On Oct 8, 1:28 pm, samson <[email protected]> wrote:
> After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> or should I just buy some new ones?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
1/32" would not even count as a nick when grinding knives in my shop,
it would be removed in the normal course of sharpening at 60 cents per
inch.
I get knives that have 1/32" of dull rounded over edge all the time
through my drop off sites.
Daily Grind
GarageWoodworks wrote:
> How often have you think folks take blades in to get sharpened and even get
> them back in the same day?? The last time I took a set in, it took 2-weeks
> and the "sharpener/Grinder" made my blades look like they were sharpened on
> the asphalt.
Around here the local sharpening service is generally a 1-day turnaround
and they do a really good job.
Whatever works...
Chris
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> or should I just buy some new ones?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
You can sharpen them yourself with my jig in less time it takes you to drive
to the sharpener. Plus, I am willing to bet that you can get them sharper
than the professional. But since you haven't sharpened them in 15 years,
you might not appreciate the difference. :-)
See my jig section:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"beecrofter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Oct 8, 1:28 pm, samson <[email protected]> wrote:
>> After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
>> screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
>> nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
>> these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
>> or should I just buy some new ones?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> S.
>
> 1/32" would not even count as a nick when grinding knives in my shop,
> it would be removed in the normal course of sharpening at 60 cents per
> inch.
> I get knives that have 1/32" of dull rounded over edge all the time
> through my drop off sites.
>
>
> Daily Grind
>
After you are finished grinding away ("sharpening") at a knife, can you see
grind marks with the naked eye on the edge (bevel) of the knife?
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"Steve knight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>You can sharpen them yourself with my jig in less time it takes you to
>>drive
>>to the sharpener. Plus, I am willing to bet that you can get them sharper
>>than the professional. But since you haven't sharpened them in 15 years,
>>you might not appreciate the difference. :-)
>>
>
> I would like to see you grind out that nick on your jig. got a week?
> (G) you must really drive slowly.
1/32" nick?? You think it would take a week? Please. I would be done
before he returned with his grinder "sharpened" blades if the sharpener was
a block away.
>>1/32" nick?? You think it would take a week? Please. I would be done
>>before he returned with his grinder "sharpened" blades if the sharpener
>>was
>>a block away.
>>
> of course it won't take that long but it would not be fast either. I
> know how long it takes to remove metal with sandpaper. I Have used
> hundreds of sanding belts doing that job.
> but I do know there is a change of uneven sharpening when you have
> to remove that much metal if your doing it with hand pressure and
> sandpaper.
So what is your point Steve? I should not suggest that he sharpen his
blades himself because it might take longer? Actually I REALLY doubt that
it would. I could take that nick out in no time at all (6" jointer knife
with a micro bevel) and achieve superior results to a "sharpener/grinder".
Have you made my jig and tried it on a 6" jointer knife? I know you
wouldn't have much use for it because it can't sharpen a plane knife, but
try it before you cast judgment. You are assuming it will take a certain
amount of time to sharpen a jointer knife (most likely 6", although he
doesn't say) with a jig you never used.
How often have you think folks take blades in to get sharpened and even get
them back in the same day?? The last time I took a set in, it took 2-weeks
and the "sharpener/Grinder" made my blades look like they were sharpened on
the asphalt.
Geesh.
> Hey, I like your 90o alignment tool. I think I'm going to have to make
> one.
>
> - Owen -
>
Thanks! I think you will find a lot of uses for it. With all of the
garbage I see published in FWW magazines 'Methods of Work' section, I still
can't believe they rejected my tool.
If you find you use my alignment tool a lot you might want to look into the
TS-Aligner Jr which has more features.
>Around here the local sharpening service is generally a 1-day turnaround
>and they do a really good job.
>
>Whatever works...
I have a pretty good place 2 blocks from my shop. great for fixing a
broken bit or such fast. I never had any knives sharpened because I
dumped my planer knives. but myself I don't have the time to spend to
sharpen planer knives.
"GarageWoodworks" wrote
> With all of the
> garbage I see published in FWW magazines 'Methods of Work' section, I
still
> can't believe they rejected my tool.
Keep your eyes open ... now you might see it somewhere you don't expect,
like for sale and "made in China".
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/30/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> > screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> > nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> > these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> > or should I just buy some new ones?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > S.
>
> Are you saying you haven't sharpened them in 15 years, or it's the first
> time you've hit something embedded? I hope it's the latter ;-).
>
> If it's a small (narrow) nick, try offsetting the knives a little bit. That
> way, one knife won't cut where the nick is, but the next knife will.
> Failing that, at least try to get them sharpened. The worst that will
> happen is they will tell you they can't be salvaged and you don't have to
> accept them.
>
> good luck.
>
> jc
That's a really good idea to offset the knives. Thanks for the
great advise. Yeah, the guy where sharpens for something like
50 cents an inch. But I was curious if these kinds of accidents
meant the end of the blade. Thanks again.
