Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits. The first c=
oat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry. Ok to recoat?
If anyone would rather argue why it is I'm using this finishing method I di=
d it several years ago and had good results. Thinning seemed to give me few=
er problems with dust and dripping and general incompetence. This will be a=
fairly utilitarian item whose surfaces will mostly be covered with objects=
. I just can't recall how much time I left between coats back then.
On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> > Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits. The
> > first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry. Ok to
> > recoat?
>=20
> What does the label on the can say?
I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and half wi=
th mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours after =
the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The surface felt compl=
etely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still do) if there was perhaps=
some sort of curing going on inside that the second coat would interfere w=
ith.
On 1/21/2017 4:01 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>>> Ok to recoat?
>>>
>>> What does the label on the can say?
>>
>> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
>> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
>
> Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
> effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>
>
>
>
>>
>> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
>> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
>> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
>> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
>> second coat would interfere with.
>
> I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry does
> not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
> before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive coats
> will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
>
>
>
>
And poly does not stick to cured poly very well. it needs a mechanical
bond. So you want to read the directions for recoating. I don't use poly
much so I can't answer, but I do know it does not adhere well to cured poly.
--
Jeff
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 1/23/2017 10:54 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 1/23/2017 9:28 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 1/21/2017 4:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>> On 1/21/2017 4:01 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>>>>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>>>>>> Ok to recoat?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What does the label on the can say?
>>>>>
>>>>> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
>>>>> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
>>>>
>>>> Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
>>>> effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
>>>>> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
>>>>> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
>>>>> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
>>>>> second coat would interfere with.
>>>>
>>>> I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry
>>>> does
>>>> not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
>>>> before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive
>>>> coats
>>>> will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> And poly does not stick to cured poly very well. it needs a mechanical
>>> bond. So you want to read the directions for recoating. I don't use poly
>>> much so I can't answer, but I do know it does not adhere well to cured
>>> poly.
>>>
>> I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
>> couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
>> couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
>> promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
>> paper or maybe some paste wax.
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>
>
>
> Typically if yo have no issue applying the next coat it will be OK. The
> biggest problem with too soon is that you damage the previous coat.
>
> I would wait a at least a few days to tub with paper and maybe a month
> with wax.
>
> If you do wax you can forgo the paper rub, apply the wax with 0000 steel
> wool.
>
>
The problem with rubbing is that it is soft, very soft. It takes a long
time to truly harden. Sandpaper quickly fills , and the filled paper can
gouge the finish.
One of the ways to sand or rub early is to use a lubricant. So for
sanding wet dry paper, soap and water lubes the finish so you can start
to level it off.
it also opens the pores (flame shields on) so that it can gas off a
little better (my opinion ) All oil and lacquer based are like this in
my opinion. If I do level it off early, I always come back because it
will require it to properly level it off.
Brown paper or even news paper are great on lacquer, I thought poly was
too hard to be cut easily with it.
--
Jeff
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 1/23/2017 9:28 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 1/21/2017 4:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>> On 1/21/2017 4:01 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>>>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>>>>> Ok to recoat?
>>>>>
>>>>> What does the label on the can say?
>>>>
>>>> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
>>>> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
>>>
>>> Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
>>> effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
>>>> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
>>>> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
>>>> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
>>>> second coat would interfere with.
>>>
>>> I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry does
>>> not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
>>> before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive coats
>>> will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> And poly does not stick to cured poly very well. it needs a mechanical
>> bond. So you want to read the directions for recoating. I don't use poly
>> much so I can't answer, but I do know it does not adhere well to cured
>> poly.
>>
> I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
> couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
> couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
> promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
> paper or maybe some paste wax.
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
Typically if yo have no issue applying the next coat it will be OK. The
biggest problem with too soon is that you damage the previous coat.
I would wait a at least a few days to tub with paper and maybe a month
with wax.
If you do wax you can forgo the paper rub, apply the wax with 0000 steel
wool.
On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>> Ok to recoat?
>>
>> What does the label on the can say?
>
> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>
> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
> second coat would interfere with.
I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry does
not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive coats
will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
On 1/21/2017 4:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/21/2017 4:01 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>>>> Ok to recoat?
>>>>
>>>> What does the label on the can say?
>>>
>>> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
>>> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
>>
>> Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
>> effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
>>> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
>>> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
>>> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
>>> second coat would interfere with.
>>
>> I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry does
>> not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
>> before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive coats
>> will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> And poly does not stick to cured poly very well. it needs a mechanical
> bond. So you want to read the directions for recoating. I don't use poly
> much so I can't answer, but I do know it does not adhere well to cured
> poly.
