So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
`Casper
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 2/5/13 9:15 AM, Casper wrote:
>>> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
>>> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>>>
>>> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
>>> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
>>> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>>>
>>> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
>>> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
>>> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
>>> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
>>> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
>>> `Casper
>>>
>>
>> http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
>>
>> Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
>> burning distractions.
>> Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
>> techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
>>
>
>
> If there is pitting, that is permanent.
>
> To clean up next to like new and to further protect I find that his product
> does a very good job.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5305-Top-Saver-Kit/dp/B0000TG4CY
Shop the product. Better pricing here.
http://www.wmooreprofiles.com/p-4200-top-saver-kit.aspx
> Use a sanding block with 220 aluminum oxide paper, lube with light oil,
> plenty of elbow grease. Scott
I kept ihitting it with WD40 and a green scour pad but not much came off.
Next day, after a few more applications of WD40 soaked into a paper towel,
i used a coarse grit Norton sanding block. All rust gone and no pitting!
You can see a very faint outline if you look at it from a low side angle
but cannot see it otherwise. Good enough for me. Hit it all over with a
little more WD (damn can spout works when it wants and can is at least
still 65% full) and tomorrow I will wax it.
Thanks for all the tips. I think I will still look into some of the
suggested alternatives for other projects. I enjoy finding the occasional
old tool and cleaning it up. I keep hoping to find a good but cheap table
belt sander. Maybe this summer.
I can't remember when I bought this WD can, but it's been years. It's a
large one and works but only at a low angle and clean spray head. Since I
can't find a replacement straw to fit it, I may end up donating it to my
mechanic.
Thanks all...
'Casper
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
>> This is woodworking and OP's talking about the table on a scrollsaw, not
>> >even a TS or a jointer, for heaven's sake.
>
>> He's not going to remove enough material w/ a 200+ grit to get to a
>> clean >surface (ignoring staining, of course, as I already mentioned
>> earlier) to >possibly matter...a fraction of or a mil will be impossible
>> to discern in >functionality (as would several mils in reality on a
>> scrollsaw). Getting a >jointer table severely out of whack is a
>> different animal, of course...
>
>> Precision is good but folks tend to get way over-paranoid on tolerances w/
>> >woodworking--heck, the wood itself will move more than you're talking
>>> about >here just from the time you mill it before it's assembled not to
>>> mention >how far it will then go when glue is applied and it soaks up that moisture.
>
> To put things ever further into perspective... many of the machines the
> Shakers used had wooden tables on them... table saws, table saws with
> sliding tables, cut off saws, thickness planers, reciprocating saws,
> shapers (a tongue and groove machine comes to mind), and others would be
> included in the list. It would be fair to say those tools too moved
> around with changes in humidity and it would be difficult to argue that
> their products were negatively impacted by the movement.
>
> John
All true but they were building simple furniture..
On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Casper" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> I have an old can of WD40 that won't hold a straw, so I figured I'd
>> use it on this. Don't care if I use it up.
>>
> Have you seen the new cans of WD40?
>
> I had an Ace Hardware Card recently and needed some WD40. The new WD40
> cans have an attached straw. You put it down, it sprays. You lift it
> up, it shoots out the straw. It is all built in. You don't lose
> anything. I think it is quite clever.
>
> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush. The problem is finding a brush that
> will fit into the small confines of the toilet bowl. I tried it
> recently on 5 separate toilet bowls. I had brushes to remove 3/4 of the
> stains. Looking for a short bristle brush that will fit into the small
> spaces. Then they will all become sparkling clean!
>
>
>
LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at
the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!
On 2/5/2013 4:43 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/5/2013 4:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at
>> the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!
>
> Likewise on the time frame ... the gallon I bought six years ago is
> about 3/4 full.
>
BUT! did your gallon can have the flip up and flip down straw? The
regular sized can that I bought 6 years ago had the flip straw set up. ;~)
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On 2/5/2013 7:21 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Casper" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
> `Casper
> ==========================================================================================================
>
> Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust
> staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If
> you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding
> on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would
> remove the rust and be happy.
