Snapping of screw heads

First thought would be CRAPPY CHEAP screws. Second thought would be
that you are not using a deep enough pilot hole and need to also
engage the clutch on your cordless drill/driver

Many folks/resouces recommend a 1/8th in bit for pilot holes for #8
screws

For the crappy screws, junk 'em and then order some decent ones from
McFeely

John
On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 12:49:15 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
>For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
>stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
>decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
>forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
>further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
>Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
>even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
>here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
>should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
>Thanks
>
>

You are probably using either a drywall screw or a cheap wood screw. Get
some deck screws or higher quality wood screws and the heads won't snap off.

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...
> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes.
> I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I
> read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size
> bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>

Corey wrote:
> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?

1) Pilot hole size needs to vary with hardness of wood

2) A non-power screw driver will give much better control
of the process.

The best way I know of running in a screw with power, speed and
control is a screwdriver in a brace (as in brace-and-bit)

BugBear

Looks like you've solved it. For what it's worth, I hold the screw up to the
light and pass drills in front of it till I get one a gnat's whisker smaller
than the core of the screw thread. For brass screws in hardwood I was tought
to put in a steel screw of the same size first to tap the hole. A bit of
candle wax on the thread helps.

--
Derby, England.

Don't try to email me using "REPLY" as the email address is NoSpam. Our
email address is "thewoodies2 at ntlworld dot com"


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vR9hd.3778$RA4.1296@trnddc06...
> Okay, I see enough comments about quality screws that I will upgrade.
> Probably will try out the McFeely's since several support/recommend.
>
> But I'm continuing for now with the screws I already have (impatience -
want
> to make some progress this weekend). I increased the pilot hole to 1/8"
and
> I was 6 for 6 getting them in. Actually I was 7 for 7. I stripped one
> before it was all the way in, but was able to get it out and its
replacement
> went in without issue. So yes, I definitely see the value in switching to
> the square head in the future.
>
> Thanks for all of the advice.
>
>


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.779 / Virus Database: 526 - Release Date: 19/10/2004

On 2004/10/31 5:56 PM, "Stanley" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Looks like you've solved it. For what it's worth, I hold the screw up to the
> light and pass drills in front of it till I get one a gnat's whisker smaller
> than the core of the screw thread. For brass screws in hardwood I was tought
> to put in a steel screw of the same size first to tap the hole. A bit of
> candle wax on the thread helps.

Bees wax works pretty well and is less likely to cause problems with any
finishes.

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vR9hd.3778$RA4.1296@trnddc06...
> Okay, I see enough comments about quality screws that I will upgrade.
> Probably will try out the McFeely's since several support/recommend.
>
> But I'm continuing for now with the screws I already have (impatience -
want
> to make some progress this weekend). I increased the pilot hole to 1/8"
and
> I was 6 for 6 getting them in. Actually I was 7 for 7. I stripped one
> before it was all the way in, but was able to get it out and its
replacement
> went in without issue. So yes, I definitely see the value in switching to
> the square head in the future.
>
> Thanks for all of the advice.
>
>


There certainly is a difference in screws, but as in all things there's more
than one way to skin a cat. You've figured it out by going to a slightly
larger pilot hole, and all is well. As long as your wood screw drove its
way in (which is obviously did given a stripped screw head), you're good to
go. Higher quality screws aren't going to add anything to the project.
Good lesson in this - you don't always have to go to that higher quality
solution - just figure out how to make what you have work properly and move
on.
--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...

You've had some suggestions for better quality screws. I'm sure you could go
out and find them locally, but if you're not up to that, then you can order
them from Lee Valley.

Standard Screws
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=40966&category=3,41306,41314

Finishing Screws
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=40964&category=3,41306,41314

If the pilot holes are the correct size, and deep enough, perhaps you
are using soft brass screws?

David

Corey wrote:

> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:j46hd.1395
>
> I know the experts will cringe. But as a beginner, my sources for now
will
> come from Lowes/Menards. I'm not ready to move up to specialized ordering
> yet. And I don't recall seeing a special woodworking screw at Lowes.
>
> Any other tips for now besides changing screws? Should I try increasing
the
> pilot hole to 1/8"? Or maybe my pilot hole wasn't deep enough?

