Hi,
I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
back of the dresser, but that is it.
For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
help that you can offer.
Here's a little more info if you care to read:
I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
too.
For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
nice to keep staining as an option.
FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
Thank you for your time!
-- Kent Iler
----------------------------------------------------------------------
[email protected]
Please CC: all replies via e-mail
Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
Thx for the advice!
--Kent
"Bob Bowles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Check library for Tage Frid Teaches Woodworkung as it has a number of
> joints and how they're made. Poplar is easy to work and accepts paint
> well. Most woods wont accept stain once the pores have been sealed
> with finish.
>
> On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 20:34:32 GMT, "Kent P. Iler"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> >have them yet.
>
Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
strong joint will.
--Kent
[email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Kent,
>
> You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
> $20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
> wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.
>
> Three considerations:
>
> First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
> plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
> fun.
>
> Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
> in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
> difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
> problem.
>
> Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
> screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
> tend to want to lift the joining piece.
>
> "Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53>...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
> > built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
> > requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
> > decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
> >
> > I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> > We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> > When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> > for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> > including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
> > back of the dresser, but that is it.
> >
> > For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> > recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> > http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> > help that you can offer.
> >
> > Here's a little more info if you care to read:
> >
> > I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> > joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
> > best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> > recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
> > dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
> > supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> > have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
> > in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
> > will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
> > joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
> > start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
> >
> > I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
> > children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
> > of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
> > or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
> > I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
> > was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
> > too.
> >
> > For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
> > other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
> > nice to keep staining as an option.
> >
> > FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
> > document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
> > You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
> >
> > Thank you for your time!
> >
> > -- Kent Iler
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > [email protected]
> > Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> > Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
Any recommendations for jigs?
--Kent
[email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Good question. In my experience, if you are putting two pocket screws
> and some glue, this joint will never come un-done or loosen.
>
> A few points:
> Pocket screws come in two thread patterns coarse for soft woods and
> fine for harder woods. This is partly because of another feature, they
> are self threading and the coarse screws will break trying to drive
> into Oak, etc. So you only drill the pocket and the screw itself
> drills a into the joined piece. Finally, they are driven in with a
> square head socket drive, usually supplied with the purchase of the
> fixture. These allow for very good drilling grip. I've broken screws
> when I forgot to set my drill gun to the slip setting.
>
> You can drill these in with an electric drill but a screw gun with a
> strong slip clutch set to the highest tourqe is the best so you don't
> spin or break the screw.
>
> Pretty much all face frame kitchen cabinets are built with pocket
> screws now and they ain't fallin apart anytime soon.
>
>
> [email protected] (Kent P. Iler) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
> > use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
> > strong joint will.
> >
> > --Kent
> >
> > [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Kent,
> > >
> > > You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
> > > $20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
> > > wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.
> > >
> > > Three considerations:
> > >
> > > First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
> > > plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
> > > fun.
> > >
> > > Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
> > > in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
> > > difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
> > > screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
> > > tend to want to lift the joining piece.
> > >
> > > "Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53>...
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
> > > > built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
> > > > requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
> > > > decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
> > > >
> > > > I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> > > > We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> > > > When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> > > > for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> > > > including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
> > > > back of the dresser, but that is it.
> > > >
> > > > For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> > > > recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> > > > http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> > > > help that you can offer.
> > > >
> > > > Here's a little more info if you care to read:
> > > >
> > > > I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> > > > joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
> > > > best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> > > > recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
> > > > dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
> > > > supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> > > > have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
> > > > in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
> > > > will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
> > > > joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
> > > > start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
> > > >
> > > > I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
> > > > children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
> > > > of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
> > > > or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
> > > > I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
> > > > was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
> > > > too.
> > > >
> > > > For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
> > > > other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
> > > > nice to keep staining as an option.
> > > >
> > > > FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
> > > > document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
> > > > You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for your time!
> > > >
> > > > -- Kent Iler
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > [email protected]
> > > > Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> > > > Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
Thx!
--Kent
[email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Well, I did say $20-$30...
>
> The cheapest I could find was indeed $30 at Rockler
>
> http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=5985&objectgroup_id=421&catid=7&DID=6
>
> The more expensive fixtures have a toggle clamp but they are more like
> $60-$90 but do come with more screws, etc. The link I posted above
> comes with a jig and the drill bit and the stop collar so even though
> you have to clamp it with your own clamp it has everything you need.
