> > Looking for a lock miter bit that will cut 1/4" to 1/2" thick wood
>
> Probably not much call for one. Wouldn't be much wood left
> to fit together,
I agree - it seems like the little interlocking "fingers" in a 1/4"
lock miter would be so thin as to be almost worthless. If I really
wanted the corner to be durable, I'd probably do a regular miter and
then glue some kind of reinforcing block on the inside of the corner -
even a 1/4" wide triangle-shaped piece the same height as the box, to
provide glue surface on both sides and hold the 90 degree angle, but
not intrude too much into the box. I like the feather spline idea also
- but that's a spline perpendicular to the miter, cut after glueup,
like http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com/Shavin12.gif, NOT parallel to
the miter and cut before glueup like
http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com/Shavin11.gif
(I was confused for a second on this).
Good luck,
Andy
Vic wrote:
>
> Looking for a lock miter bit that will cut 1/4" to 1/2" thick wood for
> making small boxes. Lee Valley has one that will 3/8" to 1/2" thick
> wood, but would like to get a smaller one if possible. Anyone know if
> a lock miter bit is made for 1/4" material. Thanks.
>
> Vic
Probably not much call for one. Wouldn't be much wood left
to fit together, assuming the thin areas (about 3/64th) wouldn't
just fold over unless perefectly aligned on assembly. At 1/4"
thick just miter and glue together. If you want some added
strength cut the corners for feather splines - in the same
or a contrasting wood.
charlie b
"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I agree - it seems like the little interlocking "fingers" in a 1/4"
> lock miter would be so thin as to be almost worthless. If I really
> wanted the corner to be durable, I'd probably do a regular miter and
> then glue some kind of reinforcing block on the inside of the corner -
Either that or box joints.
I used to worry about finding the same thing for jewelry boxes. Instead
I just miter a 45 with a chamfer bit and apply tight bond.
My proceedure is to
1) size the wood.
2) run each piece through the chamfer bit
3) apply glue and band clamp everything together
4) check for squareness adjust as needed
5) pin nail everything so it stays together while the glue cures
6) remove the band clamp and set aside.
I've done boxes with up to 8 sides. The toughest part is fitting a
bottom into rabbit cuts because I don't have a good miter saw
Vic wrote:
> Looking for a lock miter bit that will cut 1/4" to 1/2" thick wood for
> making small boxes. Lee Valley has one that will 3/8" to 1/2" thick
> wood, but would like to get a smaller one if possible. Anyone know if
> a lock miter bit is made for 1/4" material. Thanks.
>
> Vic
Thanks for all the comments. Agree after thinking some more, a lock
miter bit for 1/4" material is not a good idea. Box joints it will
be. Thanks.
Vic
>Looking for a lock miter bit that will cut 1/4" to 1/2" thick wood for
>making small boxes. Lee Valley has one that will 3/8" to 1/2" thick
>wood, but would like to get a smaller one if possible. Anyone know if
>a lock miter bit is made for 1/4" material. Thanks.
>
>Vic
On Fri, 4 Aug 2006 14:46:53 -0400, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I agree - it seems like the little interlocking "fingers" in a 1/4"
>> lock miter would be so thin as to be almost worthless. If I really
>> wanted the corner to be durable, I'd probably do a regular miter and
>> then glue some kind of reinforcing block on the inside of the corner -
>
>Either that or box joints.
>
Box joints on a box??
WAY too logical..*g*
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm