Teak resin

Well... they suggest Acetone to cut the oil on woods before finishing
so maybe it would work well. Use good gloves and a respirator.

PS. Don't allow Silicon into your wood shop. You really don't want it
getting anywhere near wood that will later be finished.

I use carb cleaner..don't inhale too much of the spray or it'll clean
you ! but the resin runs off.

"....Ken" wrote:

> Anyone have an effective way to remove/ prevent teak resin from building up
> on a bandsaw blade? I have been using 'easy off' oven cleaner. It works, but
> messy and not ideal . TSP is not as good. I may try coating the band with a
> silicone spray for prevention, but concerned about possible slippage on the
> wheels.
>
> All realistic suggestions appreciated.
>
> regards......Ken

I would not use silicone spray. Try spraying "PAM", the cooking spray, on the
blade and see if it prevents the build up. It works to reduce blade friction.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 20:44:40 -0800, "....Ken" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:

>Anyone have an effective way to remove/ prevent teak resin from building up
>on a bandsaw blade? I have been using 'easy off' oven cleaner. It works, but
>messy and not ideal . TSP is not as good. I may try coating the band with a
>silicone spray for prevention, but concerned about possible slippage on the
>wheels.
>
>All realistic suggestions appreciated.

Simple Green removes most gums and tars from blades. If you don't
overheat the blade very often, plain old Johnson's wax helps prevent
buildup.


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>>All realistic suggestions appreciated.
>
> Simple Green removes most gums and tars from blades. If you don't
> overheat the blade very often, plain old Johnson's wax helps prevent
> buildup.
>

In my New Year's quest to tune up and de-clutter the shop, I cleaned up
three of my tablesaw blades this morning. It was really too miserable to
work in the garage/shop. It's looked and felt colder than Portland the
last two weeks. Simple Green and a 3M scrubbie thing did the trick.

I used Dricote afterwards, although I've used paste wax in the past.

The biggest variable seems to be the wood going across the saw. Some stuff
gums up a new (read 'clean') blade, no matter what.

Patriarch,
wondering when spring is coming...

RE: Subject

Somebody wrote:

>All realistic suggestions appreciated.

My suggestion is don't waste your time trying to clean blades used to cut
good teak, not the imitation crap.

Good teak will dull a good carbide blade so fast it will make your head
spin.

If you are going to work with teak, dedicate two (2) blades to the task.

One in the table saw, the other at the sharpening shop.

HTH

Lew