Actually Empire Top Saver Sill bring it back to shiney with out anything
more than the ScotchBrite pad that comes with the product.
=========================================================================================================
True, there are chemicals out there that will remove the stain but it seems
that it is often recommended (by some on this group, among others) to sand
it out, something that I would not do. I would not worry about a stain
either as long as the surface is smooth. This comes from a career in a
machine shop. Looks are of no concern, accuracy is.
On 2/5/2013 4:39 PM, Leon wrote:
> LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at
> the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!
Likewise on the time frame ... the gallon I bought six years ago is
about 3/4 full.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
>-MIKE- <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
I get an "Exploit Blackhole Exploit Kit [type 2364] using this link.
>Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
>burning distractions.
Yeah, and hard on my bad elbow. I did it this way when I first got it
(used) and cleaned the surface till shiney and waxed it. Now I feel
dumb for letting it get away from me.
>Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
>techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
I've used Evaporust with great success but that needs to soak and I'm
not sure I can do that without taking the table apart, which I'd
rather not do. I haven't tried Rustfree ... yet.
"dpb" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>This is woodworking and OP's talking about the table on a scrollsaw, not
>even a TS or a jointer, for heaven's sake.
>He's not going to remove enough material w/ a 200+ grit to get to a clean
>surface (ignoring staining, of course, as I already mentioned earlier) to
>possibly matter...a fraction of or a mil will be impossible to discern in
>functionality (as would several mils in reality on a scrollsaw). Getting a
>jointer table severely out of whack is a different animal, of course...
>Precision is good but folks tend to get way over-paranoid on tolerances w/
>woodworking--heck, the wood itself will move more than you're talking about
>here just from the time you mill it before it's assembled not to mention
>how far it will then go when glue is applied and it soaks up that moisture.
To put things ever further into perspective... many of the machines the
Shakers used had wooden tables on them... table saws, table saws with
sliding tables, cut off saws, thickness planers, reciprocating saws, shapers
(a tongue and groove machine comes to mind), and others would be included in
the list. It would be fair to say those tools too moved around with changes
in humidity and it would be difficult to argue that their products were
negatively impacted by the movement.
John
"scritch" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>On 2/5/2013 5:21 PM, CW wrote:
>> ==========================================================================================================
>>
>> Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust
>> staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If
> >you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding
> >on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would
>> remove the rust and be happy.
>In fact, it's that black oxidation/staining that eventually gives old iron
>tools that beautiful patina.
Which suggests that maybe the solution to the cosmetic problem is to use
something like Birchwood Casey gun browning solution... intentionally brown
the surface and let regular use burnish the areas that actually get used.
;~)
http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Finishing/FinishingDetails.aspx?ProductID=c13fa667-ed45-4e20-ba31-b39c418ed211
>I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it still in
>the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the junk for is the
>same kind of project you were working on. Lots of other alternatives, so I
>won't be replacing that can.
I don't use WD40 much, ergo why my can is so old. I use Ballistol...
http://www.ballistol.com/ which I find to be a better lubricant, rust
protectant and bio safe. Sadly it is getting harder to find. I use it
on everything except where I need to remove rust.
>As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million other
>spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>Mike Marlow
I have tons of straws around here and not a one will fit this can.
I've been through this same conversation with several people, all
believing they had a straw to fit, and found out none do. Don't know
what the company did with this can, but it sucks.
On Thu, 07 Feb 2013 09:23:56 -0500, Larry Kraus <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On 07 Feb 2013 04:40:52 GMT, Puckdropper
>><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>
>>>> I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it
>>>> still in the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the
>>>> junk for is the same kind of project you were working on. Lots of
>>>> other alternatives, so I won't be replacing that can.
>>>>
>>>> As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million
>>>> other spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon
>>>tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you
>>>don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.
>>
>>Har! I doubt that anyone here has ever thrown away a full
>>depressurized can of anything. We're an inventive lot and would have
>>found several ways to save and use the contents.
>>
>>Does anyone here NOT have a church key? (I didn't think not. ;)
>
>I hold a rubber tipped blow gun on my air line pressed into the nozzle
>of the upside down can. Press down(up) the nozzle while releasing air
>through the blow gun to re pressurize the can. I do not know if my
>usual 100psi line pressure might blow up the can, so I only give it a
>quick blast or two. If it's not enough I can always add more later.
Hmm, that might unsludge a gucked up pickup tube, too, wouldn't it?
I'll have to try that some time.
--
Newman's First Law:
It is useless to put on your brakes when you're upside down.
--Paul Newman
800-311-3374
"Casper" wrote:
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top
> of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the
> holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my
> scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40
> down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust
> has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a
> good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
------------------------------------------------------
Talk to Kano Labs in Nashville, TN.
1-800-311-3374.
They have several products that deal with rust.
Kroil is a winner for freeing up rusted parts that are frozen
together.
Lew
"Casper" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> I have an old can of WD40 that won't hold a straw, so I figured I'd
> use it on this. Don't care if I use it up.
>
Have you seen the new cans of WD40?
I had an Ace Hardware Card recently and needed some WD40. The new WD40 cans
have an attached straw. You put it down, it sprays. You lift it up, it
shoots out the straw. It is all built in. You don't lose anything. I
think it is quite clever.
By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your toilet,
put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then scrub with a
stiff, nylon brush. The problem is finding a brush that will fit into the
small confines of the toilet bowl. I tried it recently on 5 separate toilet
bowls. I had brushes to remove 3/4 of the stains. Looking for a short
bristle brush that will fit into the small spaces. Then they will all
become sparkling clean!
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/5/2013 4:46 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
>>> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
>>> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush.
>>
>> Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.
>>
>
>
> Not to mention the pleasant aroma that lingers in the house.
>
> Great for removing smashed bugs from the exterior of your car.
I use it to remove tractor grease from my hands. The soap won't touch
it, but the WD40 gets it off and then the soap gets the WD40.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
-MIKE- wrote:
>> I didn't read anything abut pitting.
--------------------------------------------
"Doug Miller" wrote:
> If green wood has been sitting on an iron or steel table for one to
> two months, that table's
> pitted.
--------------------------------------
Yep.
In which case, shoot WD-40 to float the sworf away when you
sand out the top with a ROS starting with 150 grit.
Finish by wiping with WD-40 and paper towels.
Finally, apply one of the top finishes such as BoeShield.
Yes you will have some pit marks showing, but they will strictly
be cosmetic and have no effect on function.
And alternate would be one of the phosphoric acid based
cleaners which require a neutralizer wash of water base.
You end up with a black surface where rust once was.
No biggie unless vanity is an issue.
Lew
"Puckdropper" wrote:
>
> I use it to remove tractor grease from my hands. The soap won't
> touch
> it, but the WD40 gets it off and then the soap gets the WD40.
-----------------------------------
Next time try Go-Jo.
Been using it for probably 50-60 years.
It's been so long I forgot when I first used it.
They started in Akron, OH, don't know if they are still there.
Auto parts stores like Pep Boys have it.
Lew
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it
> still in the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the
> junk for is the same kind of project you were working on. Lots of
> other alternatives, so I won't be replacing that can.
>
> As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million
> other spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>
Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon
tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you
don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
>> from Rockler tear when you look at them.
>
> The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are
> pretty durable, really.
Thanks for the heads up ... running low and need to resupply soon. My
favorites, until they quit carrying them, were Members Mark, Sam's Club
brand. I don't know if I just go a bad lot from Rockler, or whether they're
just shoddy ... they also stick together badly in the box.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On 2/5/2013 7:21 PM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Casper" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
> `Casper
> ==========================================================================================================
>
> Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust
> staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If
> you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding
> on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would
> remove the rust and be happy.
Actually Empire Top Saver Sill bring it back to shiney with out anything
more than the ScotchBrite pad that comes with the product.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2/5/13 9:15 AM, Casper wrote:
>> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
>> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>>
>> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
>> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
>> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>>
>> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
>> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
>> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
>> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
>> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
>> `Casper
>>
>
> http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
>
> Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
> burning distractions.
> Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
> techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
>
If there is pitting, that is permanent.
To clean up next to like new and to further protect I find that his product
does a very good job.
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5305-Top-Saver-Kit/dp/B0000TG4CY
On 2/5/2013 9:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
>>> from Rockler tear when you look at them.
>>
>> The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are
>> pretty durable, really.
>
> Thanks for the heads up ... running low and need to resupply soon. My
> favorites, until they quit carrying them, were Members Mark, Sam's Club
> brand. I don't know if I just go a bad lot from Rockler, or whether they're
> just shoddy ... they also stick together badly in the box.
>
There are a few different weight gloves at harbor freight. Pick the MIL
that fits your need.
--
Jeff
On 2/5/2013 4:47 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/5/2013 4:43 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/5/2013 4:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at
>>> the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!
>>
>> Likewise on the time frame ... the gallon I bought six years ago is
>> about 3/4 full.
>>
>
>
> BUT! did your gallon can have the flip up and flip down straw? The
> regular sized can that I bought 6 years ago had the flip straw set up. ;~)
I don't use WD40 often. But when I do, I pour it. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush.
Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Casper" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
`Casper
==========================================================================================================
Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust staining
is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If you want to
get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding on your table
and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would remove the rust and be
happy.
On 2/5/2013 10:15 AM, Casper wrote:
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
> `Casper
>
Sand it . works from 220 dry paper on up to 600 wet /dry, with mineral
spirits.
--
Jeff
On 2/5/2013 4:47 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/5/2013 4:43 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 2/5/2013 4:39 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> LOL My NEW can of WD 40 is about 6 years old. I did not need any at
>>> the time but the NEW delivery set up was cool!
>>
>> Likewise on the time frame ... the gallon I bought six years ago is
>> about 3/4 full.
>>
>
>
> BUT! did your gallon can have the flip up and flip down straw? The
> regular sized can that I bought 6 years ago had the flip straw set up. ;~)
LOL, OK I'll do one even better. Way back in the very early 80's,
probably 1980 I bought a case of 16 oz cans of WD40 for $1 per can from
one of my vendors. Hell I probably saved $6. I was about 25 and WD40
was still the miracle fixer upper product much like duck tape is today.
I was still living in an apartment at the time so the case went to
dad's house. When we cleaned out his house to sell it early last year I
think there were 3 cans left in the case.
On 2/5/2013 4:46 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
>> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
>> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush.
>
> Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.
>
Not to mention the pleasant aroma that lingers in the house.
Great for removing smashed bugs from the exterior of your car.
On Wed, 06 Feb 2013 09:39:08 -0600, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I think the HD gloves work better for me when putting them on. They don't
>> tear so easily..
>
>Where do you get yours?
I've had good luck with Woodcraft's Radnor brand.
Mike M
"CW" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>=========================================================================================================
>True, there are chemicals out there that will remove the stain but it seems
>that it is often recommended (by some on this group, among others) to sand
>it out, something that I would not do. I would not worry about a stain
>either as long as the surface is smooth. This comes from a career in a
>machine shop. Looks are of no concern, accuracy is.
Yeah... not terribly different from when people sand out defects on things
like table tops without sanding the entire surface to the same plane.
Considering how relatively soft cast iron is it's not hard to "unflatten" it
by focusing on just the stained area. I saw an example of that in the recent
past... the guy cleaned up the surface of an old 4" jointer with a belt
sander!
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I didn't read anything abut pitting.
I did -- but I had to "read between the lines" to see it:
"In December ... I laid it ... on top of my scrollsaw ... I picked it up last night...."
If green wood has been sitting on an iron or steel table for one to two months, that table's
pitted.
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in news:51118fc0$0$31896$c3e8da3
[email protected]:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 2/5/2013 4:46 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>>> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
>>>> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
>>>> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush.
>>>
>>> Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Not to mention the pleasant aroma that lingers in the house.
>>
>> Great for removing smashed bugs from the exterior of your car.
