On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 08:55:20 -0400, the infamous Phisherman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 22:46:46 -0500, "Leon"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>>I just finished up a table top with several coats of Waterlox, but
>>> it's still a little rough - probably from all the dust in the air.
>>> What can I use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a
>>> little more satiny and a little less shiny? Thanks.
>>
>>Finishing wax embedded into 0000 Steel Wool. Basically use the wool to
>>apply the wax to the wood.
>
>That's exactly what I do. Best to wait a few weeks to allow the
>finish to harden more. I use Johnsons Wax in the yellow can.
Amen, bruddahs! Waterlox rocks.
--
The only reason I would take up exercising is
so that I could hear heavy breathing again.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I just finished up a table top with several coats of Waterlox, but
>> it's still a little rough - probably from all the dust in the air.
>> What can I use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a
>> little more satiny and a little less shiny? Thanks.
>>
>> JP
>
>
> Finishing wax embedded into 0000 Steel Wool. Basically use the wool to
> apply the wax to the wood.
Leon is spot-on
That is preciscely what I have done amy times to finish off waterlox
original on Cherry.
Denib and reduce sheen in one step. Your piece will feel wonderfully
touchable when you're done.
-Steve
Despite the "rub on, wipe almost dry" repeated application of my
favorite: Homer Formby's modified tung oil," there were times when
I'd get some rough areas. Usually it was grain that had kicked up
or dust that settled into a particular area where I might not have
wiped it down as well as I could.
In either case, I preferred to first flatten the area with 1000
grit wet/dry paper and water, using a wood block backing for
rigidity. The stuff cuts a finish fast, so it takes a light hand.
However, the resulting dull area can be recoated with the Homer
Formby's to get a bit more gloss, then the entire piece rubbed out
with the 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax.
The steel wool conforms to the finish's topography and doesn't
flatten it out as easily or as well as the light sanding. OTOH,
the conforming nature of the steel wool lends itself to a more
uniform overall finish after things are flattened some, since
it'll reach down into the lower areas where the sanding block only
hits the high points.
--
Nonny
Live a good and honorable life.
Then when you get older and
think back, you'll enjoy it
a second time.
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 18:41:34 -0700, Jay Pique wrote:
> I just finished up a table top with several coats of Waterlox, but it's
> still a little rough - probably from all the dust in the air. What can I
> use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a little more
> satiny and a little less shiny? Thanks.
>
> JP
I've used 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Try it on a test piece
first.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just finished up a table top with several coats of Waterlox, but
> it's still a little rough - probably from all the dust in the air.
> What can I use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a
> little more satiny and a little less shiny? Thanks.
>
> JP
Finishing wax embedded into 0000 Steel Wool. Basically use the wool to
apply the wax to the wood.
Your choice depends on the size and number of nits you need to rub
out, and the final appearance you are looking for.
I find that wet/dry sandpaper with a lubricant of mineral spirits (oil
based finishes), or water with a drop of detergent (water based
finishes) cuts faster than steel wool plus wax. Also you can adjust
the aggressiveness and shininess by varying the grit from 600-2000.
You'll need to get the higher grits from an auto parts store.
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 18:41:34 -0700 (PDT), Jay Pique
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What can I use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a
>little more satiny and a little less shiny?
In applications where you might not want to use steel wool, the finer
(white/grey) 3M abrasive pads also work quite well to apply the paste
wax, smooth out the finish, and reduce the sheen. Several articles on
the web discuss the overall technique. Some samples,
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/articles/192_MOW_Skill_Builder.htm
http://www.rockler.com/articles/display_article.cfm?story_id=152
http://www.djmarks.com/stories/djm/Rubbing_Out_The_Finish_98160.asp
http://www.stpetewoodguild.com/Finishingclassnotes.pdf
http://www.michaeldresdner.com/?p=50
etc.
(DAGS Rubbing Out Finish)
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Amen, bruddahs! Waterlox rocks.
