Building 50 bookcases. Have certain requirements for the plans.

<<And others have suggested putting a
wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.>>

Could you not just use horizontal shelves but rout a small groove parallel
to, and set slightly back from, the front edge of each one, similar to the
grooves found on some shelves that are used for displaying plates and
platters?

Lee



--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > That's only one of the big projects I have on my plate. I'm looking at
> installing a laminate wood floor in the store. (About 3000 square feet!)
The
> flooring is going to weigh in the neighbourhood of 5000 pounds, and the
> nearest retailer of the brand that I want is 5 hours away, and I don't
think
> I can get it delivered. Guess who is going to be doing the grunt work...
;)
>
> Sean.
>


No trucking/shipping compnies in your area?
Greg

Hi Sean,

Wow - that's a big project!

As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.

If I were doing this, I would definitely pay the lumber supplier to
trim the plywood/MDF/Melamine sheets down to the approximate width you
need. I would also try to do a lot of the finishing before assembly.

Good luck!

Lou

In article <[email protected]>, S. Dees
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.
>
>
>

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 12:50am (EST-3) [email protected] (S.=A0Dees)
makes his claim that:
<snip> (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
forward and out.) <snip>

Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.

You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
another one of those dull little trolls too.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus

Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 12:50am (EST-3) [email protected] (S.=A0Dees)
also claims:
<snip> The shelves also need to be adjustable. <snip>

This hit me just as I hit send: Why? You plan on shifting your
books around on a regular basis? So, then you'll need to adjust shelf
height? That's a lot of work. I don't recall any bookstores, or
libraries, that have adjusable shelves, unless they bought the prefabbed
type. And, even then, I don't recall any of them changing books, and
shelves, around. May cost more too. However, it's your money, your
time, your labor.

But, if it was me, I'd be worrying about making sure the bookcases
wouldn't fall over, if someone pulled on them, a kid wanted to climb
them, etc., rather than worrying about books falling out because the
shelves aren't "sloped", or adjustable.



JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus

S. Dees

Woodsmith magazine Vol 18/No 108 has plans for what they call a "Children's
Bookcase". It provides shelves that are tilted back so things don't fall.
The dimensions are off for what you need but the concept is adaptable.
Basically what you use are four "L shaped shelf support with holes." The
front supports are put in place and screwed into the front of the shelf
board. The back of the shelf is allowed to pivot down until it hits the
back shelf supports which are placed lower than the front thereby providing
the backward tilt to the shelf. In the plan there is no back to the case
but each shelf has a back board attached to it. That may not be necessary
but probably useful to prevent an upper book from falling behind the shelf
onto a lower bookshelf if the books are pushed back. Since the shelf can
pivot, from flat to inclined, it may help with your display allowing you to
change it as needed.

Happy building!

S. Dees <[email protected]> wrote:

> Thanks for the support! I figure that it won't be too hard to do all of them
> once I get going, and figure out exactly what I am doing. Cut 20 or 30 pairs
> of sides at a time. Cut all 350 shelves at the same time. Etc, Etc.
> Tremendous time-saving advantages.
> Sean

Watch out for repetitive strain injuries though. And for accidents
because you fall asleep.

--
mare

I've seen retailers build their own cases before and they concentrated
on fine materials and simple design.

You might consider using a "stop" piece on the front of the shelf. This
would serve the same purpose as the slant in terms of keeping the books
on the shelf.

But the title edge would not be slanted up toward the eye so that may be
a key factor also.

If doing that many bookcases I think I would rip all the parts on a good
table saw and then mark the angle slots on the sides. Then I would put
a dado on a radial arm and cut the dados for the sloping groove.

There are many great woods available if you are inclined to make a
statement with the cases. You might even sell some cases!

Good luck to you and give the big box boys a run for their money!

RonT

In article <161120040857151383%[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
> to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
> degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
> use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
> constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
> it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
> You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
>
If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
need any wedges, the supports would rotate.

But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
wedges - you decide.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Using a Router won't work. The shelves need to be adjustable. Making the
front thicker is not a bad idea. Ideally I would prefer to have the back of
the bookcase attached to the sides at a slight angle and running shelf
support rails down the back. (That way it gives it a lot cleaner
appearance.) I'll have to think about it.
Thanks for the suggestion about doing a lot of the finishing before
assembly. That might make it a bit easier.
Thanks! :)
That's only one of the big projects I have on my plate. I'm looking at
installing a laminate wood floor in the store. (About 3000 square feet!) The
flooring is going to weigh in the neighbourhood of 5000 pounds, and the
nearest retailer of the brand that I want is 5 hours away, and I don't think
I can get it delivered. Guess who is going to be doing the grunt work... ;)

Sean.