S.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Oct 8, 1:28 pm, samson <[email protected]> wrote:
> > After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> > screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> > nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> > these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> > or should I just buy some new ones?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > S.
>
> 1/32" would not even count as a nick when grinding knives in my shop,
> it would be removed in the normal course of sharpening at 60 cents per
> inch.
> I get knives that have 1/32" of dull rounded over edge all the time
> through my drop off sites.
>
>
> Daily Grind
Good to know, Daily. I appreciate it.
Mike
"samson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> or should I just buy some new ones?
>
> Thanks,
>
> S.
Are you saying you haven't sharpened them in 15 years, or it's the first
time you've hit something embedded? I hope it's the latter ;-).
If it's a small (narrow) nick, try offsetting the knives a little bit. That
way, one knife won't cut where the nick is, but the next knife will.
Failing that, at least try to get them sharpened. The worst that will
happen is they will tell you they can't be salvaged and you don't have to
accept them.
good luck.
jc
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> No plans, but it's pretty obvious how it goes together.
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm
>
Hey, I like your 90o alignment tool. I think I'm going to have to make one.
- Owen -
samson wrote:
> After about 15 years of use, I finally hit an embedded
> screw in a used piece of wood in my jointer. It put a 1/32
> nick in the knives that affects the plane profile. Are
> these blades ruined? Is it worth it to get them sharpened
> or should I just buy some new ones?
You haven't sharpened them in 15 years???!!!
Depends on what they are and what size. A 1/32" is pretty deep if it is
that deep, not wide, but if they're a full profile knife there may be
enough remaining width to grind them that much. You'll have to measure
that and see if you'll have enough to meet the minimum width when done.
If they're solid carbide, they'll be worth it in terms of replacement
cost. HSS isn't too expensive if they're 4-6", 8" starts to add up, but
still not too bad...
You can, of course, simply hone/sharpen them to a new edge and forget
the knick and offset them slightly to disguise the damage as a "cheap 'n
cheery" workaround solution. That means, of course, that using the
rabbeting function is out, but not many really do in my observation...
--
In article <[email protected]>,
"JAMES M. PRENDERGAST" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>
>
> I could take that nick out in no time at all (6" jointer knife
> > with a micro bevel) and achieve superior results to a "sharpener/grinder".
> > Have you made my jig and tried it on a 6" jointer knife?
>
> I've glanced at this thread several times but just saw your recent
> reply. I have a small knick in the blades of my Rigid jointer (my fault)
> that I would like to remove. You mentioned a jig. Could you send me
> plans for your jig - I'm sorry that I probably missed it in one of your
> other replies. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim
Somehow my email address is wrong in the header/sender area. It should
be [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
"GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
I could take that nick out in no time at all (6" jointer knife
> with a micro bevel) and achieve superior results to a "sharpener/grinder".
> Have you made my jig and tried it on a 6" jointer knife?
I've glanced at this thread several times but just saw your recent
reply. I have a small knick in the blades of my Rigid jointer (my fault)
that I would like to remove. You mentioned a jig. Could you send me
plans for your jig - I'm sorry that I probably missed it in one of your
other replies. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jim
On Tue, 9 Oct 2007 22:40:42 -0400, "GarageWoodworks" <.@.> wrote:
>1/32" nick?? You think it would take a week? Please. I would be done
>before he returned with his grinder "sharpened" blades if the sharpener was
>a block away.
>
of course it won't take that long but it would not be fast either. I
know how long it takes to remove metal with sandpaper. I Have used
hundreds of sanding belts doing that job.
but I do know there is a change of uneven sharpening when you have
to remove that much metal if your doing it with hand pressure and
sandpaper.
>You can sharpen them yourself with my jig in less time it takes you to drive
>to the sharpener. Plus, I am willing to bet that you can get them sharper
>than the professional. But since you haven't sharpened them in 15 years,
>you might not appreciate the difference. :-)
>
I would like to see you grind out that nick on your jig. got a week?
(G) you must really drive slowly.
>So what is your point Steve? I should not suggest that he sharpen his
>blades himself because it might take longer? Actually I REALLY doubt that
>it would. I could take that nick out in no time at all (6" jointer knife
>with a micro bevel) and achieve superior results to a "sharpener/grinder".
>Have you made my jig and tried it on a 6" jointer knife? I know you
>wouldn't have much use for it because it can't sharpen a plane knife, but
>try it before you cast judgment. You are assuming it will take a certain
>amount of time to sharpen a jointer knife (most likely 6", although he
>doesn't say) with a jig you never used.
>
I am saying that sharpening and grinding are two different things. it
is easy to goof up when grinding.
there are also good and poor sharpening services.
myself all I have to do is rotate a carbide cutter that is far
easier then your jig (G)
but for a bit before I dumped my cutter head I used my makita on
them. work ok but still not as fast as my carbide cutters.