I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
provide some information/advice on this topic?
Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
"D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Doesen't using 3/4" material for a front on top of 1/2" invade on the
space
> of the drawer?
No, because 98% of the cabinets that I build have the door outside the face
frame. The drawers fronts are also outside the face frames. The 1/2" thick
drawer box front does not go past the back side of hte 3/4" thick face
frame.
>Keep in mind that I have never built a full set of
> cupboards, only drawers for furniture but it would seem that using a TS to
> do a locking rabbit joint would eliminate the need for the 1/2 in the
front
> by doing it with the 3/4 material.
That is correct. However this is much slower to do and if you are doing
this for a living it cuts into the profit so to speak. Don't get me wrong
here though. If my drawer ever comes apart I fix it no questions asked. I
did my kitchen this way in 1990 and the drawers hare holding up just fine.
Occassionally I use my kitchen to show a client and they want their drawers
done this way also. Most factory prefab cabinets that most builders use
these days simply do not hold up. Aslo, and this does happen, if the
customer decides to change the style of the kitchen doors and drawers, I do
no have to charge for rebuilding the drawers again.
>I've seen that you can even do it with
> the front rabbited for an overlap look but must admit that I've never been
> able to master that - I reach for the DT jig.
Are you talking about inset Dove Tails, Dove Tails that are not flush with
the drawer front?
I can post a pic of a night end table with that joint if you like.
In article <[email protected]>, Leon
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back. I
> attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw.
Sorry for sounding dense, but I'm having trouble visualising where you
would use those screws. Do you mean just the screws or actual pocket
holes? In either case, where do they go?
Gerry
Doesen't using 3/4" material for a front on top of 1/2" invade on the space
of the drawer? Keep in mind that I have never built a full set of
cupboards, only drawers for furniture but it would seem that using a TS to
do a locking rabbit joint would eliminate the need for the 1/2 in the front
by doing it with the 3/4 material. I've seen that you can even do it with
the front rabbited for an overlap look but must admit that I've never been
able to master that - I reach for the DT jig.
Don
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > Leon --
> >
> > Whoops -- maybe I was not clear enough in my question (at least based on
> my
> > understanding of your reply). I meant to ask about using a TS for the
> > drawer joint (as shown at the link I gave), versus using a special
router
> > bit. That being said, if you're cutting rabbets with a router, I s'pose
> > you wouldn't use a TS for a drawer/lock joint.
>
> No, I don't use a TS to cut rabbets for drawers. BUT back to your
question
> of which I would use to make that lock miter joint, I would probably use
the
> router table vs. the TS. It would probably be 6 of one and a half dozen
of
> the other if considering set up time or ease of operation when considering
> which tool to use. I think ultimately the lock miter router bit would
> produce a smoother cut for this operation.
>
> > BTW, what size & type stock do you typically use on your built-ins
> > (kitchens cabs?) for the drawer (to which you then apply the front)?
> > Thanks. -- Igor
>
> I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back. I
> attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw. I
> also try to use Accuride bottom center slides to save more space. Using
> this slide along with the 1/2" thick stock produces a clean and space
saving
> drawer. When redoing a kitchen I also make the drawers go to the back of
> the cabinet vs. 3" to 5" shy of the cabinet back. I want the customers to
> get more room for their money.
>
>
Truly an art that keeps escaping me. I have watched the Frank Klaus video
50 times and he makes it look so easy. It almost looks like he's using
Mahogony because it seems so soft. My using oak seemed tantamont to
striking a rock with a hammer - and the resulting cuts showed it. I've
always respected those that can do that by hand. Kudos.
Don
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It takes about an hour every day, and in one or two weeks you'll be a
> pro at handcut dovetails. Spend your money on a good set of chisels,
> a skew chisel, a bevel gauge, and a couple mallets. After some
> practice, you can bang out a drawer by hand with the same time spent
> setting up a jig & router. True, it will take less time with a jog if
> you have a lot of drawers to complete. I've produced several
> beautiful dovetail joints by hand.
>
> On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 14:26:30 GMT, "philly45"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery.
What
> >model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on
the
> >web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> >Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the
Porter
> >Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
> >provide some information/advice on this topic?
> >
> >Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail
joints?
> >One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my
kitchen
> >and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
> >
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> No, because 98% of the cabinets that I build have the door outside the
face
> frame. The drawers fronts are also outside the face frames. The 1/2"
thick
> drawer box front does not go past the back side of hte 3/4" thick face
> frame.
I think I understand what you are saying - the back of the drawer front is
completely flush with the face frame on cabinets - therefore, the real 1/2"
drawer front is flush with front of the cabinets minus the face frame.
>
> That is correct. However this is much slower to do and if you are doing
> this for a living it cuts into the profit so to speak. Don't get me wrong
> here though. If my drawer ever comes apart I fix it no questions asked.
I
> did my kitchen this way in 1990 and the drawers hare holding up just fine.
> Occassionally I use my kitchen to show a client and they want their
drawers
> done this way also. Most factory prefab cabinets that most builders use
> these days simply do not hold up. Aslo, and this does happen, if the
> customer decides to change the style of the kitchen doors and drawers, I
do
> no have to charge for rebuilding the drawers again.
That makes sense - never thought of that. How do you attach the false front
to the 1/2" front so securly to hold up over 15 years?
> >I've seen that you can even do it with
> > the front rabbited for an overlap look but must admit that I've never
been
> > able to master that - I reach for the DT jig.
>
> Are you talking about inset Dove Tails, Dove Tails that are not flush with
> the drawer front?
> I can post a pic of a night end table with that joint if you like.
Yes, that's what I'm talking about - sure, I'd like to see the pic. BTW -
when I see your name on a post, I generally open it because you're a great
resource of info here - thanks for that.
Don
Here's a nice one:
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=DS&cart=97421032829539
:)
Brian.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
> model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
> web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
> Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
> provide some information/advice on this topic?
>
> Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
> One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
> and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
>
>
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
> model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
> web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
> Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
> provide some information/advice on this topic?
>
> Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
> One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
> and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
>
>
I recently bought, then sold, the 16" PC OmniJig. It is very well made, with
a heavy cast aluminum base. The clamps use heavy steel cams that span the
entire width of the jig. However, I sold it because: 1) I immediately wished
I'd spent the extra $50 to get the 24" model, and 2) It requires a different
template for each kind of joint, and the templates are not cheap (It comes
with the half blind dovetail template - I purchased separately the 1/2" box
joint template @ $80. 24" templates are undoubtedly more $). For the cost of
the 24" OmniJig with a couple of templates, I figured I might as well just
get the Leigh.
Jerry
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is your opinion on the functionality of the Porter Cable Omnijig? I
> notice that the 24" model comes with both the half-blind and the through
> dovetail. Did you feel that the 16" model operated well?
>
Yes, after considerable tweaking, it performed very well. But I believe all
jigs of this type require tweaking and test cutting on scraps until you're
satisfied with the results. I should have mentioned that the 16" (and
*probably* the 24" too) also came with the collar and dovetail router bit.
Jerry
The PC is an old style jig with better hold. It's great if you're going to
use it for a joint only, rather than pretty, or a tour-de-force, where it
would be better, to my way of thinking, to do by hand. You do have to cater
to it for the half-pins.
For kitchen drawers, which normally have applied fronts, I'd use a drawer
joint bit. If I was trying to show off, the Leigh. Makes a lot of little
boxes with pretty through dovetails quickly, though, which is why I own one.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
> model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
> web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
> Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
> provide some information/advice on this topic?
>
> Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
> One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
> and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
>
>
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_door.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor
Shows it in use with a rabbeted front, though, as Leon mentions, the easy
way is to apply the front to the box which is the drawer.
I use this one for my shaper, but it's the same bit, really. Got it for $20
when the Green Bay Woodcraft sold out.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00004VWMW/shoppingsavvy-20/104-9112746-9864729
They're self-squaring, provide good glue surface, and mechanical resistance
in the direction of strain. Only thing nicer which is cheap and easy for a
guy with a router table is a box joint with an applied front.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Two questions:
>
> 1. What is an applied front?
