Working Corian & Granite-like Substances?

Context from anotner forum below... Any thoughts?

> Corian is basically mineral-loaded plexiglass, so water cooling is likely
> to be necessary to prevent melting.

Agreed. I'm open to any tooling ideas too... As long as I can figure out
HP, thrust, etc. I can put a greased automobile key into a chuck if that
works for the customer. :)

The basic concept is to keep it as cool as possible so I'm thinking that a
fluted hole saw or even spade drill-type tool would work best with water
based coolant... See below for context based on a discussion with a DuPont
person...

> I would suggest going to the local Corian dealer or the DuPont website
> (http://www.corian.com) and looking for the inevitable application notes
> on such things. Dupont wants people to know how to use Corian, so they'll
> buy lots of it.

Ya know sumthin... I just tried that. Their web page:

http://www.corian.com/corian/a/en/c/Contact_Us/index.html

Doesn't work... And when I called the number listed, the representative
refused to take any technical details on the job unless I gave her a project
name. I made one up and she basically refused to talk to me since she knew
I was making a name up... Perfect example of what I call "urban attitude"
and a really bad first impression. I'm gonna call again right now and see
if I get less of an idiot on the phone... Just a sec...

Okay... Redemption. Received the name of a gentleman who represents DuPont
on "special" Corian jobs. He was able to tell me it machines just like hard
maple or hickory (too bad I can't use it in my smoker...)

It expands when worked and heated so keeping everything slow and cool is a
must or use water-based flood coolant. It is not abrasive at all - about
the same as talc.

So... Now the big question is... Will this work... I'm thinking 400 RPM,
1.5 HP, .010 feed and around 300 lbs. thrust...

I'll let you know! And if anyone needs lots of Corian or tech answers
regarding working Corian, I've got just the contact for you... The guy is
great. Just eMail me off-line.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
http://www.AutoDrill.com
http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

I had to cut some holes in my corian sink to go from a 1 hole to a 3 hole
faucet. I was very apprehensive, but I stuck a sharp hole saw in my drill
and cut away.

I was amazed at how easy it was; probably about the same as maple. I was
warned to stop now and then to let everything cool off, and to set up a
vacuum to catch the dust. Well, the saw did get hot, but the dust did not
get airborne..

I was also told to cut half from each side to avoid chipping. I couldn't
get at the bottom, and there was a little chip, but nothing serious.

So, my advice is to get a good hole saw and have at it.

> Core-boring and hole-saws are a PITA when it comes to removing the plug.

Ever check out Hougen Rotabroach tooling? www.hougen.com

They make a hole saw with a plug ejection system. We have a way to make
sure the plug pops out... But it's not cheap and we mostly sell it to
people doing 3" diameter or larger holes in pipe. If your production
numbers are high enough, I'd be glad to talk to you about how to do it with
their tooling. You wouldn't have to buy a thing from me or anyone other
than Hougen except for maybe some small parts.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
http://www.AutoDrill.com
http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

In article <B1hqe.2$aR1.1@trndny02>,
"Joe AutoDrill" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Anyone know of a chart to figure out RPM, HP, Thrust or any other info?

Joe, most manufacturers of those products suggest hole-saws/core-boring.
I use a carbide-tipped hole-saw with staggered teeth in a 1/2" drill
(with a tail).

If I had to do a lot of them, and the space between the holes would
allow me, I would use a plunge router with a 3/8" up-spiral
solid-carbide and a 1/2" bushing/template combo. By far the fastest and
leaves the cleanest hole. Dust control would be simple to achieve.

Core-boring and hole-saws are a PITA when it comes to removing the plug.

The speed depends on the shape of the teeth (in case of the hole-saw),
sharpness and how well the chips were climbing out of the kerf.
Acrylics have a nasty habit of melting and jamming the saws... so the
word would be: SLOW.

In article <Noiqe.511$fa3.143@trndny01>,
"Joe AutoDrill" <[email protected]> wrote:

> around 300 lbs. thrust...

A bit much. Me thinks. More like 80-100. easy does it.
The stuff cuts itself..in that way, it is more like aluminum
(aluminium, Andy). It's all about chip removal..and water isn't really
needed when you back the tyhrust off.