Equpment Drive belts. A tip, something to keep in mind.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Equpment Drive belts. A tip, something to keep in mind.
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 08:22:15 -0500
From: Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References: <[email protected]>

On 5/20/2014 12:26 AM, OFWW wrote:
> A sample of what I am speaking of.
>
> http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt
>
> Also sold at harbor freight, Woodcraft, WWGraingers and many
> other places.
>
> Graingers has a nice explanation of the belts, if it were to
> break just replace a link of two.
>
> Adjust belt after one hour of normal work loads to compensate for
> normal belt stretch.
>
> Ok. Why the post
>
> Belts eat up horsepower, consume electricity when too tight and
> can cause premature motor failure. They also can and do add to
> vibrations noise, etc.
>
> Too large a belt, for instance a "B" belt on "A" pulleys add a
> lot of stress due to its rigidity and strength properties. Use
> one in a pinch if need be but replace it quickly. Belts eat up
> motor pulleys and if your motor pulley has a groove on it that
> your fingernail can sense then the pulley is worn and now eating
> up your belts faster.
>
> For energies sake never over tighten your belt. Check the using
> with an amp meter after installing a belt to be sure it won't
> destroy your motor by over amping.
>
> Always use belts with "teeth" when you have a small diameter
> motor pulley. It will reduce operating costs and extend your belt
> life and pulley life as well. It is far easier for those to wrap
> around the pulley when starting and then when running.
>
> Now, here is the reason for the post. The belt shown in the link
> will operate better than a belt with "teeth", run smoother
> because it is designed to wrap around pulleys. It is smoother,
> less vibration, less costs to operate and just plain easier on
> your equipment.
>
> I tested it out on my band saw which was having problems throwing
> out a key on the motor pulley. It was due to two things, one the
> belt had no teeth, and it was a pot metal pulley. A cast iron
> pulley was many times the cost of this and I had replaced the
> stupid pot metal pulley with a like pulley at least 1/6th the
> cost of a decent pulley. I then bought a belt from HF and made
> the adjustments when installing, and WOW, what a difference in
> noise and vibration. It does even better on table saws in
> reducing noise and vibration. It isn't the cheapest thing out
> there but it does do what they say.
>
> Nice thing is, one length can be saved for the longest belt you
> need, and then shortened at any time to use on something else. So
> it reduces shop costs overall, although :) belts are the least of
> our worries.
>
> BTW, these same belts can be used on your air filtration system
> if they use belts and you will notice a reduction in vibration
> noise.
>
> Grainger and maybe some drive belt/bearing house has good stock
> in all widths needed.
>
> Just wanted to share a tip and hopefully return the favor you
> guys do in sharing your idea's.
>
> I worked in HVAC and am retired, and know the importance of belts
> and maintenance on equipment, if that adds any weight to the
> post.
>

You might also want to consider this belt from HF. Very reasonably
priced and I have one on my relatively new DP. One belt was enough to
replace both belts in the DP. I was very surprised that this particular
belt was also a well know brand belt manufacturer. The packaging
indicated the manufacturer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=link+belt


Been using link belts for a few years. It solved a bad belt situation on
my DP ... But I went back to regular belts for the dp as the width was
not allowing me to get to a couple of speeds where the belt would be
next to each other. But all my machines now have link belts.
It made a huge difference.

On 5/20/2014 9:11 AM, woodchucker wrote:
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: Equpment Drive belts. A tip, something to keep in mind.
> Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 08:22:15 -0500
> From: Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> References: <[email protected]>
>
> On 5/20/2014 12:26 AM, OFWW wrote:
>> A sample of what I am speaking of.
>>
>> http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt
>>
>> Also sold at harbor freight, Woodcraft, WWGraingers and many
>> other places.
>>
>> Graingers has a nice explanation of the belts, if it were to
>> break just replace a link of two.
>>
>> Adjust belt after one hour of normal work loads to compensate for
>> normal belt stretch.
>>
>> Ok. Why the post
>>
>> Belts eat up horsepower, consume electricity when too tight and
>> can cause premature motor failure. They also can and do add to
>> vibrations noise, etc.
>>
>> Too large a belt, for instance a "B" belt on "A" pulleys add a
>> lot of stress due to its rigidity and strength properties. Use
>> one in a pinch if need be but replace it quickly. Belts eat up
>> motor pulleys and if your motor pulley has a groove on it that
>> your fingernail can sense then the pulley is worn and now eating
>> up your belts faster.
>>
>> For energies sake never over tighten your belt. Check the using
>> with an amp meter after installing a belt to be sure it won't
>> destroy your motor by over amping.
>>
>> Always use belts with "teeth" when you have a small diameter
>> motor pulley. It will reduce operating costs and extend your belt
>> life and pulley life as well. It is far easier for those to wrap
>> around the pulley when starting and then when running.
>>
>> Now, here is the reason for the post. The belt shown in the link
>> will operate better than a belt with "teeth", run smoother
>> because it is designed to wrap around pulleys. It is smoother,
>> less vibration, less costs to operate and just plain easier on
>> your equipment.
>>
>> I tested it out on my band saw which was having problems throwing
>> out a key on the motor pulley. It was due to two things, one the
>> belt had no teeth, and it was a pot metal pulley. A cast iron
>> pulley was many times the cost of this and I had replaced the
>> stupid pot metal pulley with a like pulley at least 1/6th the
>> cost of a decent pulley. I then bought a belt from HF and made
>> the adjustments when installing, and WOW, what a difference in
>> noise and vibration. It does even better on table saws in
>> reducing noise and vibration. It isn't the cheapest thing out
>> there but it does do what they say.
>>
>> Nice thing is, one length can be saved for the longest belt you
>> need, and then shortened at any time to use on something else. So
>> it reduces shop costs overall, although :) belts are the least of
>> our worries.
>>
>> BTW, these same belts can be used on your air filtration system
>> if they use belts and you will notice a reduction in vibration
>> noise.
>>
>> Grainger and maybe some drive belt/bearing house has good stock
>> in all widths needed.
>>
>> Just wanted to share a tip and hopefully return the favor you
>> guys do in sharing your idea's.
>>
>> I worked in HVAC and am retired, and know the importance of belts
>> and maintenance on equipment, if that adds any weight to the
>> post.
>>
>
> You might also want to consider this belt from HF. Very reasonably
> priced and I have one on my relatively new DP. One belt was enough to
> replace both belts in the DP. I was very surprised that this particular
> belt was also a well know brand belt manufacturer. The packaging
> indicated the manufacturer.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=link+belt
>
>
> Been using link belts for a few years. It solved a bad belt situation on
> my DP ... But I went back to regular belts for the dp as the width was
> not allowing me to get to a couple of speeds where the belt would be
> next to each other. But all my machines now have link belts.
> It made a huge difference.
>


I noticed right away that there seems to be more noise from the link
belts, they are quite stiff, but the vibration and noise caused by
vibration is down 95%