I took a look through Old Forge Hardware this past weekend and picked
up a piece of hide to line my vise jaws. The tag says "7/8 oz.
natural V-Cut Shoulder", and this stuff is about 1/8" thick and pretty
stiff. It's exactly what I was thinking of, but hadn't gotten around
to looking for it. It's amazing what you can find in that store -
it's worth stopping in if you're in the area.
IAE, I'm wondering what adhesive to use to laminate them to the hard
maple jaws. My inital thought was to use contact cement, in case I
ever wanted to remove it. But I don't want to have to worry about
creep, so I'm thinking of something a little stronger. Do you think
that plain old yellow glue would hold? I did a quick google and saw a
recommendation for wallpaper glue, but that was to hold desktop
leather. Maybe it would work for this too...
My plan is to leave the leather a little big and then trim it flush
with a router after it's glued. Sound reasonable?
Thanks.
JP
On Oct 16, 7:39 pm, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> I took a look through Old Forge Hardware this past weekend and picked
> up a piece of hide to line my vise jaws. The tag says "7/8 oz.
> natural V-Cut Shoulder", and this stuff is about 1/8" thick and pretty
> stiff. It's exactly what I was thinking of, but hadn't gotten around
> to looking for it. It's amazing what you can find in that store -
> it's worth stopping in if you're in the area.
>
> IAE, I'm wondering what adhesive to use to laminate them to the hard
> maple jaws. My inital thought was to use contact cement, in case I
> ever wanted to remove it. But I don't want to have to worry about
> creep, so I'm thinking of something a little stronger. Do you think
> that plain old yellow glue would hold? I did a quick google and saw a
> recommendation for wallpaper glue, but that was to hold desktop
> leather. Maybe it would work for this too...
I'm not sure what would be creeping since there's really no load other
than every once in a while a huge force pushes it into closer
contact. Leather workers commonly use Barge Cement -
http://www.filmtools.com/bargecement.html
> My plan is to leave the leather a little big and then trim it flush
> with a router after it's glued. Sound reasonable?
Trim it with a razor knife. Save the art work for the work pieces!
R
On 17 Oct, 02:38, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
> Obviously hide glue.
Actually hide doesn't work for this - too brittle. Sticks well
though. A better choice is rabbit skin glue - just like hide glue,
but more flexible. It's used in book-binding.
I'd use contact cement though. Evo-stik 528, works fine for all such
things, doesn't creep either.
If I had PU glue (a PU solvent, like Barge Cement, Shoe Goo etc., not
the isocyanates) handy, then I might use that. However PU is hard to
obtain and very difficult to store. Every time I want some I find mine
has set solid.
On Oct 17, 8:49 am, "Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I glued my leather strop to a piece of wood ten years ago using yellow glue
> and it has worked out very well.
> Dave
Did same, 25 years ago. Hasn't crept, still pulls a razor
edge on my bench knives.
On Oct 16, 7:39 pm, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
> I took a look through Old Forge Hardware this past weekend and picked
> up a piece of hide to line my vise jaws. The tag says "7/8 oz.
> natural V-Cut Shoulder", and this stuff is about 1/8" thick and pretty
> stiff. It's exactly what I was thinking of, but hadn't gotten around
> to looking for it. It's amazing what you can find in that store -
> it's worth stopping in if you're in the area.
Interesting - I've driven by several times but never stopped. I'll
have to check it out sometime!
If you're near Syracuse and you need more leather, there's a Tandy
Leather store on S. Salina st. I've been looking for leather for a
strop or wheel for sharpening, and Tandy's name keeps coming up as a
popular online retailer, and they apparently have scraps appropriate
for this type of thing. I just found out about this local store, so I
haven't been there yet, but it sounds like it has potential. I should
pick up some thick scraps for vise jaws too - thanks for the idea.
Andy
Tue, Oct 16, 2007, 4:39pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (Jay=A0Pique)
doth wonder:
I took a look through Old Forge Hardware this past weekend and picked up
a piece of hide to line my vise jaws. <snip> I'm wondering what adhesive
to use <snip>
Obviously hide glue.
I'da just cut up an old pair of boots. You could just overlap the
piece, and tack to the edges of the wood. What would Roy do?
JOAT
"I'm an Igor, thur. We don't athk quethtionth."
"Really? Why not?"
"I don't know, thur. I didn't athk."
Jay Pique wrote:
> I took a look through Old Forge Hardware this past weekend and picked
> up a piece of hide to line my vise jaws. The tag says "7/8 oz.
> natural V-Cut Shoulder", and this stuff is about 1/8" thick and pretty
> stiff. It's exactly what I was thinking of, but hadn't gotten around
> to looking for it. It's amazing what you can find in that store -
> it's worth stopping in if you're in the area.
>
> IAE, I'm wondering what adhesive to use to laminate them to the hard
> maple jaws. My inital thought was to use contact cement, in case I
> ever wanted to remove it. But I don't want to have to worry about
> creep, so I'm thinking of something a little stronger. Do you think
> that plain old yellow glue would hold? I did a quick google and saw a
> recommendation for wallpaper glue, but that was to hold desktop
> leather. Maybe it would work for this too...
>
> My plan is to leave the leather a little big and then trim it flush
> with a router after it's glued. Sound reasonable?
>
> Thanks.
> JP
>
Go to your local shoe repair and have them fill up a 4 oz. jar of the glue they
use to resole shoes with. Shouldn't cost more than about a buck, and it will
hold the leather to the wood. You'll need to "rough up" both surfaces, then
apply like you would contact cement.