>
> I use it to remove tractor grease from my hands. The soap won't touch
> it, but the WD40 gets it off and then the soap gets the WD40.
Try Fast Orange next time. Rub it in without water, until the grease is thoroughly loosened
up, then wash it off.
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
> from Rockler tear when you look at them.
The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are pretty durable, really.
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/5/2013 9:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>>> Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
>>>> from Rockler tear when you look at them.
>>>
>>> The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are
>>> pretty durable, really.
>>
>> Thanks for the heads up ... running low and need to resupply soon. My
>> favorites, until they quit carrying them, were Members Mark, Sam's Club
>> brand. I don't know if I just go a bad lot from Rockler, or whether they're
>> just shoddy ... they also stick together badly in the box.
>>
> There are a few different weight gloves at harbor freight. Pick the MIL
> that fits your need.
I've just been using the cheap ones, not the heavy-duty gloves -- haven't seen the need for
it.
>This is woodworking and OP's talking about the table on a scrollsaw, not
>even a TS or a jointer, for heaven's sake.
True.
>He's not going to remove enough material w/ a 200+ grit to get to a
>clean surface (ignoring staining, of course, as I already mentioned
>earlier) to possibly matter...a fraction of or a mil will be impossible
>to discern in functionality (as would several mils in reality on a
>scrollsaw). Getting a jointer table severely out of whack is a
>different animal, of course...
I barely took off anything and when the rusted area was almost down to
the level of the rest of the surface, I sanded the entire surface. I
got this unit second hand but it's in great, almost new, shape. I
doubt the miniscule amount of metal I sanded off will ever make a
difference. Now I just have to remember never to oops again.
>Precision is good but folks tend to get way over-paranoid on tolerances
>w/ woodworking--heck, the wood itself will move more than you're talking
>about here just from the time you mill it before it's assembled not to
>mention how far it will then go when glue is applied and it soaks up
>that moisture.
>dpb
I get a lot of this from some people. I wanted to make a custom rest
for my lathe for some special projects and was telling my neighbor
about it. He kept insisting I would have to have it made in a machine
shop due to tight tolerances. I tried to explain to him this is a wood
lathe and not a metal lathe but he refused to get the idea until the
rest was made and he saw how it worked. He never said another word
about tolerances after.
On 07 Feb 2013 04:40:52 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>
>> I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it
>> still in the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the
>> junk for is the same kind of project you were working on. Lots of
>> other alternatives, so I won't be replacing that can.
>>
>> As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million
>> other spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>>
>
>Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon
>tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you
>don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.
Har! I doubt that anyone here has ever thrown away a full
depressurized can of anything. We're an inventive lot and would have
found several ways to save and use the contents.
Does anyone here NOT have a church key? (I didn't think not. ;)
--
Newman's First Law:
It is useless to put on your brakes when you're upside down.
--Paul Newman
On 2/5/13 9:15 AM, Casper wrote:
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
> `Casper
>
http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
burning distractions.
Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/5/13 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 2/5/13 9:15 AM, Casper wrote:
>>> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
>>> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>>>
>>> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
>>> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
>>> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>>>
>>> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
>>> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
>>> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
>>> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
>>> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
>>> `Casper
>>>
>>
>> http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
>>
>> Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
>> burning distractions.
>> Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
>> techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
>>
>
>
> If there is pitting, that is permanent.
>
> To clean up next to like new and to further protect I find that his product
> does a very good job.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5305-Top-Saver-Kit/dp/B0000TG4CY
>
I didn't read anything abut pitting.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/5/2013 9:15 AM, Casper wrote:
> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
Just polish it out--I use 400 wet/dry paper w/ any lubricant--even water
is fine for the lubricant...just dry afterwards. Unless the can isn't
handy my general first choice is K-1 followed by WD40 since there's
almost always some around, but it really matters very little for such
superficial rust.
Once back to clean surface then one of the surface protectant products
is ok altho probably not really needed unless your shop is so damp that
you're getting spontaneous rust besides for some reason as the above...
It's very dry here so I don't worry about anything more than a coat of
old Johnson's paste wax once in a while to keep things "slicked up".
