I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
the Chopmaster results.
For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
require sanding?
They have several blades for different uses. Woodworker II is designed for ripping on a TS, etc.
http://www.forrestblades.com/onlinecat.htm
Not inexpensive, but, as the saying goes, in the long run it's less expensive to buy one quality
blade than many cheap ones. These are outstanding quality.
"Trent©" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:54:23 -0700, "Prosecutor" <[email protected]>
| wrote:
|
| >In the past year I bought them in the reverse order. WWII first. The effortless and clean cuts
it
| >produced were remarkable. It actually leaves an almost polished surface on some woods. I say
| >"almost", as that would not be desireable for glue joints. I then purchased the Chopmaster which
I
| >am equally pleased with.
| >
| >I'm not affiliated with The Company in any way except as a very satisfied consumer
|
| Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than
| WWII...whatever that is.
|
| Does Forest sell TYPES of blades?
|
| I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine
| sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the
| Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular
| blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need
| for sanding.
|
| I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I
| thought a planer blade was something that most companies would
| sell...especially since Sears had it.
|
| BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was
| downright cheap.
|
|
| Have a nice week...
|
| Trent
|
| Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
Buy the Forrest form 3D sales. Shipping in only a couple of days and they
are normally the cheapest. I bought a reg. kerf 40 tooth WWII about 3 weeks
ago for $101 delivered.
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not in our neck of the woods. Woodcraft doesn't carry Forrest blades.
>
> >
> > Rockler and Woodcraft sell them.
> >
>
TRY one, you'll like it
to your last question: YES
dave
"Trent©" wrote:
> snip
>
> But I'm finding this thread very interesting. I would NEVER spend
> $100+ for a saw blade. And I sharpen my own.
>
> I just finished a couple of projects with the blade...and the cuts
> were just fine. And I think Sears sells a lot of these type of
> blades.
>
> Can all we cheap guys be wrong!? lol
>
> Have a nice week...
>
> Trent
>
> Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin
kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
Phil
Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
> like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
> Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
> say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
> tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
> the Chopmaster results.
>
> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
> compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
> require sanding?
>
So you are saying the blade will show me the imperfections in the set up
of my saw and techniques, making me a better wood worker. So much the
better. :)
Why two WWII's? What is the difference between the flat tooth profile
and the alternate bevel profile? Seems like either would give you a
flat bottom in a cut that doesn't go all the way through the wood.
> I have both. You must understand that there are more variables at work on a
> table saw than on a miter saw. The WWII has extremely low clearances
> between the teeth and the plate. So you have much less margin for error in
> terms of fence alignment, miter gauge alignment, proper feeding technique,
> etc. Pitch buildup on the blade will begin to cause problems a little
> sooner than it would on other blades. You also will more easily see the
> effects of twist and other imperfections in the wood while using the WWII.
> Now, having said all that, if your saw is properly set up and adjusted and
> you keep the blade clean, the WWII produces every bit the quality of cut as
> the Chopmaster. I've got two WWII's (one with a flat tooth profile), the
> Chopmaster, and the 8" Dado King and I wouldn't trade any of them.
>
> Mike Fairleigh
Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had
things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
PC wrote:
> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin
> kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
>
> Phil
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>
>> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
>> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
>> like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
>> Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts
>> that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through
>> the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after
>> seeing the Chopmaster results.
>>
>> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two
>> blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that
>> doesn't require sanding?
>>
>
(snipped)
Trent© wrote:
I would NEVER spend $100+ for a saw blade.
I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a
blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about
Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever
seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what
you get.
>
> Can all we cheap guys be wrong!? lol
No, you're not wrong - your observations are what they are. But you will
find that the cut a WWII gives you is something beyond your experience.
All this is just my opinion, of course
Regards,
David
Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that
it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch
now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.
Phil
Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had
> things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
>
> PC wrote:
>
>> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
>> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
>> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
>> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the
>> thin kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>>
>>> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
>>> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I
>>> didn't like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How
>>> does the Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read
>>> the posts that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass
>>> it through the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost
>>> believe it after seeing the Chopmaster results.
>>>
>>> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two
>>> blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that
>>> doesn't require sanding?
>>>
>>
>
Yep, that's where I bought the Chopmaster from and I have no complaints
with them. They'll be getting my business again.
Leon wrote:
> Buy the Forrest form 3D sales. Shipping in only a couple of days and they
> are normally the cheapest. I bought a reg. kerf 40 tooth WWII about 3 weeks
> ago for $101 delivered.
