Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a dust
collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the duct work
fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer shavings could get
snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm using standard 1/2" or so
ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw? Maybe not worry about it?
I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go together
with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida) and so using
something else is not an option.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Hey Mike,
I'm using 4 inch plastic pipe and the screws I use will only protrude
about 1/8 inch into the lumen of the pipe after going through a
connector and the wall of the inner section. Dust is no problem for
protusions but if you get a chip it could eventually cause more
damming so try to minimize the protrusions as much as possible (i.e.
shorter screws or a few washers on tthe outside)
Marc
On Jul 15, 1:41 pm, "Mike Dembroge"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a dust
> collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the duct work
> fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer shavings could get
> snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm using standard 1/2" or so
> ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw? Maybe not worry about it?
>
> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go together
> with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida) and so using
> something else is not an option.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mike
On Jul 15, 10:47 pm, "Mike Dembroge"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Yeah, I thought about pop rivets, but then the system will be much harder to
> modify and take down if/when I move shops. For the sake of flexibility, I
> think screws are still better. Also, pop rivets aren't all that smooth on
> the inside. They're probably still about 1/2 the profile inside the duct.
>
> "digitect" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:41:17 +0000, Mike Dembroge wrote:
>
> >> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a
> >> dust collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the
> >> duct work fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer
> >> shavings could get snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm
> >> using standard 1/2" or so ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw?
> >> Maybe not worry about it?
>
> >> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go
> >> together with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida)
> >> and so using something else is not an option.
>
> > Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all you
> > need.
>
> > --
> > Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]
Try not to place any fasteners along the very bottom of the duct, and
you'll be fine. One at twelve, four and eight o'clock will do. Tom
On Jul 15, 1:41 pm, "Mike Dembroge"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a dust
> collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the duct work
> fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer shavings could get
> snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm using standard 1/2" or so
> ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw? Maybe not worry about it?
>
> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go together
> with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida) and so using
> something else is not an option.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mike
Mike,
I have a main trunk of 5" diameter metal spiral ducting in my system
and several 4" diameter braches of the same material. I also have
some 4" PVC drainage pipe. All are joined by....wait for it....DUCT
Tape. My system has been in use three years and no problems. No
internal obstructions.
I also haven't grounded my system, so, by the time you read this, I
may have already blown myself up. :-)
Bill Leonhardt
mac davis wrote:
| On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:10:44 GMT, digitect
| <[email protected]> wrote:
|
|| On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:14:43 -0700, mac davis wrote:
||| On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:46:00 GMT, digitect wrote:
||||
|||| Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all
|||| you need.
|||
||| IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break,
||| get a good Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find
||| out how pop riveting is SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT
||
|| For cheap tools (<$30), I usually buy the good one the second go
|| around. That way, if I get a bargin I'm happy, but if it breaks I'm
|| not out too much. Besides, the $10 unit at HB is nearly the most
|| expensive, they actually sell a $5 one.
|
| I bought a set of "professional" ones at HF... pop rivets and
| threaded inserts..
|
| Even as a big fan of HF, I have to say that they weren't worth
| buying, for any price..
Interesting - I bought my pneumatic riveter on sale at HF and it has
been going strong for three years now. I'd buy it again in a flash.
I go to Fastenal(sp?) for stainless steel pop rivets and I use s/s
washers as backup plates - of course, you wouldn't really want to have
to drill one out...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 13:05:49 -0500, "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>| Even as a big fan of HF, I have to say that they weren't worth
>| buying, for any price..
>
>Interesting - I bought my pneumatic riveter on sale at HF and it has
>been going strong for three years now. I'd buy it again in a flash.
>
>I go to Fastenal(sp?) for stainless steel pop rivets and I use s/s
>washers as backup plates - of course, you wouldn't really want to have
>to drill one out...
For sure.. like I said, I buy a LOT of stuff at HF..
My $20 brad nailers have been working well for years and it's the only place
I'll buy clamps... you just have to be careful of WHAT you buy there..
There's a huge difference between inexpensive and cheap...
I've been trying to kill my HF belt/disk sander for about 5 years now and it
won't quit...
OTOH, I won't buy sanding belts, bandsaw blades, etc. there...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:10:44 GMT, digitect <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:14:43 -0700, mac davis wrote:
>> On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:46:00 GMT, digitect wrote:
>> >
>> > Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all
>> > you need.
>>
>> IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break, get
>> a good Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find out how
>> pop riveting is SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT
>
>For cheap tools (<$30), I usually buy the good one the second go
>around. That way, if I get a bargin I'm happy, but if it breaks I'm
>not out too much. Besides, the $10 unit at HB is nearly the most
>expensive, they actually sell a $5 one.
I bought a set of "professional" ones at HF... pop rivets and threaded inserts..
Even as a big fan of HF, I have to say that they weren't worth buying, for any
price..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Mike Dembroge wrote:
> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a dust
> collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the duct work
> fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer shavings could get
> snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm using standard 1/2" or so
> ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw? Maybe not worry about it?
>
> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go together
> with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida) and so using
> something else is not an option.
If it's 3" or larger (as I would presume it is from Oneida) they're a
pretty small fraction of the diameter and there are only 2/3 at any one
joint anyway. I'd probably use a 3/8" or so instead of half if I were
buying, but if I already had the others don't know that I'd stop.
I think it'll be no problem.
And, of course, you could probably get away with none in most locations
and simply use the high-quality HVAC seal tape (not "duck" tape) and do
away w/ the screws entirely unless you need/want disassembly.
Might need a couple here and there if the joints aren't horizontal for
the security, but other than that could probably dispense w/ them almost
entirely...
imo, ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., ... :)
--
On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:41:17 +0000, Mike Dembroge wrote:
>
> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a
> dust collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the
> duct work fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer
> shavings could get snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm
> using standard 1/2" or so ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw?
> Maybe not worry about it?
>
> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go
> together with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida)
> and so using something else is not an option.
Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all you
need.
--
Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:14:43 -0700, mac davis wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:46:00 GMT, digitect wrote:
> >
> > Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all
> > you need.
>
> IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break, get
> a good Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find out how
> pop riveting is SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT
For cheap tools (<$30), I usually buy the good one the second go
around. That way, if I get a bargin I'm happy, but if it breaks I'm
not out too much. Besides, the $10 unit at HB is nearly the most
expensive, they actually sell a $5 one.
--
Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:46:00 GMT, digitect <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:41:17 +0000, Mike Dembroge wrote:
>>
>> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a
>> dust collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the
>> duct work fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer
>> shavings could get snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm
>> using standard 1/2" or so ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw?
>> Maybe not worry about it?
>>
>> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go
>> together with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida)
>> and so using something else is not an option.
>
>Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all you
>need.
IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break, get a good
Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find out how pop riveting is
SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Yeah, I thought about pop rivets, but then the system will be much harder to
modify and take down if/when I move shops. For the sake of flexibility, I
think screws are still better. Also, pop rivets aren't all that smooth on
the inside. They're probably still about 1/2 the profile inside the duct.
"digitect" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:41:17 +0000, Mike Dembroge wrote:
>>
>> Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a
>> dust collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the
>> duct work fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer
>> shavings could get snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm
>> using standard 1/2" or so ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw?
>> Maybe not worry about it?
>>
>> I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go
>> together with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida)
>> and so using something else is not an option.
>
> Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all you
> need.
>
> --
> Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]