"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:161120040857151383%[email protected]...
> Hi Sean,
>
> Wow - that's a big project!
>
> As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
> to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
> degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
> use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
> constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
> it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
> You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
>
> If I were doing this, I would definitely pay the lumber supplier to
> trim the plywood/MDF/Melamine sheets down to the approximate width you
> need. I would also try to do a lot of the finishing before assembly.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Lou
>
> In article <[email protected]>, S. Dees
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I
need
> > to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> > with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
> > that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
> > forward and out.)
> > There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> > bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
> > am looking at making):
> > http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> > I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
> > about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> > The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> > Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> > Thanks for any and all help!
> > Sean.
> >
> >
> >

There is no way I want to do that much drilling... Let's see now... 50 cases
with an average height of 84. Holes would have to be drilled from 12" to
72". On per inch equals 60 holes per row. Times 4 rows per bookcase is 240
holes. Times 50 bookcases is 12,000 holes!!!! No thank you!
I have also found that the holes tend to wear out over time. The last thing
I want to have to do is redo 12,000 holes in 10 or 15 years.... :)
Thanks for the suggestion though...
Sean.


"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <161120040857151383%[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> > As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
> > to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
> > degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
> > use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
> > constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
> > it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
> > You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
> >
> If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
> need any wedges, the supports would rotate.
>
> But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
> wedges - you decide.
>
> --
> Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

I never thought about contracting out doing the edge banding on the shelves.
That's a fantastic idea! I've done a bit of banding in the past, and have
never been 100% satisfied with the results. I was thinking about attaching a
piece of trim to the front of the shelves, but the cost of 1000 feet of 1"
trim would probably be much more expensive and certainly much more time
consuming than just farming out the job.
I don't know of any shops that do that sort of stuff in the Vancouver,
Canada area, but that's what the Yellow Pages are for... :)
I think you might be right about building a standard bookcase and then
"trimming" an inch off the back bottom edge to provide the angle and then
using a cleat at the top to hold it against the wall. That sounds like the
best idea I have heard so far.
Thanks!
Sean


"max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BDBF6204.33C05%[email protected]...
> Here in SF there are shops that can do things for you to save you time and
> money. When we had a big job, we sometimes sent out panels for edge
banding.
> We had a job to make 17 cabinets with tons of shelving so paying a guy to
> edge band save us 2 days.
> There are shops that have CNC routers, panel saws and other tools beyond
our
> reach that will help you. You can buy prefinished maple ply or apple ply
and
> then have one of these shops cut it and edgeband it for you. You can
> actually use apple ply without edgebanding for a nice look.
> As for plans, it seems pretty straightforward. You can design you case
> bringing the bottom shelf up an inch or so from the bottom edge of the
sides
> and then cut the bottom edge at a 2 or 3 degree slant and then cleat the
top
> of the case to the wall.
> Or you can make a jig and make hundreds of dado cuts at an angle. You
might
> also be able to farm out the dado cuts to a CNC shop (angled or straight).
> max
>
> > Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I
need
> > to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> > with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
> > that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
> > forward and out.)
> > There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> > bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
> > am looking at making):
> > http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> > I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
> > about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> > The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> > Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> > Thanks for any and all help!
> > Sean.
> >
> >
> >
>

I have never seen a library or school do it either, but then again they
generally don't try to display the front covers as much as bookstores do.
Most of the NEW bookstores that I have been in generally do that for all the
shelves packed along the wall. It allows a greater amount of visibility for
the book covers, and as Tom said, tilting it back on the bottom shelves also
allow them more visibility from above.
I have never seen any cleats on the front of the shelves.... Gravity tends
to keep the books from sliding forward.
Sean

"Tom Quackenbush" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> J T wrote:
> >S. Dees makes his claim that:
>
> ><snip> (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
> >stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> >forward and out.) <snip>
> >
> > Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.
> >
> > You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
> >I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
> >schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
> >are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
> >reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
> >another one of those dull little trolls too.
>
> Most library books are arranged with the spines facing out,
> supported by adjacent books or a bookend. I think that the OP wants to
> arrange the books with the front cover facing out for display
> purposes. If that's the case, angling the book backwards, with a cleat
> to keep the bottom of the book from sliding forward, would be a good
> idea. If the shelf is below eye level, tilting the book back would
> also make for better viewing.
>
> R,
> Tom Q.