> 2. What is a drawer joint bit? Where would I obtain such a router bit,
and
> what brand would you recommend?
>
Try it with some hot glue to tack the front to the drawer. Works a treat.
Clamp a straight edge below and mark your references on the scrap for
centering. Pan head machine screws work well.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
In real life aligning the face and attaching is difficult
> unless you know the trick. Typically you want to attach the drawer front
to
> line up with a cabinet door below it. To do this the drawer must be
closed
> so that you can use a straight edge along side the lower cabinet door to
> align the drawer front from side to side. I place a block of wood behind
> the drawer so that the front of the drawer box remains flush with the face
> frame and not push back farther into cabinet. I put in the 4 screws from
> the inside of the drawer box until the points of the screws just come
> through the front side of the drawer box. I then align the decorative
> drawer front and press it firmly against the drawer box and the 4 screw
> points. This gives me indexing locations so that I know where to mount
the
> decorative drawer front with the drawer open. I open the drawer and
realign
> the decorative drawer front with the screw points and drive the screws all
> the way into the decorative front. I prefer to use self tapping screws
with
> larger washer heads similar to pocket hole screws.
>
I bore the holes in advance, and of course, they're larger than the threads.
That way I can also do them on the DP where they're square to the surface.
Glue's on the edge, where it peels. Though I suppose doublestick would work
between, I've not used it.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Try it with some hot glue to tack the front to the drawer. Works a
treat.
>
> I may try that on the next job. I have often thought of using hot melt
glue
> but always thought that the glue would create a gap between the drawer box
> and the decorative front.
>
> > Clamp a straight edge below and mark your references on the scrap for
> > centering. Pan head machine screws work well.
>
> The reason that I use pocket hole "Style" screws is to insure that the
screw
> threads are no longer in contact with the 1/2" front of the drawer box.
The
> smooth shank on the head end of the screw will let the drawer box snug up
> tight against the decorative drawer front. If the threads are in contact
> with the drawer box there is normally a gap between the two and I end up
> having to unscrew and replace the screw several times.
>
>
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 21:32:16 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>No, I don't use a TS to cut rabbets for drawers. BUT back to your question
>of which I would use to make that lock miter joint, I would probably use the
>router table vs. the TS. It would probably be 6 of one and a half dozen of
>the other if considering set up time or ease of operation when considering
>which tool to use. I think ultimately the lock miter router bit would
>produce a smoother cut for this operation.
>
>> BTW, what size & type stock do you typically use on your built-ins
>> (kitchens cabs?) for the drawer (to which you then apply the front)?
>> Thanks. -- Igor
>
>I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back. I
>attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw. I
>also try to use Accuride bottom center slides to save more space. Using
>this slide along with the 1/2" thick stock produces a clean and space saving
>drawer. When redoing a kitchen I also make the drawers go to the back of
>the cabinet vs. 3" to 5" shy of the cabinet back. I want the customers to
>get more room for their money.
>
Thanks. That is the info I was looking for. Also, as to the stock for the
drawer sides, one reason I asked is that I was wondering if it was worth
making the rabbets with 1/2" ply stock. Obviously, you think it is. Now
that I think about it, I suppose, beyond strength concerns, the rabbets
help keep the front piece of the drawer box vertical and flush with the
sides' front edges. Thanks. -- Igor
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 17:48:33 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>> 2. What is a drawer joint bit? Where would I obtain such a router bit,
>and
>> what brand would you recommend?
>
>The name describes its function. The joint does not lock vertically on a
>drawer joint. The joint adds strength to fight the tendency for the drawer
>front or back to pull away from the sides.
>Almost all bit mkers make this bit. CMT, Whiteside, Amana, Freud make good
>quality bits.
>
>
Any comments on using a router for this joint versus the TS for this joint?
(For anyone's info: As shown at http://www.kennedyhardware.com/plans.html -
scroll down the page.)
