After going at coopered doors mathematically and doing
some prototypes/experiments, first in MDF and then with
shorts/scraps using various blade angle/fence set ups,
I learned the following:
1. Algebra, trig and geometry will get you sizes and
angles that work - but it gives me a headache AND
I got lost in the calcs, the blade / fence set ups,
and making the cuts, overlooking the continuity
of the grain on the outside face of the doors
2. Efficiency and aesthetics/ esthetics are often
mutually exclusive. The One Blade Angle/One
Fence set up was efficient, but the grain continuity
was sacrificed. The rip all "staves" to initial width
then set the blade angle and fence to bevel the
edges takes a little longer but gives nicer
looking results - if you pay attention.
3. Marking the "good face" and keeping the marked
good face down on the saw table, then numbering
the parts as their cut, with an arrow identifying
which way is "UP", is essential to keeping the
grain continuity straight (unless you're a Rubic's
Cube expert.)
4. Making a glue up jig with holes for clamping and tape
on the top edges to keep from gluing the doors
to the jig sounds great - BUT
- the outside of the doors, the part that would show.
was "down" where I couldn't see if the joints were
tight on the outside - the critical face.
- tape is SLIPPERY! and the parts slid all over hell
when I tried clamping them up
Putting glue on two adjacent edges, rubbing them
together and then using rubber bands to hold
them together works and is a lot easier than
making something to make something.
5. A thin kerf carbide circular saw blade is a lot
quieter than a 10" regular kerf Forrest WWII,
doesn't eat up as much wood, is MUCH less
expensive and is almost impossible to kickback
6. Make the coopered doors first then build the
cabinet to fit them.
Have posted shot of the honey (or is it black?) locust
coopered doors with 8 or ten coats of one pound
cut dewaxed garnet shellac (kids prefer its other
name - bug spit) to a.b.p.w. These boards have a
lot of chatoyancy (think of tiger eye or star saphires)
which a photo just doesn't do justice.
Fun this woodworking thing.
charlie b
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:26:22 -0700, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After going at coopered doors mathematically and doing
>some prototypes/experiments, first in MDF and then with
>shorts/scraps using various blade angle/fence set ups,
>I learned the following:
... snip
>
>Have posted shot of the honey (or is it black?) locust
>coopered doors with 8 or ten coats of one pound
>cut dewaxed garnet shellac (kids prefer its other
>name - bug spit) to a.b.p.w. These boards have a
>lot of chatoyancy (think of tiger eye or star saphires)
>which a photo just doesn't do justice.
>
They look good.
>Fun this woodworking thing.
>
It's fun when things finally work out the way one wants, isn't it?
>charlie b
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 20:26:22 -0700, charlie b <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>After going at coopered doors mathematically and doing
>some prototypes/experiments, first in MDF and then with
>shorts/scraps using various blade angle/fence set ups,
>I learned the following:
>
>1. Algebra, trig and geometry will get you sizes and
> angles that work - but it gives me a headache AND
> I got lost in the calcs, the blade / fence set ups,
> and making the cuts, overlooking the continuity
> of the grain on the outside face of the doors
Condolences, but it serves ya right for getting so bleedin'
-complex- about the whole thing, charlie.
>2. Efficiency and aesthetics/ esthetics are often
> mutually exclusive. The One Blade Angle/One
> Fence set up was efficient, but the grain continuity
> was sacrificed. The rip all "staves" to initial width
> then set the blade angle and fence to bevel the
> edges takes a little longer but gives nicer
> looking results - if you pay attention.
Using a sacrificial fence, you could have cut them face-up
while matching grain, I'da thunk. (Would those sharp little
triangles have tickled or hurt going through your gut like
that?)
>3. Marking the "good face" and keeping the marked
> good face down on the saw table, then numbering
> the parts as their cut, with an arrow identifying
> which way is "UP", is essential to keeping the
> grain continuity straight (unless you're a Rubic's
> Cube expert.)
Cabinetmaker's triangle?
>4. Making a glue up jig with holes for clamping and tape
> on the top edges to keep from gluing the doors
> to the jig sounds great - BUT
> - the outside of the doors, the part that would show.
> was "down" where I couldn't see if the joints were
> tight on the outside - the critical face.
> - tape is SLIPPERY! and the parts slid all over hell
> when I tried clamping them up
> Putting glue on two adjacent edges, rubbing them
> together and then using rubber bands to hold
> them together works and is a lot easier than
> making something to make something.
Howzbout making a vertical clamping jig, face-forward?
>5. A thin kerf carbide circular saw blade is a lot
> quieter than a 10" regular kerf Forrest WWII,
> doesn't eat up as much wood, is MUCH less
> expensive and is almost impossible to kickback
I don't believe HF makes a $5 thin-kerf, so I'm SOL. ;)
>6. Make the coopered doors first then build the
> cabinet to fit them.
Verily.
>Have posted shot of the honey (or is it black?) locust
>coopered doors with 8 or ten coats of one pound
>cut dewaxed garnet shellac (kids prefer its other
>name - bug spit) to a.b.p.w. These boards have a
>lot of chatoyancy (think of tiger eye or star saphires)
>which a photo just doesn't do justice.
Lookin' damned good as it is, dude. Kudos. Are you shaping
those inside and out as well as cutting the kerf angles?
>Fun this woodworking thing.
Yeah, if you pay attention. ;)
I'm going to finish those blasted carving bench legs TODAY.
I decided that the original 1/8" variance in the spacers
resultedin a 1/4 variance at the top, so I'll cut a new one
for that pair this morning.
I'm going to look at an old travel-trailer-turned-flatbed today.
They want $250 for an 18x8' trailer on which they have hauled
3,000 lbs of hay, so it's apparently a sturdy sumbish. It needs
planks and wiring and they thought they could get $1,200 for it
if they had done that themselves. We'll see.
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