I have just completed a night stand in hard maple. I need to stain it to
match existing bedroom set. The top of the table has end grain exposed and
I am concerned that it will be too dark when stained. What is recommended
treatment for end grain prior to applying stain so that the color will match
the top.
--
Bob
Dave,
I have used a technique on a quilt stand that was stained a dark mahogany.
On the end grain, we wiped the end grain only with some mineral spirits
before applying the stain. The mineral spirits kept the stain from being
absorbed too deeply, and it turned out great.
As mentioned earlier, try it out on a scrap piece of wood first.
LB
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings and Salutations....
>
> On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 20:48:23 -0400, "rmemmen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have just completed a night stand in hard maple. I need to stain it to
> >match existing bedroom set. The top of the table has end grain exposed
and
> >I am concerned that it will be too dark when stained. What is
recommended
> >treatment for end grain prior to applying stain so that the color will
match
> >the top.
> >
> >--
> >Bob
> >
> >
> Got a couple of suggestions.
> 1) Seal the end with white shellac firs. That works fairly
> well, as the stain becomes a glaze that does not soak in.
> 2) I have not tried this, but, I have read that if one sands
> the end grain to a couple more grades of grit than the surface, it
> will stain lighter...so if you go to 200 grit on the surface, sand
> the endgrain to 400 grit or better.
> 3) (ok...a freebee). Don't stain it at all. Use it
> natural color, as modified by the finish itself.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
rmemmen wrote:
> I have just completed a night stand in hard maple. I need to stain it to
> match existing bedroom set. The top of the table has end grain exposed and
> I am concerned that it will be too dark when stained. What is recommended
> treatment for end grain prior to applying stain so that the color will match
> the top.
>
> --
> Bob
Either sand the end grain using a finer sand paper than used to the rests of the
table or apply a spit coat of dewaxed shellac to the end grain. As always
experiment on scrap first.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Greetings and Salutations....
On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 20:48:23 -0400, "rmemmen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have just completed a night stand in hard maple. I need to stain it to
>match existing bedroom set. The top of the table has end grain exposed and
>I am concerned that it will be too dark when stained. What is recommended
>treatment for end grain prior to applying stain so that the color will match
>the top.
>
>--
>Bob
>
>
Got a couple of suggestions.
1) Seal the end with white shellac firs. That works fairly
well, as the stain becomes a glaze that does not soak in.
2) I have not tried this, but, I have read that if one sands
the end grain to a couple more grades of grit than the surface, it
will stain lighter...so if you go to 200 grit on the surface, sand
the endgrain to 400 grit or better.
3) (ok...a freebee). Don't stain it at all. Use it
natural color, as modified by the finish itself.
Regards
Dave Mundt
Regarding Dave's 2) below, finer sanding does work. The effect varies with the
type of stain and wood used. An extreme on this is to power sand at 400 grit,
and slightly burnish the wood (tricky). More often I'll wet to raise the
grain, sand fine by hand, then apply shellac. I use a scrap piece first,
coating sections with multiples of 1/2# cut of shellac, then stain and pick
the best match.
GerryG
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 07:51:09 GMT, [email protected] (Dave Mundt) wrote:
> Greetings and Salutations....
>
>On Sun, 11 Jul 2004 20:48:23 -0400, "rmemmen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have just completed a night stand in hard maple. I need to stain it to
>>match existing bedroom set. The top of the table has end grain exposed and
>>I am concerned that it will be too dark when stained. What is recommended
>>treatment for end grain prior to applying stain so that the color will match
>>the top.
>>
>>--
>>Bob
>>
>>
> Got a couple of suggestions.
> 1) Seal the end with white shellac firs. That works fairly
>well, as the stain becomes a glaze that does not soak in.
> 2) I have not tried this, but, I have read that if one sands
>the end grain to a couple more grades of grit than the surface, it
>will stain lighter...so if you go to 200 grit on the surface, sand
>the endgrain to 400 grit or better.
> 3) (ok...a freebee). Don't stain it at all. Use it
>natural color, as modified by the finish itself.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt