In article <[email protected]>, Rob H. <[email protected]>
wrote:
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
1856: Platen printing press. I've operated these.
1858: A bottle.
1859: Part of a ratchet assembly, but from what I have no idea.
On Feb 18, 4:44=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
1859 looks similar to an adjusting lever that was used on the farm
when I was a kid. The old Oliver drill my Dad had for planting wheat,
milo and other row crops had a lever similar to 1859 under each drop
tube under the seed box on the drill The lever could be adjusted for
various sizes of seeds. For instance the same drill could be used to
plant different seeds like wheat, rye, barley etc. Other possibilities
come to mind but I associate them all with various types of farm
equipment I worked with.
DL
"Alexander Thesoso" wrote:
> 1856 Printing Press.
Agree.
> 1857 Solid? Brass? Carefully machined threads, keyway, retaining
> clip hole... One with threads cut off? One badly corroded? I'll
> guess parts salvaged from an old naval steam engine.
Gives all the appearances of being a boat shaft; however, if so they
would be bronze, not brass.
Brass and salt water are not compatible.
Lew
On Feb 18, 5:44=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> Rob
1856: Chandler & Price old style printing press. Maybe a 12x16.
1858: Fire grenade?
On Feb 19, 1:25=A0pm, Dust Bunny Queen <[email protected]> wrote:
> > 1887) =A0 Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. =A0I strong=
ly
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval=
bronze".
>
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairl=
y small
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 boats. =A0The tapered and keyed ends of two of them wou=
ld accept
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot acc=
epts a
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. =
=A0The
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the prope=
ller
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts=
a bronze
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
>
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 The upper one appears to be incomplete. =A0It has the k=
ey, but
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 does not appear to have the taper and certainly does no=
t have
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 the threaded section. =A0Perhaps the taper and/or threa=
d was
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it o=
n a lathe
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 to fit a new propeller.
>
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in wat=
er,
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 especially in salt water, while the bronze specified wi=
ll last a
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 long time under water.
>
> We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. =A0The color in the photo is
> correct. A bluish gray. =A0The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
> very heavy. =A0So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
> boat.
>
> You are right. =A0The upper one is incomplete. =A0It appears that the
> machined end had been sawed off at one point. =A0 There is nothing to
> grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
> to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
> in circumfrence on the machined end.
>
> They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
> Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. =A0We have no clue as to
> what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.
>
> Mystery...don't we love it?
>
> Oh...and the printing press is a platen press.....my family was in the
> printing business and we used one in a small printing company and
> weekly newspaper in the 1950's that my parent's operated.
Dang- steering wheel shaft? But why not steel, then...
Dave
On 18 Feb, 10:44, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
#1855 Linstock. Used (on a long wooden staff) for firing older
cannon. The string wrapped around it is a slow-match, soaked in
saltpetre
#1856 Printing press
#1858 Poison bottle, heavy duty. There should be a wicker protective
cage around it.
#1860 Anti-tank landmine
> 1887) =A0 Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. =A0I strongly
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval b=
ronze".
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairly =
small
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 boats. =A0The tapered and keyed ends of two of them would=
accept
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot accep=
ts a
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. =A0=
The
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the propell=
er
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts a=
bronze
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 The upper one appears to be incomplete. =A0It has the key=
, but
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not =
have
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 the threaded section. =A0Perhaps the taper and/or thread =
was
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on =
a lathe
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 to fit a new propeller.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in water=
,
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 especially in salt water, while the bronze specified will=
last a
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 long time under water.
>
>
We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. The color in the photo is
correct. A bluish gray. The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
very heavy. So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
boat.
You are right. The upper one is incomplete. It appears that the
machined end had been sawed off at one point. There is nothing to
grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
in circumfrence on the machined end.
They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. We have no clue as to
what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.
Mystery...don't we love it?
Oh...and the printing press is a platen press.....my family was in the
printing business and we used one in a small printing company and
weekly newspaper in the 1950's that my parent's operated.
"Andrew Erickson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Rob H." <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> This week's set has been posted:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
> 1855 - Stirrup for a saddle, with an incongruous piece of baling twine
> wrapped around it? Early and unsuccessful prototype slingshot?
Muffled rowlock, with most of the rope missing?
http://www.maritimeheritageeast.org.uk/archive/rowlocks-or-oarlocks
1855 No idea
1856 old manual printing press. Like the one in the Apple Dumpling Gang.
1857 no idea, but I like the idea that it was a tamp to put explosives
in a drilled hole to cut rock at a quarry or open up a tunnel in a mine.
