It seems to be the "What plane shall I buy?" season again. As I've
just spent an afternoon mucking out a crate of old moulders and
getting them running again (and debugged !) I was wondering if I was
the only one still left using them ?
Anyone else prefer an old moulder for making mouldings, rather than
that noisy router ? Anyone else prefer the _finish_ of a planed
moulding, rather than one from a small circular cutter ?
Anyone still bothering to use wooden plain rebate planes, or do you
just stick with the funy shapes ?
[email protected] (Ken Muldrew) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
>>
>>I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
>>things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
>>ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
>>vouchers !
>
> Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
> across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
> the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
> selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
Lots of them on e-bay. Bought a couple myself and have been very pleased
with them. Note that you can also buy them new. I think Lee Valley have a
few.
>
> If you ever come over here bring a suitcase full of them and sell them
> as antiques. You'll pay for your trip.
>
> Ken Muldrew
> [email protected]
> (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
>
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 12:42:46 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>That's a big problem with most sellers on
>>eBay concerning these types of planes, is the images they show, far
>>too many are inadequate.
>
> They never show the profiles !
>
Here is an exception: item # 6120702585
IIRC, this guy *always* shows the profile and most of the time shows the
full iron. In fact, the thumbnail for every one of his current molding
planes is the profile.
Here's another one: 6121357999
Unfortunately a lot of the sellers are in the Aunty Cue bidness and don't
really know how to sell to users vs collectors.
LD
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 14:02:15 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Looking through Tolpin's toolchest book:
Don't have it to hand, I'm afraid.
> One of the student chests has a
>curved molding (flat stock, molding around an arc). Trivial with a power
>router, but I've never seen a hand tool that would do it.
There are a few that can do it.
A moulding spokeshave - this is how it was typically done.
Like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6119557507&ssPageName=STRK:MEDW:IT
or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6119559556&ssPageName=STRK:MEDW:IT
A variant on a cooper's croze - a cross between compass plane and
moulder. These were mainly a cooper's or wheelwright's tool, because
they're limited to a single radius.
A scratch stock. Short, but not very good cross-grain though.
There are also short moulding planes with "tailed" handles. These can
often be persuaded to work short runs of shallow external curves, or
even an internal curve if the sole has a little "belly" to it.
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>Anyone else prefer an old moulder for making mouldings, rather than
>that noisy router ? Anyone else prefer the _finish_ of a planed
>moulding, rather than one from a small circular cutter ?
I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them, but
the steel work is still kind of intimidating. So for now I'll stick to
the routah. How tough is it to do cross-grain moulding with a plane?
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 10:40:15 GMT, Rick Cook
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >These are the half cones. I've got a fine India stone in that shape and I've
> >found it very useful. It's a matter of how you manipulate the tool against the
> >stone.
>
> I can see that working in an India stone, but for a waterstone any
> sort of constant radius movement looked like it would very quickly
> wear a groove.
>
> >It's especially important because you spend a _lot_ of time honing your carving
> >tools as you work. If you're away from your bench, waterstones (or even oil
> >stones) are much less convenient than the grooves charged with abrasive.
>
> I'm not a carver, and if I am doing any carving it's almost always in
> lime or maybe walnut, neither of which are hard on tools. I do try to
> keep a dedicated area of the workshop for sharpening though, to reduce
> setup time if I want to quickly hone something.
>
> --
> Smert' spamionam
Even in lime (or it's American equivalent, basswood) or walnut you need to hone your
tools constantly. Like every few minutes. Trust me, it makes an enormous difference
in carving. You can use a stop which will conform to the shape of the tools or you
can use the groove method, but in either case it's charged with honing compound.
--RC
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 10:40:15 GMT, Rick Cook
<[email protected]> wrote:
>These are the half cones. I've got a fine India stone in that shape and I've
>found it very useful. It's a matter of how you manipulate the tool against the
>stone.
I can see that working in an India stone, but for a waterstone any
sort of constant radius movement looked like it would very quickly
wear a groove.
>It's especially important because you spend a _lot_ of time honing your carving
>tools as you work. If you're away from your bench, waterstones (or even oil
>stones) are much less convenient than the grooves charged with abrasive.
I'm not a carver, and if I am doing any carving it's almost always in
lime or maybe walnut, neither of which are hard on tools. I do try to
keep a dedicated area of the workshop for sharpening though, to reduce
setup time if I want to quickly hone something.
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
>wrote:
>
>>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
>
>I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
>things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
>ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
>vouchers !
Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
If you ever come over here bring a suitcase full of them and sell them
as antiques. You'll pay for your trip.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Ken Muldrew notes:
>Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
>across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
>the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
>selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
>
>If you ever come over here bring a suitcase full of them and sell them
>as antiques. You'll pay for your trip.
You need to check out ebay. Try "moulding planes" and "molding planes", no
quotes.
In the first, there are some decent looking Brit planes, while there's a really
nice US set (Rhode Island) in the second. That one is the highest of the bunch
right now, at $45. Most are around or under ten bucks (and some aren't worth
anything at all).
I don't know what the tax and shipping and whatnot would translate to in
Calgary, but it should be less than 150 bucks per.
Charlie Self
"America does not go abroad in search of monsters to destroy. She is the
well-wisher to freedom and independence of all. She is the champion and
vindicator only of her own." John Quincy Adams
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote:
>You need to check out ebay. Try "moulding planes" and "molding planes", no
>quotes.
Wow, there are a lot of them on ebay. I still want to make one but
perhaps it would be wise to have a model to work from.
>I don't know what the tax and shipping and whatnot would translate to in
>Calgary, but it should be less than 150 bucks per.
Many ebayers ship UPS, and sadly, a UPS cross-border shipment can
easily be damn near $150. The worst part is the 40% they charge for
filling out the customs form. I don't want to ever give UPS any more
business for the rest of my days.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
AAvK wrote:
> > No cracks in the body, the iron still has its tang and is not pitted
> > beyond recovery, the wedge fits and the profile on the body is still
> > relatively crisp. Oh yes, and no rot on the body. Maybe one out of two
> > or three moulding planes I have seen for sale is "good and usable".
> > Sharpening is usually required.
>
> Yeah that sharpening is tricky and requires special stones for carvers.
> Alex
Not that tricky and the stones are inexpensive enough. As a woodcarver I do
it all the time and in fact I have several bent knives, gouges and a small
scorp that I'm in the process of sharpening and tuning sitting on the desk
behind me. (I work on them between working on the computer.)
What that sharpening is is time-consuming, especially on a complex profile.
(OTOH -- I sharpen my carving tools to a slightly convex cross section,
which helps them cut the way I want them too. I don't know if that would be
acceptable on a molding plane iron.)
--RC
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 20:46:16 GMT, Rick Cook
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Not that tricky and the stones are inexpensive enough.
>
> I make my own. I use waterstones, and I already saw them up for some
> final sword polishing jobs. A wet diamond tile saw does it fine. If I
> need a special for a gouge, I can saw one roughly, then sand it to
> shape with a bit of J-Flex.
I don't bother trying to match the profile that I'm sharpening exactly
with the stone I'm using. Instead I may use several different shaped
stones on different parts of the same profile. Cuts down on the number of
stones I need to support a whole bunch of carving tools.
Currently I'm lusting after a set of waterstones shaped like conical gouge
stones. Concave on one side and convex on the other and able to handle a
wide variety of profiles.
--RC
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 06:48:33 GMT, Rick Cook
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Currently I'm lusting after a set of waterstones shaped like conical gouge
> >stones. Concave on one side and convex on the other and able to handle a
> >wide variety of profiles.
>
> Is this the parallel groove set, or the half-cone ?
>
> I have one of the half-cones and never use it. It fits perfectly so
> long as you're not moving the gouge. If you are moving the gouge back
> and forth to sharpen it, you're using the wrong radius more than the
> right one !
>
> I prefer a range of rectangular lumps, with one edge ground into an
> appropriate radius.
These are the half cones. I've got a fine India stone in that shape and I've
found it very useful. It's a matter of how you manipulate the tool against the
stone. OTOH I've got a couple of waterstones with the parallel grooves and I
never use them.
There is a very effective alternative to buying a bunch of stones if you prefer
the parallel grooves. That is to glue a piece of leather to wood (or just use a
piece of hardwood), use the tool to cut a groove in it and then charge the
groove with the appropriate abrasive compound. I know some carvers who swear by
this method.
It's especially important because you spend a _lot_ of time honing your carving
tools as you work. If you're away from your bench, waterstones (or even oil
stones) are much less convenient than the grooves charged with abrasive.
--RC
Ken Muldrew wrote:
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
>>
>>I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
>>things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
>>ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
>>vouchers !
>
>
> Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
> across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
> the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
> selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
Hmm. May I should link this back to the "Europe is a rip-off"
post.
BugBear
Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
> Note that you can also buy them new. I think Lee Valley have a
>few.
Nope. They have a book that describes how to make them (which I have),
but the closest that they sell is the Japanese wooden roundover plane.