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> Leon --
>
> Whoops -- maybe I was not clear enough in my question (at least based on
my
> understanding of your reply). I meant to ask about using a TS for the
> drawer joint (as shown at the link I gave), versus using a special router
> bit. That being said, if you're cutting rabbets with a router, I s'pose
> you wouldn't use a TS for a drawer/lock joint.
No, I don't use a TS to cut rabbets for drawers. BUT back to your question
of which I would use to make that lock miter joint, I would probably use the
router table vs. the TS. It would probably be 6 of one and a half dozen of
the other if considering set up time or ease of operation when considering
which tool to use. I think ultimately the lock miter router bit would
produce a smoother cut for this operation.
> BTW, what size & type stock do you typically use on your built-ins
> (kitchens cabs?) for the drawer (to which you then apply the front)?
> Thanks. -- Igor
I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back. I
attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw. I
also try to use Accuride bottom center slides to save more space. Using
this slide along with the 1/2" thick stock produces a clean and space saving
drawer. When redoing a kitchen I also make the drawers go to the back of
the cabinet vs. 3" to 5" shy of the cabinet back. I want the customers to
get more room for their money.
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> Thanks. That is the info I was looking for. Also, as to the stock for
the
> drawer sides, one reason I asked is that I was wondering if it was worth
> making the rabbets with 1/2" ply stock. Obviously, you think it is. Now
> that I think about it, I suppose, beyond strength concerns, the rabbets
> help keep the front piece of the drawer box vertical and flush with the
> sides' front edges. Thanks. -- Igor
There you go Igor. The rabbets help hold every thing square during glue and
nail up and also provide a stop to limit how far the backs and fronts move
when indexing against the sides. The 1/2" Baltic is plenty strong and the
surface is quite consistent.
I have owned 2 DT jigs. An OLD Sears model that worked quite well with
normal PC guide bushings and I have owned a Leigh Jig for about 6 years.
If you just want to make simple Blind Dove Tails, you do not need a Leigh
Jig.
HOWEVER, you will have to design your drawers and projects around the jigs
capabilities in that you cannot adjust the finger spacing on the cheap DT
jigs. You will otherwise probably end up with a portion of a pin or tail on
the top or bottom of the joint.
With the Leigh DT jig, your finger spacing configurations are limitless and
you can design the drawer to fit the hole. rather than the hole to fit the
drawer. There are several other jigs that can be used with the Leigh jig.
The F1 box joint jig is excellent.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
> model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
> web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
> Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
> provide some information/advice on this topic?
>
> Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
> One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
> and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
>
>
What is your opinion on the functionality of the Porter Cable Omnijig? I
notice that the 24" model comes with both the half-blind and the through
dovetail. Did you feel that the 16" model operated well?
"Jerry Shaw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery.
What
> > model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on
the
> > web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> > Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the
Porter
> > Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can
anyone
> > provide some information/advice on this topic?
> >
> > Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail
joints?
> > One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my
kitchen
> > and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
> >
> >
>
> I recently bought, then sold, the 16" PC OmniJig. It is very well made,
with
> a heavy cast aluminum base. The clamps use heavy steel cams that span the
> entire width of the jig. However, I sold it because: 1) I immediately
wished
> I'd spent the extra $50 to get the 24" model, and 2) It requires a
different
> template for each kind of joint, and the templates are not cheap (It comes
> with the half blind dovetail template - I purchased separately the 1/2"
box
> joint template @ $80. 24" templates are undoubtedly more $). For the cost
of
> the 24" OmniJig with a couple of templates, I figured I might as well just
> get the Leigh.
>
> Jerry
>
>
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Two questions:
>
> 1. What is an applied front?
A Decorative wood front that normally matches the wood work and attached to
a drawer box. Draers built like this normally have 6 pieces of wood rather
than 5 pieces of wood.
> 2. What is a drawer joint bit? Where would I obtain such a router bit,
and
> what brand would you recommend?
The name describes its function. The joint does not lock vertically on a
drawer joint. The joint adds strength to fight the tendency for the drawer
front or back to pull away from the sides.
Almost all bit mkers make this bit. CMT, Whiteside, Amana, Freud make good
quality bits.
"philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Two questions:
>
> 1. What is an applied front?
> 2. What is a drawer joint bit? Where would I obtain such a router
> bit, and what brand would you recommend?
>
philly45, before you buy any DT jig, I think you're going to want to invest
in a couple of good books on kitchen cabinets. That will help you
understand and decide how you want to approach your goal.
The ones I have and like are "Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets", by
Jim Tolpin, and "Building Kitchen Cabinets" by Udo Schmidt. wReckers have
given great reviews to publications by John Paquay (sp?), a sometimes
contributor here, and Danny Proulx (sp?). Good threads on kitchen cabinets
are in the Google archives. I remember that Swingman has contributed
excellent advice on the topic, but then, my memory isn't what it once was
on certain details.
The point is, before you start buying tools, you, and any other 'interested
parties' will want to make a few decisions on what the results should look
like. Then, you MAY end up with fewer boxes of 'it seemed like such a good
idea at the time' investments. No guarantees.
And you may end up having the doors and drawers made commercially, when you
think it all the way through. Or not. But you will be better prepared to
make that decision.
Enjoy the ride!
Patriarch
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> Any comments on using a router for this joint versus the TS for this
joint?
For built in cabinets I prefer to cut a rabbet on the ends of the sides
glue them and brad nail them. Then, attach a front to match the rest of the
cabinet doors. I cut the rabbets on the router table.
For furniture I always use DT's or Box Joints.
>
> (For anyone's info: As shown at
http://www.kennedyhardware.com/plans.html -
> scroll down the page.)
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 20:02:02 GMT, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> >
>> Any comments on using a router for this joint versus the TS for this
>joint?
>
>For built in cabinets I prefer to cut a rabbet on the ends of the sides
>glue them and brad nail them. Then, attach a front to match the rest of the
>cabinet doors. I cut the rabbets on the router table.
>For furniture I always use DT's or Box Joints.
>>
>> (For anyone's info: As shown at
>http://www.kennedyhardware.com/plans.html -
>> scroll down the page.)
>
Leon --
Whoops -- maybe I was not clear enough in my question (at least based on my
understanding of your reply). I meant to ask about using a TS for the
drawer joint (as shown at the link I gave), versus using a special router
bit. That being said, if you're cutting rabbets with a router, I s'pose
you wouldn't use a TS for a drawer/lock joint.
BTW, what size & type stock do you typically use on your built-ins
(kitchens cabs?) for the drawer (to which you then apply the front)?
Thanks. -- Igor
It takes about an hour every day, and in one or two weeks you'll be a
pro at handcut dovetails. Spend your money on a good set of chisels,
a skew chisel, a bevel gauge, and a couple mallets. After some
practice, you can bang out a drawer by hand with the same time spent
setting up a jig & router. True, it will take less time with a jog if
you have a lot of drawers to complete. I've produced several
beautiful dovetail joints by hand.
On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 14:26:30 GMT, "philly45"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery. What
>model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on the
>web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
>Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the Porter
>Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can anyone
>provide some information/advice on this topic?
>
>Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail joints?
>One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my kitchen
>and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
>
"G.E.R.R.Y." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:070720041702377626%[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Leon
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back.
I
> > attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw.
>
> Sorry for sounding dense, but I'm having trouble visualising where you
> would use those screws. Do you mean just the screws or actual pocket
> holes? In either case, where do they go?
No pocket holes, just pocket hole STYLE screws. They are self tapping, have
a large washer head and are 1-1/8" long.
The screws go through the front of the drawer box "from the inside" to the
outside and screw into the Decorative drawer front. If the screws were
longer, they would come through the front surface of the decorative drawer
front.
Think of how drawer knobs and pulls are mounted and the direction that the
screws point.
Two questions:
1. What is an applied front?
2. What is a drawer joint bit? Where would I obtain such a router bit, and
what brand would you recommend?
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The PC is an old style jig with better hold. It's great if you're going
to
> use it for a joint only, rather than pretty, or a tour-de-force, where it
> would be better, to my way of thinking, to do by hand. You do have to
cater
> to it for the half-pins.
