For years I have been using a jig to straighten my boards on my table
saw, it does a much better and faster job than my jointer. The Walnut Desk
that I recently built and posted pictures of had 2, 15" x 60" panels made up
of 3 boards each. The desk top 31" x 60" was made from 6 glued up boards.
All edges were prepared on the TS using the jig and a 40 tooth Forrest WWII.
The joints for the most part are undetectable unless the grain was
significantly different or unless you looked at the ends of the panels.
The current Woodsmith magazine, No. 178, has a picture of a jig that
uses the exact same technique and method that I use but their jog is a bit
more refined. I highly recommend checking out this issue if you are
interested in making straight glue line joints whether you have a jointer or
not.
"Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 22 Jul 2008 07:43:03 -0500, "Leon"
>>
>
> Leon, I was working from the comment that the OP wanted to
> "straighten" the wood. I have no issues with using the TS to joint a
> rough or uneven edge on a plank, indeed, that is my preference. If
> the wood is curved, however, I will usually pass on it or try to
> salvage a shorter piece.
Well Ed, I am the OP and I would sure like to find out where you get S2S
lumber that is straight, does not come in random widths, and is not narrower
on one end.
Perhaps you are buying S3S or S2S ripped straight on 1 edge.
"Leon" wrote:
> Frank, you might find that if you make the jig/sled long enough you
> may prefer to use it over the jointer. I get joints that close up
> perfectly with no clamps.
Adding "Swing's" technique of end for end cuts from board to board
produces complimentary cut faces that cancel any blade angle error,
thus insuring a tight cut face fit.
Lew
On Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:42:05 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
>> Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
>> supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
>> challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
>>
>> Think I'll look into it.
>
>Mine isn't refined at all - but it was easy to build and has worked for
>me. Photos at the link below.
What the heck - you got a cherry outfeed table?!?!
Renata
Frank Boettcher wrote:
> Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
> supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
> challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
>
> Think I'll look into it.
Mine isn't refined at all - but it was easy to build and has worked for
me. Photos at the link below.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/BoardSled/
Renata wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:42:05 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Frank Boettcher wrote:
>>
>>> Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
>>> supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
>>> challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
>>>
>>> Think I'll look into it.
>> Mine isn't refined at all - but it was easy to build and has worked for
>> me. Photos at the link below.
>
> What the heck - you got a cherry outfeed table?!?!
In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
(But I do like the way you think <g>)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
krw wrote:
> Unrelated question: It looks like your shop is in a garage?
Sort of - it's in an aircraft hanger.
> Is there a problem with rust?
It's been unusually humid this year (not far from my shop they were
measuring the humidity in feet, so I guess I shouldn't complain) - and
I've seen even more rusting than usual.
> I'm moving to Alabama next week and finally will buy a table/cabinet
> saw (we're done moving for a long while). Since basements are rare
> where there isn't ground frost I was wondering what to do with cast
> iron tools.
The tools that are most used seem to be those that show the rust least.
My suggestion would be to maximize tool usage. :-)
> BTW, a lot of good hints. Thanks.
Thank /you/ for the feedback!
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/
Hammer Hands wrote:
> I love how you used pocket screws on an item that most of us consider
> shop furniture :) By the way, nice outfeed table! You have given me some
> great ideas on attaching my future one to the back of my unisaw.
I need for someone to chime in here. I know I've seen a drop-leaf
outfeed table on at least one one of the regulars' web sites - and I
think Steve needs to take a look.
> As always, thanks for contributing.
It's my way of trying to get even for all the help that I've received,
and I'm still pretty far behind...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>> Morris Dovey wrote:
>>
>> > In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
>>
>> You can see just how cheap by following the link below and looking at
>> the 4th photo from the bottom of the page...
>
> Unrelated question: It looks like your shop is in a garage? Is
> there a problem with rust? I'm moving to Alabama next week and
> finally will buy a table/cabinet saw (we're done moving for a long
> while). Since basements are rare where there isn't ground frost I
> was wondering what to do with cast iron tools.
