I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
incorporate 2 desks.
I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
and router in a design.
What I want is shelf strength and the ability of the built-ins to hold a
painted finish for along time but can be easy cleaned with a damp cloth.
The shelves will have to hold some heavy books, and the desks will be
used as homework stations.
Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
and types of joints? Costs?
Really, here in NJ it's $39 sheet of 3/4 4x8 Medium MDF. Used to be $19.
On 3/13/2012 5:15 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/13/2012 3:44 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> It's not cheap anymore. It used to be $19 for a 4x8 sheet. Now I can buy
>> a sheet of maple, birch , or oak for the same price. That's not cheap.
>>
>>
>> On 3/13/2012 11:33 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
>>> Thought you might like to see what is possible using mdf,
>>> contrary to the general public's ideas.
>>>
>>> http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/laurioffice.htm
>>>
>>> MDF is used in more things than you can possibly imagine
>>> and there is a reason for that. It is "perfectly" flat
>>> and square, holds paint like a champ and is cheap.
>>>
>>> Read the story about his wife's library.
>>>
>>> He used to be quite active here several years ago.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/8/2012 7:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>>>
>>>>>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>>>>>> incorporate 2 desks.
>
> Location location location.. LOL.. I am looking at my suppliers current
> price list for A-Grade 3/4" MDF, 4'x8' $24.95. Maple, "paint grade"
> $39.95. Maple A-1 stain grade, $69.96.
On Friday, March 9, 2012 12:22:19 PM UTC-5, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> >
> > Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> > and types of joints? Costs?
>
> Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted white. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop. What he helped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that has MDF faces about 3/32 or 1/8" thick.
>
> MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you sue some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
>
> This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that works with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all like e-core or x-core.
>
> A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and viola!
>
> I'll try to post pics tnite
Please do post pics - and I love it and totally agree. I've never worked with it, but I'm gonna start looking at it hard. Can you get it in different thicknesses - thicker than 3/4" that is?
JP
>
> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> and types of joints? Costs?
Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted white. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop. What he helped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that has MDF faces about 3/32 or 1/8" thick.
MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you sue some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that works with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all like e-core or x-core.
A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and viola!
I'll try to post pics tnite
On Saturday, March 10, 2012 3:49:46 AM UTC-8, dadiOH wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> >> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> >> and types of joints? Costs?
> >
> > Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted
> > white. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop.
> > What he helped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that
> > has MDF faces about 3/32 or 1/8" thick.
> >
> > MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you
> > sue some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
> >
> > This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that
> > works with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all
> > like e-core or x-core.
> >
> > A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and
> > viola!
>
> Generically, it is known as MDO (medium density overlay). There is also
> HDO. You can get them pre-primed if desired.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
No not MDO, that is resin and paper over ply made for road signs. I am talking about mdf over ply.
On Friday, March 9, 2012 2:03:52 PM UTC-8, JayPique wrote:
> On Friday, March 9, 2012 12:22:19 PM UTC-5, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> > > and types of joints? Costs?
> >
> > Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted white. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop. What he helped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that has MDF faces about 3/32 or 1/8" thick.
> >
> > MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you sue some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
> >
> > This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that works with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all like e-core or x-core.
> >
> > A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and viola!
> >
> > I'll try to post pics tnite
>
> Please do post pics - and I love it and totally agree. I've never worked with it, but I'm gonna start looking at it hard. Can you get it in different thicknesses - thicker than 3/4" that is?
> JP
I posted three pics on my website, the first three in the gallery. Two are my built-ins and one is of the matching fireplace surround. I haven't put the knobs on the doors yet.
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&id=3&Itemid=13
On Friday, March 9, 2012 2:03:52 PM UTC-8, JayPique wrote:
> On Friday, March 9, 2012 12:22:19 PM UTC-5, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > >=20
> > > Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials=
=20
> > > and types of joints? Costs?
> >=20
> > Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted whit=
e. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop. What he h=
elped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that has MDF faces ab=
out 3/32 or 1/8" thick.=20
> >=20
> > MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you sue =
some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
> >=20
> > This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that wor=
ks with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all like e-c=
ore or x-core.
> >=20
> > A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and viol=
a!
> >=20
> > I'll try to post pics tnite
>=20
> Please do post pics - and I love it and totally agree. I've never worked=
with it, but I'm gonna start looking at it hard. Can you get it in differ=
ent thicknesses - thicker than 3/4" that is?
> JP
I have only seen it in 1/2 and 3/4. I think I have seen it called Pro-core.=
Here is the first link I could find that calls it crossband core http://ww=
w.woodstocksupply.com/plywood.html. I also think there are different grades=
. They have one cheaper version that is for using with laminate and it is n=
ot quite as flat and can show some banding.
"Duesenberg" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
incorporate 2 desks.
I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
and router in a design.
What I want is shelf strength and the ability of the built-ins to hold a
painted finish for along time but can be easy cleaned with a damp cloth.
The shelves will have to hold some heavy books, and the desks will be
used as homework stations.
Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
and types of joints? Costs?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Made these a few years ago
https://picasaweb.google.com/116326863090696244781/Bookcases?authkey=Gv1sRgCPC8ib-atZ_RtAE#5717679621806780578
3/4" Fir plywood. Pine faces. Shelves: same plywood with pine edging.
Max
On 3/8/2012 9:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
> What's the cost difference between mdf and birch plywood. Cost is a
> factor as I'm without income (stay at home dad).
Depending upon grade, MDF will generally run you about $US10-$30/4x8
less than a top A1 Birch plywood at most places.
That said, do yourself a big favor:
... don't even consider price of your sheetgoods as a factor ...
You are not buying enough to make that big of difference in the total
cost of your project; with inferior materials you may regret that
decision later, and you want to protect your money and sweat equity in
the future.
FWIW, my livelihood comes from both building homes (with lots of
built-ins), and from cabinetmaking, and I would not normally use MDF for
casework in your situation ... mainly due to its weight, and its reduced
ability to hold screws and hardware over the life of the project.
IME, you would do much better with a good import, paint grade birch
plywood for the cabinet casework.
For and doors and drawer fronts, go ahead and use MDF, but watch the
weight should you have any large or wide doors ... in that case, simply
consider using three door hinges instead of two.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Mar 9, 9:19=A0am, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 3/8/2012 9:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>
> > What's the cost difference between mdf and birch plywood. Cost is a
> > factor as I'm without income (stay at home dad).
>
> Depending upon grade, MDF will generally run you about $US10-$30/4x8
> less than a top A1 Birch plywood at most places.
>
> That said, do yourself a big favor:
>
> =A0 ... don't even consider price of your sheetgoods as a factor ...
>
> You are not buying enough to make that big of difference in the total
> cost of your project; with inferior materials you may regret that
> decision later, and you want to protect your money and sweat equity in
> the future.
>
> FWIW, my livelihood comes from both building homes (with lots of
> built-ins), and from cabinetmaking, and I would not normally use MDF for
> casework in your situation ... mainly due to its weight, and its reduced
> ability to hold screws and hardware over the life of the project.
>
> IME, you would do much better with a good import, paint grade birch
> plywood for the cabinet casework.
>
> For and doors and drawer fronts, go ahead and use MDF, but watch the
> weight should you have any large or wide doors ... in that case, simply
> consider using three door hinges instead of two.
>
> --www.eWoodShop.com
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
What he said.
On 3/13/2012 3:48 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/13/2012 2:13 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
>> Wow...what's that one called ???
>>
>> I don't have good access to decent sheet goods and I miss
>> out on some of the newest stuff.
>>
>> Would that one called medex by any chance ?
>>
>>
>> On 3/13/2012 12:09 PM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> I might add to the extensive use of MDF, there is a "green" water
>>> resistant MDF that Swingman and I used on a kitchen job last year. We
>>> soaked a piece in a bird bath over night and it did not change shape or
>>> wick.
>
>
> It's a Temple-Inland MDF product called "UltraStock-MR":
>
> http://www.templeinland.com/BuildingProducts/MDF/ultrastock-mr.asp
>
Now why did we not buy that stuff in the 61" wide or 16' lengths
listed???? LOL
On 3/13/2012 2:13 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
> Wow...what's that one called ???