With a good screw, the pilot hole and size are OK. The big stores carry
cheap screws. In spite of your comment, you are ready for better quality.
No, you NEED better quality or you will frustrate yourself to no end. Go to
McFeelys, or get Spax screws from Lee Valley.

Also, pay close attention to how you are driving them. Too fast or too much
torque on a drill will cause a snap. You want a nice even pressure and
medium speed. If you are using a drill with a clutch, be sure to set it
properly. If you are screwing in with a corded drill, use caution. If you
are driving by hand, just don't go so damned tight.

Are you using coarse thread screws? Red Oak is hard and should be screwed
with fine thread screws. The coarse threads are for softer material. -dave
"philly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Corey,
>
> In my opinion you should invest in a good countersink set for wood screws
> like Fuller. I had the same problem until I bought my set. Works like a
> dream with any type of wood screw from any source. For #6, #8, #10, and
> #12.
>
> Philly
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...
>> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>>
>> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
>> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
>> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
>> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
>> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>>
>> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes.
> I
>> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I
> read
>> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size
> bit
>> should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>
>

"Jim Behning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What kind of wood? What is the country of origin of the screws? #8
> might be a bit small.


Red Oak for the wood.

No idea on the country origin of the screws. Someone recommended 1.5" #8s a
while back for 3/4" red oak when I was first inquiring about what screws to
use.

I suspect that you don't have a large enough clearance hole in the
first board. You should be able to drop the screw through the
first board to rest in the countersink with no tools.

Are you using the old tapered wood screws? In very hard woods,
they require a tapered lead hole.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]



"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...
> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no
> fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the
> butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling
> a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot,
> followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into
> the holes. I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one
> (tip I read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole?
> What size bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...
> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes.
> I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I
> read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size
> bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?

It is not your holes, probably your screws.
If you are snapping screw heads when screwing #8's into a 3/32" hole you
need to learn a new lesson. Quit using they style screw you are using and
move up to a woodworking screw. Take a look here,
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.5.1.2. And if you are still
using Phillips head screws that will be a good tome to switch to Square head
screws. Most of the screws sold at McFeelys are square drive.

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in news:j46hd.1395$BU6.1305@trnddc05:

<snip>
> I know the experts will cringe. But as a beginner, my sources for now
> will come from Lowes/Menards. I'm not ready to move up to specialized
> ordering yet. And I don't recall seeing a special woodworking screw
> at Lowes.

Corey, Leon gives you good advice, although you'll have to wait for the
McFeeley's order to arrive in the mail.

Jim has one of the great deals in woodworking for the beginner. $10 gets
you a wide assortment of the types of screws woodworkers use, plus his
catalog. It may even come with a coupon, for reordering. I don't
remember. But the quality of the product, and the quality of the
assortment makes it really worth the $10. Jim doesn't likely make a bunch
of money on these - probably loses some. But he makes a bunch of converts.

If you can't wait, then put a couple of the screws you've been using in
your pocket, and go find a hardware store that says something like True
Value, or Ace, or Do It Best on the side, along with an owner's name. Go
find someone who looks like they remember the 50's, and ask them for some
screws like these, only not made of cheap crap. While you're there, find
some furniture or flooring paste wax (Johnson's, TreWax, Butcher's or
similar) Not only will you use it for screw lubrication, but it's a good
last step in the finishing process for your project.

Congratulations on getting this far in the learning process. Solving these
problems is just part of the fun, and one reason we hang out here.

Patriarch

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Well, I am using wood screws vs. a woodworking screw (name on the
package).
> And they are phillips.

In all honesty, they're probably really cheap screws. You don't have to go
to specialized ordering, just source out some better quality screws. You've
already had some suggestions from others here. And yes, I highly recommend
square drive screws ~ easier to drive in, much easier to control. They're
called Robertson up here in Canada. Not sure if they have a specialized name
in the US.

Corey:

Send me an email with your address and I'll get you some samples.

Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
www.mcfeelys.com

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vR9hd.3778$RA4.1296@trnddc06...
> Okay, I see enough comments about quality screws that I will upgrade.
> Probably will try out the McFeely's since several support/recommend.
>
> But I'm continuing for now with the screws I already have (impatience -
want
> to make some progress this weekend). I increased the pilot hole to 1/8"
and
> I was 6 for 6 getting them in. Actually I was 7 for 7. I stripped one
> before it was all the way in, but was able to get it out and its
replacement
> went in without issue. So yes, I definitely see the value in switching to
> the square head in the future.
>
> Thanks for all of the advice.
>
>

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 09:03:07 -0600, "Earl Creel" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Agree with Leon, use McFeelys square drive screws and most of your problems
>with screws will be gone. However, regardless of the screws you are using
>and the wood involved if you proceed as follows you will avoid trouble:
>1. Use scraps of the wood involved to first try out drill sizes...same
>principle as using scraps to try out a new finishing technique...if you
>don't first use scraps them your project boards become an experiment.
>2. First determine the hole size needed in the first board so the unthreaded
>portion of the screw will go in with little or no force required. You need
>a set of drill bits between 1/16 and 1/4 that increase in size by 1/64
>increments. Just keep using larger bits until you get the right sized hole.
>3. Next determine the size of hole needed in the second board. Start with
>a bit about 3/32 smaller than the bit you ended up with in step 2. Try to
>screw one of your screws into this hole using a hand driver so you can feel
>the amount of torque required. If it is too tight try the next size larger
>bit, if too loose try the next size smaller.
>4. Once you have the bit sizes, if you intend to drive the screws with a
>power driver you need to practice screwing two pieces of scrap together and
>get your clutch adjusted so it just barely drives the screws home. If your
>power driver does not have a clutch then be sure to stop before the screw
>bottoms out. Even with a clutch I like to use a hand driver on that last
>turn or two so I can feel when they are tight.
>Earl Creel
>
Earl has some very good ideas, especially testing the screws and holes
on scrap of the wood your project is made of.. gotta remember that
one!

What Earl's post reminded me of is that buying a $5 drill index really
helped me in choosing/sizing drills/dowels, etc...
for example, using Earls' advice, try different screws & drill
sizes... but also run your screw through the drill index and see what
"drill size" the shank is...

I just had to do that with my plug project.. I had the plugs cut but
wasn't sure what hole size they plugged... lol
I used the drill index to find that the "small" end of the plug was
21/64, and drilled my holes to that size.. YMMV

Corey,

In my opinion you should invest in a good countersink set for wood screws
like Fuller. I had the same problem until I bought my set. Works like a
dream with any type of wood screw from any source. For #6, #8, #10, and
#12.

Philly
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fb5hd.3729$RA4.1990@trnddc06...
> Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
> For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
> stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
> decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
> forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
> further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
> Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes.
I
> even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I
read
> here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size
bit
> should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It is not your holes, probably your screws.
> If you are snapping screw heads when screwing #8's into a 3/32" hole you
> need to learn a new lesson. Quit using they style screw you are using and
> move up to a woodworking screw. Take a look here,
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.5.1.2. And if you are
still
> using Phillips head screws that will be a good tome to switch to Square
head
> screws. Most of the screws sold at McFeelys are square drive.
>

Well, I am using wood screws vs. a woodworking screw (name on the package).
And they are phillips.

I know the experts will cringe. But as a beginner, my sources for now will
come from Lowes/Menards. I'm not ready to move up to specialized ordering
yet. And I don't recall seeing a special woodworking screw at Lowes.

Any other tips for now besides changing screws? Should I try increasing the
pilot hole to 1/8"? Or maybe my pilot hole wasn't deep enough?

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:vR9hd.3778$RA4.1296@trnddc06...
> Okay, I see enough comments about quality screws that I will upgrade.
> Probably will try out the McFeely's since several support/recommend.
>
> But I'm continuing for now with the screws I already have (impatience -
> want
> to make some progress this weekend). I increased the pilot hole to 1/8"
> and
> I was 6 for 6 getting them in. Actually I was 7 for 7. I stripped one
> before it was all the way in, but was able to get it out and its
> replacement
> went in without issue. So yes, I definitely see the value in switching to
> the square head in the future.
>
> Thanks for all of the advice.