>
> "Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Not in our neck of the woods. Woodcraft doesn't carry Forrest blades.
>>
>>
>>>Rockler and Woodcraft sell them.
>>>
>>
>
>
On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 20:14:24 -0500, Lawrence A. Ramsey
<[email protected]> wrote:
>For $10, you don't have a blade; you have a steel disk with notches
>cut into it.
for that price you got to feel lucky it has notches (G)
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
In article <[email protected]>,
Trent© <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 20:14:07 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>wrote:
>
>>>Do you think Freud is better than a Forrest?
>>
>>Not in my opinion.
>>
>>> I'm not sure I've ever
>>>seen a Forrest in my area. I'm gonna start payin' attention to
>>>blades, I guess.
>>
>>Rockler and Woodcraft sell them.
>
>Any idea who currently makes the Craftsman blades?
>
It's I. Wan Der Hu
They're out on the Pac Rim, somewhere.
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 08:29:07 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote:
>Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had
>things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
>
no need to get a thin kerf blade. You get flex in the blade and so less accurate
cuts.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"Trent©" <[email protected]>
>
> I just finished a couple of projects with the blade...and the cuts
> were just fine. And I think Sears sells a lot of these type of
> blades.
>
> Can all we cheap guys be wrong!? lol
Until you have your saw set up properly and use a Forrest WWII, you will
never really appreciate what this blade will do. For years I putzed around
with lessor $60. blades and a hand full of the Craftsman blades. I now own
2 WWII's and they are the minimum standard that is acceptable to me now.
>
>
> Have a nice week...
>
> Trent
>
> Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
I have both. You must understand that there are more variables at work on a
table saw than on a miter saw. The WWII has extremely low clearances
between the teeth and the plate. So you have much less margin for error in
terms of fence alignment, miter gauge alignment, proper feeding technique,
etc. Pitch buildup on the blade will begin to cause problems a little
sooner than it would on other blades. You also will more easily see the
effects of twist and other imperfections in the wood while using the WWII.
Now, having said all that, if your saw is properly set up and adjusted and
you keep the blade clean, the WWII produces every bit the quality of cut as
the Chopmaster. I've got two WWII's (one with a flat tooth profile), the
Chopmaster, and the 8" Dado King and I wouldn't trade any of them.
Mike Fairleigh
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
> like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
> Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
> say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
> tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
> the Chopmaster results.
>
> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
> compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
> require sanding?
>
In article <[email protected]>, Trent© <[email protected]> wrote:
>I guess what I'm wondering, Doug, is how many different TYPES of
>blades there are.
Zillions. :-)
>
>From what I've read, I have no doubt that a Forrest is an exceptional
>blade. I don't know very much about different saw blades. I've
>actually only used a couple of different KINDS...not BRANDS...of
>blades in my life...crosscut, rip, plywood, etc. I'd never even heard
>of a planer blade before...a friend of mine led me to it...because I
>thought I was having a quality problem with my $79 saw.
>
>It was like night and day. The dust is more like powder than
>sawdust...and the cuts are straight and pretty much without blemish.
They *are* good blades, especially for the price. But there is also a
night-and-day difference between those, and a Forrest WWII.
>I know my Sears blades...and other low cost blades...won't last as
>long as a high-quality blade like the Forrest. The blades that I have
>are not carbide...and I'm guessing the Forrest are. But I sharpen my
>blades on a regular basis...myself. I like a sharp blade...and just a
>couple of hits per tooth on a regular basis keeps them in good shape.
Mostly a case of different people having different preferences, I guess. I'd
rather spend my time cutting wood than sharpening blades. I also like the fact
that I don't have to take boards through the jointer prior to edge-gluing
them. For me, the Forrest is a *major* time-saver, and to me, it's worth the
extra money.
>I like your idea about visiting a local show...but probably just to
>window shop! lol
It's easy to say "I'm just gonna look, not buy". Sticking to it, once you've
seen what's there, may be another matter. :-)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Save the baby humans - stop partial-birth abortion NOW
I get the same xcut results with an " Everlast" blade ,The surface almost
shines . But then as I did not buy the blade to give a sanded finish and in
cases where glueing up the surface need some roughness to provide a little
key for the glue .
There is a difference between Forrest and most other equivant blades, they
are generally twice the price . Should you pay those kind of prices who is
going to say they got rooked ......mjh
--
mike hide
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"PC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin
> kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
>
> Phil
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> > I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> > saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
> > like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
> > Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
> > say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
> > tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
> > the Chopmaster results.
