This rendering shows what I want to do:
http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
way to do it with nothing showing at all?
I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
On Sat, 9 Aug 2014 21:49:03 +0000 (UTC), falk@rahul.net (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:
>This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
>http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
>Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
>recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
>shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
>way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
>I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
... I'm not sure of your requirements, but there are
blind shelf supports available ..
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649
John T.
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On 8/12/2014 1:27 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> Thanks for everybody's suggestions; there were a whole
> bunch of ideas I never thought of.
>
> I think I'm going to go with the biscuit joints. I just
> need to figure out how to rout the stopped dado in the
> ends of the boards.
You might want to consider using "splines" of the same width/cut to
proper length, instead of actual biscuits. Same idea, just as easy, but
arguably a bit stronger for shelf use. You can also adjust the thickness
of the splines easier in order to get a good tight fit so your shelves
wont have any play.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 8/9/2014 5:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
> I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
>
As others have said, pretty easy. Then there is the dovetail method :-)
rather than use a dado, put a dovetail in, decorative and requires no
gluing, just mount the wood sides in, and slide your shelf in for a
locked in shelf that even if it is carrying weight will not pull out of
the socket.
--
Jeff
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves.
If I understand you question ... You want to place shelves into a recessed opening that is essentially a box.
This can be easily done with a biscuit cutter. Cut slots for the biscuits on each side at the desired height. Then plunge a long slot from the back of the shelves -- stopping before cutting the front. Then you can slide the shelves onto the biscuits.
On 8/9/2014 5:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
> I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
>
Put pocket holes in the ends of the shelves and screw them in.
"Edward A. Falk" wrote in message news:ls650f$9f0$1@blue-new.rahul.net...
This rendering shows what I want to do:
http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
Rout stopped rabbets on the ends of the shelves, then mount cleats that fit
the rabbets on the sides of the carcass, and slide the shelves in over the
cleats. If the sides of the carcass are parallel and square to the opening,
they'll slide right on and leave no trace they're there.
Tom
On 8/9/2014 5:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
> I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
>
There are two ways to do this.
The first is cut the endpieces so that their length is the distance
between the shelves. add the endpieces, place the shelf, the the next
endpiece shelf, etc.
The second way would be to dado the the endpieces, the dados being the
width of the shelf, and the would be space to the distance you want
between the shelves.
The dados would have to be deep enough to hold the load you plan on
placing on the shelves.
The stop dados could be cut so that the dado could not be seen.
On 8/9/14, 3:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
> I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
>
Something like this:
http://www.superiorhardwaresupply.com/concealed_shelf_supports.aspx
(I realize you don't need the adjust ability)
You could also add a narrow strip of wood with a stopped dado in the
shelf ends to achieve the same function, but the wire would leave the
most material in the shelf which would be stronger.
-BR
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On Sat, 09 Aug 2014 21:49:03 +0000, Edward A. Falk wrote:
> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>
> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>
Ian Kirby did this decades ago with torsion boxes. If you're a FWW
subscriber you can still find the article online.
In article <ls66gv$st9$1@dont-email.me>,
tdacon <Tom-NOSPAM-@-REALLY-dacons.com> wrote:
>
>
>Rout stopped rabbets on the ends of the shelves, then mount cleats that fit
>the rabbets on the sides of the carcass, and slide the shelves in over the
>cleats. If the sides of the carcass are parallel and square to the opening,
>they'll slide right on and leave no trace they're there.
That's pretty much exactly what I had in mind. I worry that my
skills aren't quite up to the task.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <ls66h2$rsk$1@speranza.aioe.org>,
Keith Nuttle <Keith_Nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>On 8/9/2014 5:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>
>There are two ways to do this.
>
>The first is cut the endpieces so that their length is the distance
>between the shelves. add the endpieces, place the shelf, the the next
>endpiece shelf, etc.
>
>The second way would be to dado the the endpieces, the dados being the
>width of the shelf, and the would be space to the distance you want
>between the shelves.
Those are both possibilities, but the end pieces are already installed.
I might be able to rip them back out again (my contractor installed
them, so I don't know exactly how they're installed.)
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <0gadu95edn3v6lid2dvshtlsoqc5be7d6p@4ax.com>,
<hubops@ccanoemail.com> wrote:
>
>
> ... I'm not sure of your requirements, but there are
> blind shelf supports available ..
>
>http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649
Oh, those are very nice. My shelves are only 3/4" thick, but maybe
I could make new ones.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <e4466efa-a35e-4b08-b101-c47d84bb31bd@googlegroups.com>,
joeljcarver@aol.com <joeljcarver@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
>If I understand you question ... You want to place shelves into a recessed opening that
>is essentially a box.
>
>This can be easily done with a biscuit cutter. Cut slots for the biscuits on each side
>at the desired height. Then plunge a long slot from the back of the shelves -- stopping
>before cutting the front. Then you can slide the shelves onto the biscuits.
Ooooh, I like that one.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <ebNFv.200185$3Y7.91700@fx12.iad>,
Larry Kraus <lkraus@att.net> wrote:
>On 8/9/2014 5:49 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
>> This rendering shows what I want to do:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/tohsJ7s.png
>>
>> Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable. The
>> recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of adding some
>> shelves. Current plan is 45-degree cleats at the ends, but is there a
>> way to do it with nothing showing at all?
>>
>> I realize the answer is probably "no", but I thought I'd ask.
>>
>
>Put pocket holes in the ends of the shelves and screw them in.
That was actually plan 'A', but I didn't want to leave visible
holes. One possibility was to add plugs to the pocket holes
(Kreg makes them), but I'd never be able to get the wood to really
match.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
In article <lsbsij$s2l$5@blue-new.rahul.net>,
Edward A. Falk <falk@rahul.net> wrote:
>In article <ebNFv.200185$3Y7.91700@fx12.iad>,
>Larry Kraus <lkraus@att.net> wrote:
>>
>>Put pocket holes in the ends of the shelves and screw them in.
>
>That was actually plan 'A', but I didn't want to leave visible
>holes. One possibility was to add plugs to the pocket holes
>(Kreg makes them), but I'd never be able to get the wood to really
>match.
Well, my contractor went ahead and did it this way while I was
at work, so pocket screws and plugs it is, I guess.
Thanks for your ideas everybody.
--
-Ed Falk, falk@despams.r.us.com
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
joeljcarver@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Basically it's built-in shelves. They don't need to be adjustable.
> > The recess has already been built, so now it's just a matter of
> > adding some shelves.
>
> If I understand you question ... You want to place shelves into a
> recessed opening that is essentially a box.
>
> This can be easily done with a biscuit cutter. Cut slots for the
> biscuits on each side at the desired height. Then plunge a long slot
> from the back of the shelves -- stopping before cutting the front.
> Then you can slide the shelves onto the biscuits.
Making sure the groove is ofset will give a stronger support