Geo wrote: What is the best thickness for resawing logs that will
ultimately yeild
usable lumber that will be be 3/4"? Thanks.
It depends on the logs' characteristics. If the slab you cut from the
log does anything other than remain flat, you'll have to figure that
reaction into your initial thickness. If it's behaving though, I'd cut
close to >7/8 ths. Tom
When I get wood from the store, I have found that if I start with 15/16
stock, by the time I joint and plane it, I am down to 13/16. If I then
glue up a panel, by the time it is sanded down, I have 3/4 or less.
Rough sawn stock, should be at least 1/4 inch over desired finisned
stock thickness. 3/8 inch over leaves some room for error.
robo hippy
On 8 Jun 2005 07:03:41 -0700, "Geo" <[email protected]> wrote:
>What is the best thickness for resawing logs that will ultimately yeild
>usable lumber that will be be 3/4"? Thanks.
IMHO, as thick as you can allow without wasting wood... really depends on the
size of the stock/log that you're resawing...
Try to allow for planing off warp, twist, etc... plus sanding...
You can always size them later when they're dry, for a particular project, but
it's a lot easier to make a board thinner than it is to make it thicker...
mac
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"Geo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the best thickness for resawing logs that will ultimately yeild
> usable lumber that will be be 3/4"? Thanks.
>
One inch (4/4), if the saw is well aligned. Boards containing sapwood are
probably better at inch and an eighth to 5/4 , if you're calling the cuts.
They're going to bow.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 20:12:31 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> >If you have the time, and the timber's valuable enough that you want to
> >lose the absolute minimum, then even sawing to 12/4 can be worthwhile.
> >
> >Quarter sawing is another approach. For typical "amateur" stack-drying,
> >the improvement in reduced cupping losses can save you more than you
> >lose for the less efficient sawing. And the timber is a bit nicer.
>
> wow.. I never would have thought of cutting them thick, then resowing when
> they're dry... that will be exactly how I do it on my upcoming project..
>
Uh, Mac, there's a real problem drying thicker stock without degrade,
especially with some species. The inverse square law appears to apply, with
twice as thick taking almost four times as long, which is probably why Andy
mentioned the time requirement.
No guarantee of stability, either. I've seen saw/dry/rip stock corkscrew
off the saw.
On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:23:07 -0400, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Uh, Mac, there's a real problem drying thicker stock without degrade,
>especially with some species.
Three inch isn't "thick" though. I wouldn't go thicker, but that mch is
OK.
>The inverse square law appears to apply, with
>twice as thick taking almost four times as long, which is probably why Andy
>mentioned the time requirement.
Drying usually takes an integral number of years (at least in my
climate), so "year an inch" still holds reasonably well. Go thicker and
you'll need a good depth-reading meter to know what's going on and you
will be kept waiting for it.
>No guarantee of stability, either. I've seen saw/dry/rip stock corkscrew
>off the saw.
If it's warping straight off the saw, that's more likely a kilning fault
than an inherent problem with the timber. For "amateur" levels, building
a good stack (which includes being serious about keeping the rain off)
and air-drying it is much less risky than home-built kilns.
Best drying shed I've seen was an old Victorian school and the outdoor
toilet block (fittings and partitions stripped to make a storage shed).
Well constructed of brick with a leak-free slate roof, even 150 years
on, and with a slatted clerestory running the length of the roof. Just
perfect for air drying timber in, without worrying about rain spoilage.
--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.
On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 20:12:31 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 8 Jun 2005 07:03:41 -0700, "Geo" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>What is the best thickness for resawing logs that will ultimately yeild
>>usable lumber that will be be 3/4"? Thanks.
>
>8/4 - Then dry them, then after they're dry, resaw them again before
>planing.
>
>If you cut them too thin to start with, the risk is that cupping
>(somewhat inevitable) will lose too much timber when you have to flatten
>them again. The thicker they are when they're drying, the less you have
>to take off for cupping later.
>
>If you have the time, and the timber's valuable enough that you want to
>lose the absolute minimum, then even sawing to 12/4 can be worthwhile.
>
>Quarter sawing is another approach. For typical "amateur" stack-drying,
>the improvement in reduced cupping losses can save you more than you
>lose for the less efficient sawing. And the timber is a bit nicer.
wow.. I never would have thought of cutting them thick, then resowing when
they're dry... that will be exactly how I do it on my upcoming project..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On 8 Jun 2005 07:03:41 -0700, "Geo" <[email protected]> wrote:
>What is the best thickness for resawing logs that will ultimately yeild
>usable lumber that will be be 3/4"? Thanks.
8/4 - Then dry them, then after they're dry, resaw them again before
planing.
If you cut them too thin to start with, the risk is that cupping
(somewhat inevitable) will lose too much timber when you have to flatten
them again. The thicker they are when they're drying, the less you have
to take off for cupping later.
If you have the time, and the timber's valuable enough that you want to
lose the absolute minimum, then even sawing to 12/4 can be worthwhile.
Quarter sawing is another approach. For typical "amateur" stack-drying,
the improvement in reduced cupping losses can save you more than you
lose for the less efficient sawing. And the timber is a bit nicer.
--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.
On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:23:07 -0400, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 20:12:31 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>> >If you have the time, and the timber's valuable enough that you want to
>> >lose the absolute minimum, then even sawing to 12/4 can be worthwhile.
>> >
>> >Quarter sawing is another approach. For typical "amateur" stack-drying,
>> >the improvement in reduced cupping losses can save you more than you
>> >lose for the less efficient sawing. And the timber is a bit nicer.
>>
>> wow.. I never would have thought of cutting them thick, then resowing when
>> they're dry... that will be exactly how I do it on my upcoming project..
>>
>
>Uh, Mac, there's a real problem drying thicker stock without degrade,
>especially with some species. The inverse square law appears to apply, with
>twice as thick taking almost four times as long, which is probably why Andy
>mentioned the time requirement.
>
>No guarantee of stability, either. I've seen saw/dry/rip stock corkscrew
>off the saw.
>
yabut...
Time isn't a real factor if you're getting a rotation going...
I'm just thinking that cutting them to maybe 1" instead of 3/8" (I want mostly
drawer faces and stuff from them) is 1/2 as much green wood to saw and 1/2 the
stacking and turning...
mac
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