Leon is right. There are several types of MDF available from your
local supplier, the most common being the faced variety which gives it
a more polished and harder appearance on the front and back. This is
from the way the cheap stuff is manufactured.
By the time you are cutting just below the factory surface of your
piece, you will be cutting into a substance that will be very powdery
and will not clear your machine as a cutting or chip. The powdered
material and its embedded resins will eat your blades in no time.
Worse, you would probably hate the junk left behind after planing.
(DAMHIKT). MDF is cheap, go buy the 1/2".
Robert
Thanks guys, good advice.
Joe
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Leon is right. There are several types of MDF available from your
> local supplier, the most common being the faced variety which gives it
> a more polished and harder appearance on the front and back. This is
> from the way the cheap stuff is manufactured.
>
> By the time you are cutting just below the factory surface of your
> piece, you will be cutting into a substance that will be very powdery
> and will not clear your machine as a cutting or chip. The powdered
> material and its embedded resins will eat your blades in no time.
>
> Worse, you would probably hate the junk left behind after planing.
> (DAMHIKT). MDF is cheap, go buy the 1/2".
>
> Robert
>
"Joe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> I've a ton of 3/4" termite barf and I was wondering if anyone has
> thicknessed this on their planer. I'm assuming the final results are
> fine, based on how well the stuff routes, but how hard is MDF on planer
> blades? If it's an 'instant dull', I may just go pick up some 1/2" .
>3
MDF is real hard on everything including you planer blades.
Keep in mind that as you plane down that the inner section of MDF is more
coarse and will not be as smooth as the outer surfaces. A finer material is
used on the outer surfaces.