I have done a fair bit of woodworking before. I was hoping for some plans to
just help me with the shelf angle issue. I've gotten a few very helpful
suggestions from this group so far, and I think I have enough information to
make a "prototype" to see how it works out. (I can always use an extra 1 or
2 bookcases at home if they aren't perfect.)
At $300 per bookcase that works out to $15,000 - $18,000 for 50 or 60
bookcases. Plus tax. Plus shipping. And that is assuming that I can find
someone in Canada that can do it for the same price as Franklin does it in
the USA. I have 6 - 8 months before the grand opening of my store, and no
other work to fill up my time until then. If I can save $5000 - $10,000 by
doing it myself, that would be the best way to go.
Sean

"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:wItmd.7298$063.1375@trndny03...
>
> "S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> > bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what
I
> > am looking at making):
> > http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> > I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases
and
> > about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> > The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> > Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> > Thanks for any and all help!
> > Sean.
>
> Have you done any woodworking at all? If not, it may be cheaper to have
> them built in a production shop. If you have, why do you need plans? The
> simple sketch on the Franklin web page gives the dimensions. A few
minutes
> with paper and pencil and you have a plan and materials list. For
instance,
> the 84" tapered single has a side that is 84" high. Since it is 18" deep,
> you could cut the sides, oh say, 18 x 84. Go to a bookstore and take a
> ruler with you for more detail.
>
> My point is, if you have the skills to make them from plans, you have the
> skills to make a simple sketch and do it. If you don't have the skills
(or
> tools), it may be better to have the done for you. Use the skills you do
> have to make money to pay for it. A sheet of plywood ($50) will yield
the
> two sizes and three shelves. You need a back and four more shelves.
> Material cost for the wood, edge banding, shelf pins, screws, glue, etc.
is
> about $125. Then add the finish of two or three coats of urethane. That
> $295 is not so bad now when you factor in labor.
>
> The prices from Franklin don't seem to be out of line at all. Freight
will
> be a big factor though. Check that out before you commit to anything.
I'd
> do them for you but I'd have to charge every bit of $300, probably more.
>
>

Thanks for the suggestion.
Sean
"Jack Casuso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> S. Dees
>
> Woodsmith magazine Vol 18/No 108 has plans for what they call a
"Children's
> Bookcase". It provides shelves that are tilted back so things don't fall.
> The dimensions are off for what you need but the concept is adaptable.
> Basically what you use are four "L shaped shelf support with holes." The
> front supports are put in place and screwed into the front of the shelf
> board. The back of the shelf is allowed to pivot down until it hits the
> back shelf supports which are placed lower than the front thereby
providing
> the backward tilt to the shelf. In the plan there is no back to the case
> but each shelf has a back board attached to it. That may not be necessary
> but probably useful to prevent an upper book from falling behind the shelf
> onto a lower bookshelf if the books are pushed back. Since the shelf can
> pivot, from flat to inclined, it may help with your display allowing you
to
> change it as needed.
>
> Happy building!
>
>

When explaining the project and all of your suggestions to my wife, I found
a small problem with one type of solution that seems to work at first
glance, yet has a major drawback....

The solution types with a problem are as follows:
Some people have suggested either tapering the shelves so that they are
thicker at the front than the back. Others have suggested putting the shelf
support pins one notch up at the front. And others have suggested putting a
wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.

Now those are all great suggestions for if I was going to be displaying all
the books with the front covers of the books facing towards the front, but
this solution has a major drawback for the rest of the books that are
stacked in the traditional way with the edges facing forward. The problem is
that all the books stacked traditionally will have 1/2" - 1" space at the
bottom of the back of the book. (Due to the shelves not being 90 degrees
from the back of the bookcase. The shelves would actually only be about 80
degrees) This will cause damage to the books at the top of the book. (They
would have a tendency to have bent corners and damage the edges.)

The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to mount
the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
gladly look forward to hearing it.

Thanks, Sean.



"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that
books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally
fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.
>
>
>

That's not a bad idea. It would be fine if I was wanting to display just one
hardcover book. It wouldn't be damaged from leaning back like that. The
usual way of displaying books in a new bookstore in our area is to display
about half the shelf with the spine facing outwards. (The traditional way of
putting books in a bookcase.) And the other half, mostly new release books &
popular books, stacked 3 or 4 deep with the front covers facing out. If you
only put a single paperback in the groove, rather than 3 or 4 in a stack
facing out, I think it would tend to bend the top right corner of the book
and damage it. (It would be put at a 20 to 30 degree angle and the softer
right side of the book would sag, while the spine stayed stiff.) If you
stacked them 3 or 4 deep so there wouldn't be such an angle and sag, then
when someone takes the first book in the pile the 2nd one might fall forward
if someone picked it up and put it back carelessly.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Sean.



"Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <<And others have suggested putting a
> wedge or cleat under the front part of the shelf.>>
>
> Could you not just use horizontal shelves but rout a small groove
parallel
> to, and set slightly back from, the front edge of each one, similar to the
> grooves found on some shelves that are used for displaying plates and
> platters?
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> --
> To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
>
>

Those ladder shelves are the closest I have seen so far. (aside from the
Franklin website that I noted earlier). I would just have to adjust the
shelves so that they are slightly angled to allow the books to lean back,
and then put a back on the case.
Thanks for the link.
Sean.
"firstjois" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> S. Dees wrote:
> [snip]
>
> >> The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far
> >> is to just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that
> >> the shelf actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into
> >> the wall to mount the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger
> >> cleat at the bottom so that the bookcase couldn't be pushed
> >> backwards at the bottom.)
> >>
> [snip]
>
> So what you are going to end up with is *almost* equal to a ladder? See
>
> http://www.spacestation42.com/Shops/shelving.html
>
> You'll have to go down the page a little but there are several examples.
>
> You'd keep the angle you wanted for the books by slicing a 10 degree wedge
> shaped piece off the top back edges (maybe 10" on the hypotenuse) and
> adding the same wedge to the front bottom of the bookcase. Lose a little
> shop space because each bookcase would stick further out into the walkways
> than usual but maybe feel less looming and clostrophobic to the customer.
>
> Works on a strip of paper!
>
> Josie
>
>

Actually it would have been a great idea if I just wanted to do it for 10 or
15 shelves. I could knock them off pretty quick and they would have been
pretty easy to move around. (I still might make a few.) The problem is doing
that for 50 bookcase with an average of 7 shelves each means about 350
easels. Even if I only did it for only one per bookcase, that's still 50
easels and a heck of a lot of wood.
I may still do a few. Thanks for the suggestion.
Sean.

"Tom Quackenbush" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> firstjois wrote:
> >Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>
> >>> Have you considered using a separate, inclined shelf or easel placed
> >>> on a standard bookshelf?
> >>>
> >>> Something like this:
> >>>
>
>http://xylemdesign.com/Easels/DisplayEasels/TableTopEasels/OakBookstandBig.
asp
> >
> >Did you note the price? I know the OP would be making them or having
> >them made but $50?
>
> I hadn't noticed, but you're right - that's pretty steep. Maybe I
> can quit my day job ...
>
> I envisioned something a little more utilitarian for the OP. 1/4"
> ply, a little more vertical than the one in the picture and the same
> width as the bookcase.
>
>
> R,
> Tom Q.

Bingo! I think you have the solution! I hadn't thought of a variable width
rabbet. I always thought of rabbets as being one width along the total
length. That will take a little work setting up the rabbet like you have
described, but it is by far the best solution that I have seen. That would
still allow lots of space for the back to be properly attached to the sides.

Thanks! Sean.

<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> S. Dees <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
> > gladly look forward to hearing it.
>
> Here is one suggestion I have not seen, though I may have missed
> it in all the various posts. Cut the sides with a 90 degree
> angle at the back and bottom corner, but angle the front edge
> slightly toward the top. Then route grooves into the inside
> of the sides parallel to the front edge. Also route a rabbet
> at the back parallel to the front edge (note this rabbet will
> be deeper at the bottom than at the top. Mount the shelf
> bracket rails in the grooves and a back panel in the rabbet.
> This give you angled shelves, the backpanel is at 90 degrees
> to the shelves, and the whole piece stands straight against
> a flat (plumb) wall. Assuming the angle is fairly small
> this should not be too hard to accomplish, and in fairly
> production-line-like fashion.
>
> You will have to angle the top of the toe-kick to match
> the angle of the bottom shelf.
>
>
> Bill Ranck
> Blacksburg, Va.
>
>

Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.
Sean
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
> calmly ranted:
>
> >The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
> >just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
> >actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to
mount
> >the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
> >that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)
>
> And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. <g>
>
> What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
> deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
> at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
> space in the middle at the bottom.
>
>
> >Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
> >gladly look forward to hearing it.
>
> Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
> into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
> ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
> and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.
>
> Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
> topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.
>
> Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
> the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.
>
> If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
> lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.
>
> Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
> disconnect hardware so they're portable.
>
> Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
> you get your stock of books.
>
>
> Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
> remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. <scritch, scritch, scritch>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> * OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
> * meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
> * "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>

Thanks for the support! I figure that it won't be too hard to do all of them
once I get going, and figure out exactly what I am doing. Cut 20 or 30 pairs
of sides at a time. Cut all 350 shelves at the same time. Etc, Etc.
Tremendous time-saving advantages.
Sean

"Ron Truitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've seen retailers build their own cases before and they concentrated
> on fine materials and simple design.
>
> You might consider using a "stop" piece on the front of the shelf. This
> would serve the same purpose as the slant in terms of keeping the books
> on the shelf.
>
> But the title edge would not be slanted up toward the eye so that may be
> a key factor also.
>
> If doing that many bookcases I think I would rip all the parts on a good
> table saw and then mark the angle slots on the sides. Then I would put
> a dado on a radial arm and cut the dados for the sloping groove.
>
> There are many great woods available if you are inclined to make a
> statement with the cases. You might even sell some cases!
>
> Good luck to you and give the big box boys a run for their money!
>
> RonT
>

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.

