I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
(1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
the center portion of the top.
I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
Dissapointed (and peeved),
Ken
On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 02:26:29 GMT, Ken Byerly <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
>(1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
>come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
>The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
>the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
>the center portion of the top.
>
>I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
>
>What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
>router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
>
>Dissapointed (and peeved),
>Ken
<http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q=arha&safe=images&ie=UTF-8&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&hl=en>
Ken Byerly <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
> (1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
> come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
> The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
> the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
> the center portion of the top.
>
> I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
>
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
>
> Dissapointed (and peeved),
> Ken
Ken, is this the only bit that slips in your router? The shank could
be undersized, this is not a rare occurence. I read the other posts
that suggest you buy another router,I agree that almost any other
brand will be a better choice. If possible , borrow a router and put
this bit in it. Try it on a scrap piece first. This may save you the
cost of a new router at this time.
mike
[email protected] wrote:
> The bit that cut its'way through a 3/4" slab in Sears router was used
> in a Makita without problems.
>
> On 15 Aug 2004 16:26:00 -0700, [email protected] (mike) wrote:
>
>>Ken, is this the only bit that slips in your router? The shank could
>>be undersized, this is not a rare occurence. I read the other posts
>>that suggest you buy another router,I agree that almost any other
>>brand will be a better choice. If possible , borrow a router and put
>>this bit in it. Try it on a scrap piece first. This may save you the
>>cost of a new router at this time.
>>mike
While its certainly possible to have a bad bit Sears routers commonly have
this problem. Both bits which slipped in my sears work fine in my PC
router and it was amazing at how much of a smoother cut those same bits
make in the PC router. I still shop at Sears, like their wrenches,
sockets, appliances, etc. I have started trying to buy from the one full
time person who always helps me out (even when the other people can't find
something, he will leave the register and walk back and find if for me) so
I voice my concerns to him that I wish they would sell some better quality
power tools, they don't have to replace the current cheap stuff they sell
because there will always be people that want the cheap stuff, but that
they are loosing the higher end market. I also let them know I'd buy more
expensive stuff from them if their credit card department hadn't ripped me
off. Since he knows me and has helped me out a few times and seems to care
more than the rest I hope that he will pass my comments up the chain.
Ken Byerly wrote:
> On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 00:19:20 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies, all. Just an interesting thing, though. The
> same thing happened to me using the same bit in a 1/2 in shank router
> with a reducing collet. Oh well. Thanksfully the craftsman radial
> saw and table saw I have work well!
>>
You can help the issue a bit by taking smaller amounts out of the cut at a
time, but the main issue is its a known problem with craftsman routers. My
craftsman table saw works well too but then I haven't compared it to a
better quality tool either, I'm afraid once I do the difference will be
great like the difference between a sears and other router and I'll need a
better saw then.
"Ken Byerly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
> (1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
> come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
Last sentence is the answer. Craftsman routers have a reputation for doing
just what you experienced.
I'd buy a new and better router by DeWalt, Porter Cable, Bosch, Hitachi,
etc. And I'd also use a 1/2" bit as they hold better. The larger diameter
shaft has more surface area for the collet to grab.
Not a cheap fix, but the only fix I'm certain will work.
Discard the Crapsman and stay out of Sears. It works for me.
But have a heart and do NOT sell or give away your router. It will only
bring misery to someone else.
"Ken Byerly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
> (1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
> come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
> The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
> the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
> the center portion of the top.
>
> I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
>
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
>
> Dissapointed (and peeved),
> Ken
Sorry to hear you say stay out of sears.
I do not buy tools there, but some of their clothing I will buy for
sure. And the reason I took a 180 degree attitude is what sears is doing
for their employees. I know no one working for sears so that is not the
reason. But I do have 3 sons -in - laws in the military and one who just
retired with 20 yrs from the navy. But it was reported on the net that
sears is going to make up the difference of any employee who was in the
national guard and called up. Not only that but their health ins was
being paid by sears till they get back to work.
Now they may not have the best past record for customer service but in
today's
age with companies going off shore to maximize their profit and still
want their
backside covered sears is stepping up to the plate. And I guess the lest
thing I can do Is a little shopping for products that are sold in other
stores. Like same brand products .
It is not hard to make up the difference when you don't pay much to
begin with. The only cases where they might actually need to pay
out a lot money would be in the case of their top-end management
got called up. This is based upon having been a Sears employee
in the early 90's. I doubt much has changed:
- Most employees are part time. Once an employee regularly
works more than 32 hours per week they are eligible for benefits.
The 6 - 12 weeks of 40+ hrs before Xmas is not enough to make
one fall into this bracket.
- When they can get by with minimum wage, they pay it. People
that are employed by Sears for a long time do not make more than
a poverty wage unless they move to management or happen to work
in a commissioned sales role (tools, appliances, furniture, etc.).
Even then, the top tool salesperson I knew did better as bartender
(night job) than he did selling tools.
- I have seen many older and experienced employees pushed out by
forced pay reductions. They were replaced by inexperienced part
timers. In general, would you prefer to buy new furniture from
someone on the beginning of a battle with acne or the end of a
battle with baldness?