Gooooooood... ;~) Now the Borg does have square drive screws, known as Deck
Screws. These are OK for pine but still not strong enough for hard woods.

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 13:51:45 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> calmly
ranted:

>Red Oak for the wood.
>
>No idea on the country origin of the screws. Someone recommended 1.5" #8s a
>while back for 3/4" red oak when I was first inquiring about what screws to
>use.

Oak is quite hard, especially on brass screws. Wood screws have
a tapered shank and threaded area, so you need a tapered bit.

Find the proper #8 wood screw boring bit and use that. They're
tapered and many also have a countersink/bore built in.

One example is this set
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=7608


--
"Given the low level of competence among politicians,
every American should become a Libertarian."
-- Charley Reese, Alameda Times-Star (California), June 17, 2003

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 13:50:07 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> It is not your holes, probably your screws.
>> If you are snapping screw heads when screwing #8's into a 3/32" hole you
>> need to learn a new lesson. Quit using they style screw you are using and
>> move up to a woodworking screw. Take a look here,
>> http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.5.1.2. And if you are
>still
>> using Phillips head screws that will be a good tome to switch to Square
>head
>> screws. Most of the screws sold at McFeelys are square drive.
>>
>
>Well, I am using wood screws vs. a woodworking screw (name on the package).
>And they are phillips.
>
>I know the experts will cringe. But as a beginner, my sources for now will
>come from Lowes/Menards. I'm not ready to move up to specialized ordering
>yet. And I don't recall seeing a special woodworking screw at Lowes.
>

Much as you don't like the answer, Leon is correct -- the screws you are
using are the problem. You *might* be able to use Borg-supplied screws if
you do not seat them very tight (kind of defeats the purpose though). I
found that I could not use screws supplied from Home Depot for any purpose
without the heads snapping. I think they are able to get away with this
because most people purchasing the screws are drilling them into the soft,
wet, white wood that the Borg also sells. They definitely won't work in
hardwood *at all* -- DAMHIKT. You are only going to cause yourself much
more work all for the sake of saving a couple of dollars.

>Any other tips for now besides changing screws? Should I try increasing the
>pilot hole to 1/8"? Or maybe my pilot hole wasn't deep enough?
>

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 12:49:15 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:

>For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
>stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
>decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
>forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
>further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
>Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
>even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
>here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
>should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
>
I agree with all of the answers above regarding quality screws -- except
that I think that one can get decent screws at the local hardware store and
even at a Borg.

Fasterner quality, substandard products, and counterfeiting is something I
know something about. Commercial and military airplanes have crashed
because of bad quality fasteners -- and those buyers are supposedly on top
of things and willing to pay. The Borgs may have fastener standards for
the buyers and this time a bad shipment came through. Maybe they have no
quality standards. Don't know.

IME, I've had my biggest quality problems with lag bolts over the years.
But I have very rarely had a problem with screws heads snapping -- screws I
bought at local hardware store or a Borg. Now head stripping, as well as
but stripping -- phillips and square -- is another matter, and that also
is a quality issue.

Depending on your time and level of interest, I'd suggest you tell the
place you bought the screws that they got a bad batch and ask for a refund.
I'd get new screws at the local hardware store for now -- with due, honest
respect for McFeeleys.

As for coarse versus fine threads and proper hole size and shape, I defer
to others here.

YMMV. -- Igor

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 12:49:15 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
>For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
>stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
>decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
>forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
>further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
>Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
>even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
>here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
>should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
>Thanks
>
>
very strange, unless you're using really cheaply made screws or way
over-driving them..
I use mostly sheet rock screws, which are a "no-no" because they're
brittle...
rarely broken one, if anything, the head strips and I change the
screw..

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:j46hd.1395$BU6.1305@trnddc05...
>
> Well, I am using wood screws vs. a woodworking screw (name on the
> package).
> And they are phillips.