Sean ,adjustable and slope are easy. Tapered hardwood cleat with steel
5/16" metal rods at each end. The cleats are bored 1/2" deep for 1"x
5/16" diameter rods. Case sides bored similarly. You need to bore the
sides of the case the same way you would for store bought shelf clips.
You probably use 1/4" steel or brass, I suggested 5/16" because that's
what I did a number of years ago.
If the rods fit snug into the tapered cleats then no need to epoxy
them. Bolts could be used too, counterbore cleat for a plug.

mike

firstjois wrote:
>Tom Quackenbush wrote:

>>> Have you considered using a separate, inclined shelf or easel placed
>>> on a standard bookshelf?
>>>
>>> Something like this:
>>>
>http://xylemdesign.com/Easels/DisplayEasels/TableTopEasels/OakBookstandBig.asp
>
>Did you note the price? I know the OP would be making them or having
>them made but $50?

I hadn't noticed, but you're right - that's pretty steep. Maybe I
can quit my day job ...

I envisioned something a little more utilitarian for the OP. 1/4"
ply, a little more vertical than the one in the picture and the same
width as the bookcase.


R,
Tom Q.

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.

Piece of cake......call your local KV hardware rep. They have the
hardware needed for angled shelves. They are adjustable to about any
angle needed.
50 bookcases is a BIG job! Good luck.

Mike from American Sycamore

"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:161120040857151383%[email protected]...
: Hi Sean,
:
: Wow - that's a big project!
:
: As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
: to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
: degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
: use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
: constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
: it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
: You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
:
[snip]

Why couldn't you use the metal tracks on the side and put the front into a
higher slot on the track than the back one? Hey, I'm not recommending
this! I'm just asking! But if that would work then you could stand a
wedge shaped board on the back of each of the 50,000,000 shelves - phew.
My mind goes "Boing" just thinking of making all those shelves!

Josie

Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>> S. Dees wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and
>>> I need to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to
>>> find any plans with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped
>>> backwards so that books that are stacked with the front cover
>>> facing out will not accidentally fall forward and out.)
>>> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
>>> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see
>>> what I am looking at making):
>>> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
>>> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided
>>> cases and about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
>>> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
>>> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
>>> Thanks for any and all help!
>>
>> Have you considered using a separate, inclined shelf or easel placed
>> on a standard bookshelf?
>>
>> Something like this:
>>
http://xylemdesign.com/Easels/DisplayEasels/TableTopEasels/OakBookstandBig.asp
>>
>> R,
>> Tom Q.

Did you note the price? I know the OP would be making them or having
them made but $50?

Josie

Here in SF there are shops that can do things for you to save you time and
money. When we had a big job, we sometimes sent out panels for edge banding.
We had a job to make 17 cabinets with tons of shelving so paying a guy to
edge band save us 2 days.
There are shops that have CNC routers, panel saws and other tools beyond our
reach that will help you. You can buy prefinished maple ply or apple ply and
then have one of these shops cut it and edgeband it for you. You can
actually use apple ply without edgebanding for a nice look.
As for plans, it seems pretty straightforward. You can design you case
bringing the bottom shelf up an inch or so from the bottom edge of the sides
and then cut the bottom edge at a 2 or 3 degree slant and then cleat the top
of the case to the wall.
Or you can make a jig and make hundreds of dado cuts at an angle. You might
also be able to farm out the dado cuts to a CNC shop (angled or straight).
max

> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.
>
>
>

S. Dees wrote:
[snip]

>> The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far
>> is to just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that
>> the shelf actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into
>> the wall to mount the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger
>> cleat at the bottom so that the bookcase couldn't be pushed
>> backwards at the bottom.)
>>
[snip]

So what you are going to end up with is *almost* equal to a ladder? See

http://www.spacestation42.com/Shops/shelving.html

You'll have to go down the page a little but there are several examples.

You'd keep the angle you wanted for the books by slicing a 10 degree wedge
shaped piece off the top back edges (maybe 10" on the hypotenuse) and
adding the same wedge to the front bottom of the bookcase. Lose a little
shop space because each bookcase would stick further out into the walkways
than usual but maybe feel less looming and clostrophobic to the customer.

Works on a strip of paper!

Josie

Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>> firstjois wrote:
>>> Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>>
>>>>> Have you considered using a separate, inclined shelf or easel
>>>>> placed on a standard bookshelf?
>>>>>
>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>>
>>>
http://xylemdesign.com/Easels/DisplayEasels/TableTopEasels/OakBookstandBig.asp
>>>
>>> Did you note the price? I know the OP would be making them or
>>> having them made but $50?
>>
>> I hadn't noticed, but you're right - that's pretty steep. Maybe I
>> can quit my day job ...
>>
>> I envisioned something a little more utilitarian for the OP. 1/4"
>> ply, a little more vertical than the one in the picture and the same
>> width as the bookcase.
>>
>>
>> R,
>> Tom Q.

Even in real oak - $50?