> >
> > For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
> > compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
> > require sanding?
> >
>
--
mike hide
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"PC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin
> kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
>
> Phil
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> > I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> > saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
> > like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
> > Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
> > say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
> > tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
> > the Chopmaster results.
> >
> > For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
> > compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
> > require sanding?
> >
>
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Why two WWII's? What is the difference between the flat tooth profile
> and the alternate bevel profile? Seems like either would give you a
> flat bottom in a cut that doesn't go all the way through the wood.
No, while the standard ATB profile is needed to produce the clean crosscuts
the WWII provides, it will leave an inverted "V" profile in the bottom of a
kerf. For most applications this is not a problem but I like to use a
flat-ground one for things like splines. A lot of people just use one of
the outside plates from a stacked dado set for this purpose, but I like
having a 10" version.
Mike Fairleigh
I have both and the cuts are comparable. IME, on end grain the ChopMaster
exhibits the smoother cut ... but that is pretty much what it is designed to
do. Rip or Xcut cuts with the WWII rarely need sanding or jointing if the
saw is set up properly.
I wouldn't want to do without either of these blades.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/28/03
"Thomas Mitchell" wrote in message
> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
> like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
> Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
> say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
> tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
> the Chopmaster results.
>
> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
> compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
> require sanding?
>
Well said ... not to mention that EVERY employed cabinet and furniture maker
I know goes through more than one Forrest WWII a year. Was walking into the
WW show in Houston earlier in the year and one of Houston's best known was
walking out with ten!
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/28/03
"Leon"wrote in message
> Until you have your saw set up properly and use a Forrest WWII, you will
> never really appreciate what this blade will do.
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 01:14:25 GMT, "Doug Winterburn"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 20:16:20 -0400, Trent© wrote:
>
>
>> But have you ever used a planer blade, Dave?
>
>I still have my Sears hollow ground planer blade, but haven't used it in
>about 20 years. Carbide tipped blades go so much longer before requiring
>resharpening that it's just not worth using the old steel blades. In
>addition, I get smoother cuts with a Freud 60 tooth on my RAS than with
>the hollow ground planer, at least after making 2 or 3 cuts with the hgp.
>If an old 24 tooth steel rip blade didn't line up the numbers so well, I'd
>make a shop clock out of the old hollow ground planer :-)
>
>-Doug
So...am I understanding you correctly?...
The hgp blade cuts just as well as a Freud?...as long as its sharp?
If so, I'll keep goin' the way I am. I have no problem swapping a
little elbow grease on my end with sharpening for that green stuff
that's hard to come by! lol
Do you think Freud is better than a Forrest? I'm not sure I've ever
seen a Forrest in my area. I'm gonna start payin' attention to
blades, I guess.
Thanks for the info.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 22:20:04 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Not $100.00 worth.
>
for me it's cheep. saves me time and improves my accuracy. saves having to run
the fresh cut piece over my edge sander or getting a jointer. Plus it will save
me sharpenings so it will be cheeper in the long run.
My last rip blade lost a tooth. there goes another 40.00 down the drain.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
For $10, you don't have a blade; you have a steel disk with notches
cut into it.
On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 20:05:52 -0400, Trent© <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:54:23 -0700, "Prosecutor" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>In the past year I bought them in the reverse order. WWII first. The effortless and clean cuts it
>>produced were remarkable. It actually leaves an almost polished surface on some woods. I say
>>"almost", as that would not be desireable for glue joints. I then purchased the Chopmaster which I
>>am equally pleased with.
>>
>>I'm not affiliated with The Company in any way except as a very satisfied consumer
>
>Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than
>WWII...whatever that is.
>
>Does Forest sell TYPES of blades?
>
>I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine
>sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the
>Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular
>blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need
>for sanding.
>
>I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I
>thought a planer blade was something that most companies would
>sell...especially since Sears had it.
>
>BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was
>downright cheap.
>
>
>Have a nice week...
>
>Trent
>
>Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
In article <[email protected]>, Trent© <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 01:14:25 GMT, "Doug Winterburn"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 20:16:20 -0400, Trent© wrote:
>>
>>
>>> But have you ever used a planer blade, Dave?
