It would me much easier and faster to just set the fence once and rip.
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A slightly cheaper version that works as well:
>
>
>
> http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip111700wb.html
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
>>not
>>even a hint of a problem.
>
> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
No one asked how.
Take a 2x4 about 18 inches long. Attach a piece of plywood or whatever is
handy to the end so it hangs below the 2x4 by about 1/4 inch. Attach handle
to top if desired (recommended). You now have a push block. Set fence, raise
blade about 1/8 above stock thickness and push it through using the push
block. Keep bloc against fence when doing so. The block pushes both cutoff
and waste clear through the blade while holding the stock down. Complete
control and no kickback. This technique is at least 40 years old. Probably
older but that is the first time I saw it.
On Nov 16, 6:03=A0pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and =
not
> >even a hint of a problem.
>
> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
I do the same thing. I use a zero-clearance insert and a push stick
that sits on top of as well as behind the board. I usually rip my
edging to a strong 1/8" though, not a sixteenth.
JP
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>
> A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
It is cool but after seeing it some time back I decided to go with the
Rockler jig which is essentially the same and only $15. I think I am ahead
on that one.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
>>not
>>even a hint of a problem.
>
> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
I am guessing he may be missing the point. From CW's description I would
say that he is simply cutting strips exactly the same way you would rip a 2"
wide piece.
But there is a problem with that. Because more push goes agains the waste
side, the wast tends to grind a bit more against the blade and thends to
loose it's straight edge. OK for a few passes but yesterday I was doing 12
passes from a single 1x6 and surely would have had pieces that were
inconsistant in thickness from one end to the other had I cut them against
the fence. Been there, done that.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
>>>not
>>>even a hint of a problem.
>>
>> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
>> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
>
>
>
> I am guessing he may be missing the point. From CW's description I would
> say that he is simply cutting strips exactly the same way you would rip a
> 2" wide piece.
>
> But there is a problem with that. Because more push goes agains the waste
> side, the wast tends to grind a bit more against the blade and thends to
> loose it's straight edge. OK for a few passes but yesterday I was doing
> 12 passes from a single 1x6 and surely would have had pieces that were
> inconsistant in thickness from one end to the other had I cut them against
> the fence. Been there, done that.
>
If you have your push block pushing both sides of the part, how does it cut
unequally?
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> If you have your push block pushing both sides of the part, how does it
> cut unequally?
>
>
I don't know, I t just does for me most of the time... I'm not an astro
phiziestis,, phyesist, physesis,
Once parts start getting to thin between the fence and blade the push block
does not have a lot of grab. YMMV
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW wrote:
>
>> I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
>> not even a hint of a problem.
>
> Myself ... just did a bunch of 3/16", 1/4" and 2/8" strips for trim, about
> 200lf. I use either the Gripper, and/or a thin push stick when necessary,
> precisely the desired width from end to end.
>
> I find that the repeated fence settings with these jigs cause small, but
> aggravating variations in width that either waste stock, or bite you in
> the butt when you least expect it.
That is why you cut'm a tad strong and then run them through your "drum
sander". ;~)
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
I am just the opposite, I basically built a house full of furniture with my
RAS. 4 years later I bought a TS and never used the RAS again. Sold the
RAS 3 years later and have never regretted it. About 10 years ago I added a
12" CMS and stand for long pieces, it now sets in the store room, seldom
used.
>
> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that are
> trivial on an RAS.
So you are ripping in the cross cut position? Can you explain how it is
easier to rip narrower pieces on the RAS
I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and not
even a hint of a problem.
"Greg G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW said:
>
>>It would me much easier and faster to just set the fence once and rip.
>
> Except this is for multiple strips/cuts. You'd have to reset the fence
> accurately each time or cut with the waste on the fence side which is
> susceptible to "kickback." 1/4" strips are hard to do that way.
>
>
> Greg G.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>
> A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
Sure looks like an good way to waste time.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
>> I am guessing he may be missing the point. From CW's description I would
>> say that he is simply cutting strips exactly the same way you would rip a
>> 2" wide piece.
>>
>> But there is a problem with that. Because more push goes agains the
>> waste side, the wast tends to grind a bit more against the blade and
>> thends to loose it's straight edge. OK for a few passes but yesterday I
>> was doing 12 passes from a single 1x6 and surely would have had pieces
>> that were inconsistant in thickness from one end to the other had I cut
>> them against the fence. Been there, done that.
>
> LOL ... different strokes! It's when I don't cut them against the fence
> that I get inconsistent widths. :)
Yeah, I do actually use the fence on down to 1/4" under that I go outside
the blade and fence. I don't wanna chew up my Gripper.
I find that there is the problem of keeping up with the small bit of wood
left at the end of the waste side, some times it does not get cut off,
sometimes it flares at the end.