The old barn isn't terribly tight so occasionally after a driving wind
and snow/rain there's some water so it's a pretty routine operation. If
I were anal about pristine appearances (a few stains make no difference
whatever as to performance; if anything they're "character" :) ) I'd
cover stuff. If I know there's a bad'un coming and think of it I do try
to cover them but don't always get one of those round tuits ahead of
time w/ all the other stuff that generally needs doing on a farm before...
So, in a long-winded sorta' way I'm trying to say the world has not gone
a-kilter just for a little surface rusting on a tool table... :)
--
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
> woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 2/5/2013 9:41 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>> news:[email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
>>>>> from Rockler tear when you look at them.
>>>>
>>>> The nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight (made in Malaysia, usually) are
>>>> pretty durable, really.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the heads up ... running low and need to resupply soon. My
>>> favorites, until they quit carrying them, were Members Mark, Sam's Club
>>> brand. I don't know if I just go a bad lot from Rockler, or whether they're
>>> just shoddy ... they also stick together badly in the box.
>>>
>> There are a few different weight gloves at harbor freight. Pick the MIL
>> that fits your need.
>
> I've just been using the cheap ones, not the heavy-duty gloves -- haven't
> seen the need for
> it.
I think the HD gloves work better for me when putting them on. They don't
tear so easily..
On 2/5/13 3:16 PM, Casper wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>> http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/rustfree/
>
> I get an "Exploit Blackhole Exploit Kit [type 2364] using this link.
>
>> Using WD-40 and steel wool or any other old-school techniques are time
>> burning distractions.
>
> Yeah, and hard on my bad elbow. I did it this way when I first got it
> (used) and cleaned the surface till shiney and waxed it. Now I feel
> dumb for letting it get away from me.
>
>> Rustfree is fast and easy. I've tried all the different products and
>> techniques and this is by far the most efficient.
>
> I've used Evaporust with great success but that needs to soak and I'm
> not sure I can do that without taking the table apart, which I'd
> rather not do. I haven't tried Rustfree ... yet.
>
It's pretty effortless. Whatever phosphoric acid does to rust, it's fast.
You will want to clean up the rustfree with soap and water, however....
and that means you will also want to follow up with a protectant.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/5/13 5:25 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>
>>> I didn't read anything abut pitting.
> --------------------------------------------
> "Doug Miller" wrote:
>
>> If green wood has been sitting on an iron or steel table for one to
>> two months, that table's
>> pitted.
> --------------------------------------
> Yep.
>
> In which case, shoot WD-40 to float the sworf away when you
> sand out the top with a ROS starting with 150 grit.
>
> Finish by wiping with WD-40 and paper towels.
>
> Finally, apply one of the top finishes such as BoeShield.
>
> Yes you will have some pit marks showing, but they will strictly
> be cosmetic and have no effect on function.
>
> And alternate would be one of the phosphoric acid based
> cleaners which require a neutralizer wash of water base.
>
> You end up with a black surface where rust once was.
> No biggie unless vanity is an issue.
>
> Lew
>
I never get a black surface from Rustfree, which is phosphoric acid based.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/6/2013 12:03 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> On 2/5/2013 7:21 PM, CW wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Casper" wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
>> be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>>
>> In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
>> down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
>> my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>>
>> I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
>> I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
>> on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
>> come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
>> way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
>> `Casper
>> ==========================================================================================================
>>
>>
>> Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust
>> staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If
>> you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding
>> on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would
>> remove the rust and be happy.
>
>
> Actually Empire Top Saver Sill bring it back to shiney with out anything
> more than the ScotchBrite pad that comes with the product.
> =========================================================================================================
>
> True, there are chemicals out there that will remove the stain but it
> seems that it is often recommended (by some on this group, among others)
> to sand it out, something that I would not do. I would not worry about a
> stain either as long as the surface is smooth. This comes from a career
> in a machine shop. Looks are of no concern, accuracy is.
This is woodworking and OP's talking about the table on a scrollsaw, not
even a TS or a jointer, for heaven's sake.
