I need a little "intelligent design" for an aquarium stand I'm making.
I decided to make one that could be copied with a minimal amount of
woodworking ability and equipment, because most aquarists are not
woodworkers. And at a cost lower than the ones in the stores.
It's essentially a plywood box with two plywood doors. The doors
overlap the box on top, bottom, and sides.
The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
metric drill bit.
So what are the alternatives? Piano hinges are one, but they're
expensive. Are there others that are strong enough to hold (and hold
in) plywood and still be economical and fairly easy to install?
I couldn't find any. I thought about "H" or "L" hinges, but most seem
to be too large. I may have to bite the bullet and just recommend the
Euro hinges - with the hint that a 1 3/8" bit will do if they already
have one.
Thanks for any help.
Larry Blanchard wrote:
>
...
> It's essentially a plywood box with two plywood doors. The doors
> overlap the box on top, bottom, and sides.
> The question is about hinges. ...
> So what are the alternatives? Piano hinges are one, but they're
> expensive. Are there others that are strong enough to hold (and hold
> in) plywood and still be economical and fairly easy to install?
What size doors, what thickness ply, what door construction style?
What is an acceptable/unacceptable price point?
Swingman wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
>
>
>>The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
>>that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
>>of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
>>metric drill bit.
>
> Don't be intimidated. For most 'Blum type' Euro hinges, the one time
> purchase of a good 35mm forstner bit will set you back +/- $35 and will
> save hours of hinge installation frustration in the long run.
>
I'm not intimidated - but I am a woodworker. I'm hoping to make this
stand an example for non-woodworker aquarists.
I will be using the Euro hinges but wasn't sure about recommending them
to non-woodworkers, that's why I was asking about alternatives.
I must not have been clear about the doors because the only suggestions
I've seen have been for non full overlay hinges. The edges of the door
line up with the outside edge of the side and the top edge of the top
and extend below the bottom edge of the bottom.
And also, for novices, I'd like to be able to suggest a surface mount
hinge. I've looked for a hinge that has one flat leaf that would mount
on the flat surface of the side and a second leaf that was L-shaped and
would wrap around the door edge and screw into the flat surface or the
door. IOW (bad art):
|
|
|
O
|
---------
SO far I have not been able to locate such a hinge.
Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> Ha! I get it now. There you go, full overlay hinges:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=48642&cat=3,41241
>
> You could also use something similar to this (no mortise hinges). I
> have seen less fancy versions used on bi-fold doors.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50423&cat=3,41241,41249&ap=1
>
> or these:
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40233&cat=3,41241
>
Actually, those last seem to be the closest yet. Thanks.
First off Salt or Fresh? Salt will corrode most metal hinges like no
tomorrow. Fresh will work on them too.So Stainless Steel or even plastic
hinges should do well.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need a little "intelligent design" for an aquarium stand I'm making.
> I decided to make one that could be copied with a minimal amount of
> woodworking ability and equipment, because most aquarists are not
> woodworkers. And at a cost lower than the ones in the stores.
>
> It's essentially a plywood box with two plywood doors. The doors
> overlap the box on top, bottom, and sides.
>
> The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
> that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
> of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
> metric drill bit.
>
> So what are the alternatives? Piano hinges are one, but they're
> expensive. Are there others that are strong enough to hold (and hold
> in) plywood and still be economical and fairly easy to install?
>
> I couldn't find any. I thought about "H" or "L" hinges, but most seem
> to be too large. I may have to bite the bullet and just recommend the
> Euro hinges - with the hint that a 1 3/8" bit will do if they already
> have one.
>
> Thanks for any help.
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
> I'm not intimidated - but I am a woodworker. I'm hoping to make this
> stand an example for non-woodworker aquarists.
Welp, that clears that up. I knew _you_ were, but I wasn't sure about some
other 'Larry Blanchard ... my sincere apologies. ;)
> I will be using the Euro hinges but wasn't sure about recommending them
> to non-woodworkers, that's why I was asking about alternatives.
>
> I must not have been clear about the doors because the only suggestions
> I've seen have been for non full overlay hinges. The edges of the door
> line up with the outside edge of the side and the top edge of the top
> and extend below the bottom edge of the bottom.
You obviously know then to caution them to make sure of inside clearances.