>
> Just search on "pocket" at either Woodcraft or Rockler and you'll see
> all kinds of fixtures and even production machines. I can't wait until
> our new Castell two motor unit gets installed at my shop. ;^)
>
>
> [email protected] (Kent P. Iler) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Any recommendations for jigs?
> >
> > --Kent
> >
> > [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Good question. In my experience, if you are putting two pocket screws
> > > and some glue, this joint will never come un-done or loosen.
> > >
> > > A few points:
> > > Pocket screws come in two thread patterns coarse for soft woods and
> > > fine for harder woods. This is partly because of another feature, they
> > > are self threading and the coarse screws will break trying to drive
> > > into Oak, etc. So you only drill the pocket and the screw itself
> > > drills a into the joined piece. Finally, they are driven in with a
> > > square head socket drive, usually supplied with the purchase of the
> > > fixture. These allow for very good drilling grip. I've broken screws
> > > when I forgot to set my drill gun to the slip setting.
> > >
> > > You can drill these in with an electric drill but a screw gun with a
> > > strong slip clutch set to the highest tourqe is the best so you don't
> > > spin or break the screw.
> > >
> > > Pretty much all face frame kitchen cabinets are built with pocket
> > > screws now and they ain't fallin apart anytime soon.
> > >
> > >
> > > [email protected] (Kent P. Iler) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
> > > > use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
> > > > strong joint will.
> > > >
> > > > --Kent
> > > >
> > > > [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > > Kent,
> > > > >
> > > > > You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
> > > > > $20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
> > > > > wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.
> > > > >
> > > > > Three considerations:
> > > > >
> > > > > First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
> > > > > plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
> > > > > fun.
> > > > >
> > > > > Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
> > > > > in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
> > > > > difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
> > > > > problem.
> > > > >
> > > > > Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
> > > > > screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
> > > > > tend to want to lift the joining piece.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53>...
> > > > > > Hi,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
> > > > > > built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
> > > > > > requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
> > > > > > decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> > > > > > We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> > > > > > When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> > > > > > for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> > > > > > including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
> > > > > > back of the dresser, but that is it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> > > > > > recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> > > > > > http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> > > > > > help that you can offer.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Here's a little more info if you care to read:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> > > > > > joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
> > > > > > best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> > > > > > recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
> > > > > > dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
> > > > > > supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> > > > > > have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
> > > > > > in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
> > > > > > will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
> > > > > > joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
> > > > > > start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
> > > > > > children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
> > > > > > of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
> > > > > > or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
> > > > > > I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
> > > > > > was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
> > > > > > too.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
> > > > > > other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
> > > > > > nice to keep staining as an option.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
> > > > > > document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
> > > > > > You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you for your time!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -- Kent Iler
> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > > [email protected]
> > > > > > Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> > > > > > Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
Kent,
You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
$20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.
Three considerations:
First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
fun.
Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
problem.
Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
tend to want to lift the joining piece.
"Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53>...
> Hi,
>
> I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
> built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
> requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
> decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
>
> I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
> back of the dresser, but that is it.
>
> For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> help that you can offer.
>
> Here's a little more info if you care to read:
>
> I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
> best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
> dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
> supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
> in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
> will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
> joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
> start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
>
> I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
> children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
> of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
> or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
>
> Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
> I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
> was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
> too.
>
> For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
> other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
> nice to keep staining as an option.
>
> FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
> document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
> You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
>
> Thank you for your time!
>
> -- Kent Iler
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> [email protected]
> Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
Well, I did say $20-$30...
The cheapest I could find was indeed $30 at Rockler
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=5985&objectgroup_id=421&catid=7&DID=6
The more expensive fixtures have a toggle clamp but they are more like
$60-$90 but do come with more screws, etc. The link I posted above
comes with a jig and the drill bit and the stop collar so even though
you have to clamp it with your own clamp it has everything you need.
Just search on "pocket" at either Woodcraft or Rockler and you'll see
all kinds of fixtures and even production machines. I can't wait until
our new Castell two motor unit gets installed at my shop. ;^)
[email protected] (Kent P. Iler) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Any recommendations for jigs?
>
> --Kent
>
> [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Good question. In my experience, if you are putting two pocket screws
> > and some glue, this joint will never come un-done or loosen.