>
> I don't have good access to decent sheet goods and I miss
> out on some of the newest stuff.
>
> Would that one called medex by any chance ?
>
>
> On 3/13/2012 12:09 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>> I might add to the extensive use of MDF, there is a "green" water
>> resistant MDF that Swingman and I used on a kitchen job last year. We
>> soaked a piece in a bird bath over night and it did not change shape or
>> wick.
It's a Temple-Inland MDF product called "UltraStock-MR":
http://www.templeinland.com/BuildingProducts/MDF/ultrastock-mr.asp
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On 3/8/2012 3:26 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
> incorporate 2 desks.
>
> I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
> college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
> veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
>
> But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
> should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
> poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
> and router in a design.
Nyw of those will work but MDF is going to be quite heavy just to
handle. A paint grade birch plywood might be better and you want to use
a "top" quality water based paint that will cure hard or an alkid based
oil based paint.
Consider also, white melamine for the in sides, NO PAINTING. Just paint
your face frames.
>
> What I want is shelf strength and the ability of the built-ins to hold a
> painted finish for along time but can be easy cleaned with a damp cloth.
> The shelves will have to hold some heavy books, and the desks will be
> used as homework stations.
>
> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> and types of joints? Costs?
MDF would be fine for paint grade upright pieces.
For Shelves, it would depend on the weight of what you are putting and
the span, but with mdf you would put an edge on it, and that would
strengthen it. Also you could put a lip in the back and that would
really add to the strength. Otherwise sanded ply makes a good choice for
this project. And yes poplar is a good choice for edging both choices.
Here is a link for calculating the shelving load.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
Hope this helps.
On 3/8/2012 4:26 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
> incorporate 2 desks.
>
> I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
> college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
> veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
>
> But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
> should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
> poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
> and router in a design.
>
> What I want is shelf strength and the ability of the built-ins to hold a
> painted finish for along time but can be easy cleaned with a damp cloth.
> The shelves will have to hold some heavy books, and the desks will be
> used as homework stations.
>
> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> and types of joints? Costs?
It's not cheap anymore. It used to be $19 for a 4x8 sheet. Now I can buy
a sheet of maple, birch , or oak for the same price. That's not cheap.
On 3/13/2012 11:33 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
> Thought you might like to see what is possible using mdf,
> contrary to the general public's ideas.
>
> http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/laurioffice.htm
>
> MDF is used in more things than you can possibly imagine
> and there is a reason for that. It is "perfectly" flat
> and square, holds paint like a champ and is cheap.
>
> Read the story about his wife's library.
>
> He used to be quite active here several years ago.
>
>
> On 3/8/2012 7:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>
>>>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>>>> incorporate 2 desks.
On 3/8/2012 4:46 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> MDF would be fine for paint grade upright pieces.
> For Shelves, it would depend on the weight of what you are putting and
> the span, but with mdf you would put an edge on it, and that would
> strengthen it. Also you could put a lip in the back and that would
> really add to the strength. Otherwise sanded ply makes a good choice for
> this project. And yes poplar is a good choice for edging both choices.
>
> Here is a link for calculating the shelving load.
> http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
For MDF shelving strenght I thought about a housed/dado joint for the
shelving ends i.e. 1/4" into sides. I have access to a panel saw and
table saws with nice 6 foot table tops and dado blade sets.
Is this idea used with mdf? I've done it myself with vaneered wood and
plywood.
On 3/8/2012 6:24 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/8/2012 3:26 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>> incorporate 2 desks.
>>
>> I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
>> college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
>> veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
>>
>> But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
>> should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
>> poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
>> and router in a design.
>
> Nyw of those will work but MDF is going to be quite heavy just to
> handle. A paint grade birch plywood might be better and you want to use
> a "top" quality water based paint that will cure hard or an alkid based
> oil based paint.
>
> Consider also, white melamine for the in sides, NO PAINTING. Just paint
> your face frames.