Just surprised me!

Josie

Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip
> to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat
> it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I
> browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.
>
> So what wood and finish have you decided on?
> Solid wood or ply with solid edges?
>
> Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel
> wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth,
> nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after
> for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.
>
> Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of
> the end caps. It should be safe with all books.
>
> Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you
> won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.

I'm just curious if you have worked out the amount of space required to
manufacture, assemble, finish, cure and store all of these shelves, prior
to installation? That's a lot of space, just for drying racks for endcaps
coated with Waterlox. Consider also the installation sequence for the rest
of the retail space. You have floors to put down, too.

Were it me, I think that, as early as possible, I'd try a prototype all the
way through to the final installation phase. Then I'd take the plan and
sample out to bid with a couple of good, preferably local, cabinet and/or
millwork suppliers. Just for a reality check.

There are economies of scale with equipment, staff and skills...

Waterlox _is_ pretty, though.

Patriarch

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.

You may find help at www.bricomagic.com.

You can get free plans for custom-made furniture.

Regards

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.

Look at www.bricomagic.com

You will find really free plans for custom-made furniture.

Regards

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:50:53 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:

>Thanks for the suggestions. It's going to be a new bookstore with a small
>coffee bar attached to it. Nice wood floors. Nice bookshelves with lots of
>space. I'm looking forward to it. It's going to open late next summer. (I'm
>hoping that will give me lots of time to build the bookcases and get
>everything ready.) It's going to named the Avid Reader.

A coffee bar goes well with a book store. I remember my first trip
to Borders Books in Peñasquitos (North San Diego area) and the treat
it was to hear a duo play and have a good cup of coffee while I
browsed and read the magazine I had just bought.

So what wood and finish have you decided on?
Solid wood or ply with solid edges?

Try a couple coats of Waterlox rubbed out with wax using 0000 steel
wool on the end caps. People will definitely comment on the smooth,
nice, warm feel of the wood, and I think that's what you're after
for the mood of the store. It's quick and easy for touchup, too.

Lacquer might be the best option for the shelves, backs, and inside of
the end caps. It should be safe with all books.

Be sure to stack, pad, and secure all the finished pieces where you
won't have to move them again. Each move is a potential scratch scene.


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

In article <[email protected]>,
S. Dees <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
>to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
>with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
>that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
>forward and out.)
>There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
>bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
>am looking at making):
>http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
>I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
>about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
>The shelves also need to be adjustable.
>Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
>Thanks for any and all help!
>Sean.

This does -not- directly address the actual question you asked, but....

Have you considered the "Lazy Man's Solution(tm)" to the basic problem?
To wit:
1) "standard design" bookcases
2) some 1x2 stock, in various lengths

Where you want to have books 'face out', you simply lay down (loose!) a strip
of appropriate length along the back of the shelf. Then stack the books in,
bottom of the book against the 'spacer', top of the book against the back of
the case. Voila! Books lean back, so they won't 'jump off the shelf'.

Do the dimensions right, and you can use the _same_ spacer for full-size
hardbounds and paperbacks, simply by rotating the stick,

Note: the 'spacer' doesn't even have to be wood -- a piece of cardboard,
folded into a triangular tube also does the job. And you've got
a continuing source of _that_ in the cartons books are sent to you in.
Hard to argue about 'free' materials. <grin>

S. Dees wrote:
> Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
> to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
> with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
> that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
> forward and out.)
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.
>
>
>
I'd try to see one in person. It appears thet the shelves are 90°
to the front and the bottom is angled so the books lean back.
Kind of like taking a normal square bookshelf and putting it on a
toekick that pitches it back. That should be much simpler to make
Joe

S. Dees <[email protected]> wrote:

> Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
> gladly look forward to hearing it.

Here is one suggestion I have not seen, though I may have missed
it in all the various posts. Cut the sides with a 90 degree
angle at the back and bottom corner, but angle the front edge
slightly toward the top. Then route grooves into the inside
of the sides parallel to the front edge. Also route a rabbet
at the back parallel to the front edge (note this rabbet will
be deeper at the bottom than at the top. Mount the shelf
bracket rails in the grooves and a back panel in the rabbet.
This give you angled shelves, the backpanel is at 90 degrees
to the shelves, and the whole piece stands straight against
a flat (plumb) wall. Assuming the angle is fairly small
this should not be too hard to accomplish, and in fairly
production-line-like fashion.

You will have to angle the top of the toe-kick to match
the angle of the bottom shelf.


Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

OK, how about this. Since you plan to display some books the "normal" way
and some face out, why not build regular bookshelves and then make a supply
of book-width wedges. Then, whereever you wish to to display a book with
the cover facing out, you slide one of the wedges under that column of books
so that they will be tilted back at the desired angle.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

A local cabinet shop predrilled a bunch of holes for me when I bought
some plywood from them and had them cut it into widths I was going to
be needing. They asked what I was doing with it and when it came out
that I was going to be using a portion for adjustable shelves they
said they had a nifty piece of equipment that would drill the holes in
a snap for a fairly inexpensive cost to me. I gave them the specs and
it worked out great.