> >
> > A few points:
> > Pocket screws come in two thread patterns coarse for soft woods and
> > fine for harder woods. This is partly because of another feature, they
> > are self threading and the coarse screws will break trying to drive
> > into Oak, etc. So you only drill the pocket and the screw itself
> > drills a into the joined piece. Finally, they are driven in with a
> > square head socket drive, usually supplied with the purchase of the
> > fixture. These allow for very good drilling grip. I've broken screws
> > when I forgot to set my drill gun to the slip setting.
> >
> > You can drill these in with an electric drill but a screw gun with a
> > strong slip clutch set to the highest tourqe is the best so you don't
> > spin or break the screw.
> >
> > Pretty much all face frame kitchen cabinets are built with pocket
> > screws now and they ain't fallin apart anytime soon.
> >
> >
> > [email protected] (Kent P. Iler) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
> > > use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
> > > strong joint will.
> > >
> > > --Kent
> > >
> > > [email protected] (Bill Wallace) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > Kent,
> > > >
> > > > You should learn about pocket screws. You can get a small gig for
> > > > $20-$30 dollars. They are very strong and will allow you to cut the
> > > > wood exactly as the plans show. They should work in most locations.
> > > >
> > > > Three considerations:
> > > >
> > > > First, place them where they will be hidden although they can be
> > > > plugged with purchased wood dowels shaped appropriately but its no
> > > > fun.
> > > >
> > > > Secondly, be careful in planning, you need room to get the screw gun
> > > > in and in some spaces it might be too small and hand driving them is
> > > > difficult. Sometimes, just the order of assembly can solve that
> > > > problem.
> > > >
> > > > Finally, always clamp the joints firmly in place befor driving the
> > > > screws. The low cost fixtures make a 15 degreee pocket and the screws
> > > > tend to want to lift the joining piece.
> > > >
> > > > "Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53>...
> > > > > Hi,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm a beginning wood worker. I've built basic things many years ago, and
> > > > > built a pretty big jungle gym/swing set in our backyard, but nothing
> > > > > requiring the accuracy/joints that this will require. However, I do have a
> > > > > decent selection of power tools and have decided to tackle a new project.
> > > > >
> > > > > I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> > > > > We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> > > > > When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> > > > > for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> > > > > including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit the
> > > > > back of the dresser, but that is it.
> > > > >
> > > > > For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> > > > > recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> > > > > http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> > > > > help that you can offer.
> > > > >
> > > > > Here's a little more info if you care to read:
> > > > >
> > > > > I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> > > > > joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would be
> > > > > best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> > > > > recommend proper joints? The jig I'm planning on buying will do sliding
> > > > > dovetails, mortise and tenons, dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and
> > > > > supposedly over 100 more. I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
> > > > > have them yet. Obviously the jig just helps, but I need to know what to do
> > > > > in order for the jig to be successful. I'm not buying it in hopes that it
> > > > > will automagically make the joints for me. I will be reading up on what
> > > > > joints work best for this type of project, but I'm hoping to get a head
> > > > > start and recommendations for the experience folks here.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'd like to build this so that it could be strong enough to be passed to my
> > > > > children for their kids, or at least hold up for many many years. I'm tired
> > > > > of the pressed board kits from Wal-mart that fall apart when you move them,
> > > > > or even after 3 years if you don't move them.
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, I'm planning on using a harder wood than pine for most of this, but
> > > > > I need to balance strength and price - I'm not going with Walnut or Oak. I
> > > > > was thinking Maple. Any recommendations as to wood would be appreciated,
> > > > > too.
> > > > >
> > > > > For now, we're going to finish this in white, as it will match the crib and
> > > > > other furniture in the room. However, if it's ever refinished, it would be
> > > > > nice to keep staining as an option.
> > > > >
> > > > > FYI, the plans were purchased on a large sheet, and I put them into a
> > > > > document that I could print and work with so I don't mess up the original.
> > > > > You'll notice the folds in some of the pictures/graphics on the plans.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for your time!
> > > > >
> > > > > -- Kent Iler
> > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > [email protected]
> > > > > Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> > > > > Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
If you go to www.finewoodworking.com , you can search a 600 article database
for "Chest of Drawers", and there is an excellent article on "Building a
Chest of Drawers, Joinery and Design Considerations", by Christian
Beksvoort. It is an excellent article that can be purchased for a few
dollars. Also, in issue 163, June 2003, there is a good article on
"Engineering a Chest of Drawers". This will answer a lot of your questions.
I also have an excellent book, "Illustrated Cabinetmaking, How to Design and
Construct Furniture that Works", by Bill Hylton. It gives exploded views on
traditional construction of many types of furniture, including the joinery.
