Gene,
You might want to get a copy of this book:
Woodworking with the Router
by: Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack
ISBN: 0-7621-0227-6
It contains plans for a real nice router table, plus plans for all
kinds of router table support stuff, like fences, jigs, etc. I
promise that you'll learn a lot from this book.
Rob
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, [email protected] (Gene) wrote:
>Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
>I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
>and I'd like to build a good one.
>
>tnx.
>
"Gene" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> and I'd like to build a good one.
>
> tnx.
>
>
A while ago I posted pics of the table that I designed and built. You can see it at
http://www.usenet-replayer.com/cgi/content/archive?scan=al+reid+router+table&anz=90&dir=1 .
If you use AutoCAD, I could email you the plans.
--
Al Reid
How will I know when I get there...
If I don't know where I'm going?
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 10:06:38 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table
>saw.
>
>Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use
>your rip fence, etc..
Except for the total lack of chip collection, loss of space under the
wing, and giving up the ability to leave both setups untouched.
If space is tight, it's great, otherwise, I've got the tee-shirt and
bumper sticker from that place. <G>
Barry
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, [email protected] (Gene) wrote:
>Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
>I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
>and I'd like to build a good one.
I built the one in FWW about Apr/May 2004, at least in a preliminary
form, the bells and whistles get added later. It works great and cost
me about $25-30 plus a few scrap offcuts of MDF. The most expensive
part was $5 for a lump of 9mm acrylic.
Your library should have the magazine.
Barry Lennox
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan
> from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails,
> used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several
> dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room!
>
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, [email protected] (Gene) wrote:
>
> >Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> >I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> >and I'd like to build a good one.
> >
> >tnx.
> >
>
I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done. So far I
find the plan to be excellent.
Dick Snyder
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> and I'd like to build a good one.
>
IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table
saw.
Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use
your rip fence, etc..
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 10:06:38 -0700, Larry Blanchard
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table
> >saw.
> >
> Except for the total lack of chip collection, loss of space under the
> wing, and giving up the ability to leave both setups untouched.
>
Well, since my rip fence is homemade, chip collection could be easily
added - I haven't yet.
The space is available when I'm not routing - I don't leave the router
itself there. Of course, I have to move what I store there when I put
in the router.
I agree with you on the ability to leave both saw and router set up.
But my space is, as you mention, tight and I don't use the router all
that often.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
How elaborate do you want to get? The one here is about as basic as can
be, and, if you've watched the boys, undeniably useful.
http://www.oak-park.com/
"Gene" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> and I'd like to build a good one.
>
> tnx.
>
>
My MDO box is stored under my JET belt/disc sander. It's got a bottom
designed to be clamped into a Workmate, and the height to match.
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'm happy with my shop made version. It's simply an MDF box with a
> double thickness top.
>
> <http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/routertable2.jpg>
>
> Why not design your own? Simply start with a table height that's best
> for you, and work from there. Building your own stuff from scratch
> can be quite rewarding.
>
> Barry
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I am currently making Norm's router station. I am about half done.
Could you speed it up? Norm is waiting for you to finish it as he has a lot
of work to do.
If you have the space a dedicated router table is the way to go IMO.
The problem I have w/ it in the saw is when I route long peices - i like to
support both in and out feed - Im not the tallest guy in the world so
supporting the outfeed is a PITA.
The good thing about a router table is stock going right to left allows good
support on both sides of the bit.
(Again IMO)
good luck.
BTW - norms plans are good - but if you look at it - and the others on the
net for free - you can come up w/ what will work best for you.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> > I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> > and I'd like to build a good one.
> >
> IMNSHO, the best router table is one that replaces a wing on your table
> saw.
>
> Think about it. The space, the stability, no need to store it away, use
> your rip fence, etc..
>
> --
> Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having
built it, I found that you will need to build your
top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can
find.
It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as
well as the max.
I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom.
Never Enough Money wrote:
> I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
> underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's
> design? The web page says 36" by 26".
>
[email protected] (Gene) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
Google the archives for AURT or An Ultimate Router Table. That project was
great in itself, but also started a minor landslide of "well, I did mine
like this" posts. Built by the fellow with Delta gray speckles on his
workboots, over there by the stack of old tools documentation.
Or almost any of the better ww magazines have had articles in the past two
years. The one I liked best was, unfortunately, in Woodwork, which has no
online presence...
Patriarch
Years ago, I built a kitchen cart with a butcher block top, 24"x36". We
moved a couple times, and I took the cart apart and kept the butcher block.
Later, I built the NYWS router table, adapting it to use the butcher block,
with T-track attached to hold down the fence. It has worked great, and
garnered many compliments. Go for it - be adaptable.
Steve
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Norm's table is a wee bit oversize and after having
> built it, I found that you will need to build your
> top, cause nobody makes a 36" wide top that I can
> find.
>
> It would appear that 32" is the magic number, as
> well as the max.
>
> I would buy the top and "then" build the bottom.
>
>
> Never Enough Money wrote:
>> I was wanting to buy a phenolic table top and build everything
>> underneath. What size table top would I need to go on top on Norm's
>> design? The web page says 36" by 26".
>>
>
The new Norm Abrams router table is improved. You can order a plan
from the NYW web site. I made one, but hand cut all the dovetails,
used recycled pallet wood for the drawer fronts, and turned several
dogwood knobs. It looks nice enough for the living room!
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, [email protected] (Gene) wrote:
>Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
>I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
>and I'd like to build a good one.
>
>tnx.
>
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:48:44 GMT, [email protected] (Gene) wrote:
>Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
>I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
>and I'd like to build a good one.
I'm happy with my shop made version. It's simply an MDF box with a
double thickness top.
<http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/routertable2.jpg>
I can pass along measurements if you need them, but I don't haven
plans.
Why not design your own? Simply start with a table height that's best
for you, and work from there. Building your own stuff from scratch
can be quite rewarding.
Barry
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:09:07 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Well, since my rip fence is homemade, chip collection could be easily
>added - I haven't yet.
Don't rush. Even with a DC or vacuum connection to the fence, plenty
of trash goes out the bottom, especially with large bits. With a
large bit and the vacuum running, I was still able to make about a 20
foot circle of chips! <G>
I had thought of building an MDF enclosure for underneath, but when
airflow and chip removal was considered, building a whole table was
just as easy.
With space at a premium, a box underneath and chip removal via the box
would work for the wing. The airflow down through the box would keep
the motor cool as it removed the waste.
>The space is available when I'm not routing - I don't leave the router
>itself there. Of course, I have to move what I store there when I put
>in the router.
Another reason I gave up on the wing was surface height. I'm 6'1",
and a taller table is much easier on the back. My shop made table is
5 inches taller than my saw surface.
However, tight space is tight space!
Barry
[email protected] (Gene) writes:
> Can someone recommend a source of plans for a _good_ router table?
> I'm totally fed up with the cheapie metal stamped one I have now
> and I'd like to build a good one.
I didn't use plans, but it's easy enough to figure it out from the
pictures: http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/