A few years ago I noticed that the "correct way" to cut veneers according to
the Laguna video is to readjust the fence with each pass. I suspect that
because you don't/can't use a splitter with a BS the waste side eventually
becomes bowed or tapered after several passes. Laguna eventually came up
with a solution for adjusting the fence, "an accessory fence". LOL
Pretty cool, it uses an adjustment wheel to move the fence for quick
adjustments when cutting veneers on the out side of the blade.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> It is cool but after seeing it some time back I decided to go with the
>> Rockler jig which is essentially the same and only $15. I think I am
>> ahead on that one.
>
> Their current version is $24 which is still not bad, but that takes all
> the fun out of it.
>
>
> Lew
Inflation takes the fun out of everything. ;~(
On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and not
>even a hint of a problem.
Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
Yeah cool concept but I have been using my combo square to do the same
thing for 20 years since shown by an ole timer. I just use it to set
the fence. You just put the cast edge in the slot and adjust the rule
to extend over to where you want it. Once set to the right poaition
you just hook it in the slot, slide the board and fence to touch. Lock
the fence, set the square aside. Rip, rinse and repeat.
Also, I don't really like the concept of the material being pinched
from two sides on a tables saw. I rarely use feathers for the same
reason. Just looks too tempting to create a bind and kick back..
On Nov 12, 8:55=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>
> A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>
> Lew
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>>
>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that are
>> trivial on an RAS.
>
> Even if the are longer, you can turn it to rip mode, run the first
> strip, then use that strip and a space on the fence to run the next.
Define a "space", width of the blade? Does that space not increase the
width of the blade with each pass of the board?
Yes of course in front of the the blade. I do on occasion use them and
have never seen a problem. It is just an emotional thing. I have a
rule that when my balls start to crawl up inside during any operation,
I listen to them and find a different way to do the operation and for
some reason the look of that setup always bugs me.
On Nov 13, 10:33=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > Also, I don't really like the concept of the material being pinched
> > from two sides on a tables saw. I rarely use feathers for the same
> > reason. Just looks too tempting to create a bind and kick back..
>
> Different strokes, but I don't understand the problem?
>
> Properly used (in front of the blade) there should be no issue with a
> feather board on a TS. Been using feather boards on table saws for 40
> years ... there are just too many applications where using one is like
> having an extra hand, often increasing safety instead of detracting from =
it.
>
> If for some reason there could be a problem with wood closing up on the
> back of the blade (case hardened material, reaction wood), you should be
> using a splitter in any event.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Leon wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>>
>> A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>>
>
> It is cool but after seeing it some time back I decided to go with the
> Rockler jig which is essentially the same and only $15. I think I am
> ahead on that one.
Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that are
trivial on an RAS.
J. Clarke wrote:
> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>
> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that are
> trivial on an RAS.
>
Even if the are longer, you can turn it to rip mode, run the first
strip, then use that strip and a space on the fence to run the next.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>>
>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that
>> are trivial on an RAS.
>>
>
> Even if the are longer, you can turn it to rip mode, run the first
> strip, then use that strip and a space on the fence to run the next.
That's a lot less trivial though.
J. Clarke wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>>>
>>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that
>>> are trivial on an RAS.
>>>
>> Even if the are longer, you can turn it to rip mode, run the first
>> strip, then use that strip and a space on the fence to run the next.
>
> That's a lot less trivial though.
Oh, you're going for trivial?
I gots me plenty of that.
I'm pastor of that church. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> J. Clarke wrote:
>>> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>>>
>>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that are
>>> trivial on an RAS.
>> Even if the are longer, you can turn it to rip mode, run the first
>> strip, then use that strip and a space on the fence to run the next.
>
>
> Define a "space", width of the blade? Does that space not increase the
> width of the blade with each pass of the board?
>
Brainfart.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>> Getting an RAS before a table saw has me _so_ spoiled . . .
>
> I am just the opposite, I basically built a house full of furniture
> with my RAS. 4 years later I bought a TS and never used the RAS
> again. Sold the RAS 3 years later and have never regretted it.
> About 10 years ago I added a 12" CMS and stand for long pieces, it
> now sets in the store room, seldom used.
>
>>
>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that
>> are trivial on an RAS.
>
>
> So you are ripping in the cross cut position? Can you explain how it
> is easier to rip narrower pieces on the RAS
(1) clamp a piece of scrap to the fence--cut.
That gives you a reference surface at the cut line.
(2) put a spacer of the appropriate thickness at the other end of the scrap.
If no spacer, then set a caliper to the required thickness and use it
for the spacer.
(3) Clamp a scrap on the other side of the spacer.
(4) Remove spacer, move original scrap and reclamp.
(5) Put stock against end of clamped scrap.