- Military pay is not that bad compared to Sears. Let's pretend that
a part time dock worker at Sears makes $15/hr (extremely overpaid to
make a point). So as to not have to pay benefits, this person only
gets 30 hrs per week. There are 4.3 weeks per month. Sears pay is
$1950 per month. Let's pretend this person is an E5 with 10 years
in the reserves or national guard. According to
http://www.defenselink.mil/militarypay/pay/bp/paytables/Jan2004.html
this person would make $2339 (+ dependent allowance, hazardous duty
pay, housing allowance, etc.) per month on active duty. Sears
gets free publicity.
Unfortunately, I don't think poor treatment of employees at Sears
is terribly unique in retail.
Mike
O D wrote:
> Sorry to hear you say stay out of sears.
> I do not buy tools there, but some of their clothing I will buy for
> sure. And the reason I took a 180 degree attitude is what sears is doing
> for their employees. I know no one working for sears so that is not the
> reason. But I do have 3 sons -in - laws in the military and one who just
> retired with 20 yrs from the navy. But it was reported on the net that
> sears is going to make up the difference of any employee who was in the
> national guard and called up. Not only that but their health ins was
> being paid by sears till they get back to work.
> Now they may not have the best past record for customer service but in
> today's
> age with companies going off shore to maximize their profit and still
> want their
> backside covered sears is stepping up to the plate. And I guess the lest
> thing I can do Is a little shopping for products that are sold in other
> stores. Like same brand products .
>
So mike you are talking from experience of 10+ yrs ago? If you look I
said they have a poor past experience with customer relations in the
past. Well I guess you may have been an employee at those times . I said
I would but something that was sold in other stores maybe I should say
except wal-mart. Sears never brought this up or advertised it to my
knowledge, so unless you have info to fact they did I would like to see
it.
For what ever reason sears IS PAYING
That is more than can be said for a lot of companies. They all want to
wear their patriotism on their sleeve but they sure as hell don't want
to pay. It would be very nice to never hear of someone going or trying
to go back to their old job told their job is no longer. I know there
are laws to protect. But how many times does someone have to fight? Does
not make any difference if the employee is part time or not. If his/her
pay was lower the co made up the difference and the health ins. If I can
buy a carhart pair of pants in sears I will. I did not say I would buy
the tools.
And the last point is I guess you never came into the work force
inexperienced?
Or had the beginning of acne? My My how perfect you must have been. No
wonder sears hired you at mininum wge!
Craftsman routers are famous for that.
"Ken Byerly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
> (1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
> come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
> The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
> the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
> the center portion of the top.
>
> I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
>
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
>
> Dissapointed (and peeved),
> Ken
On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 00:19:20 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
Thanks for the replies, all. Just an interesting thing, though. The
same thing happened to me using the same bit in a 1/2 in shank router
with a reducing collet. Oh well. Thanksfully the craftsman radial
saw and table saw I have work well!
>
>
><http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q=arha&safe=images&ie=UTF-8&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&hl=en>
Ken Byerly wrote:
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
I had the same problem with a Craftsman router about a year ago; I believe it's
just a poorly made collet that creates the problem. My solution was to replace
it with two Porter Cable routers: a 691 for hand use and a 7518 to go into a
table with a master lift device permanently.
The 691 came with both a fixed and plunge base and can be used with either 1/4"
or 1/2" bits. I used the occasion to justify replacing my old 1/4" craftsman
bits with better 1/2" bits.
My experience with these two routers has reinforced my determination to buy the
best I can afford instead of just the best deal. I won't be buying much more
from Sears (althouth their new table saws are getting good reviews).
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
Have you cleaned the bit shanks with lac thinner or acetone?
Also clean an oil out of the collet. Tighten down the bit
REALLY well, and if all else fails, mic the shank to see if
it is undersize; otherwise it's time for a new router (NON
Crapsman). I've been there; done that.
I've had ONE bit lift up on me; a dovetail, which are prone
to doing that. The root causes were: that bit is ONLY
available in a 1/4" shank, which I detest, I didn't really
tighten the collet properly, because I'd never have a bit
loosen before (95% of the time I use 1/2" shanks), and the
shank had a bit of oily film on it.
David
Ken Byerly wrote:
> I've been working on a poker table and have had the same router bit
> (1 1/2" pattern cutting bit, 1/4" shank) creep out of the router and
> come through the wood, ruining two pieces now.
>
> The first was one of the place settings for the players (one side of
> the octagonal top), and the second was while routing a rabet around
> the center portion of the top.
>
> I checked the arbor both times and I couldn't tighten it any further.
>
> What causes the bit to creep out like that? Can it be helped? The
> router is a 1.5 HP Craftsman.
>
> Dissapointed (and peeved),
> Ken
The bit that cut its'way through a 3/4" slab in Sears router was used
in a Makita without problems.
On 15 Aug 2004 16:26:00 -0700, [email protected] (mike) wrote:
>Ken, is this the only bit that slips in your router? The shank could
>be undersized, this is not a rare occurence. I read the other posts
>that suggest you buy another router,I agree that almost any other
>brand will be a better choice. If possible , borrow a router and put
>this bit in it. Try it on a scrap piece first. This may save you the
>cost of a new router at this time.
>mike