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm surprised you haven't found any in Calgary. I've got about half a
>dozen in working order, found here in the Yukon in antique shops, the
>Dawson City Trading Post, etc. And I've only bought the good ones that
>were usable.
Even the oldest buildings in Calgary are made of glass. ;-) I'm not
surprised that this is the worst place in the world for finding
moulding planes, but the abundance that seems to exist in every
direction continues to amaze me. I'll have to get out more.
>My brother has promised to send me my grandfather Luigi's set from
>Montreal.
>I'm not telling you when he's sending them, in case you're tempted to
>intercept the shipment.
Hmmm...I've been planning a trip north for some time now...
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
AAvK wrote:
>>They never show the profiles !
>
>
>
> They also never show how much blade is left, and many really bad, fuzzy pictures.
I don't think I've ever seen a moulding plane with significant
wear on the blade.
Rust and bad sharpening, rot and worm, yes, often.
But moulding planes have an easy life, compared to bench planes.
Often, they weren't even used to create the moulding profile
from scratch. Some roughing work was done with other
planes (jacks, ploughs, rebates) to remove the bulk of the waste,
BugBear
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 18:56:38 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]>
queried:
>Luigi let me ask, what is a "good" and useable molding plane? What do I
>need to look for in the qualities one should be in?
No cracks in the body, the iron still has its tang and is not pitted
beyond recovery, the wedge fits and the profile on the body is still
relatively crisp. Oh yes, and no rot on the body. Maybe one out of two
or three moulding planes I have seen for sale is "good and usable".
Sharpening is usually required.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
wrote:
>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
vouchers !
>How tough is it to do cross-grain moulding with a plane?
Works OK, but you have to be careful. A good round will have a tight
mouth, but some of the complex mouldings are pretty loose - this can
be a problem. Some (mainly rebates and fillisters) have cross grain
nickers but most don't. I just score beforehand with my marking knife.
If I'm moulding free-hand, I tend to scribe a guide line first anyway.
--
Smert' spamionam
> You don't need "good", you need "adequate"
> "Adequate" means that the mouth is in good order, and with some effort
> you can get it to work as a plane.
> "Good" means that it also has a usable wedge, there's no woodworm, the
> iron has a flattish surface where it ought to and it's more or less
> clean. You can live with any of these faults, or re-make broken
> wedges.
I guess I'd only want "good" ones, fettling is hard friggen work as I've discovered.
I have now spent many hours doing what I have been reading about since catching
interest and getting into this group! That's a big problem with most sellers on
eBay concerning these types of planes, is the images they show, far too many are
inadequate.
Alex
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in news:hQJ6d.1554$mS1.1454@fed1read05:
>
>> See:
>> How to Make Wooden Planes
>> by David G. Perch
>> Making Traditional Wooden Planes
>> by John M. Whelan
>> Making and Mastering Wood Planes
>> by David Finck
>> (I have a copy of the last one and would buy it again.)
>> Plus a number of books on American and British wooden plane makers.
>> Also:
>> http://www.supertool.com/etcetera/wplanes/woodintro.htm
>
>
> Great references, thanks. I have the one by John M. Whelan already
> and the designs seem very simplistic from the past, a starting point.
> As it is now, I am fascinated, but am at a complete novice stage in
> learning "neander" woodwork so it is a future project. But definitely.
>
> Alex
>
>
Give a shout if you find an online source for irons. Thanks.
LD
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 12:42:46 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>That's a big problem with most sellers on
>eBay concerning these types of planes, is the images they show, far too many are
>inadequate.
They never show the profiles !
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
> I'm surprised you haven't found any in Calgary. I've got about half a
> dozen in working order, found here in the Yukon in antique shops, the
> Dawson City Trading Post, etc. And I've only bought the good ones that
> were usable.
Luigi let me ask, what is a "good" and useable molding plane? What do I
need to look for in the qualities one should be in?
Alex
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 20:46:16 GMT, Rick Cook
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Not that tricky and the stones are inexpensive enough.
I make my own. I use waterstones, and I already saw them up for some
final sword polishing jobs. A wet diamond tile saw does it fine. If I
need a special for a gouge, I can saw one roughly, then sand it to
shape with a bit of J-Flex.
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 14:02:15 -0500, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 19:55:41 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:
>
>>>How tough is it to do cross-grain moulding with a plane?
>>
>> Works OK, but you have to be careful. A good round will have a tight
>> mouth, but some of the complex mouldings are pretty loose - this can
>> be a problem. Some (mainly rebates and fillisters) have cross grain
>> nickers but most don't. I just score beforehand with my marking knife.
