Gorilla needs a good fit 'tween the pieces for their proprietary "toughest
glue" claim. If voids are present, it'd be a brittle join. I'd go with yellow
glue that has more elastic properties, removing as much of the original
adhesive as possible, myself. And welcome to the wreck. Tom
>Dan Parrell wrote:
>I've come across 5 pressback chairs, early 1900's. I'm going to refinish
>them but first have to strip and re-glue the dowels. I have always put faith
>in the yellow but have seen chairs loosen up again over time.Question which
>is better yellow carpenters grade glue or gorilla ?
>tks in advance
>Dan
Someday, it'll all be over....
On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 11:29:47 -0330, "Dan Parrell"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've come across 5 pressback chairs, early 1900's. I'm going to refinish
>them but first have to strip and re-glue the dowels.
Hide glue. Works, strong, has a certain amount of elasticity. It's
also removable in 100 years, when they're next due for maintenance.
Chair making is hard work - there's a lot of racking force in those
joints.
I'm not sure what hide to use. Some of my old chairmaking books use a
mixture of rabbit skin glue in with the usual pearl glue, to add a
little more flexibility. I need to experiment here.
White glues would work here too, but they'd work until they fail, then
quite possibly damage the joint irrepairably. They're great glues for
things that don't get highly loaded or don't ever move, but a joint in
a 100 year old chair is an ongoing process, not a one-time assembly.
I don't much like poly glues, they're poor on this sort of joint and
they're disastrous for repair or refurb work. They have poor
gap-filling properties - they _fill_ a gap, but they lose all their
strength when unsupported.
--
Smert' spamionam
Dan,
Again - welcome to the rec. Hide glue and wrap the dowel in a thin wood
shaving (long grain to long grain) if there's a lot of slop and the chair
has some antique value. You may want to do a search on restoration
techniques to get some definitive methods for doing this.
If it doesn't have any antique value and the joints are loose you may want
to consider (tinted) epoxy since it can be used for gap filing. The other
glues (yellow, white, or poly) could be used also providing you have a snug
fit - which I doubt and have to resort to using a shaving or some other
means for making the joint a snug fit. The wood will swell using yellow or
white glues but after awhile, they dry out and the joint then comes apart
again. You need to remove all the old glue from the joints which if its the
original glue is most likely hide glue. A little vinegar and warm water
will help remove it.
The poly glues (Gorilla brand and others) do foam out giving you the
impression that they are gap filing - they are not. The walls of the foam
(bubbles) are not strong.
Bob S.
"Dan Parrell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've come across 5 pressback chairs, early 1900's. I'm going to refinish
> them but first have to strip and re-glue the dowels. I have always put
faith
> in the yellow but have seen chairs loosen up again over time.Question
which
> is better yellow carpenters grade glue or gorilla ?
> tks in advance
> Dan
>
>
thanks Bob
"Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan,
>
> Again - welcome to the rec. Hide glue and wrap the dowel in a thin wood
> shaving (long grain to long grain) if there's a lot of slop and the chair
> has some antique value. You may want to do a search on restoration
> techniques to get some definitive methods for doing this.
>
> If it doesn't have any antique value and the joints are loose you may want
> to consider (tinted) epoxy since it can be used for gap filing. The other
> glues (yellow, white, or poly) could be used also providing you have a
snug
> fit - which I doubt and have to resort to using a shaving or some other
> means for making the joint a snug fit. The wood will swell using yellow or
> white glues but after awhile, they dry out and the joint then comes apart
> again. You need to remove all the old glue from the joints which if its
the
> original glue is most likely hide glue. A little vinegar and warm water
> will help remove it.
>
> The poly glues (Gorilla brand and others) do foam out giving you the
> impression that they are gap filing - they are not. The walls of the foam
> (bubbles) are not strong.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Dan Parrell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've come across 5 pressback chairs, early 1900's. I'm going to refinish
> > them but first have to strip and re-glue the dowels. I have always put
> faith
> > in the yellow but have seen chairs loosen up again over time.Question
> which
> > is better yellow carpenters grade glue or gorilla ?
> > tks in advance
> > Dan
> >
> >
>
>
Hide glue actually. Chair joints take stresses unknown to other furniture
and no matter what you do use it will loosen in time. A hide glue joint is
reversible.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dan Parrell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've come across 5 pressback chairs, early 1900's. I'm going to refinish
> them but first have to strip and re-glue the dowels. I have always put
faith
> in the yellow but have seen chairs loosen up again over time.Question
which
> is better yellow carpenters grade glue or gorilla ?
> tks in advance
> Dan
>
>