>
> BTW, a lot of good hints. Thanks.
>
> --
> Keith
I'll chime in here ifin you don't mind. I live in Houston and rust is
pretty much a nonissue unless I am careless. Humidity on a dry day is 50%
and 75-80% is the norm. Humidity is not a problem, it is when the humidity
condenses on the tools surface that you have a problem I actually have more
of a problem with sweat dripping on the tool surface. If your tool is cool
and exposed to humid warm air you will have a problem. If you air condition
the room and warm humid air is introduced you will have a problem. As long
as the equipment remains the same temperature as the humid air around it you
should not have a problems with condensation and rust. For those times
where you might not have the perfect environment apply 3-4 heavy coats of
TopCote initially to the cast iron surfaces and buff off. Follow up with
and extra coat every 6 months or so.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry, but my take on reactionary wood is -- don't use it. I have a
>> solid oak diningroom table that was fine for many years, but one
>> particularly dry summer, it split along the glue joint. If you joint
>> a piece of reactionary wood and use it in an application that has
>> significantly different humidity, it is going to warp or curl unless
>> you are using it in a application that uses short pieces.
>>
>> Ed
>> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
>
> I'm a little confused here Ed. What does reactionary wood have to do
> with straightening S2S on a TS instead of on a jointer?
And what is 'reactionary' wood anyway? Sort of right wing ultra conservative
wood? I wouldn't touch the stuff either.
Tim W
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>
>
> Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
> supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
> challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
>
> Think I'll look into it.
>
> Frank
Frank, you might find that if you make the jig/sled long enough you may
prefer to use it over the jointer. I get joints that close up perfectly
with no clamps.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Morris Dovey wrote:
>
> > In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
>
> You can see just how cheap by following the link below and looking at
> the 4th photo from the bottom of the page...
Unrelated question: It looks like your shop is in a garage? Is
there a problem with rust? I'm moving to Alabama next week and
finally will buy a table/cabinet saw (we're done moving for a long
while). Since basements are rare where there isn't ground frost I
was wondering what to do with cast iron tools.
BTW, a lot of good hints. Thanks.
--
Keith
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > [email protected] says...
> >> Morris Dovey wrote:
> >>
> >> > In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
> >>
> >> You can see just how cheap by following the link below and looking at
> >> the 4th photo from the bottom of the page...
> >
> > Unrelated question: It looks like your shop is in a garage? Is
> > there a problem with rust? I'm moving to Alabama next week and
> > finally will buy a table/cabinet saw (we're done moving for a long
> > while). Since basements are rare where there isn't ground frost I
> > was wondering what to do with cast iron tools.
> >
> > BTW, a lot of good hints. Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Keith
>
> I'll chime in here ifin you don't mind.
Certainly not. (sorry for not gettin back sooner - packing for the
move and just finishing up at work here).
> I live in Houston and rust is pretty much a nonissue unless I am careless.
Careless? Like spill a drink, careless?
> Humidity on a dry day is 50%
> and 75-80% is the norm. Humidity is not a problem, it is when the humidity
> condenses on the tools surface that you have a problem I actually have more
> of a problem with sweat dripping on the tool surface. If your tool is cool
> and exposed to humid warm air you will have a problem. If you air condition
> the room and warm humid air is introduced you will have a problem. As long
> as the equipment remains the same temperature as the humid air around it you
> should not have a problems with condensation and rust.
Yes, but in my basement (in Vermont) I could more easily control the
environment with a dehumidifier. Heat was never a problem because
the humidity in the Winter was shockingly low.
> For those times
> where you might not have the perfect environment apply 3-4 heavy coats of
> TopCote initially to the cast iron surfaces and buff off. Follow up with
> and extra coat every 6 months or so.
This stuff??
http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/lubricants.htm
I would have thought a wax, or perhaps a teflon based "wax" like the
stuff used on boat bottoms.
Thanks. Now to figure out which saw. ;-)
--
Keith
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
.