>> If I'm moulding free-hand, I tend to scribe a guide line first anyway.
>
>Looking through Tolpin's toolchest book: One of the student chests has a
>curved molding (flat stock, molding around an arc). Trivial with a power
>router, but I've never seen a hand tool that would do it. Cross between a
>compass plane and a molding plane? Have to whittle a new plane body for
>each curve... Or would one just use a gouge?
for shallow cuts, a scratch stock.
Hi, Ken,
Andy wasn't exaggerating - they are as cheap as chips over here. Go to any
local auction or boot sale and you can pick up a boxful for a tenner. Or
have a look at ebay (That's Ebay.co.uk, as opposed to Ebay.com. Look under
collectables>tools and do a search on "moulding". At the moment there's a
bunch from the mid 1700s, for less than 20 bucks each.
I have perhaps 10-12, but seldom use them. Using them isn't _that_hard if
you're working long-grain in fairly mild wood, but some of the more complex
shapes are tricky to sharpen. The really big ones took two men to work
them. They had a hole bored in the fore-end with a rope through it - the
master held the plane at the correct angle, and the apprentice towed it
through the wood with the rope.
Cheers
Frank
"Ken Muldrew" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
> >wrote:
> >
> >>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
> >
> >I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
> >things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
> >ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
> >vouchers !
>
> Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
> across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
> the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
> selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
>
> If you ever come over here bring a suitcase full of them and sell them
> as antiques. You'll pay for your trip.
>
> Ken Muldrew
> [email protected]
> (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.742 / Virus Database: 495 - Release Date: 19/08/2004
> No cracks in the body, the iron still has its tang and is not pitted
> beyond recovery, the wedge fits and the profile on the body is still
> relatively crisp. Oh yes, and no rot on the body. Maybe one out of two
> or three moulding planes I have seen for sale is "good and usable".
> Sharpening is usually required.
Yeah that sharpening is tricky and requires special stones for carvers.
Alex
> See:
> How to Make Wooden Planes
> by David G. Perch
> Making Traditional Wooden Planes
> by John M. Whelan
> Making and Mastering Wood Planes
> by David Finck
> (I have a copy of the last one and would buy it again.)
> Plus a number of books on American and British wooden plane makers.
> Also:
> http://www.supertool.com/etcetera/wplanes/woodintro.htm
Great references, thanks. I have the one by John M. Whelan already
and the designs seem very simplistic from the past, a starting point.
As it is now, I am fascinated, but am at a complete novice stage in
learning "neander" woodwork so it is a future project. But definitely.
Alex
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:46:45 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
scribbled:
>Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
>>
>>I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
>>things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
>>ones - I've known toolshops pyrograph the sides and use them as gift
>>vouchers !
>
>Now there's a gloat and a half! In all my searching I've only come
>across one. It was in an antique shop, the body was split in half, and
>the iron was a bent piece of rust. If I remember correctly, it was
>selling for $150. This thing wasn't even good enough for firewood.
>
>If you ever come over here bring a suitcase full of them and sell them
>as antiques. You'll pay for your trip.
I'm surprised you haven't found any in Calgary. I've got about half a
dozen in working order, found here in the Yukon in antique shops, the
Dawson City Trading Post, etc. And I've only bought the good ones that
were usable.
My brother has promised to send me my grandfather Luigi's set from
Montreal. According to my mother, they were used to do all the
chestnut mouldings in the apartment I grew up in. One of the first
things my parents did when they got married was to strip off all the
RBS and varnish the mouldings and doors. Larry prolly got his ideas
about stain from my father who was disgusted with the North Americans
practise of hiding the beauty of wood. An opinion which I share. But
I'm not telling you when he's sending them, in case you're tempted to
intercept the shipment.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in news:hcP6d.1899$mS1.1371@fed1read05:
>
>> Give a shout if you find an online source for irons. Thanks.
>>
>>
> Shouting,
>
> Both Ron Hock and Clarke and Williams will do custom work.
>
> Alex
>
>
>
Thanks.
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 19:55:41 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:
>>How tough is it to do cross-grain moulding with a plane?
>
> Works OK, but you have to be careful. A good round will have a tight
> mouth, but some of the complex mouldings are pretty loose - this can
> be a problem. Some (mainly rebates and fillisters) have cross grain
> nickers but most don't. I just score beforehand with my marking knife.
> If I'm moulding free-hand, I tend to scribe a guide line first anyway.