Renata


On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:25:41 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>There is no way I want to do that much drilling... Let's see now... 50 cases
>with an average height of 84. Holes would have to be drilled from 12" to
>72". On per inch equals 60 holes per row. Times 4 rows per bookcase is 240
>holes. Times 50 bookcases is 12,000 holes!!!! No thank you!
>I have also found that the holes tend to wear out over time. The last thing
>I want to have to do is redo 12,000 holes in 10 or 15 years.... :)
>Thanks for the suggestion though...
>Sean.
>
>
>"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <161120040857151383%[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>> > As far as angled shelves, I suppose that you could simply use a router
>> > to dado out where the shelves attach to the sides. I think just a few
>> > degrees would be suffecient. If you need adjustable shelves, you could
>> > use adjustable shelf hardware (metal tracks on side) and then
>> > constrauct the actual shelf so that the front is a little thicker where
>> > it rests on the support - this would cause the tilt back that you need.
>> > You would need a little wedge under the rear of the shelf too.
>> >
>> If you use the spoon-shaped supports that fit into holes you wouldn't
>> need any wedges, the supports would rotate.
>>
>> But that's a lot of hole drilling. But maybe less work than making
>> wedges - you decide.
>>
>> --
>> Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
>

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 21:02:28 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:

>The one solution that I have found that seems to be the best so far is to
>just trim a small angle off the bottom of the sides so that the shelf
>actually leans against the wall. (Then drill a cleat into the wall to mount
>the shelf onto to provide stability, and a larger cleat at the bottom so
>that the bookcase couldn't be pushed backwards at the bottom.)

And I was half kidding when I said to do that, too. <g>

What the bookshelf companies are doing is making the shelf
deeper, then angling the backs inward and dadoing the shelves
at that angle. 2 single-panel wide ends cover two shelves with
space in the middle at the bottom.


>Thanks for all the suggestions, and if anyone has any further advice I
>gladly look forward to hearing it.

Take an angle gauge (offroad stores and Harbor Freight have them)
into a bookstore and measure the actual angle. (8 to 12 degrees
ought to do it.) Alternatively, measure the depth of the cabinet
and the depth to the back, then figure it yourself.

Mark the angle for the end pieces, then cut them to the narrow
topped beasts they'll be so they're lighter to work with.

Cut slots in the end pieces at that angle, creating a V shape for
the 2 backs, then cut the shelf dadoes @ 90 degrees to them.

If you prefinish all the pieces before cutting, a quick spray of
lacquer will tidy them up once they're assembled.

Glue 'em and screw 'em once they're at the site or consider quick
disconnect hardware so they're portable.

Good luck. That sounds like a helluva lot of heavy work even before
you get your stock of books.


Question: What type of bookstore are you opening? New, used, rare,
remaindered stock? I'm a book fiend. <scritch, scritch, scritch>


----------------------------------------------------------------
* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 00:50:19 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:

>Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
>to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
>with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
>that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
>forward and out.)
>There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
>bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
>am looking at making):
>http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
>I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
>about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
>The shelves also need to be adjustable.
>Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?

Heck, that's easy. Just make a standard bookshelf and whack
half an inch of the bottom in the back. Back two of them up
to each other and they won't fall over. ;)

I've never seen a tapered bookshelf plan, Sean. Have you asked
any bookstores where they purchased theirs? I'll bet most are
custom built by local carpenters.


----------------------------------------------------------------
* OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design
* meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos
* "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have done a fair bit of woodworking before. I was hoping for some plans
to
> just help me with the shelf angle issue. I've gotten a few very helpful
> suggestions from this group so far, and I think I have enough information
to
> make a "prototype" to see how it works out. (I can always use an extra 1
or
> 2 bookcases at home if they aren't perfect.)
> At $300 per bookcase that works out to $15,000 - $18,000 for 50 or 60
> bookcases. Plus tax. Plus shipping. And that is assuming that I can find
> someone in Canada that can do it for the same price as Franklin does it in
> the USA. I have 6 - 8 months before the grand opening of my store, and no
> other work to fill up my time until then. If I can save $5000 - $10,000 by
> doing it myself, that would be the best way to go.
> Sean

It looks to me that all they are doing is making the ends tapered and the
shelves are a uniform depth from the front and square to the front edge. The
back is probably set in a dado that is parallel to the front. I wouldn't be
surprised to find that they have heavy duty shelf standards on the ends, set
in dados, to support the adjustable shelves. Perhaps you can get a good
volume discount on the shelf standards and clips to make it pay off? They
look pretty straight forward to make... if you really want to that is!