1858 High voltage power line insulator.
1859 some sort of hand cam lock for a machine with 1 - 6 speeds forward?
and one reverse. X = Park or lock??
1860 When I first looked I thought land mine. Others who have posted
thought the same thing. So I agree 8>)
Mike in Ohio
Rob H. wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
"DoN. Nichols" <[email protected]> fired this volley in
news:[email protected]:
> An old printing press. Not sure whether this is an offset
> press or not, but I am sure that it is a printing press.
No offset blanket, no offset roller. "Offset" printing involves printing
a negative image from a "plate" onto a "web" or "blanket" (often of
rubber), then impressing that rubber sheet against the paper to create
the positive copy. It also usually involves an ink-acceptor "plate"
photo-engraved with the print image - instead of type - that uses water
to repel ink from the areas that shouldn't accept ink.
This press just smunges ink around the spinning inking plate with a
brayer-like inking roller, then the roller transfers it to a frame of
movable type or an etched type plate (or counterfeit bill plate <G>),
which impresses the image directly onto the paper.
LLoyd
LLoyd
In article <[email protected]>, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>This week's set has been posted:
>
>http://55tools.blogspot.com/
1855: Trailer hitch
1856: Press
1857: Part of an engine, maybe?
1858: Sometimes a bottle is just a bottle
1859: Part of an adjustable wrench
1860: Well, it's orange. Perhaps a potters wheel motor?
--
The problem with socialism is there's always
someone with less ability and more need.
In article <[email protected]>, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>1856: Chandler & Price old style printing press. Maybe a 12x16.
>
>Not sure if it's a C&P, I'll take your word for it.
It sure looks like a C&P, either that or it's an _awfully_ good imitation. :)
In article <[email protected]>, "Rob H." <[email protected]>
wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
1855 - Stirrup for a saddle, with an incongruous piece of baling twine
wrapped around it? Early and unsuccessful prototype slingshot?
1856 - Printing press; the ink rollers are immediately visible, the ink
goes on the round plate at the top, and the paper to be printed goes in
the slot just underneath the rollers. Pressing the foot pedal would
presumably start the action, and cause the ink rollers to move down and
ink the type (also in the slot area) and then press the paper against
the inked type, probably breaking off any fingers that also happened to
straggle in the way.
1857 - Maybe tamper rods for setting blasting charges when mining rock?
Brass would avoid the problem of striking sparks while tamping, while
being heavier than wood (which is not uncommonly used).
1858 - I'd say it's a bottle, but that seems far to easy. Maybe instead
it's a weight for tying on the end of a rope to keep it taut.
1859 - Maybe an anti-kickback dog for a sawmill? Maybe a latching lever
for an old hand brake lever or similar, presumably engaging against a
toothed quadrant?
1860 - Seed dusting apparatus (for applying fungicides or other powdered
chemicals)?
--
Andrew Erickson
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot
1856 Printing Press.
1857 Solid? Brass? Carefully machined threads, keyway, retaining clip
hole... One with threads cut off? One badly corroded? I'll guess parts
salvaged from an old naval steam engine.
1858 Old roman oil bottle.
1859 One-way feed sprag/dog from an old wood planer/miller. Though the
hole seems a bit feeble compared with the robustness of the part.
1860 Demonstration land mine.
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
Rob H. wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1855: Used on a "broomstick" for handling animals? It could be to catch
a goat's leg to prevent kicking. It could be to pin a neck to the ground.
Domestic 19th Century poultry such as turkeys and ducks may have been
hard to catch even when cornered. Chickens are hooked by the leg, but
ducks and turkeys are often lame, indicating that their legs are easily
injured. If you used this device to pin a bird's neck to the ground,
would it be able to back out before you could grab it?
In rec.crafts.metalworking Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
1857 looks like the rod used in fire hydrants, except for the really short
lengths.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Alexander Thesoso" wrote:
>
>> 1856 Printing Press.
>
> Agree.
>
>> 1857 Solid? Brass? Carefully machined threads, keyway, retaining
>> clip hole... One with threads cut off? One badly corroded? I'll
>> guess parts salvaged from an old naval steam engine.
>
> Gives all the appearances of being a boat shaft; however, if so they
> would be bronze, not brass.
>
> Brass and salt water are not compatible.
If they're either brass _or_ bronze the color rendition is all fouled up
methinks.
Indescript shafts off most any piece of equipment; look like been cut
off on other end; would expect keyways or other fittings as well. Not
many shafts have one end keyed/threaded and the other end just a bare
shaft; there's nothing to hold it in place or for it to do but rotate;
it can't transmit power to/from anything unless there was a press fit on
the other end.
