I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told me that not all saws will accept a dado of
sufficient size...
Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
read heavy abuse by roadys!!
Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a router already... but those jigs cost a few
hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
Thanks!
On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 09:28:15 -0500, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Yes. I'll try to take some pics of my adjustable one and post to
>a.b.p.w
>
Hey thanks! Hope my server gets them...
What a lot of people have told you - yes.
Half-inch cuts in 5/8 or 3/4 material will give you all the glue area you
need.
As the router or tablesaw jigs do the joint one cut at a time, there is no
limit on stock width.
You could also use a combination rabbet/dado joint with modern glue and a
corner protector or two, or go the full Monte and get a locking miter..
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:28:35 -0500, "Nail Bender" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >Bob,
> >
> >How big of box joints are you planning on making? Articles I have read
on
> >making box joints have used 1/4" - 1/2" dado cuts. A jig is pretty easy
to
> >make yourself for your miter gauge. Way cheaper than buying one of those
> >dovetail jigs.
> >
> >Nailbender
> >
>
> I'm not sure how big the joint has to be... the stock will mostly by 5/8
or so pine, and the boxes will be from 1 to 3
> cubic feet in volume... I don't know a lot about this stuff!! But the
box has to be sturdy and vibration free. Some of
> this stuff will be on castors and will spend time in trucks... and rolling
down stairs!!
>
> hmmmm can I adapt my router table to some kind of jig?? I have a few
books on woodworking but nothing really good...
>
Bob,
How big of box joints are you planning on making? Articles I have read on
making box joints have used 1/4" - 1/2" dado cuts. A jig is pretty easy to
make yourself for your miter gauge. Way cheaper than buying one of those
dovetail jigs.
Nailbender
"KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'd think the router jig would be a quicker way to make box joints, though
> I've never made one. Sears sells a box joint jig much less expensive than
a
> saw.
>
> --
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
>
>
> "Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
> me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> > sufficient size...
> >
> > Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
> on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> > this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
> building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> > read heavy abuse by roadys!!
> >
> > Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
> router already... but those jigs cost a few
> > hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
>
>
Bob wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Wed, Feb 4, 2004, 6:52pm From:
[email protected] (Bob=A0Flint)
I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of sufficient size...
Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of this... so I don't plan to
spend a fortune. The main use will be for building speaker cabinets for
on the road use - read heavy abuse by roadys!!
Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few hundred bucks... similar to
a saw.
Thanks!
******************************************************
I'm assuming that you have a router table or could easily make one. Why
not make your own box joint jig which would cost about $5.00 for the
wood? All you have to do is to go to the library for almost every
woodworking book has a plan for one. I have made hundreds of box joints,
using my home made jig and my Delta shaper-router. I first tried doing
them with the same jig on my TS and much preferred the clean cut I got
with my router bit. My last project was a dozen jewelry boxes for
Christmas presents and although it was monotonous after doing the first
two or three pieces they all came out perfectly. BTW, whichever method
you use don't forget to use a "backer board" to prevent tearout.
Peace ~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8
On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 03:59:34 GMT, "Larry C in Auburn, WA" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Since you already have a router I'd go that route rather than buying a table
>saw just for this purpose. There are lots of plans for homemade jigs to
>help you. In other words, you don't have to buy a jig for a "few hundred
>bucks". Do a web search and you should find some homemade box-joint jigs
>for your router. If you don't have a router table, you can create a really
>nice one or you can get by with a piece of plywood between two saw horses
>and a 2x4 fence. I wouldn't spend a couple hundred on a table saw because
>you won't get anything decent for that price and you don't need it for what
>you want to do.
>
>Since you have a router, how about using dovetails which would be even
>stronger and not any more difficult to make? I think you can buy a simple
>dovetail jig (the basic blue one that you can buy anywhere) for $50 or less.
There is a jig on sale at Sears for $200Can that does both dovetails and box joints... I may get that since I've always
wanted to make better drawers and things...
10 years ago my mother-in-law worked at Sears, so when table saws when on
sale, I got her to buy one for me (my money of course). I brought it home
and after putting it together, I found out that it wouldn't take a ado head
cutter at all. I was stunned. I took the saw back, and bought a slightly
more expensive model. It too turned out to be a junky machine, but it took
a ado head cutter.
I know some of the "bench top styled" machines (with stands, legs, etc.)
won't take one either - and these are machines from some big-name
manufactures. My advice is to go to a tool shop where they really know
tools and talk to them - they'll look after you.