If I chose MDF I would have the supplier cut the pieces for me. That'll
ensure they are at least square and it'll be easier for me to handle at
home.
As for the melamine, I thot about using that type of shelving but my
wife wants things painted a certain off-white.
unfortunately oil based paints are now illegal to sell around here so
I'd invest in good primer and then good quality paint ie Aura from benny
moore.
What's the cost difference between mdf and birch plywood. Cost is a
factor as I'm without income (stay at home dad).
Duesenberg wrote:
> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
> incorporate 2 desks.
>
> I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
> college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
> veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
>
> But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
> should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
> poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
> and router in a design.
>
> What I want is shelf strength and the ability of the built-ins to
> hold a painted finish for along time but can be easy cleaned with a
> damp cloth. The shelves will have to hold some heavy books, and the
> desks will be used as homework stations.
>
> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
> and types of joints? Costs?
Of your three proffered options, I would use poplar. Someone suggested
birch ply...it would be my choice, for the cases at least.
Where I live, sheets of birch ply and MDF are about the same price...about
$45 per 4' x 8' sheet.
MDF could work OK - not great but just OK - for the cases but I'd never use
it for shelves that hold any weight regardless of the span. Ply isn't all
that great either. The ability of a shelf to hold weight without sagging
depends upon the material, the weight and the span. I like to keep shelves
under 36". Longer shelves can be greatly stiffened with 1x2 verical strips
under front and back. Or even centered. See here...
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
For paint, I would prefer poplar or MDF. Pine - like fir - tends to
telegraph the hard/soft wood differences through the paint; not impossible
to overcome but why struggle?
Since you are going to paint and have to (unfortunately) use latex, use a
flat paint on the shelves as stuff will stick to glossy latex for months,
maybe years. The alternative is to use gloss/semi-gloss and topcoat with a
water borne poly to keep stuff from sticking. The same can be done over
flat latex to match the sheen of other components and ease cleaning.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On 3/9/12 9:23 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Mar 9, 9:19 am, Swingman<[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 3/8/2012 9:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>>
>>> What's the cost difference between mdf and birch plywood. Cost is a
>>> factor as I'm without income (stay at home dad).
>>
>> Depending upon grade, MDF will generally run you about $US10-$30/4x8
>> less than a top A1 Birch plywood at most places.
>>
>> That said, do yourself a big favor:
>>
>> ... don't even consider price of your sheetgoods as a factor ...
>>
>> You are not buying enough to make that big of difference in the total
>> cost of your project; with inferior materials you may regret that
>> decision later, and you want to protect your money and sweat equity in
>> the future.
>>
>> FWIW, my livelihood comes from both building homes (with lots of
>> built-ins), and from cabinetmaking, and I would not normally use MDF for
>> casework in your situation ... mainly due to its weight, and its reduced
>> ability to hold screws and hardware over the life of the project.
>>
>> IME, you would do much better with a good import, paint grade birch
>> plywood for the cabinet casework.
>>
>> For and doors and drawer fronts, go ahead and use MDF, but watch the
>> weight should you have any large or wide doors ... in that case, simply
>> consider using three door hinges instead of two.
>>
>> --www.eWoodShop.com
>> Last update: 4/15/2010
>> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
>
> What he said.
What they said.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Duesenberg" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
incorporate 2 desks.
I've built carcasses and drawers and night stands and tables in a
college night school coarse but I've always been supplied the oak/oak
veneer, and I've built using their measurements and instructions.
But for my first project at home I'm confused on the type of wood I
should choose. My wife wants everything white so I'm deciding between
poplar, pine or MDF. Even with MDF, I'll most likely use poplar faces
and router in a design.
Skip the poplar. I recently did a big kitchen job for myself and I regret
using the poplar. Seems it is now grown too fast, and is very unstable.
One pair of doors I will have to start from scratch, they are so warped.
Others not so good, but not worth doing them again, now.
Use birch ply and birch for the face frames, I think. Maple would be
another good choice for the face frame?