--
1855. Totally no clue.
1856. I have used devices similar to this, and I
won't spill the beans for everyone.
1857, no clue
1858, no clue
1859 looks like a brake release for a wagon's hand
brake.
1860 with that yellow paint, might be a top of a
drum for hazardous materials.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
This week's set has been posted:
http://55tools.blogspot.com/
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Rob
1855: How about a match? One way to get rid of a nest of tent
caterpillars is to fasten a cloth to the end of a long stick, dip it in
lamp oil, light it, hold the flame under the nest, and try to save the
cloth by dunking in water. If somebody routinely had to burn something
from several feet away, this could be an improvement.
dpb wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Alexander Thesoso" wrote:
>>
>>> 1856 Printing Press.
>>
>> Agree.
>>
>>> 1857 Solid? Brass? Carefully machined threads, keyway, retaining
>>> clip hole... One with threads cut off? One badly corroded? I'll
>>> guess parts salvaged from an old naval steam engine.
>>
>> Gives all the appearances of being a boat shaft; however, if so they
>> would be bronze, not brass.
>>
>> Brass and salt water are not compatible.
>
> If they're either brass _or_ bronze the color rendition is all fouled up
> methinks.
>
> Indescript shafts off most any piece of equipment; look like been cut
> off on other end; would expect keyways or other fittings as well. Not
> many shafts have one end keyed/threaded and the other end just a bare
> shaft; there's nothing to hold it in place or for it to do but rotate;
> it can't transmit power to/from anything unless there was a press fit on
> the other end.
OK, hadn't looked at the closeup view; they're tapered for bearing; need
closeup of other ends to have much hope of any specific application
unless there are hints from where they were obtained, etc.
--
Dust Bunny Queen wrote:
>> 1887) Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. I strongly
>> suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval bronze".
...
>> The upper one appears to be incomplete. It has the key, but
>> does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not have
>> the threaded section. Perhaps the taper and/or thread was
>> damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on a lathe
>> to fit a new propeller.
...
>>
> We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. The color in the photo is
> correct. A bluish gray. The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
> very heavy. So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
> boat.
Well, a prop shaft for a "large" boat would be many multiples of
diameter than these...
> You are right. The upper one is incomplete. It appears that the
> machined end had been sawed off at one point. There is nothing to
> grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
> to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
> in circumfrence on the machined end.
>
> They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
> Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. We have no clue as to
> what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.
>
> Mystery...don't we love it?
...
I'd still want to see the other ends in closeup. They had to attach to
or be supported by something and w/o that clue think it's an impossible
quest.
The equipment dealer doesn't surprise me at all--perhaps they're
hydraulic piston shafts if they're really not steel altho most of them
recently (like last 50 years were chromed). Again, there would have to
be other stuff on other end for seals, etc., ..., that isn't shown.
--
> I'd still want to see the other ends in closeup. They had to attach to
> or be supported by something and w/o that clue think it's an impossible
> quest.
Here is a shot of the other end of one of the rods, not really any details
to see on it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v80/harnett65/Album11/pic1857rd.jpg
Still not sure about the two unidentified items but the rest of them have
been answered correctly:
http://55tools.blogspot.com/2010/02/set-324.html#answers
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>
>> I'd still want to see the other ends in closeup. They had to attach to
>> or be supported by something and w/o that clue think it's an
>> impossible quest.
>
>
> Here is a shot of the other end of one of the rods, not really any
> details to see on it:
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v80/harnett65/Album11/pic1857rd.jpg
...
OK, so assuming there's not another end whacked off previously these had
to be mounted in a clamping arrangement which presumes there were likely
fixed and whatever rotated was turned by gear or belt drive. Perhaps
all they were was an tensioner idler shaft in a power drive? If indeed
are bronze perhaps was a nautical application; that gets beyond my realm
quickly.
--
DoN. Nichols wrote:
...
> I suspect that this is intended to be welded onto the rest of
> the propeller shaft in the boat as easier than replacing the whole
> length of the propeller shaft -- and perhaps having to duplicate
> whatever coupling to the engine was actually in use.
...
That's actually a pretty good thought/suspect...would resolve the problem.
--
dpb wrote:
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
> ...
>> I suspect that this is intended to be welded onto the rest of
>> the propeller shaft in the boat as easier than replacing the whole
>> length of the propeller shaft -- and perhaps having to duplicate
>> whatever coupling to the engine was actually in use.
> ...
>
> That's actually a pretty good thought/suspect...would resolve the problem.
>
>
You are all on the wrong track for the inboard end coupling. Two years
ago I fitted a new shaft to our boat that apart from the exact
dimensions and material could have passed for one of those. Mine was
3/4" dia stainless to handle 9HP. Bronze shafts for the same power
would be 1" dia upwards. This is the type of coupling I used.