When I want to see how a piece of furniture (from highboys to roll-top
desks) should be constructed, I go to this book. It doesn't give explicit
details or dimensions, but there is enough information to design and
construct your own piece. There are also sections on joinery and
subassemblies such as door and drawer construction, casework and post and
rail construction.
Essentially, you have a chest of drawers with one door. The above should
give you plenty of ideas. There are so many ways to put together such a
piece, it would be hard to give you specific advice. For myself, I would
probably dovetail the sides of the carcase to the top and bottom and apply
some sort of bracket feet. I would use sliding dovetails for the drawer
dividers and dados for the dust panels. For the drawers, I would do
half-blind dovetails in the front and through dovetails in the back of the
drawer.
Good Luck,
Preston
"Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53...
> Hi,
>
> I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by then.
> When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any joints
> for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends together,
> including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit
the
> back of the dresser, but that is it.
>
> For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for any
> help that you can offer.
>
> Here's a little more info if you care to read:
>
> I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the other
> joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would
be
> best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> recommend proper joints?
>
> Thank you for your time!
>
> -- Kent Iler
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> [email protected]
> Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
>
>
Thx!
--Kent
"Preston Andreas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cc%[email protected]...
> If you go to www.finewoodworking.com , you can search a 600 article
database
> for "Chest of Drawers", and there is an excellent article on "Building a
> Chest of Drawers, Joinery and Design Considerations", by Christian
> Beksvoort. It is an excellent article that can be purchased for a few
> dollars. Also, in issue 163, June 2003, there is a good article on
> "Engineering a Chest of Drawers". This will answer a lot of your
questions.
>
> I also have an excellent book, "Illustrated Cabinetmaking, How to Design
and
> Construct Furniture that Works", by Bill Hylton. It gives exploded views
on
> traditional construction of many types of furniture, including the
joinery.
> When I want to see how a piece of furniture (from highboys to roll-top
> desks) should be constructed, I go to this book. It doesn't give explicit
> details or dimensions, but there is enough information to design and
> construct your own piece. There are also sections on joinery and
> subassemblies such as door and drawer construction, casework and post and
> rail construction.
>
> Essentially, you have a chest of drawers with one door. The above should
> give you plenty of ideas. There are so many ways to put together such a
> piece, it would be hard to give you specific advice. For myself, I would
> probably dovetail the sides of the carcase to the top and bottom and apply
> some sort of bracket feet. I would use sliding dovetails for the drawer
> dividers and dados for the dust panels. For the drawers, I would do
> half-blind dovetails in the front and through dovetails in the back of the
> drawer.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Preston
> "Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:sHWUa.142123$GL4.35974@rwcrnsc53...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I purchased a set of plans for a piece that my wife liked the looks of.
> > We're expecting in mid-October, and I would like to get this done by
then.
> > When I got the plans, I was shocked to see that they don't have any
joints
> > for the dresser. They just plan on nailing and gluing most ends
together,
> > including the drawers! There is a rabbet on the back of board A to fit
> the
> > back of the dresser, but that is it.
> >
> > For those of you that would just like to look at the plans and make
> > recommendations without reading further, the plans are here:
> > http://www.iler.com/plans/dresser-armoire.pdf. Thanks in advance for
any
> > help that you can offer.
> >
> > Here's a little more info if you care to read:
> >
> > I'd like to get a jig for my router that will do dovetails (and the
other
> > joints), and use that for the drawers. However, I don't know what would
> be
> > best for the rest of the joints. Can someone look at these plans and
> > recommend proper joints?
> >
> > Thank you for your time!
> >
> > -- Kent Iler
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > [email protected]
> > Please CC: all replies via e-mail
> > Remove .NOSPAM from e-mail address
> >
> >
>
>
Check library for Tage Frid Teaches Woodworkung as it has a number of
joints and how they're made. Poplar is easy to work and accepts paint
well. Most woods wont accept stain once the pores have been sealed
with finish.
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 20:34:32 GMT, "Kent P. Iler"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I did order a few books on joinery, but I don't
>have them yet.
"Kent P. Iler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Are the pocket screws as strong as other joints that you'd typically
> use? I guess I'm thinking that the screws will loosen sooner than a
> strong joint will.
>
> --Kent
Kreg claims that pocket screw joinery is stronger than mortise and tenons,
(that's their claim, not mine). From my experience I've never had a pocket
screw loosen up on me. Brush on a little glue on the joint, screw it down
and glue a plug into the hole. That screw is not going anywhere..