>
> Certainly not. (sorry for not gettin back sooner - packing for the
> move and just finishing up at work here).
>
>> I live in Houston and rust is pretty much a nonissue unless I am
>> careless.
>
> Careless? Like spill a drink, careless?
Yes that, or sweat on the iron and not wiping it off.
> Yes, but in my basement (in Vermont) I could more easily control the
> environment with a dehumidifier. Heat was never a problem because
> the humidity in the Winter was shockingly low.
I think regardless of the humidity level, high or low, it will not be a
problem unless the temperature of the surrounding air suddenly becomes
warmer than the iron. Even with a dehumidifiier, if a glass of ice water
sweats during temperature changes, so will the iron if it is colder than the
surrounding air, and it takes very little moisture to start the rust. This
can be more of a problem in an air conditioned shop for cooling purposes if
it is suddenly exposed to an opened door letting in warm out side air.
>
>> For those times
>> where you might not have the perfect environment apply 3-4 heavy coats of
>> TopCote initially to the cast iron surfaces and buff off. Follow up with
>> and extra coat every 6 months or so.
>
> This stuff??
>
> http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/lubricants.htm
Thats the stuff. I recomend several coats the first time to insure complete
coverage. Another product that does well are Empire products. They were
the original makers of TopCote.
>
> I would have thought a wax, or perhaps a teflon based "wax" like the
> stuff used on boat bottoms.
You want to be very careful with products that have non stick lubricants in
them such as silicone and or possibly Teflon. If this products gets on your
wood project and is undetected it can cause a lot of head aches with
finishes. Remember, nothing sticks to Teflon, including your finish.
> Thanks. Now to figure out which saw. ;-)
The hard part.
Varnish makes pressure treated pine look good at a distance.
I have seen some luan panels that looked pretty nice and
when you add "any" finish, it looks better.
It "is" mahogany.
Morris Dovey wrote:
> Morris Dovey wrote:
>
>> In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
>
> You can see just how cheap by following the link below and looking at
> the 4th photo from the bottom of the page...
>
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
>> Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
>> supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
>> challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
>>
>> Think I'll look into it.
>
> Mine isn't refined at all - but it was easy to build and has worked for
> me. Photos at the link below.
Mine is very much like yours Morris, I have the 2 toggle clamps mounted on 2
small wood blocks. I screw the 2 wood blocks down where ever needed. I do
however use a 8' long sled that is about 11" wide.
Morris Dovey <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> What the heck - you got a cherry outfeed table?!?!
>
> In my dreams! It's _really_ cheap luan-faced 3/4" plywood.
>
> (But I do like the way you think <g>)
>
Morris,
I love how you used pocket screws on an item that most of us consider
shop furniture :) By the way, nice outfeed table! You have given me some
great ideas on attaching my future one to the back of my unisaw.
As always, thanks for contributing.
Steve
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Adding "Swing's" technique of end for end cuts from board to board
> produces complimentary cut faces that cancel any blade angle error,
> thus insuring a tight cut face fit.
I've always numbered each edge to be jointed 1 to whatever and when
jointing even #'s are face against the fence (in), odd #'s are face away
from the fence (out). This way your joint is guaranteed to be a perfect
90 degrees, even if the fence isn't a perfect 90. In fact, you get a
bigger gluing surface if the fence is not a perfect 90. With a table
saw you would do the same thing, alternating face up and face down,
eliminating any worry about your blade being a perfect 90 to the table.
Also, like Leon, I've found little need to joint an edge to prepare for
glue up. I discovered once when making something unimportant and was
using a 12 tooth blade, and glued it up rough as hell and it was close
to perfect. I still use the jointer because it is there and handy, but
would have zero problems jointing right from the table saw with a 40 tooth.
--
Jack
http://jbstein.com
On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> For years I have been using a jig to straighten my boards on my table
>saw, it does a much better and faster job than my jointer. The Walnut Desk
>that I recently built and posted pictures of had 2, 15" x 60" panels made up
>of 3 boards each. The desk top 31" x 60" was made from 6 glued up boards.