There is oak, but be prepared to do some heavy grain filling before trying
to paint that stuff. I started the project with some built in china
cabinets, which were to be whitewashed stained at the time I bought the wood
and started cutting, but before they were done, it had turned to paint.
I must have put 10 coats of sanding sealer and 3 coats of paint before I was
satisfied. Boy, are they slick, true and hard, though. I almost wish I
would not have switched to the poplar, even with all the work of painting
the oak.
-- Jim in NC
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> Anyone care to share experiences on what they did, types of materials
>> and types of joints? Costs?
>
> Everyone else is wrong. I just finished personal built-ins painted
> white. I consulted my buddy who owns a highe-end custom cabinet shop.
> What he helped me buy was venere core plywood (normal plywood) that
> has MDF faces about 3/32 or 1/8" thick.
>
> MDF has no strength and doesn't take screws well at all unless you
> sue some special (conformant) screws and they are a hassle.
>
> This material is not super common but every good wood supplied that
> works with cabinet shops can get it. It has different brand names all
> like e-core or x-core.
>
> A quick coat of 123 primer a quick sand, some semi-gloss white and
> viola!
Generically, it is known as MDO (medium density overlay). There is also
HDO. You can get them pre-primed if desired.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Thought you might like to see what is possible using mdf,
contrary to the general public's ideas.
http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/laurioffice.htm
MDF is used in more things than you can possibly imagine
and there is a reason for that. It is "perfectly" flat
and square, holds paint like a champ and is cheap.
Read the story about his wife's library.
He used to be quite active here several years ago.
On 3/8/2012 7:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>>> incorporate 2 desks.
Wow...what's that one called ???
I don't have good access to decent sheet goods and I miss
out on some of the newest stuff.
Would that one called medex by any chance ?
On 3/13/2012 12:09 PM, Leon wrote:
> I might add to the extensive use of MDF, there is a "green" water
> resistant MDF that Swingman and I used on a kitchen job last year. We
> soaked a piece in a bird bath over night and it did not change shape or
> wick.
Now that's quite a picture on the opening screen...
MDF for counter tops is a very impressive product and
has to be nicer than older particle board materials.
That's what living in the big city can get you.
Thanks Karl..
On 3/13/2012 1:48 PM, Swingman wrote:
> It's a Temple-Inland MDF product called "UltraStock-MR":
>
> http://www.templeinland.com/BuildingProducts/MDF/ultrastock-mr.asp
>
On 3/13/2012 3:44 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> It's not cheap anymore. It used to be $19 for a 4x8 sheet. Now I can buy
> a sheet of maple, birch , or oak for the same price. That's not cheap.
>
>
> On 3/13/2012 11:33 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
>> Thought you might like to see what is possible using mdf,
>> contrary to the general public's ideas.
>>
>> http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/laurioffice.htm
>>
>> MDF is used in more things than you can possibly imagine
>> and there is a reason for that. It is "perfectly" flat
>> and square, holds paint like a champ and is cheap.
>>
>> Read the story about his wife's library.
>>
>> He used to be quite active here several years ago.
>>
>>
>> On 3/8/2012 7:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>>
>>>>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>>>>> incorporate 2 desks.
Location location location.. LOL.. I am looking at my suppliers current
price list for A-Grade 3/4" MDF, 4'x8' $24.95. Maple, "paint grade"
$39.95. Maple A-1 stain grade, $69.96.
On 3/13/2012 10:33 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
> Thought you might like to see what is possible using mdf,
> contrary to the general public's ideas.
>
> http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/laurioffice.htm
>
> MDF is used in more things than you can possibly imagine
> and there is a reason for that. It is "perfectly" flat
> and square, holds paint like a champ and is cheap.
>
> Read the story about his wife's library.
>
> He used to be quite active here several years ago.
>
>
> On 3/8/2012 7:49 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
>
>>>> I wish to build a series of built-ins along a 14 foot wall. I have to
>>>> incorporate 2 desks.
I might add to the extensive use of MDF, there is a "green" water
resistant MDF that Swingman and I used on a kitchen job last year. We
soaked a piece in a bird bath over night and it did not change shape or
wick.