Looking through Tolpin's toolchest book: One of the student chests has a
curved molding (flat stock, molding around an arc). Trivial with a power
router, but I've never seen a hand tool that would do it. Cross between a
compass plane and a molding plane? Have to whittle a new plane body for
each curve... Or would one just use a gouge?
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in news:xBl6d.35$mS1.1@fed1read05:
>
>> It seems to be the "What plane shall I buy?" season again. As I've
>> just spent an afternoon mucking out a crate of old moulders and
>> getting them running again (and debugged !) I was wondering if I was
>> the only one still left using them ?
>> Anyone else prefer an old moulder for making mouldings, rather than
>> that noisy router ? Anyone else prefer the _finish_ of a planed
>> moulding, rather than one from a small circular cutter ?
>> Anyone still bothering to use wooden plain rebate planes, or do you
>> just stick with the funy shapes ?
>>
>
>
> Not using them myself but I want to learn to, I have this idea as a
> part box / jewelry box making with molding planes, to do both edges in
> design as well as the top paneling as one uncut board, then do the
> cutting, miter cutting and any dovetail work after, then assemble. My
> problem is learning just "what" to buy and know about in these
> complex planes, including what hollows and rounds are about.
> There isn't a website I can find that is all about it. Any ideas?
> Books? unknown websites?
See:
How to Make Wooden Planes
by David G. Perch
Making Traditional Wooden Planes
by John M. Whelan
Making and Mastering Wood Planes
by David Finck
(I have a copy of the last one and would buy it again.)
Plus a number of books on American and British wooden plane makers.
Also:
http://www.supertool.com/etcetera/wplanes/woodintro.htm
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Here is an exception: item # 6120702585
> IIRC, this guy *always* shows the profile and most of the time shows the
> full iron. In fact, the thumbnail for every one of his current molding
> planes is the profile.
> Here's another one: 6121357999
> Unfortunately a lot of the sellers are in the Aunty Cue bidness and don't
> really know how to sell to users vs collectors.
Great examples, in the normal manner of speaking. Any seller should do the same.
Wenner1 is a great seller too, with a perfect record and perfect auction pages.
0 negs and 0 neutrals.
Alex
Alex notes:
>> They never show the profiles !
>
>
>They also never show how much blade is left, and many really bad, fuzzy
>pictures.
And you can bet that in nine cases out of ten, that's no accident.
Charlie Self
"Politics, n. Strife of interests masquerading as a contest of principles."
Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 06:48:33 GMT, Rick Cook
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Currently I'm lusting after a set of waterstones shaped like conical gouge
>stones. Concave on one side and convex on the other and able to handle a
>wide variety of profiles.
Is this the parallel groove set, or the half-cone ?
I have one of the half-cones and never use it. It fits perfectly so
long as you're not moving the gouge. If you are moving the gouge back
and forth to sharpen it, you're using the wrong radius more than the
right one !
I prefer a range of rectangular lumps, with one edge ground into an
appropriate radius.
On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 18:56:38 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>what is a "good" and useable molding plane?
You don't need "good", you need "adequate"
"Adequate" means that the mouth is in good order, and with some effort
you can get it to work as a plane.
"Good" means that it also has a usable wedge, there's no woodworm, the
iron has a flattish surface where it ought to and it's more or less
clean. You can live with any of these faults, or re-make broken
wedges.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 21:37:23 +0200, Juergen Hannappel
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
>> things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
>
>Where?
Bristol, UK
So you can guess the shop 8-)
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
> On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:35:50 GMT, [email protected] (Ken Muldrew)
> wrote:
>
>>I intend to try building a couple some day to see how I like them,
>
> I've never understood that - maybe I'm just over-supplied for the
> things. They're practically firewood around here, certainly the rough
Where?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
> It seems to be the "What plane shall I buy?" season again. As I've
> just spent an afternoon mucking out a crate of old moulders and
> getting them running again (and debugged !) I was wondering if I was
> the only one still left using them ?
> Anyone else prefer an old moulder for making mouldings, rather than
> that noisy router ? Anyone else prefer the _finish_ of a planed
> moulding, rather than one from a small circular cutter ?
> Anyone still bothering to use wooden plain rebate planes, or do you
> just stick with the funy shapes ?
>
Not using them myself but I want to learn to, I have this idea as a part
box / jewelry box making with molding planes, to do both edges in
design as well as the top paneling as one uncut board, then do the
cutting, miter cutting and any dovetail work after, then assemble. My
problem is learning just "what" to buy and know about in these
complex planes, including what hollows and rounds are about.
There isn't a website I can find that is all about it. Any ideas? Books?
unknown websites?
Alex