(6) Cut
(7) remove piece that was cut.
(8) Until done, GOTO 5.
Other than the saw, the only jigging you need is a couple of clamps, a piece
of scrap, and something to set the thickness by.
It takes longer to describe than to do.
Leon wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that
>>>> are trivial on an RAS.
>>>
>>>
>>> So you are ripping in the cross cut position? Can you explain how
>>> it is easier to rip narrower pieces on the RAS
>>
>> (1) clamp a piece of scrap to the fence--cut.
>> That gives you a reference surface at the cut line.
>> (2) put a spacer of the appropriate thickness at the other end of the
>> scrap.
>> If no spacer, then set a caliper to the required thickness and
>> use it for the spacer.
>> (3) Clamp a scrap on the other side of the spacer.
>> (4) Remove spacer, move original scrap and reclamp.
>> (5) Put stock against end of clamped scrap.
>> (6) Cut
>> (7) remove piece that was cut.
>> (8) Until done, GOTO 5.
>>
>> Other than the saw, the only jigging you need is a couple of clamps,
>> a piece
>> of scrap, and something to set the thickness by.
>>
>> It takes longer to describe than to do.
>
> I'm sure and I under stand the concept.
>
> Are you ripping strips in the cross cut set up position?
Yep.
> If so, what holds the stock once it becomes 3/4 wide or narrower?
Another scrap with a rabbet sized to the thickness of the stock.
On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:55:57 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>
>A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
A Most Excellent idea, sir. Kudos to both you and Woodsmith for
sharing it with us, too. That's much safer than running narrow strips
next to the fence.
--
You know, in about 40 years, we'll have literally thousands of
OLD LADIES running around with TATTOOS, and Rap Music will be
the Golden Oldies. Now that's SCARY! --Maxine
Leon wrote:
> I am guessing he may be missing the point. From CW's description I would
> say that he is simply cutting strips exactly the same way you would rip a 2"
> wide piece.
>
> But there is a problem with that. Because more push goes agains the waste
> side, the wast tends to grind a bit more against the blade and thends to
> loose it's straight edge. OK for a few passes but yesterday I was doing 12
> passes from a single 1x6 and surely would have had pieces that were
> inconsistant in thickness from one end to the other had I cut them against
> the fence. Been there, done that.
LOL ... different strokes! It's when I don't cut them against the fence
that I get inconsistent widths. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
See my post to Greg.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> It would me much easier and faster to just set the fence once and rip.
>
>
> When you are ripping numerious THIN pieces which should be on the wast
> side you don't have the issue of the the thick waste side pushing into the
> blade and becoming slightly dished out. And ripping pieces less than 1/4"
> thick tends to get a bit more dicey as the thin pieces tend to want to
> drift back into the back of the blade brfore reaaching the splitter if
> they are against the fence.
>
> Basically you end up pushing the work through fron the waste side when
> ripping thins strips against the fence. That can cause accumilated
> problems with each pass, the wast side is no longer straight.
>
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:04:28 -0600, the infamous Swingman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>CW wrote:
>
>> I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and not
>> even a hint of a problem.
>
>Myself ... just did a bunch of 3/16", 1/4" and 2/8" strips for trim,
>about 200lf. I use either the Gripper, and/or a thin push stick when
>necessary, precisely the desired width from end to end.
Do you have a lot of call for the 2/8" strips, Swingy?
--
When we are planning for posterity,
we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Also, I don't really like the concept of the material being pinched
> from two sides on a tables saw. I rarely use feathers for the same
> reason. Just looks too tempting to create a bind and kick back..
Different strokes, but I don't understand the problem?
Properly used (in front of the blade) there should be no issue with a
feather board on a TS. Been using feather boards on table saws for 40
years ... there are just too many applications where using one is like
having an extra hand, often increasing safety instead of detracting from it.
If for some reason there could be a problem with wood closing up on the
back of the blade (case hardened material, reaction wood), you should be
using a splitter in any event.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>
>>> If they aren't longer than the stroke of the saw, strips like that
>>> are trivial on an RAS.
>>
>>
>> So you are ripping in the cross cut position? Can you explain how it
>> is easier to rip narrower pieces on the RAS
>
> (1) clamp a piece of scrap to the fence--cut.
> That gives you a reference surface at the cut line.
> (2) put a spacer of the appropriate thickness at the other end of the
> scrap.
> If no spacer, then set a caliper to the required thickness and use it
> for the spacer.
> (3) Clamp a scrap on the other side of the spacer.
> (4) Remove spacer, move original scrap and reclamp.
> (5) Put stock against end of clamped scrap.
> (6) Cut
> (7) remove piece that was cut.
> (8) Until done, GOTO 5.
