Making long boards out of short

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160=B1 pieces of 1"x6"x=
42"
> boards. Hem fir.
> Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
> tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a price
> that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber. BTW, I live =
in
> the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.

There are fingerjoint router bits sold for just this purpose.

That's a good size, but not a good wood, for fence pickets.

It seems they'd also be good for some 20" x 20" x 40" six
board blanket boxes, toy chests etc. They'd use about 20
boards each with very little left over. With Careful resawing
and planing you could get two 1/4" boards from each and
use them for drawer sides.

I had thought softwood too soft for drawers and runners but
recently re-finished my Mother's pine nightstand. 60 +
years old, been chewed on by dogs and run over a few
times by my Dad on his scooter and still sturdy as hell,
as is the nightstand.

--=20

FF

A Scarf Joint will make the boards longer and less wide.

henry wrote:
> A Scarf Joint will make the boards longer and less wide.

Explain that, please.

R

Check this link...

http://www.glen-l.com/supplies/pxman-apscarf.html

Try a birds tongue joint which you can cut on the table saw. It makes a
very strong joint that is attractive. The down side is that it uses up
a little more of the length to form the long tapered joint.
Bugs

henry wrote:
> A Scarf Joint will make the boards longer and less wide.

I'm still curious why a scarf joint would affect the width of the
board(s). How does an end joint affect the width?

R

[email protected] wrote:

> I had thought softwood too soft for drawers and runners but
> recently re-finished my Mother's pine nightstand. 60 +
> years old, been chewed on by dogs and run over a few
> times by my Dad on his scooter and still sturdy as hell,
> as is the nightstand.

If you have slow growth, the rings will be a lot tighter and the wood
denser.

You can get salvaged "heart pine" or "long leaf pine" but it's pretty
hard to get new stuff.

Chris

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160± pieces of 1"x6"x42"
> boards. Hem fir.
> Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
> tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a price
> that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber. BTW, I live in
> the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.
>
> BTW, 15 years ago I cut 3000 l.f. of custom moulding for a re-model that I
> was doing. Still have the Foley Belsaw moulder. At that time a lumber
> supplier was able to get me finger joint (not door jamb) 1" primed paint
> grade lumber for a very attractive price. Finger joint has no knots, does
> not warp (every other piece is flip-flopped) and is great to work with.
> Sure beats the mdf which turns to dust when you shape it.
>
> Thanks for ideas,
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>

You could also use a lock miter router/shaper bit as well. Just route
both board ends flat/horizontal and flip them... just like the funger
joint in that manner, but offers greater utility...

unless you plan on doing a lot of this joining, then a fingerjoint
cutter may be the best option.

~Trevor

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160± pieces of 1"x6"x42"
> boards. Hem fir.
> Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
> tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a price
> that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber. BTW, I live in
> the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.
>
> BTW, 15 years ago I cut 3000 l.f. of custom moulding for a re-model that I
> was doing. Still have the Foley Belsaw moulder. At that time a lumber
> supplier was able to get me finger joint (not door jamb) 1" primed paint
> grade lumber for a very attractive price. Finger joint has no knots, does
> not warp (every other piece is flip-flopped) and is great to work with.
> Sure beats the mdf which turns to dust when you shape it.
>
> Thanks for ideas,
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>

You could also use a lock miter router/shaper bit as well. Just route
both board ends flat/horizontal and flip them... just like the funger
joint in that manner, but offers greater utility...

unless you plan on doing a lot of this joining, then a fingerjoint
cutter may be the best option.

~Trevor

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160± pieces of 1"x6"x42"
> boards. Hem fir.
> Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
> tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a price
> that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber. BTW, I live in
> the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.
>
> BTW, 15 years ago I cut 3000 l.f. of custom moulding for a re-model that I
> was doing. Still have the Foley Belsaw moulder. At that time a lumber
> supplier was able to get me finger joint (not door jamb) 1" primed paint
> grade lumber for a very attractive price. Finger joint has no knots, does
> not warp (every other piece is flip-flopped) and is great to work with.
> Sure beats the mdf which turns to dust when you shape it.
>
> Thanks for ideas,
>
> Ivan Vegvary
>
>

You could also use a lock miter router/shaper bit as well. Just route
both board ends flat/horizontal and flip them... just like the funger
joint in that manner, but offers greater utility...

unless you plan on doing a lot of this joining, then a fingerjoint
cutter may be the best option.

~Trevor

Trevor wrote:
> Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>
>> Is there any practical way of doing this? I have 160± pieces of
>> 1"x6"x42" boards. Hem fir.
>> Is finger jointing possible in the home shop. Willing to pay for some
>> tooling. Could a commercial place 'fingerjoint' this for me for a
>> price that would be less than buying equivalent amount of lumber.
>> BTW, I live in the Northwest, we have some lumber mills nearby.
>>
>> BTW, 15 years ago I cut 3000 l.f. of custom moulding for a re-model
>> that I was doing. Still have the Foley Belsaw moulder. At that time
>> a lumber supplier was able to get me finger joint (not door jamb) 1"
>> primed paint grade lumber for a very attractive price. Finger joint
>> has no knots, does not warp (every other piece is flip-flopped) and is
>> great to work with. Sure beats the mdf which turns to dust when you
>> shape it.
>>
>> Thanks for ideas,
>>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>>
>
> You could also use a lock miter router/shaper bit as well. Just route
> both board ends flat/horizontal and flip them... just like the funger
> joint in that manner, but offers greater utility...
>
> unless you plan on doing a lot of this joining, then a fingerjoint
> cutter may be the best option.
>
> ~Trevor

sorry about the multiple posts, my email client was acting up and saying
it didn't post, but apparantly it was posting...