While making tpo rails for our new deck, I thought that "crowning"
them would help rain an snow run off. Last time, I ran the two bys
through the TS twice with the blade set at 5 degrees or so.
This time, I pulled out the jig I'd made to create a sloped sill out
of that plastic deck board material (I needed it to match the edge of
the sliding glass door sill and slope downward therefrom for the same
reason factory sills do it.
I had some slick plywood sign board material with a slick plastic
facing and cut it to less than the width of my planer by quite a bit
and wide enough to hold the six-inch wide deck board (face down)
between two low guide strips. Underneath this jig, on one side (left),
I fastened a little strip of wood thick enough to raise the one edge
of the sled/jig enough to allow removing the requisite amount of
material from the back side of the deck (Composite - that's what they
call it) board to provide the maximum amount of slope over the three
or four inches of exposed "sill" I required.
Worked like a charm. I cut the result to fit up and under the Sliding
Glass Door (Patio Door) sill and lay nicely upon and over the brick
facing with it's pretty detailed "factory finish" side up and proud.
For the deck railing, I needed to slope both sides from the middle (I
was using two-by material - Cull PT Lumber 50% off list). I added
another low guide strip to match the smaller width of the 4-inch
material and added a quarter-inch or so to the strip used for raising
the jig for the sill (steeper bevel desired) and ran each of the
railings through twice. Turning end - for end, with each pass, then
taking a bit more off, repeated the procedure until I was pleased with
the result.
Then, I ran each rail through the router a few times. First to create
a "drip edge" slot on the underside of the rails (like they do on
wooden window sills (or did), then using a round-over bit on all four
edges.
Man, they feel great! - Look like something factory-made.
Anyone need P.T. Shavings?
On Aug 29, 12:13=A0am, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> Indeed, you have reinvented a trick... :)
I regularly* invent such things only to discover later that I could
have read a book had I the library at hand. Then, a couple of my
inventions appeared to have been created after mine - would the patent
process a bit easier!
* Well, it's been over half a century, now, so "regularly" needs be
taken in that context, too.
Some of the newer "composite" decking materials are encased in a pure
synthetic casing skin. This was done to avoid further lawsuits that ensued
the manufacturers after many installations developed mould that the
manufactures claimed "did not harm the structure of the decking". It makes
sense that the exposed and encapsulated bits of wood fibres would hold
moisture and develop mould, in hindsight. The projected answer was to was
the deck in an anti-mould solution two or three times a year to maintain
your "maintenance free" expensive deck.
Perhaps you have used an older product not yet advanced to this technology
but it would seem you may have recreated this possible mould problem,
depending on the environment around it. Lots of sun and frequent drying is a
factor for decks without complaints of this.
It would be interesting to see how "breaking the seal" works out for you in
a few years.
--------------------------------
"Hoosierpopi" wrote in message
news:dc0ed1c3-8c84-4273-9c36-516d354bd194@m35g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
While making tpo rails for our new deck, I thought that "crowning"
them would help rain an snow run off. Last time, I ran the two bys
through the TS twice with the blade set at 5 degrees or so.
This time, I pulled out the jig I'd made to create a sloped sill out
of that plastic deck board material (I needed it to match the edge of
the sliding glass door sill and slope downward therefrom for the same
reason factory sills do it.
I had some slick plywood sign board material with a slick plastic
facing and cut it to less than the width of my planer by quite a bit
and wide enough to hold the six-inch wide deck board (face down)
between two low guide strips. Underneath this jig, on one side (left),
I fastened a little strip of wood thick enough to raise the one edge
of the sled/jig enough to allow removing the requisite amount of
material from the back side of the deck (Composite - that's what they
call it) board to provide the maximum amount of slope over the three
or four inches of exposed "sill" I required.
Worked like a charm. I cut the result to fit up and under the Sliding
Glass Door (Patio Door) sill and lay nicely upon and over the brick
facing with it's pretty detailed "factory finish" side up and proud.
For the deck railing, I needed to slope both sides from the middle (I
was using two-by material - Cull PT Lumber 50% off list). I added
another low guide strip to match the smaller width of the 4-inch
material and added a quarter-inch or so to the strip used for raising
the jig for the sill (steeper bevel desired) and ran each of the
railings through twice. Turning end - for end, with each pass, then
taking a bit more off, repeated the procedure until I was pleased with
the result.
Then, I ran each rail through the router a few times. First to create
a "drip edge" slot on the underside of the rails (like they do on
wooden window sills (or did), then using a round-over bit on all four
edges.
Man, they feel great! - Look like something factory-made.
Anyone need P.T. Shavings?
On 8/30/2011 8:19 AM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> On Aug 29, 12:13 am, dpb<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Indeed, you have reinvented a trick... :)
>
> I regularly* invent such things only to discover later that I could
> have read a book had I the library at hand. Then, a couple of my
> inventions appeared to have been created after mine - would the patent
> process a bit easier!
>
>
> * Well, it's been over half a century, now, so "regularly" needs be
> taken in that context, too.
I did a quick look-see and the volume I was looking for wasn't on the
shelf--which means it's probably still never been unpacked since the
move from TN and that means it's in one of the many boxes still in the
pile...it's not likely I'm going to be moving those _real_soon_now_
although maybe it'll add to the urge come cold weather this winter...
It's the case I can think of the volume by some of the content but I
can't dredge up enough of the specifics on it to give a searchable
reference...over the years in Lynchburg I picked up a lot of these old
references from library culls and a couple of school shop
closings/cleanups. IIRC this one came from the Old Dominion U
maintenance shops sale where I also picked up an old (early '50s?)
Walker-Turner/Delta shaper--interestingly, despite the age, the castings
for the fence and some others are identical to those of the Delta HD
shaper until very recently; they never changed them other than part
numbers...
--
On 8/28/2011 11:10 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
> For the deck railing, I needed to slope both sides from the middle (I
> was using two-by material - Cull PT Lumber 50% off list). I added
> another low guide strip to match the smaller width of the 4-inch
> material and added a quarter-inch or so to the strip used for raising
> the jig for the sill (steeper bevel desired) and ran each of the
> railings through twice. Turning end - for end, with each pass, then
> taking a bit more off, repeated the procedure until I was pleased with
> the result.
>
> Then, I ran each rail through the router a few times. First to create
> a "drip edge" slot on the underside of the rails (like they do on
> wooden window sills (or did), then using a round-over bit on all four
> edges.
>
> Man, they feel great! - Look like something factory-made.
The last time I did this, I didn't have a planer and it was a PIA to run
a 12' 2x6 through the TS with a taper cut. Planer sounds good.
Here is a link showing a jig for this, is this what you did?
http://tinyurl.com/3ru6b8u
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/auxiliary-planer-bed/
--
Jack
I cut it twice and it's still too short.
http://jbstein.com