>All edges were prepared on the TS using the jig and a 40 tooth Forrest WWII.
>The joints for the most part are undetectable unless the grain was
>significantly different or unless you looked at the ends of the panels.
>
> The current Woodsmith magazine, No. 178, has a picture of a jig that
>uses the exact same technique and method that I use but their jog is a bit
>more refined. I highly recommend checking out this issue if you are
>interested in making straight glue line joints whether you have a jointer or
>not.
>
Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
Think I'll look into it.
Frank
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This stuff??
>
> http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/lubricants.htm
BTY, Much cheaper here
http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/ProductID/SATC11
On Tue, 22 Jul 2008 07:43:03 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry, but my take on reactionary wood is -- don't use it. I have a
>> solid oak diningroom table that was fine for many years, but one
>> particularly dry summer, it split along the glue joint. If you joint
>> a piece of reactionary wood and use it in an application that has
>> significantly different humidity, it is going to warp or curl unless
>> you are using it in a application that uses short pieces.
>>
>> Ed
>> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
>
>I'm a little confused here Ed. What does reactionary wood have to do with
>straightening S2S on a TS instead of on a jointer?
>
Leon, I was working from the comment that the OP wanted to
"straighten" the wood. I have no issues with using the TS to joint a
rough or uneven edge on a plank, indeed, that is my preference. If
the wood is curved, however, I will usually pass on it or try to
salvage a shorter piece.
Ed
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Leon wrote:
>
>
> Reactionary wood is wood that was improperly dried and or wood that may have
> been under stress while the tree was growing. Typically wood taken from
> limbs that grow closer to horizontal will have more internal stress. This
> becomes a problem when sawing/ripping. As you rip the board it will tend to
> want to close back up and pinch the blade or it can bow open, either way you
> end up with a board that is no longer straight.
So, wood that bends before you use it is proactive wood? <G>
On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> For years I have been using a jig to straighten my boards on my table
>saw, it does a much better and faster job than my jointer. The Walnut Desk
>that I recently built and posted pictures of had 2, 15" x 60" panels made up
>of 3 boards each. The desk top 31" x 60" was made from 6 glued up boards.
>All edges were prepared on the TS using the jig and a 40 tooth Forrest WWII.
>The joints for the most part are undetectable unless the grain was
>significantly different or unless you looked at the ends of the panels.
>
> The current Woodsmith magazine, No. 178, has a picture of a jig that
>uses the exact same technique and method that I use but their jog is a bit
>more refined. I highly recommend checking out this issue if you are
>interested in making straight glue line joints whether you have a jointer or
>not.
>
Sorry, but my take on reactionary wood is -- don't use it. I have a
solid oak diningroom table that was fine for many years, but one
particularly dry summer, it split along the glue joint. If you joint
a piece of reactionary wood and use it in an application that has
significantly different humidity, it is going to warp or curl unless
you are using it in a application that uses short pieces.
Ed
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
"Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:10:32 -0500, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Sorry, but my take on reactionary wood is -- don't use it. I have a
> solid oak diningroom table that was fine for many years, but one
> particularly dry summer, it split along the glue joint. If you joint
> a piece of reactionary wood and use it in an application that has
> significantly different humidity, it is going to warp or curl unless
> you are using it in a application that uses short pieces.
>
> Ed
> ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
I'm a little confused here Ed. What does reactionary wood have to do with
straightening S2S on a TS instead of on a jointer?
"Tim W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> And what is 'reactionary' wood anyway? Sort of right wing ultra
> conservative wood? I wouldn't touch the stuff either.
>
Reactionary wood is wood that was improperly dried and or wood that may have
been under stress while the tree was growing. Typically wood taken from
limbs that grow closer to horizontal will have more internal stress. This
becomes a problem when sawing/ripping. As you rip the board it will tend to
want to close back up and pinch the blade or it can bow open, either way you
end up with a board that is no longer straight.