<http://www.randdmarine.com/SSHCOUPLINGS/sshcouplingspop.asp>
It replaced one that was indistinguishable apart from the excessive rust.
More info here:
<http://www.randdmarine.com/downloads/RandD_Steel.pdf>
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
...
> O.K. So we finally have someone who *knows* how it is done,
> instead of just speculating as I have been doing based on the knowledge
> that bronze is good for marine use, and the tapered end to fit the
> propeller.
...
And my near-nothing knowledge of marine applications but knowing there
had to be something other than just the shown shaft ends... :)
--
dpb wrote:
> DoN. Nichols wrote:
> ...
>> O.K. So we finally have someone who *knows* how it is done,
>> instead of just speculating as I have been doing based on the knowledge
>> that bronze is good for marine use, and the tapered end to fit the
>> propeller.
> ...
> And my near-nothing knowledge of marine applications but knowing there
> had to be something other than just the shown shaft ends... :)
>
> --
I should point out that it would only be a simple clamp on coupling with
no key for relatively low power applications: small to medium yachts and
displacement motor boats usually with one or two cylinder diesels. ALL
the larger couplings from R&D marine either are clamp on with a keyway
or are supplied pilot bored and will have a taper + keyway machined to
fit a shaft prepared similar to the propeller end (best if identical as
then the shaft can be swapped end for end when it gets worn).
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
IanM wrote:
...
> I should point out that it would only be a simple clamp on coupling with
> no key for relatively low power applications: small to medium yachts and
> displacement motor boats usually with one or two cylinder diesels. ALL
> the larger couplings from R&D marine either are clamp on with a keyway
> or are supplied pilot bored and will have a taper + keyway machined to
> fit a shaft prepared similar to the propeller end (best if identical as
> then the shaft can be swapped end for end when it gets worn).
Yes, I would have presumed that as well...my essentially my only
experience w/ props is watching the machining of experimental very low
turbulence noise versions for Navy sub's in the Y-12 facility in Oak
Ridge a number of years ago. At something approaching an individual's
height per blade, they were sized for quite significantly larger shafts
than these... :)
--
On 2010-02-18, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
> This week's set has been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/
Posting from rec.crafts.metalworking as always.
1885) Looks like a socket in the handle, so (assuming that
the rope does not belong) I think that it might be for
handling a vessel for melting and pouring metal used in casting.
The eyes (are they fully closed eyes, or hooks?) fit over studs
on the sides of the vessel, so the vessel remains level as you
lift it clear of the furnace, yet allow tilting it sideways.
1886) An old printing press. Not sure whether this is an offset
press or not, but I am sure that it is a printing press.
1887) Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. I strongly
suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval bronze".
And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairly small
boats. The tapered and keyed ends of two of them would accept
the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot accepts a
key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. The
threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the propeller
firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts a bronze
cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
The upper one appears to be incomplete. It has the key, but
does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not have
the threaded section. Perhaps the taper and/or thread was
damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on a lathe
to fit a new propeller.
Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in water,
especially in salt water, while the bronze specified will last a
long time under water.
1888) An apocothery bottle? For whatever reason, I expect it to
have contained ammonia based on the color.
1889) A pawl which is part of a gripping device. There is a flat
plate approximately tangent to the curve of the toothed section
shown, and the toothed section pivots away from the flat section
when the gripped part is moved from left to right, but pivots
towards it and digs the teeth in when the motion is in the other
direction. Some would have a spring to hold them closed. Some
might have a cable to release the grip. This one looks as
though it is simply counterbalanced so the grip with no motion
will be fairly light.
1890) Hmm ... could this be an anti-vehicular mine? It is buried in
the area where the vehicle is expected, and either pressure on
the ring transmitted via the cross-bars trips the explosive, or
a magnetic sensor telling it that there is a lot of steel or
iron above it.
I've seen equipment designed to bury these in a row, but the
examples were OD in color, not this bright orange/yellow. The
shape and size is about right however.
Now to see what others have suggested.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
On 2010-02-19, Dust Bunny Queen <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 1887) Hmm .... I personally doubt that these are brass. I strongly
>> suspect that they are bronze instead -- probably "naval bronze".
>>
>> And -- I think that they are propeller shafts for fairly small
>> boats. The tapered and keyed ends of two of them would accept
>> the propeller with a tapered hole, and the key slot accepts a
>> key to keep the propeller from rotating on the shaft. The
>> threaded end accepts a castelated nut to pull the propeller
>> firmly on the shaft, and the cross-drilled hole accepts a bronze
>> cotter key to keep the nut from unscrewing.
>>
>> The upper one appears to be incomplete. It has the key, but
>> does not appear to have the taper and certainly does not have
>> the threaded section. Perhaps the taper and/or thread was
>> damaged and sawn off in preparation for re-turning it on a lathe
>> to fit a new propeller.
>>
>> Normal brass has zinc in it, which dissolved out in water,
>> especially in salt water, while the bronze specified will last a
>> long time under water.
>>
>>
> We are checking to confirm brass or bronze. The color in the photo is
> correct. A bluish gray.
Probably reasonable for bronze which has been exposed to salt
water for some time. The "bluish" part is a salt of the copper
component of the bronze. I've actually got some Naval Bronze of that
color, bought from eBay and I use it a few inches at a time for projects
as the need occurs.
> The are over 3 1/2 feet long and solid. Very
> very heavy. So I doubt they are propeller shafts for any 'small'
> boat.
Well ... that would probably be a reasonable size for about a
35' power boat. Remember -- it has to exit the hull below water through
a "stuffing box" to prevent flow of water into the hull. And the motor
is better a bit closer to the center of the boat to keep the balance
better, so long propeller shafts make sense. Actually longer than that,
and I suspect that whatever coupling was on the other end has been sawn
off -- perhaps to replace the propeller end with ones which have less
wear where they go through the suffing box.
> You are right. The upper one is incomplete. It appears that the
> machined end had been sawed off at one point. There is nothing to
> grip on or get any traction on the larger plain end if the intent was
> to turn the rods from that end. The rods are tapered: being narrower
> in circumfrence on the machined end.
And how clean a cut at the non-machined end? Does it look
turned, or hacksawn?
> They come from an estate of a 89 year old man who was a former John
> Deere and CAT dealer and an ultimate pack rat. We have no clue as to
> what the rods usage was or what they belonged to as a machinery part.
Did he have a lathe? Material like that is nice to have for
turning projects. A very high quality bronze at typically low prices
because it is no longer suitable for the propeller shaft application
thanks to wear where it exited through the suffing box.
> Mystery...don't we love it?
:-)
> Oh...and the printing press is a platen press.....my family was in the
> printing business and we used one in a small printing company and
> weekly newspaper in the 1950's that my parent's operated.
O.K. Thanks.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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On 2010-02-19, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I'd still want to see the other ends in closeup. They had to attach to
>> or be supported by something and w/o that clue think it's an impossible
>> quest.
>
>
> Here is a shot of the other end of one of the rods, not really any details
> to see on it:
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v80/harnett65/Album11/pic1857rd.jpg
O.K. Some hints of it being cut off by a power hacksaw or stock
cutting bandsaw. This may mean that these are intended to be used as
replacements for the part of worn propeller shafts which protrudes
through the stuffing box.
I suspect that this is intended to be welded onto the rest of
the propeller shaft in the boat as easier than replacing the whole
length of the propeller shaft -- and perhaps having to duplicate
whatever coupling to the engine was actually in use.
Perhaps, it gets an appropriate flange coupling, perhaps a
universal joint, welded in place when it gets put into service. It is
left blank for the moment because while the taper for the propeller
mount may match a standard for that size, there may be multiple
standards for the coupling to the motor (and clutch or gearbox which may
or may not be also present).
Enjoy,
DoN.
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On 2010-02-22, IanM <[email protected]> wrote:
> dpb wrote:
>> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>> ...
>>> I suspect that this is intended to be welded onto the rest of
>>> the propeller shaft in the boat as easier than replacing the whole
>>> length of the propeller shaft -- and perhaps having to duplicate
>>> whatever coupling to the engine was actually in use.
>> ...
>>
>> That's actually a pretty good thought/suspect...would resolve the problem.
>>
>>
>
> You are all on the wrong track for the inboard end coupling. Two years
> ago I fitted a new shaft to our boat that apart from the exact
> dimensions and material could have passed for one of those. Mine was
> 3/4" dia stainless to handle 9HP. Bronze shafts for the same power
> would be 1" dia upwards. This is the type of coupling I used.
>
><http://www.randdmarine.com/SSHCOUPLINGS/sshcouplingspop.asp>
O.K. So we finally have someone who *knows* how it is done,
instead of just speculating as I have been doing based on the knowledge
that bronze is good for marine use, and the tapered end to fit the
propeller.
However, based on the sawn off threaded part, I suspect that the
fellow who had them had them for stock for making projects instead of as
actual replacement propeller shafts.
Thanks for the information,
DoN.
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