With the myriad of Euro hinge makes and models for specific overlays,
insets, etc., clearance issues for what's inside can be a problem if the
non-woodworker types aren't aware of them. It's bit me in the butt more
than once and, like you, I be a wooddorker too, or at least aspire in that
direction. ;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/05
"Larry Blanchard" wrote:
>The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
>that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
>of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
>metric drill bit.
Would NOT go near your choice with a 10 ft pole.
At a minimum, would use brass t a minimum, silicon bronze if I can get them.
Probably use a slip pin (loose pin) hinge.
Probably have some router and chisel work to let the hinges into proper
position.
"Why", you ask?
"Water", I answer.
At a minimum, you have a high humidity environment.
Steel in any form, unless 316L S/S, just plain sucks in most
applications, especially this one.
Had an aquarium. Ben there, done that.
Lew
I'd assumed he wasn't building the cabinet to IN the aquarium.
"HMFIC-1369" <[email protected] Baa> wrote in message
news:GXu6f.2620$i31.725@trnddc08...
> First off Salt or Fresh? Salt will corrode most metal hinges like no
> tomorrow. Fresh will work on them too.So Stainless Steel or even plastic
> hinges should do well.
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 09:47:34 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
>that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
>of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
>metric drill bit.
I was watching one of those home improvement shows, I think it was In
a Fix, and they were remodelling a galley kitchen I think and ordered
replacement doors for all the cabinets. The doors had euro hinges.
They didn't have the drill bit. So, they took the only reasonable
course of action. Ripped out all the cabinets, went to the borg and
got new cabinets and installed them.
-Leuf
"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
> The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
> that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
> of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
> metric drill bit.
Don't be intimidated. For most 'Blum type' Euro hinges, the one time
purchase of a good 35mm forstner bit will set you back +/- $35 and will
save hours of hinge installation frustration in the long run.
Once past the 'hinge cup hole' stage in the door, Euro hinges are so easy to
install, and more importantly, in their adjustability, that getting past
that stage is well worth it in time alone.
Do you have/or have access to a drill press? If so, you can forego the
various aftermarket jigs and use a clamped on fence and the 35mm drill
forstner drill bit and you're home free in about 25% of the time it takes to
install most other type hinges.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/16/05
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 17:03:55 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> scribbled:
<snip>
>I must not have been clear about the doors because the only suggestions
>I've seen have been for non full overlay hinges. The edges of the door
>line up with the outside edge of the side and the top edge of the top
>and extend below the bottom edge of the bottom.
>
>And also, for novices, I'd like to be able to suggest a surface mount
>hinge. I've looked for a hinge that has one flat leaf that would mount
>on the flat surface of the side and a second leaf that was L-shaped and
>would wrap around the door edge and screw into the flat surface or the
>door. IOW (bad art):
>
> |
> |
> |
> O
> |
> ---------
>
>SO far I have not been able to locate such a hinge.
Ha! I get it now. There you go, full overlay hinges:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=48642&cat=3,41241
You could also use something similar to this (no mortise hinges). I
have seen less fancy versions used on bi-fold doors.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50423&cat=3,41241,41249&ap=1
or these:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40233&cat=3,41241
HTH, although they might be hard to find.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Woodworking
On Sat, 22 Oct 2005 09:47:34 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> scribbled:
>I need a little "intelligent design" for an aquarium stand I'm making.
>I decided to make one that could be copied with a minimal amount of
>woodworking ability and equipment, because most aquarists are not
>woodworkers. And at a cost lower than the ones in the stores.
>
>It's essentially a plywood box with two plywood doors. The doors
>overlap the box on top, bottom, and sides.
Huh?
>The question is about hinges. The obvious solution is Euro hinges and
>that's what I'll be using. But for a non-woodworker just the appearance
>of those things is intimidating, not to mention the need for a (horrors)
>metric drill bit.
>
>So what are the alternatives? Piano hinges are one, but they're
>expensive. Are there others that are strong enough to hold (and hold
>in) plywood and still be economical and fairly easy to install?
>
>I couldn't find any. I thought about "H" or "L" hinges, but most seem
>to be too large. I may have to bite the bullet and just recommend the
>Euro hinges - with the hint that a 1 3/8" bit will do if they already
>have one.
How about the standard pre-Euro hinge kitchen cabinet hinges like:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50405&cat=3,41241,41257&ap=1
Very easy to install, IME, and available in any hardware store/Borg.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Woodworking