:24 AM

26/10/2003 6:51 PM


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> doug houseman <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >Gentlepersons -
> >
> >can anyone recommend a good oil to use on the top of a table saw to
> >prevent rust from forming. I use the saw about 8 hours a month, normally
> >in one long working session. Otherwise it sits in my unheated shop. I
> >want an oil that will not stain the wood...but will protect the top.
> >
> >Recommendations from this learned group would be appreciated.
>
> The answer is a "non-silicone paste wax" -- Johnson's, Butchers,
> Lundmark, are all in this category.
>
> Then there are the high-priced treatments. I've never used 'em, so I
> may not have names exactly right: Top Cote, Boeshield, SLIPIT
>
>
> If you insist on an oil-type protectant, there's "Cosmoline". Keep some
> kerosene on hand, though. You'll need it to remove the Cosmoline before
> any use of the saw. And you'll have to apply a new treatment when you're
> done. (I think waxing would be a *much* better approach. <grin>)
>
>

40 years ago I had a part time job after school removing the "Cosmoline"
from WWII surplus tap cutting machines for a small machine shop....UGH


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