John

I'm with the crowd that suggests regular bookshelves with "insert"
bookshelves that are full depth, have a back, and an angled bottom for
the "specials" you wish to display.

Option 2, you can have everything stored spines out, with a row of
"special" books in stands above where they are located. (single book
holder with a bar or something to prevent casual removal, and a sign
that says "see below" or possible "4th shelf from top")

Personally, while browsing dvds this past weekend, I thought it's be
nice to have a scan of the front/back cover stored in a database for
"browsing" the stacks... A public access computer linked (read only)
to your current inventory would be great... possibly with a shelf
location returned along with the other info on the book. In the books
case, you might include scans of the inside covers on books where info
on that book is kept. Keep a FAQ page for the store on that computer
as well. (I am happier when i can help myself to information rather
than having to find someon and then wait for them to be free.)

Good luck!

--
be safe.
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
Remove origin of the word spam from address to reply (leave "+")

J T wrote:
>S. Dees makes his claim that:

><snip> (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books that are
>stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
>forward and out.) <snip>
>
> Yep, if you don't slope those books, they'll leap right oout at ya.
>
> You must be from a different part of the universe than I'm from.
>I've never heard of that. And, apparenly none of the bookstores,
>schools, libraries, or anywhere else I've ever been has. If the shelves
>are level, and the books not hanging out way over the edge, they have no
>reason to fall out. Who told you that? Of course, you could be
>another one of those dull little trolls too.

Most library books are arranged with the spines facing out,
supported by adjacent books or a bookend. I think that the OP wants to
arrange the books with the front cover facing out for display
purposes. If that's the case, angling the book backwards, with a cleat
to keep the bottom of the book from sliding forward, would be a good
idea. If the shelf is below eye level, tilting the book back would
also make for better viewing.

R,
Tom Q.

S. Dees wrote:

>Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
>to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
>with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
>that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
>forward and out.)
>There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
>bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
>am looking at making):
>http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
>I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
>about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
>The shelves also need to be adjustable.
>Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
>Thanks for any and all help!

Have you considered using a separate, inclined shelf or easel placed
on a standard bookshelf?

Something like this:
http://xylemdesign.com/Easels/DisplayEasels/TableTopEasels/OakBookstandBig.asp

R,
Tom Q.

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 00:50:19 -0800, "S. Dees" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Hello, I am going to be opening a bookstore in about 6-8 months and I need
>to build about 50 - 60 bookcases. I have not been able to find any plans
>with sloped shelves. (The shelves need to be sloped backwards so that books
>that are stacked with the front cover facing out will not accidentally fall
>forward and out.)
>There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
>bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
>am looking at making):
>http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
>I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
>about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
>The shelves also need to be adjustable.
>Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
>Thanks for any and all help!
>Sean.
>
>
no source of plans, but for something like a bookshelf, do you really
need them?
It's a box with shelf supports, right??

I'd draw one out, for a material list, then figure the shelves...
find a good supplier of the material that you want to use and have
them precut the parts...
Most places do at least 2 cuts per sheet free, and if you're buying
material for FIFTY bookcases, they should give you a good price on
material and make any 4' or 8' cuts that you need..

I'd set up a table saw with a good dado set and build a crosscut sled
for it with the angle you want built into the sled.. YMMV

"S. Dees" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> There is a company called Franklin Fixtures that sells these type of
> bookcases pre-made. Here is a link to their website (so you can see what I
> am looking at making):
> http://www.franklinfixtures.com/priceval.html
> I would like to make about 35-45 of the 84" Tapered Single sided cases and
> about 15-20 of the 54" Tapered Double sided cases.
> The shelves also need to be adjustable.
> Has anyone seen any plans for these types of bookcases?
> Thanks for any and all help!
> Sean.

Have you done any woodworking at all? If not, it may be cheaper to have
them built in a production shop. If you have, why do you need plans? The
simple sketch on the Franklin web page gives the dimensions. A few minutes
with paper and pencil and you have a plan and materials list. For instance,
the 84" tapered single has a side that is 84" high. Since it is 18" deep,
you could cut the sides, oh say, 18 x 84. Go to a bookstore and take a
ruler with you for more detail.

My point is, if you have the skills to make them from plans, you have the
skills to make a simple sketch and do it. If you don't have the skills (or
tools), it may be better to have the done for you. Use the skills you do
have to make money to pay for it. A sheet of plywood ($50) will yield the
two sizes and three shelves. You need a back and four more shelves.
Material cost for the wood, edge banding, shelf pins, screws, glue, etc. is
about $125. Then add the finish of two or three coats of urethane. That
$295 is not so bad now when you factor in labor.

The prices from Franklin don't seem to be out of line at all. Freight will
be a big factor though. Check that out before you commit to anything. I'd
do them for you but I'd have to charge every bit of $300, probably more.