Tablesaw Safety question!

EugeneC173 wrote:

> I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge with
> a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to the
> miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference. When
> using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until it is
> cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
> towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then turn off
> the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a trapped
> piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I described
> every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do it?
> What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently, there
> is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......
>
> Gene

When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly moving the
stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed off the
back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I retract the
miter gauge.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

I take advantage of a bit of play in the slot, cutting with pressure right,
drawing back with pressure left. If I forget, no great sweat, as the edges
of the teeth are the only possible point of contact, and they are pushing
the piece into the table.

Greater danger lies in reaching to clear the cutoff.


"EugeneC173" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge
with
> a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
> miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
> using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until
it is
> cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
> towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
> the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
> piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
> every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do
it?
> What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently,
there
> is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......
>
> Gene

On Wed, 12 Nov 2003 07:31:53 -0500, "George"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I take advantage of a bit of play in the slot, cutting with pressure right,
>drawing back with pressure left. If I forget, no great sweat, as the edges
>of the teeth are the only possible point of contact, and they are pushing
>the piece into the table.
>
>Greater danger lies in reaching to clear the cutoff.
>

Yeah. It is tempting to take away the cutoff piece. Norm gave me the
willies a couple times remove the cut-off piece with his fingers. I
either turn off the saw and "freeze" until the blade stops or slide
the cutoff away from the blade using one of my narrow pushsticks. I
keep 3 or 4 different pushsticks on my Beisemeyer fence, wher ethey
are easy to use and convenient. Safety has a lot to do with working
without being in a rush.

Phisherman wrote:

> Yeah. It is tempting to take away the cutoff piece. Norm gave me the
> willies a couple times remove the cut-off piece with his fingers. I
> either turn off the saw and "freeze" until the blade stops or slide
> the cutoff away from the blade using one of my narrow pushsticks. I
> keep 3 or 4 different pushsticks on my Beisemeyer fence, wher ethey
> are easy to use and convenient. Safety has a lot to do with working
> without being in a rush.

The author of one of the table saw books I read uses blasts of compressed
air to clear cutoffs. It is especially handy when using a pattern jig that
covers the right side of the blade.

-- Mark

Ditto Nova

Jim


"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> EugeneC173 wrote:
>
> > I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
> > a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
> > miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
> > using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
> > cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
> > towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
> > the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
> > piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
> > every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
> > What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
> > is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......
> >
> > Gene
>
> When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
> stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
> back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
> miter gauge.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
>

On 12 Nov 2003 02:24:50 GMT, [email protected] (EugeneC173) wrote:

>I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter gauge with
>a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to the
>miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference. When
>using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece until it is
>cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter gauge
>towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then turn off
>the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a trapped
>piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I described
>every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys do it?
>What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge? Incidently, there
>is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......
>
>Gene


Not sure wha tyou are saying. "Trapped piece" is a clue that you are
sliding the piece with your miter gauge with the piece sliding against
the fence while passing it through the blade. That's situation should
be avoided by clamping an alignment board against the fence such that
the piece leaves that alignment board before the piece reaches the saw
blade. Small pieces can vibrate toward the back of the blade and fly
off in any sirection too. I read that a table saw blade runs at 100
MPH.

Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
> I read that a table saw blade runs at 100 MPH.

Yeah, that's about right. On a 10-inch blade running at 3000 RPM, the
tip speed works out to slightly over 89 MPH.

I don't own a table saw, so take this for what it's worth...
My understanding of kickback is that it's caused when a piece of stock,
caught between the blade and fence, begins to rotate into the blade. Because
the fence won't move, the stock gets pinched and the blade hurls the piece
forward with great force. If the stock can't rotate into the blade, then the
kickback won't occur. In the case of the miter guage with stop, you are
holding the workpiece to the guage, so it can't rotate into the blade.
Personally, I would not be concerned about drawing the stock back.
Bruce
Nova <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> EugeneC173 wrote:
>
> > I have a Shop Fox 3hp cabinet saw equipped with an Osborne EB3 miter
gauge with
> > a stop for repetitive cutting. The blade is aligned dead on parallel to
the
> > miter slot using a calibration plate and dial indicator for reference.
When
> > using the miter guage I am advancing the miter gauge and work piece
until it is
> > cut. After the cut is completed, I retract the workpiece with miter
gauge
> > towards me, I don't pass the board past the rear of the blade and then
turn off
> > the saw. I feel kind of unsafe doing it this way because I do have a
trapped
> > piece of wood risking a huge kickback. I see Norm do it the way I
described
> > every week. I would like to have some opinions on this, how do you guys
do it?
> > What is the normal method of crosscutting with a miter gauge?
Incidently, there
> > is no play in the slot on the miter guage, Zero! TIA.......
> >
> > Gene
>
> When I'm not using the stop I'll retract the miter gauge after slightly
moving the
> stock away from the blade. If I'm using a stop the the stock is removed
off the
> back of the saw or the saw is shut off with the blade stopped before I
retract the
> miter gauge.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
>