He's not going to remove enough material w/ a 200+ grit to get to a
clean surface (ignoring staining, of course, as I already mentioned
earlier) to possibly matter...a fraction of or a mil will be impossible
to discern in functionality (as would several mils in reality on a
scrollsaw). Getting a jointer table severely out of whack is a
different animal, of course...
Precision is good but folks tend to get way over-paranoid on tolerances
w/ woodworking--heck, the wood itself will move more than you're talking
about here just from the time you mill it before it's assembled not to
mention how far it will then go when glue is applied and it soaks up
that moisture.
--
On 2/5/2013 5:21 PM, CW wrote:
> ==========================================================================================================
>
> Rust is red. WD-40 and steel wool will remove that in seconds. Rust
> staining is black. It is totally harmless and is no more than color. If
> you want to get back to shiny, an abrasive is called for. Start sanding
> on your table and hope that you don't sand it out of flat. I would
> remove the rust and be happy.
In fact, it's that black oxidation/staining that eventually gives old
iron tools that beautiful patina.
[email protected] wrote:
>
> I can't remember when I bought this WD can, but it's been years. It's
> a large one and works but only at a low angle and clean spray head.
> Since I can't find a replacement straw to fit it, I may end up
> donating it to my mechanic.
>
I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it still in
the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the junk for is the
same kind of project you were working on. Lots of other alternatives, so I
won't be replacing that can.
As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million other
spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Puckdropper wrote:
>
> Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the
> gallon tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray
> can, but you don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is
> gone.
>
I just use PB Blaster - much more useful than WD-40. I buy it by the
gallon, and put it in a sprayer.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Har! I doubt that anyone here has ever thrown away a full
> depressurized can of anything. We're an inventive lot and would have
> found several ways to save and use the contents.
>
> Does anyone here NOT have a church key? (I didn't think not. ;)
Not a full can, but I just threw away a can that had about 30% of its
contents left, yesterday. WD-40 isn't worth the effort of opening the can
with a church key, just to get at what is left in the can.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Casper wrote:
>
> I have tons of straws around here and not a one will fit this can.
> I've been through this same conversation with several people, all
> believing they had a straw to fit, and found out none do. Don't know
> what the company did with this can, but it sucks.
Weird - I move my straws between a number of cans of different products and
don't have any problems.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>
>> I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it
>> still in the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the
>> junk for is the same kind of project you were working on. Lots of
>> other alternatives, so I won't be replacing that can.
>>
>> As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million
>> other spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>>
>
>Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon
>tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you
>don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.
>
If there's any significant quantify of product left but no propellant,
take a small punch or nail and poke a hole in the can near the bottom,
then pour the product into a pump sprayer or oil can.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Casper <[email protected]> writes:
>So I made a mistake. Now I have to clean it up and it's not going to
>be easy so I am looking for suggestions...
>
>In December I got and pin oak burl from a local tree service cutting
>down a nearby tree. I brought it inside and laid it on a rag on top of
>my DeWalt scrollsaw, checking it about once a week until the holidays.
>
>I picked it up last night and found a huge rust spot on my scrollsaw.
>I immediately removed the burl, which is fine, and put some WD40 down
>on the saw. So far I've treid just WD40 and a scrub pad. Some rust has
>come off but most has not, even soaking overnight. Anyone have a good
>way of removing the rust and not damaging the surface?
>`Casper
Use a sanding block with 220 aluminum oxide paper, lube with light oil,
plenty of elbow grease.
>dpb <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>Just polish it out--I use 400 wet/dry paper w/ any lubricant--even water
>is fine for the lubricant...just dry afterwards. Unless the can isn't
>handy my general first choice is K-1 followed by WD40 since there's
>almost always some around, but it really matters very little for such
>superficial rust.
I have an old can of WD40 that won't hold a straw, so I figured I'd
use it on this. Don't care if I use it up.
>Once back to clean surface then one of the surface protectant products
>is ok altho probably not really needed unless your shop is so damp that
>you're getting spontaneous rust besides for some reason as the above...