Did you get the screws in a small package and at the local Borg? McFeeleys
screw are hardened and seldom break. Yes you are ready to move into
specilized ordering... LOL. You broke 2 screws already right? McFeeleys
screws are probably cheaper than what you are buying now. Typically you can
get 100 screws for about $4-$6. $ to 6 cents each. I pet you paid more
than that for the ones you are using now.

Your pilot hole should be the size of the screw sidth less the threads. You
really should change screws. If you go to McFeeleys, you will wonder how
you got along with out them. They will not let you down.




>
> I know the experts will cringe. But as a beginner, my sources for now
> will
> come from Lowes/Menards. I'm not ready to move up to specialized ordering
> yet. And I don't recall seeing a special woodworking screw at Lowes.
>
> Any other tips for now besides changing screws? Should I try increasing
> the
> pilot hole to 1/8"? Or maybe my pilot hole wasn't deep enough?
>
>

Okay, I see enough comments about quality screws that I will upgrade.
Probably will try out the McFeely's since several support/recommend.

But I'm continuing for now with the screws I already have (impatience - want
to make some progress this weekend). I increased the pilot hole to 1/8" and
I was 6 for 6 getting them in. Actually I was 7 for 7. I stripped one
before it was all the way in, but was able to get it out and its replacement
went in without issue. So yes, I definitely see the value in switching to
the square head in the future.

Thanks for all of the advice.

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:R56hd.1398$BU6.1372@trnddc05...
> "Jim Behning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> What kind of wood? What is the country of origin of the screws? #8
>> might be a bit small.
>
>
> Red Oak for the wood.
>
> No idea on the country origin of the screws. Someone recommended 1.5" #8s
> a
> while back for 3/4" red oak when I was first inquiring about what screws
> to
> use.

#8 is fine for furniture. Generally speaking you want the screw to be 3
times in length as the thickness of the material that you are attaching.

3/4" would normally need a 2.25" long screw.

What kind of wood? What is the country of origin of the screws? #8
might be a bit small.

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Just when I think I have a little momentum...
>
>For background, I'm building a bookcase with butt joints (no fancier,
>stronger joints for this first project). So to reinforce the butts, I
>decided to use wood screws to help secure things. I am drilling a 3/8"
>forstener (that I will later plug), #8 countersink pilot, followed by
>further piloting through the boards with a 3/32" (I think).
>
>Well, I've just snapped off two tops of the screws going into the holes. I
>even tried running the threads along a candle on the second one (tip I read
>here). So what is my problem - not a wide enough pilot hole? What size bit
>should I use for a #8 wood screw?
>
>Thanks
>
>

Agree with Leon, use McFeelys square drive screws and most of your problems
with screws will be gone. However, regardless of the screws you are using
and the wood involved if you proceed as follows you will avoid trouble:
1. Use scraps of the wood involved to first try out drill sizes...same
principle as using scraps to try out a new finishing technique...if you
don't first use scraps them your project boards become an experiment.
2. First determine the hole size needed in the first board so the unthreaded
portion of the screw will go in with little or no force required. You need
a set of drill bits between 1/16 and 1/4 that increase in size by 1/64
increments. Just keep using larger bits until you get the right sized hole.
3. Next determine the size of hole needed in the second board. Start with
a bit about 3/32 smaller than the bit you ended up with in step 2. Try to
screw one of your screws into this hole using a hand driver so you can feel
the amount of torque required. If it is too tight try the next size larger
bit, if too loose try the next size smaller.
4. Once you have the bit sizes, if you intend to drive the screws with a
power driver you need to practice screwing two pieces of scrap together and
get your clutch adjusted so it just barely drives the screws home. If your
power driver does not have a clutch then be sure to stop before the screw
bottoms out. Even with a clutch I like to use a hand driver on that last
turn or two so I can feel when they are tight.
Earl Creel

> It is not your holes, probably your screws.
> If you are snapping screw heads when screwing #8's into a 3/32" hole you
> need to learn a new lesson. Quit using they style screw you are using and
> move up to a woodworking screw. Take a look here,
> http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.5.1.2. And if you are
> still using Phillips head screws that will be a good tome to switch to
> Square head screws. Most of the screws sold at McFeelys are square drive.
>