>
> Other than the saw, the only jigging you need is a couple of clamps, a
> piece
> of scrap, and something to set the thickness by.
>
> It takes longer to describe than to do.
I'm sure and I under stand the concept.
Are you ripping strips in the cross cut set up position?
If so, what holds the stock once it becomes 3/4 wide or narrower?
CW wrote:
> I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and not
> even a hint of a problem.
Myself ... just did a bunch of 3/16", 1/4" and 2/8" strips for trim,
about 200lf. I use either the Gripper, and/or a thin push stick when
necessary, precisely the desired width from end to end.
I find that the repeated fence settings with these jigs cause small, but
aggravating variations in width that either waste stock, or bite you in
the butt when you least expect it.
YMMV ....
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e45cdb36-1217-4456-a089-505e27be95a1@b36g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Yes of course in front of the the blade. I do on occasion use them and
have never seen a problem. It is just an emotional thing. I have a
rule that when my balls start to crawl up inside during any operation,
I listen to them and find a different way to do the operation and for
some reason the look of that setup always bugs me.
Actually the rip jig is impossible to use if positioned anywhere past the
the front of the blade. It absolutely has to be positioned in front of the
blade to function as intended.
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Nov 16, 6:03 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
> >not
> >even a hint of a problem.
>
> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
I do the same thing. I use a zero-clearance insert and a push stick
that sits on top of as well as behind the board. I usually rip my
edging to a strong 1/8" though, not a sixteenth.
I knew I couldn't be the only one.
JP
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:55:57 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>>
>>A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>
> A Most Excellent idea, sir. Kudos to both you and Woodsmith for
> sharing it with us, too. That's much safer than running narrow strips
> next to the fence.
Pretty cool for cutting veneers on the BS also.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It would me much easier and faster to just set the fence once and rip.
When you are ripping numerious THIN pieces which should be on the wast side
you don't have the issue of the the thick waste side pushing into the blade
and becoming slightly dished out. And ripping pieces less than 1/4" thick
tends to get a bit more dicey as the thin pieces tend to want to drift back
into the back of the blade brfore reaaching the splitter if they are against
the fence.
Basically you end up pushing the work through fron the waste side when
ripping thins strips against the fence. That can cause accumilated problems
with each pass, the wast side is no longer straight.
On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:48:32 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:56:23 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>I've turned 6" wide boards into 1/16" strips. Never reset the fence and
>>>not
>>>even a hint of a problem.
>>
>> Instead of just "stating it", how about explaining "how" you did it?
>> Otherwise, your statement is a complete waste.
>
>No one asked how.
>Take a 2x4 about 18 inches long. Attach a piece of plywood or whatever is
>handy to the end so it hangs below the 2x4 by about 1/4 inch. Attach handle
>to top if desired (recommended). You now have a push block. Set fence, raise
>blade about 1/8 above stock thickness and push it through using the push
>block. Keep bloc against fence when doing so. The block pushes both cutoff
>and waste clear through the blade while holding the stock down. Complete
>control and no kickback. This technique is at least 40 years old. Probably
>older but that is the first time I saw it.
>
>
That's the method I use for thin strips, which is about 4 inches or less. My most recent
application was a bunch of 1/8 inch roofing strips for some Lincoln Logs for the grand kids. I cut
some scrap ply into strips a tad under 1-1/2 inches. then about 4 inches long for the end pieces.
These are held on with a drywall screw, and can be turned over when really chewed up. Heck, for the
truly frugal, the ends could even be trimmed and the end piece reused at least once.
Anyway, twobufour, twobusix, etc. make really cheap push sticks, and I never sweat cutting one up
to the point of trashing it. Plenty of other scrap to make more. To fancy it up, drill a 3/8 in
hole on top near the end and stick one of those shaker mug pegs in it for a handle. Really classes
up the pushstick and impresses the ladies.
Now if I only had some JOAT yellow.......
Regards,
Roy
Regards,
Roy
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Yes of course in front of the the blade. I do on occasion use them and
> have never seen a problem. It is just an emotional thing. I have a
> rule that when my balls start to crawl up inside during any operation,
> I listen to them and find a different way to do the operation and for
> some reason the look of that setup always bugs me.
LOL ... know the feeling. It used to be quite routine when I was still
using one of those $15, aluminum, taper jigs to taper table legs.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:55:57 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>http://tinyurl.com/lx3n5v
>>
>>A jig for ripping narrow strips on a T/S.
>
> A Most Excellent idea, sir. Kudos to both you and Woodsmith for
> sharing it with us, too. That's much safer than running narrow
> strips
> next to the fence.
>
> --
> You know, in about 40 years, we'll have literally thousands of
> OLD LADIES running around with TATTOOS, and Rap Music will be
> the Golden Oldies. Now that's SCARY! --Maxine
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.