>>
>>I still have my Sears hollow ground planer blade, but haven't used it in
>>about 20 years. Carbide tipped blades go so much longer before requiring
>>resharpening that it's just not worth using the old steel blades. In
>>addition, I get smoother cuts with a Freud 60 tooth on my RAS than with
>>the hollow ground planer, at least after making 2 or 3 cuts with the hgp.
>>If an old 24 tooth steel rip blade didn't line up the numbers so well, I'd
>>make a shop clock out of the old hollow ground planer :-)
>>
>>-Doug
>
>So...am I understanding you correctly?...
>
>The hgp blade cuts just as well as a Freud?...as long as its sharp?
Not in my opionion.
>
>If so, I'll keep goin' the way I am. I have no problem swapping a
>little elbow grease on my end with sharpening for that green stuff
>that's hard to come by! lol
>
>Do you think Freud is better than a Forrest?
Not in my opinion.
> I'm not sure I've ever
>seen a Forrest in my area. I'm gonna start payin' attention to
>blades, I guess.
Rockler and Woodcraft sell them.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Save the baby humans - stop partial-birth abortion NOW
Don't worry about getting the 1/8" kerf blade, I believe those blades are
for saws with less than 1hp.. Years ago before stepping up to the Forrest I
stepped up from a thin kerf to a reg kerf Systematic. That wan one a 1 hp
Craftsmen. The wider kerf Systematic cut smoother and better than the thin
kerf.
"PC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that
> it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch
> now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.
>
> Phil
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> > Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had
> > things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
> >
> > PC wrote:
> >
> >> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
> >> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
> >> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
> >> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the
> >> thin kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
> >>
> >> Phil
> >>
> >> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> >>
> >>> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
> >>> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I
> >>> didn't like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How
> >>> does the Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read
> >>> the posts that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass
> >>> it through the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost
> >>> believe it after seeing the Chopmaster results.
> >>>
> >>> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two
> >>> blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that
> >>> doesn't require sanding?
> >>>
> >>
> >
>
On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:54:23 -0700, "Prosecutor" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In the past year I bought them in the reverse order. WWII first. The effortless and clean cuts it
>produced were remarkable. It actually leaves an almost polished surface on some woods. I say
>"almost", as that would not be desireable for glue joints. I then purchased the Chopmaster which I
>am equally pleased with.
>
>I'm not affiliated with The Company in any way except as a very satisfied consumer
Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than
WWII...whatever that is.
Does Forest sell TYPES of blades?
I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine
sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the
Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular
blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need
for sanding.
I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I
thought a planer blade was something that most companies would
sell...especially since Sears had it.
BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was
downright cheap.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 19:43:54 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Tell you what Trent, I'll give you the Craftsman carbide blade if you want
>to try it. It is on the bottom of the quality scale, but should last longer
>than the steel. Right now it is hanging on the wall and probably will never
>be back in my saw again. Only thing I'd use it for is cutting some junk
>wood or kindling. Email me if you want it.
Thanks for the offer, Ed.
Sorry if I misled you and others, Ed...but I do have a carbide
blade...that I use on a regular basis. Actually, I have 2 of
them...combo blades. They came with my $79 table saw. The blades and
the saw are made by ProTech...Lowe's...and, to be honest, I never
heard of the company before then.
But I was getting wobbly cuts...and never really had a reason to
care...since I was doing only rough-in work. Then I decided to build
my first furniture project...a microwave cabinet which I recently
finished. It came out really well for my first project...but the
planer blade made a big difference in the quality of the work. And I
bought a steel blade...Sears...mainly 'cause I'm cheap...and I sharpen
them myself.
I'm guessing that the Forrest blades and all the other quality blades
only come in carbide now...or better. And I understand that they last
longer before going dull.
But I guess I haven't seen where one actually cuts better...when
new...than the other. I guess I WON'T see that...until I buy one once
and try for myself.
Thanks for all the info.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 20:14:07 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>>Do you think Freud is better than a Forrest?
>
>Not in my opinion.
>
>> I'm not sure I've ever
>>seen a Forrest in my area. I'm gonna start payin' attention to
>>blades, I guess.
>
>Rockler and Woodcraft sell them.
Any idea who currently makes the Craftsman blades?
Have a nice week...
Trent
Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 14:28:24 -0400, PC <[email protected]> wrote:
>Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that
>it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch
>now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.