PS - I since got rid of that lousy craftsman - saggy steel side supports and
all, and I now have a Unisaw, and it can do everything.
Brian
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
>
> Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
Since you already have a router I'd go that route rather than buying a table
saw just for this purpose. There are lots of plans for homemade jigs to
help you. In other words, you don't have to buy a jig for a "few hundred
bucks". Do a web search and you should find some homemade box-joint jigs
for your router. If you don't have a router table, you can create a really
nice one or you can get by with a piece of plywood between two saw horses
and a 2x4 fence. I wouldn't spend a couple hundred on a table saw because
you won't get anything decent for that price and you don't need it for what
you want to do.
Since you have a router, how about using dovetails which would be even
stronger and not any more difficult to make? I think you can buy a simple
dovetail jig (the basic blue one that you can buy anywhere) for $50 or less.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
>
> Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
A lot of the low end saws at Sears will accept only a 1/2 inch dado blade.
Check out the specs first. That being said, I've never made a box joint
using anything larger than 1/2 inch joint, so it may be fine for you.
Joey in Chesapeake
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
>
> Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
Box joint jigs for the table saw can be made out of scrap hence you can
build several different sizes for pennies. I use 2 pieces of 5/8" plywood
glued back-to-back. Only down-side I can see is with longer pieces and
height of ceiling. Like a previous post said, a 1/2 arbor will work for
most things (although I do use a 5/8" jig from time to time) but 1/2" will
give you plenty of "fingers" to glue without compromising the strength of
the wood.
"MJT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The super simple box joint jigs made by Oak Park for the router are very
> inexpensive. Too bad they don't have a mini video on their site. I've seen
> it in use, and it does work. Quite frankly, I just picked up some UHMW
> plastic and plan on making one myself.
>
> They show it attached to their own router table, but you could attach it
to
> any table with screws or possibly clamps.
>
> Michel.
> www.woodstoneproductions.com
>
>
>
>
> "Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
> me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> > sufficient size...
> >
> > Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
> on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> > this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
> building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> > read heavy abuse by roadys!!
> >
> > Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
> router already... but those jigs cost a few
> > hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
>
>
The super simple box joint jigs made by Oak Park for the router are very
inexpensive. Too bad they don't have a mini video on their site. I've seen
it in use, and it does work. Quite frankly, I just picked up some UHMW
plastic and plan on making one myself.
They show it attached to their own router table, but you could attach it to
any table with screws or possibly clamps.
Michel.
www.woodstoneproductions.com
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
>
> Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
I'd think the router jig would be a quicker way to make box joints, though
I've never made one. Sears sells a box joint jig much less expensive than a
saw.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
>
> Can anyone comment on this? I was planning on getting something at Sears
on sale. I don't plan a real lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
"Bob Flint" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I was thinking of getting a table saw to do box joints, but someone told
me that not all saws will accept a dado of
> sufficient size...
Most of the higher priced saw will accept a 13/16 dado. Some of the lower
priced saw will accept only 1/2" Read the specifications carefully.
>
> I was planning on getting something at Sears on sale. I don't plan a real
lot of use of
> this... so I don't plan to spend a fortune. The main use will be for
building speaker cabinets for on the road use -
> read heavy abuse by roadys!!
Consider a used saw if you want low cost.
>
> Or should I instead get a router box joint and dovetail jig? I have a
router already... but those jigs cost a few
> hundred bucks... similar to a saw.
>
Not familiar with the jigs.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 09:28:35 -0500, "Nail Bender" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bob,
>
>How big of box joints are you planning on making? Articles I have read on
>making box joints have used 1/4" - 1/2" dado cuts. A jig is pretty easy to
>make yourself for your miter gauge. Way cheaper than buying one of those
>dovetail jigs.
>
>Nailbender
>
I'm not sure how big the joint has to be... the stock will mostly by 5/8 or so pine, and the boxes will be from 1 to 3
cubic feet in volume... I don't know a lot about this stuff!! But the box has to be sturdy and vibration free. Some of
this stuff will be on castors and will spend time in trucks... and rolling down stairs!!
hmmmm can I adapt my router table to some kind of jig?? I have a few books on woodworking but nothing really good...
Yes. I'll try to take some pics of my adjustable one and post to
a.b.p.w
On Sat, 07 Feb 2004 19:30:10 -0500, Bob Flint
<[email protected]> wrote:
>hmmmm can I adapt my router table to some kind of jig??