GG

Greg Guarino

05/03/2012 4:01 AM

Gluing to finished wood

I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces of t=
he original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do the job wi=
th angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where no one would see=
it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that would work. The connec=
tion points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x 2", attached to the face of =
finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.


This topic has 6 replies

FH

Father Haskell

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

06/03/2012 6:58 PM

On Mar 5, 9:59=A0am, Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/5/2012 7:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>
> > On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> >> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces
> >> of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do
> >> the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where
> >> no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that
> >> would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x
> >> 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight=
.
>
> > Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bar=
e
> > wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.
>
> I doubt I'll go that route, since there's an easier option (screws and
> brackets).
>
> But for future reference, what would you use to mask the area? If it was
> bigger, I suppose I could mostly avoid the edges. But for such a small
> patch, what would be both thin enough and tough enough to protect the
> surrounding wood and still allow the kind of aggressive sanding it would
> take to go through a few coats of poly?

Narrow sanding block or beater chisel used as a scraper.

Best "masking tape" would be a couple of 1x2's clamped
to either side of the area.

> Oh, and when you said "and or", did you mean that epoxy would adhere
> properly to the finished surface?

Got some 5 minute epoxy? Give it a test. Likely, you're
going to have to scrape.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

05/03/2012 6:22 AM

On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.

Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bare
wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

05/03/2012 9:36 AM

On 3/5/2012 8:59 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/5/2012 7:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces
>>> of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do
>>> the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where
>>> no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that
>>> would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x
>>> 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.
>>
>> Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bare
>> wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.
>
> I doubt I'll go that route, since there's an easier option (screws and
> brackets).
>
> But for future reference, what would you use to mask the area? If it was
> bigger, I suppose I could mostly avoid the edges. But for such a small
> patch, what would be both thin enough and tough enough to protect the
> surrounding wood and still allow the kind of aggressive sanding it would
> take to go through a few coats of poly?

The masking, with masking tape, can protect the area masked should stray
slightly. You would still need to be careful however if you slipped
once or twice the tape would probably help.

>
> Oh, and when you said "and or", did you mean that epoxy would adhere
> properly to the finished surface?

I think Epoxy would probably stick to either surface, finished or not.

GG

Greg Guarino

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

05/03/2012 9:59 AM

On 3/5/2012 7:22 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces
>> of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do
>> the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where
>> no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that
>> would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x
>> 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.
>
> Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bare
> wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.

I doubt I'll go that route, since there's an easier option (screws and
brackets).

But for future reference, what would you use to mask the area? If it was
bigger, I suppose I could mostly avoid the edges. But for such a small
patch, what would be both thin enough and tough enough to protect the
surrounding wood and still allow the kind of aggressive sanding it would
take to go through a few coats of poly?

Oh, and when you said "and or", did you mean that epoxy would adhere
properly to the finished surface?

LB

Larry Blanchard

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

05/03/2012 5:17 PM

On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 04:01:51 -0800, Greg Guarino wrote:

> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces
> of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do the
> job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where no one
> would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that would
> work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x 2",
> attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.

I've had pretty good luck with liquid hide glue on surfaces finished with
shellac. But, as in your case, they were not load bearing joints. I
don't know if it would work on poly.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Sk

Swingman

in reply to Greg Guarino on 05/03/2012 4:01 AM

05/03/2012 10:07 AM

On 3/5/2012 8:59 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/5/2012 7:22 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/5/2012 6:01 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> I need to attach a new piece to some old cabinets I made. The surfaces
>>> of the original cabinets have (18 year old) poly on them. I could do
>>> the job with angle brackets - it would be inside the cabinets, where
>>> no one would see it - but I wonder if there's some kind of glue that
>>> would work. The connection points would be bare plywood edge, 3/4" x
>>> 2", attached to the face of finished birch ply. It will hold no weight.
>>
>> Mask off the attachment point on the finished wood and sand that to bare
>> wood. And or use Epoxy as your adhesive.
>
> I doubt I'll go that route, since there's an easier option (screws and
> brackets).
>
> But for future reference, what would you use to mask the area? If it was
> bigger, I suppose I could mostly avoid the edges. But for such a small
> patch, what would be both thin enough and tough enough to protect the
> surrounding wood and still allow the kind of aggressive sanding it would
> take to go through a few coats of poly?
>
> Oh, and when you said "and or", did you mean that epoxy would adhere
> properly to the finished surface?

Try "Quick-Set CA glue" (cyanoacrylate adhesive). It will adhere to most
finished surfaces, particularly if there is no stress involved.

While having done this many times when adding pre-finished trim to
pieces that have already been finished, I often take the opportunity to
also use a pin nailer at the same time.

YMMV ...

Be sure to get the thick variety. Rockler or WoodCraft should have it.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
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