Dry in winter here, damp in summer, but it's in the house, so climate
controlled.
>It's very dry here so I don't worry about anything more than a coat of
>old Johnson's paste wax once in a while to keep things "slicked up".
>The old barn isn't terribly tight so occasionally after a driving wind
>and snow/rain there's some water so it's a pretty routine operation. If
>I were anal about pristine appearances (a few stains make no difference
>whatever as to performance; if anything they're "character" :) ) I'd
>cover stuff. If I know there's a bad'un coming and think of it I do try
>to cover them but don't always get one of those round tuits ahead of
>time w/ all the other stuff that generally needs doing on a farm before...
Last time I used renaissance wax and it works great, on everything
I've used it, including cleaning up a few swords for a friend who
forgot they were metal and, well, you know.
>So, in a long-winded sorta' way I'm trying to say the world has not gone
>a-kilter just for a little surface rusting on a tool table... :)
Sadly, it's more than a little and I need the surface to be smooth to
cut larger pieces w/o dragging or getting caught.
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
> I think the HD gloves work better for me when putting them on. They don't
> tear so easily..
Where do you get yours?
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On 2/6/2013 9:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I think the HD gloves work better for me when putting them on. They don't
>> tear so easily..
>
> Where do you get yours?
>
Originally from Lee Valley. I don't recall if I cared for them or not.
Then I bought a new set on your recommendation from Sam's Club. IIRC
I have torn both brands.
Typically I tear them when pulling them on for the first time. If they
last past that I can reuse them.
Now an off note. I have on occasion scrubbed through the finger of both
brands while applying and or removing gel stains.
Yesterday I applied an old 25+ year old oil stain to an old desk top.
Way back when, I took a stain class at a bare wood furniture store.
They recommended and I again used a chunk of "pantyhose" for applying
the stain.
The panty hose holds but readily releases the stain from the wad.
Basically most all of it comes out, not as much waste and easy to apply.
And it does not absorb the pigment like towels or t-shirts will.
Basically it was effortless applying the oil stain. I wiped off the
still wet excess half way through with a blue Scotts shop towel and with
a new Scotts shop towel wiped the area again. Great results.
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 07 Feb 2013 04:40:52 GMT, Puckdropper
><puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
>>"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
>>news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>>> I just threw away a can of the junk today, with probably 30% of it
>>> still in the can because it quit spraying. The only thing I use the
>>> junk for is the same kind of project you were working on. Lots of
>>> other alternatives, so I won't be replacing that can.
>>>
>>> As for the straws - they are the same size as straws for a million
>>> other spray products. Just grab a straw from something else.
>>>
>>
>>Forget the spray cans. If you're going to use WD40, buy it in the gallon
>>tin and use a sprayer. Sure, it's not as direct as the spray can, but you
>>don't wind up wasting what's left when the propellant is gone.
>
>Har! I doubt that anyone here has ever thrown away a full
>depressurized can of anything. We're an inventive lot and would have
>found several ways to save and use the contents.
>
>Does anyone here NOT have a church key? (I didn't think not. ;)
I hold a rubber tipped blow gun on my air line pressed into the nozzle
of the upside down can. Press down(up) the nozzle while releasing air
through the blow gun to re pressurize the can. I do not know if my
usual 100psi line pressure might blow up the can, so I only give it a
quick blast or two. If it's not enough I can always add more later.
On 2/5/2013 5:03 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> On 2/5/2013 4:46 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 2/5/2013 4:02 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>>> By the way, another use for WD40. If you get mineral stains in your
>>>> toilet, put some WD40 in the water and let it soak for awhile. Then
>>>> scrub with a stiff, nylon brush.
>>>
>>> Also great for cleaning stainless steel appliances.
>> Not to mention the pleasant aroma that lingers in the house.
>>
>> Great for removing smashed bugs from the exterior of your car.
>
> I use it to remove tractor grease from my hands. The soap won't touch
> it, but the WD40 gets it off and then the soap gets the WD40.
Also remove stains from your fingers when the POS chinese nitrile gloves
from Rockler tear when you look at them.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)