"SimonLW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm looking for opinions on these systems and what is best. I don't know
> much about them, but I guess the system where the saw was made for the
> slider would work best. Whatvis the proper name for these? (Whould help
> with the searching!)
> Thanks,
> -S
>
Simon,
They are called Circular-Saw Edge Guide
The recent Fine Homebuilding has a review of them.
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/fh_182_092.asp
However, for me, I made one from two sheets of hardboard one offset by 6",
ran the saw down it and presto, a perfect edge guide.
Dave
>
B A R R Y wrote:
> SimonLW wrote:
> > I'm looking for opinions on these systems and what is best.
>
> For another take, think about gluing a straight, 3/4" thick board to a
> 9" or so wide strip of hardboard. When the glue dries, run the saw
> along the board, cutting the hardboard and leaving a 4", or so wide
> strip. You can then clamp your new tool to the work, the board will
> guide the saw, and the cut edge will show you where the cut will be.
>
> The same idea works great for guiding routers.
I find using a 1x as the straightedge eats up too much of the cut depth
capacity, so I use thinner stuff. If the fence piece is located at
about a third point on the plywood straightedge base you can run the
saw down both sides, cutting both edges, so you'll have a straightedge
for both sides of the saw. It's also a good idea to have assorted
lengths of these straightedges, and ones for the various saw blades.
R
RicodJour wrote:
> It's also a good idea to have assorted
> lengths of these straightedges, and ones for the various saw blades.
And yet another set for making bevel cuts, or else the saw will cut
away the edge that precisely locates where straight cuts go.
By the way, I had to file off some bumps from the shoe's edge on my
Milwaukee, in order to have a straight edge that would track squarely
along one of these guides. Has anyone else had to do this?
Regards,
Mark
SimonLW wrote:
> I'm looking for opinions on these systems and what is best.
For another take, think about gluing a straight, 3/4" thick board to a
9" or so wide strip of hardboard. When the glue dries, run the saw
along the board, cutting the hardboard and leaving a 4", or so wide
strip. You can then clamp your new tool to the work, the board will
guide the saw, and the cut edge will show you where the cut will be.
The same idea works great for guiding routers.
SimonLW wrote:
>
> I'm looking for opinions on these systems and what is best. I don't know
> much about them, but I guess the system where the saw was made for the
> slider would work best. Whatvis the proper name for these? (Whould help with
> the searching!)
> Thanks,
> -S
Are you talking about the Festool plunge circular saw with their
straight edge guide, with stops, no chip out zero clearance
cutting edge edge? At the moment Festool is the only one
making this system so there's no generic name for it yet.
Pricey system but if you're doing just sheet goods work and/
or doing on site work it looks quite handy. Particulary like the
fact that you set the cut side of the straight edge directly
on your cut line rather than on some offset to it based on
your particular circular saw. One less opportunity for a
measuring or marking mistake.
charlie b
>> "charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Are you talking about the Festool plunge circular saw with their
> > straight edge guide, with stops, no chip out zero clearance
> > cutting edge edge? At the moment Festool is the only one
> > making this system so there's no generic name for it yet.
> > Pricey system but if you're doing just sheet goods work and/
> > or doing on site work it looks quite handy. Particulary like the
> > fact that you set the cut side of the straight edge directly
> > on your cut line rather than on some offset to it based on
> > your particular circular saw. One less opportunity for a
> > measuring or marking mistake.
> >
> > charlie b
SimonLW wrote:
>
> Sounds like what I'll thinking about. I work in plexi, but don't have the
> room for a big panel saw to cut the big sheets down for the table saw.
> -S
Sounds like the Festool plunge saw and edge quide will do the
job nicely, but for a price. Check Festools site. Festool is
aggressively marketing to the amateur and small shops -
their stuff is in WoodCraft stores and most power tool
resellers so you should be able to see the set up and get
Festools DVD. You'll still need a surface to make the cuts
on but a 4x8 sheet of 1" foam insulating panel will do the
job, assuming you have a flat floor to put it on. Festool
has blades specifically for plastinc.
charlie b
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> SimonLW wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking for opinions on these systems and what is best. I don't know
>> much about them, but I guess the system where the saw was made for the
>> slider would work best. Whatvis the proper name for these? (Whould help
>> with
>> the searching!)
>> Thanks,
>> -S
>
> Are you talking about the Festool plunge circular saw with their
> straight edge guide, with stops, no chip out zero clearance
> cutting edge edge? At the moment Festool is the only one
> making this system so there's no generic name for it yet.
> Pricey system but if you're doing just sheet goods work and/
> or doing on site work it looks quite handy. Particulary like the
> fact that you set the cut side of the straight edge directly
> on your cut line rather than on some offset to it based on
> your particular circular saw. One less opportunity for a
> measuring or marking mistake.
>
> charlie b
Sounds like what I'll thinking about. I work in plexi, but don't have the
room for a big panel saw to cut the big sheets down for the table saw.
-S
RicodJour wrote:
>
> I find using a 1x as the straightedge eats up too much of the cut depth
> capacity, so I use thinner stuff.
True! I have a mini version for my Makita trim saw that the "guide" is
only 3/16" thick. Aluminum channel is also excellent for the guide bar.
It can be attached with epoxy or screws.
> It's also a good idea to have assorted
> lengths of these straightedges, and ones for the various saw blades.
More excellent details.
I always recommend the first two be ~ 52-54" and ~ 102", for obvious
reasons.
Writing the details for use of the guide (or any jig, for that matter)
right on it with a Sharpie is also helpful. I'll usually include the
specific tool it's used with, the blade or bit used, and any "gotchas" I
need to remember next time.