You know, in the drumming newsgroup that -MIKE- and I follow, there is a
long standing joke about where to find a low-cost source of "Moongel", a
gooey substance that makes an excellent head-dampening material, but
carries such ridiculously high price that nobody wants to pay for it.
I've wanted to try Waterlox for years, but every time I go to procure
some I find myself refusing to pay the outrageous price they ask for the
stuff So...
Does anybody know of a low-cost source for Waterlox?
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Steve Turner wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Amen, bruddahs! Waterlox rocks.
>
> You know, in the drumming newsgroup that -MIKE- and I follow, there is a
> long standing joke about where to find a low-cost source of "Moongel", a
> gooey substance that makes an excellent head-dampening material, but
> carries such ridiculously high price that nobody wants to pay for it.
> I've wanted to try Waterlox for years, but every time I go to procure
> some I find myself refusing to pay the outrageous price they ask for the
> stuff So...
>
> Does anybody know of a low-cost source for Waterlox?
>
Why?
Why did I click on this post when I wasn't even following the thread?
:-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 13:23:06 -0500, the infamous Steve Turner
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>> Does anybody know of a low-cost source for Waterlox?
>
> My best source, an old Wreck follower, Russ Ramirez of
> www.WoodFinishingSupplies.com, now defunct. He bootlegged it into
> California for me. It was illegal there at the time, prolly still is.
I bought some shellacky from him; sorry to see he's out of bidness.
> Holy Shit, Maynard! Prices have skyrocketed since I bought my gallon
> of Original/Satin Waterlox. It's now $30 a quart, but a quart will
> finish a helluva lot of wood, believe me. I think my gallon was $41.
No kiddin' Vern! I'd wrestle a muddy pig to get a gallon of that stuff for $41.
Woodcrappers wants around a hunnerd bucks for it, but I think you're right; a quart would
probably last me a long time. Still, THIRTY BUCKS A QUART? Holy Schnikes...
> Just keep the air off it's surface in the can or it'll skin and gel on
> your in a heartbeat.
Rodger.
> Woodcraft and Highland Hardware $27, Killian Hardware $26, but regular
> varnish is now $15 a pint, so it's not so different, eh? Any decent
> oil finish is skyrocketing because of the bloody ecoterrorists who
> scream "VOCs Kill!"
Bastages!
--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 13:23:06 -0500, the infamous Steve Turner
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Amen, bruddahs! Waterlox rocks.
>
>You know, in the drumming newsgroup that -MIKE- and I follow, there is a
>long standing joke about where to find a low-cost source of "Moongel", a
>gooey substance that makes an excellent head-dampening material, but
>carries such ridiculously high price that nobody wants to pay for it.
>I've wanted to try Waterlox for years, but every time I go to procure
>some I find myself refusing to pay the outrageous price they ask for the
>stuff So...
>
>Does anybody know of a low-cost source for Waterlox?
My best source, an old Wreck follower, Russ Ramirez of
www.WoodFinishingSupplies.com, now defunct. He bootlegged it into
California for me. It was illegal there at the time, prolly still is.
Holy Shit, Maynard! Prices have skyrocketed since I bought my gallon
of Original/Satin Waterlox. It's now $30 a quart, but a quart will
finish a helluva lot of wood, believe me. I think my gallon was $41.
Just keep the air off it's surface in the can or it'll skin and gel on
your in a heartbeat.
Woodcraft and Highland Hardware $27, Killian Hardware $26, but regular
varnish is now $15 a pint, so it's not so different, eh? Any decent
oil finish is skyrocketing because of the bloody ecoterrorists who
scream "VOCs Kill!"
--
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free
than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
---
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 22:46:46 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I just finished up a table top with several coats of Waterlox, but
>> it's still a little rough - probably from all the dust in the air.
>> What can I use to rub down the top to get it smooth and maybe get it a
>> little more satiny and a little less shiny? Thanks.
>>
>> JP
>
>
>Finishing wax embedded into 0000 Steel Wool. Basically use the wool to
>apply the wax to the wood.
>
That's exactly what I do. Best to wait a few weeks to allow the
finish to harden more. I use Johnsons Wax in the yellow can.