>
> For kitchen drawers, which normally have applied fronts, I'd use a drawer
> joint bit. If I was trying to show off, the Leigh. Makes a lot of little
> boxes with pretty through dovetails quickly, though, which is why I own
one.
>
> "philly45" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've been researching dovetail jigs since I'm interested in joinery.
What
> > model jig would the group recommend? I've seen a lot of discussion on
the
> > web about the Leigh D24 (I think?) jig. How does this compare with the
> > Porter Cable 24" Omnijig? Does anyone have any experience with the
Porter
> > Cable model? What about any experience with the Leigh model? Can
anyone
> > provide some information/advice on this topic?
> >
> > Is it really a good idea to spend that much money to make dovetail
joints?
> > One of my projects in the future, 1 to 2 years away, is to redo my
kitchen
> > and make all of the cabinets and drawers myself.
> >
> >
>
>
"D. J. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I think I understand what you are saying - the back of the drawer front is
> completely flush with the face frame on cabinets - therefore, the real
1/2"
> drawer front is flush with front of the cabinets minus the face frame.
Yes. The drawer storage area extends into the back of the face frame 1/4".
> That makes sense - never thought of that. How do you attach the false
front
> to the 1/2" front so securly to hold up over 15 years?
I use a minimum of 4, 1-1/8" long pocket hole STYLE screws from the inside
of the drawer into the back of the decorative drawer front. Easier said
that done. In real life aligning the face and attaching is difficult
unless you know the trick. Typically you want to attach the drawer front to
line up with a cabinet door below it. To do this the drawer must be closed
so that you can use a straight edge along side the lower cabinet door to
align the drawer front from side to side. I place a block of wood behind
the drawer so that the front of the drawer box remains flush with the face
frame and not push back farther into cabinet. I put in the 4 screws from
the inside of the drawer box until the points of the screws just come
through the front side of the drawer box. I then align the decorative
drawer front and press it firmly against the drawer box and the 4 screw
points. This gives me indexing locations so that I know where to mount the
decorative drawer front with the drawer open. I open the drawer and realign
the decorative drawer front with the screw points and drive the screws all
the way into the decorative front. I prefer to use self tapping screws with
larger washer heads similar to pocket hole screws.
> Yes, that's what I'm talking about - sure, I'd like to see the pic. BTW -
> when I see your name on a post, I generally open it because you're a great
> resource of info here - thanks for that.
Thank you Don. I posted a picture of a walnut night stand with the inset,
rabbeted dovetails on a.b.p.w.
>
> Don
>
>
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Try it with some hot glue to tack the front to the drawer. Works a treat.
I may try that on the next job. I have often thought of using hot melt glue
but always thought that the glue would create a gap between the drawer box
and the decorative front.
> Clamp a straight edge below and mark your references on the scrap for
> centering. Pan head machine screws work well.
The reason that I use pocket hole "Style" screws is to insure that the screw
threads are no longer in contact with the 1/2" front of the drawer box. The
smooth shank on the head end of the screw will let the drawer box snug up
tight against the decorative drawer front. If the threads are in contact
with the drawer box there is normally a gap between the two and I end up
having to unscrew and replace the screw several times.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > BTW, what size & type stock do you typically use on your built-ins
> > (kitchens cabs?) for the drawer (to which you then apply the front)?
> > Thanks. -- Igor
>
> I prefer to use 1/2" Baltic Birch for the drawer sides, front and back. I
> attach the 3/4" thick fronts with a 1-1/8" Pocket hole "style" screw. I
> also try to use Accuride bottom center slides to save more space. Using
> this slide along with the 1/2" thick stock produces a clean and space
saving
> drawer.
Over on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking with title _Goodwill Desk Rehab_ I
have links to some pictures of a desk I'm working on. The drawer DT's were
cut with a Hart Design(very much like PC 12"). The sides and backs are 5/8
in scrap and the rabbeted fronts are about .9 in. FWIW I'm very reluctant
to crosspost to both here and a.b.p.w because last time I did that I managed
to send a whole flock of identical posts...
Larry