>
I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
paper or maybe some paste wax.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 1/23/2017 5:14 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 1/23/2017 10:54 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 1/23/2017 9:28 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 1/21/2017 4:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
>>>> On 1/21/2017 4:01 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 1/21/2017 2:50 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>>>> On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 3:39:56 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 1/21/2017 12:34 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>>>>>>> Red oak. Minwax gloss poly cut 50 percent with mineral spirits.
>>>>>>>> The first coat is on for a little short of two hours. Feels dry.
>>>>>>>> Ok to recoat?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What does the label on the can say?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I could go look at the can of poly, but wouldn't mixing it half and
>>>>>> half with mineral spirits change the reapplication time?
>>>>>
>>>>> Hard to say, mineral spirits evaporates pretty fast but may have no
>>>>> effect on the drying agents in the product itself.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In any case, I have just applied the second coat, roughly four hours
>>>>>> after the first. In other words, I chickened out a little. The
>>>>>> surface felt completely dry after 2 hours, but I wondered (and still
>>>>>> do) if there was perhaps some sort of curing going on inside that the
>>>>>> second coat would interfere with.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't think either coat has cured, that usually takes weeks. Dry
>>>>> does
>>>>> not mean cured. AND FWIW many products want you to apply another coat
>>>>> before 24 hours if you are going to do that. Typically successive
>>>>> coats
>>>>> will meld with previous coats if they have not yet cured.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> And poly does not stick to cured poly very well. it needs a mechanical
>>>> bond. So you want to read the directions for recoating. I don't use
>>>> poly
>>>> much so I can't answer, but I do know it does not adhere well to cured
>>>> poly.
>>>>
>>> I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
>>> couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
>>> couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
>>> promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
>>> paper or maybe some paste wax.
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Typically if yo have no issue applying the next coat it will be OK. The
>> biggest problem with too soon is that you damage the previous coat.
>>
>> I would wait a at least a few days to tub with paper and maybe a month
>> with wax.
>>
>> If you do wax you can forgo the paper rub, apply the wax with 0000 steel
>> wool.
>>
>>
>
> The problem with rubbing is that it is soft, very soft. It takes a long
> time to truly harden. Sandpaper quickly fills , and the filled paper can
> gouge the finish.
>
> One of the ways to sand or rub early is to use a lubricant. So for
> sanding wet dry paper, soap and water lubes the finish so you can start
> to level it off.
> it also opens the pores (flame shields on) so that it can gas off a
> little better (my opinion ) All oil and lacquer based are like this in
> my opinion. If I do level it off early, I always come back because it
> will require it to properly level it off.
>
> Brown paper or even news paper are great on lacquer, I thought poly was
> too hard to be cut easily with it.
>
Speaking as someone who 1. is pretty inexperienced and 2. has forgotten
some of the details of even my own slight experience, I'll say multiple
coats of wiping poly can be effectively rubbed with brown paper.
I am attempting to repeat a finishing method that came out pretty well
when I did it a few years back. The thinned poly was great for me, no
drips, no inconsistencies, relatively smooth with fewer nibs than
full-strength poly. But it still wasn't entirely smooth to the touch.
The brown paper definitely gave it a nice feel, quickly too. I don't
know how long I waited before rubbing, but it was most likely a week; I
usually only do woodworking on the weekends.
Was it the ultimate furniture finish? I suppose not. I haven't really
discovered how to do that yet. But it was a fairly large set of
bookcases; the finish needed to be durable and not too finicky or
time-consuming. My current project, while smaller, seemed well-suited to
the same sort of finish. So far I'm pretty pleased with it.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 1/23/17 8:28 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
> couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
> couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
> promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
> paper or maybe some paste wax.
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
Typically I'll build up coats during the day, waiting until the surface
is dry enough to not grab the brush/cloth I'm using to apply the next
coat (1-2 hours in my warm/dry finishing area). After this dries
overnight, I'll scuff it up with steel wool or flatten up with 320 paper
and mineral spirits if it is a flat surface before applying more.
I let things dry over the week (assuming I'm only finishing on the
weekend) to let things dry thoroughly before the final surface prep with
0000 wool and a good buffing with a blue shop towel.
The poly tends to shrink even after appearing dry until a few days later
(could be longer if the total build up is thicker). The shrinking
exposes the tiny scratches left from the sanding.
-BR
On 1/23/2017 10:28 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I took from these responses that it was probably OK to recoat after a
> couple of hours. I did six coats over the weekend, with anywhere from a
> couple of hours to overnight in-between. The result is looking
> promising. I may stop at this point and just rub it down with some brown
> paper or maybe some paste wax.
I used rottenstone and the wax on multiple coats of poly. Let it cure
for about 2 weeks though. It makes a really nice finish after rubbed
out and does not have the plastic look poly often has.