>
I have a jet contractors saw. I use the 1/8" blade to cut 8/4 purpleheart padouk
ebony and such with no problems. it cuts faster then the 1/8" 20t rip blade.
the only problem it has is when the wood binds on the blade. the rip blade was
not mc uh effected by that.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 07:01:14 -0700, Jane & David
<[email protected]> wrote:
>(snipped)
>
>Trent© wrote:
>
> I would NEVER spend $100+ for a saw blade.
>
>
>I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a
>blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about
>Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever
>seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what
>you get.
>
>>
>> Can all we cheap guys be wrong!? lol
>
>
>No, you're not wrong - your observations are what they are. But you will
>find that the cut a WWII gives you is something beyond your experience.
>All this is just my opinion, of course
>
>Regards,
>
>David
But have you ever used a planer blade, Dave?
Have a nice week...
Trent
Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 07:01:14 -0700, Jane & David <[email protected]> wrote:
>I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a
>blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about
>Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever
>seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what
>you get.
hell I thought the same thing. after i wasted about the same amount on a couple
of high quality rip blades that the forrest blew away I felt a bit silly.
when a 30t forrest blade out rips two different 20t rip blades (a cmt and a
good brand) that says something. I can rip faster and cleaner with the forrest
blade.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
>A Freud Diablo cross cut blade that gives a fantastic smooth cross cut.
>I've done minor ripping, but it is not designed for that. I paid about $45
>and after a couple of years, it is ready for sharpening.
I only crosscut on my SCMS. but the difference and accuracy between my freud 80t
high end chopsaw blade and the forrest chopmaster is noticeable. the accuracy is
the big difference. no real flex in the forrest. Plus it cuts faster too. only a
30 price difference i think.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Boy, I'll second that. Once I went with a 1/8" blade, I never looked
back. Delegated some (excellant quality) of my others to rough
cutting and cutting scraps lumber. Also, I did not know it when I
bought it but my new Biesmeyer spreader/splitter DEMANDS a 1/8" kerf
blade.
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 23:12:18 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Don't worry about getting the 1/8" kerf blade, I believe those blades are
>for saws with less than 1hp.. Years ago before stepping up to the Forrest I
>stepped up from a thin kerf to a reg kerf Systematic. That wan one a 1 hp
>Craftsmen. The wider kerf Systematic cut smoother and better than the thin
>kerf.
>
>
>"PC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that
>> it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch
>> now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>> > Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had
>> > things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
>> >
>> > PC wrote:
>> >
>> >> I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is
>> >> Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the
>> >> Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious
>> >> thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the
>> >> thin kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
>> >>
>> >> Phil
>> >>
>> >> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
>> >>> saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I
>> >>> didn't like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How
>> >>> does the Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read
>> >>> the posts that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass
>> >>> it through the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost
>> >>> believe it after seeing the Chopmaster results.
>> >>>
>> >>> For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two
>> >>> blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that
>> >>> doesn't require sanding?
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>
Vermont American.
"Trent©" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Any idea who currently makes the Craftsman blades?
>
>
> Have a nice week...
>
> Trent
>
> Dyslexics of the world ... UNTIE !
I have used the Craftsman Hollow Ground Planer blades. They are a flash in
the pan and then they get dull.
Basically they are ground out thinner between the arbor hole and the teeth.
They rub less against the wood. If your hollow planer blades cut better
than your other blades, your saw is probably not set up correctly. With a
properly set up saw, the wood should not rub the sides of any blade that you
may be using.
"Trent©" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 07:01:14 -0700, Jane & David
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >(snipped)
> >
> >Trent© wrote:
> >
> > I would NEVER spend $100+ for a saw blade.
> >
> >
> >I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a
> >blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about
> >Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever
> >seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what
> >you get.
> >
> >>
> >> Can all we cheap guys be wrong!? lol
> >
> >
> >No, you're not wrong - your observations are what they are. But you will
> >find that the cut a WWII gives you is something beyond your experience.
> >All this is just my opinion, of course
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >David
>
> But have you ever used a planer blade, Dave?
>
>
> Have a nice week...
>
> Trent
>
> Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
In article <[email protected]>, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote:
>I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre
>saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't
>like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the
>Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that
>say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the
>tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing
>the Chopmaster results.
>
>For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades
>compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't
>require sanding?
>
I don't have a Chopmaster (mostly because I have a RAS instead of a CMS), but
I do have a WWII on my TS.
Yes indeed you can get an edge with the WWII that's so smooth it doesn't
require sanding -- as long as your saw is properly tuned.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Save the baby humans - stop partial-birth abortion NOW