I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
the rows and columns with the appropriate letters/numbers. I was
thinking of using a letter stamp to stamp each of the letters, then
filling the indent with some hard wax, sanding, then staining and
varnishing over top. (it is important to me that the top is
perfectly smooth) Will this work, or am I asking for trouble (note: I
plan on using hardwood -- probably maple and mahogany).
I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
John
Tue, Feb 15, 2005, 11:01am [email protected]
(julvr) says:
<snip> I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
Oh, it'll work. Definitely work. I've not tried it, so just don't
know how well. I'd not opt for the smallest letter stamp, I don't think
detail would be great with them - but never can tell, I'd try to borrow
a set and see how they turn out. OR, Harbor Freight has sets for around
$5-6.
Personally, I don't see why you'd want to label the rows and
columns. I'm not clear on that either. Do you want to label JUST the
rows and columns? If so, you might want to consider a border row, with
the letters & numbers there, maybe scrollsawed; possibly print on paper,
and glue them on. Or, do you want to label each, and every, square. If
I was going to do it, I think I might use calligraphy, on a border row.
JOAT
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 13:01:16 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]> wrote:
> There's a spring loaded gizmo that holds letter stamps.
> Press down and it works like a trip hammer - stamping
> with consistent force. BUT - as noted earlier, alignment
> is not trivial with this thing.
Thing is, different letters have different volumes of metal
(wups, wood) that they'll displace - so an I will go deeper
with the same force than a W will.
> Maybe rub on letters and a water based poly over
> it would be easier.
maybe a very light hit with the letter stamps, followed by hand
carving?
Dave Hinz
"julvr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
> am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
> the rows and columns with the appropriate letters/numbers. I was
> thinking of using a letter stamp to stamp each of the letters, then
> filling the indent with some hard wax, sanding, then staining and
> varnishing over top. (it is important to me that the top is
> perfectly smooth) Will this work, or am I asking for trouble (note: I
> plan on using hardwood -- probably maple and mahogany).
>
> I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
>
>
> John
Instead of stamping, how about metal inlays.
Don't put characters on each square, just label one end of each row at the
border.
Also, at the bottom of each column.
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
>
> on 2/15/2005 10:01 AM julvr said the following:
> > I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
> > am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
> > [snip]
> > filling the indent with some hard wax, sanding, then staining and
> > varnishing over top. (it is important to me that the top is
> > perfectly smooth) Will this work, or am I asking for trouble (note: I
> > plan on using hardwood -- probably maple and mahogany).
>
> I would question the ability to maintain a finished, perfectly smooth
> top using wax to fill in the indented letters/numbers. Aren't there
> some two-part epoxy compounds you could mix up and lay in there and
> then, after it's cured, sand it flush?
>
> > I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
>
> Whatever method you choose, why not do a test run by taking a small,
> flat-bladed screw driver and create a letter "L" in test stock and see
> how it works? THEN buy the lettering set if it works out.
One thing I think is it will be difficult to get them precisely in line
and square as they have a pretty small dimension. I'd think it
necessary to use an alignment fence to get them where they need to be,
but possible w/ care. I certainly would want to practice several times
before I went at it w/ the final product.
I agree that an epoxy as a filler would probably be much more reliable.
There's a spring loaded gizmo that holds letter stamps.
Press down and it works like a trip hammer - stamping
with consistent force. BUT - as noted earlier, alignment
is not trivial with this thing.
You could get just the letter stamps and wack 'em with
a hammer. Alignment is still an issue and getting
consistent force is not easy.
BTW - despite the mahogany descriptor of "hardwood",
it really isn't that hard. So if you use the trip hammer
gizmo, the letter indentations will be deeper in the
mahogany than in the maple.
Maybe rub on letters and a water based poly over
it would be easier.
charlie b
I'd be scared that contraction/expansion of the metal would cause the
finish (varnish) to crack or get wrecked. I think from the previous
posts, I may forgo labeling the rows and columns. I've put together a
model without the labels, and it looks decent without them
(see www.virtualautomateddevice.com/XTable.jpg ).
Thanks for all the advice
John
You can't use wax and then varnish over it. Use epoxy resin which you can
color. The varnish will work well over that.
max
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
> am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
> the rows and columns with the appropriate letters/numbers. I was
> thinking of using a letter stamp to stamp each of the letters, then
> filling the indent with some hard wax, sanding, then staining and
> varnishing over top. (it is important to me that the top is
> perfectly smooth) Will this work, or am I asking for trouble (note: I
> plan on using hardwood -- probably maple and mahogany).
>
> I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
>
>
> John
>
on 2/15/2005 10:01 AM julvr said the following:
> I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
> am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
> [snip]
> filling the indent with some hard wax, sanding, then staining and
> varnishing over top. (it is important to me that the top is
> perfectly smooth) Will this work, or am I asking for trouble (note: I
> plan on using hardwood -- probably maple and mahogany).
I would question the ability to maintain a finished, perfectly smooth
top using wax to fill in the indented letters/numbers. Aren't there
some two-part epoxy compounds you could mix up and lay in there and
then, after it's cured, sand it flush?
> I don't want to buy the letter stamps if this won't work.
Whatever method you choose, why not do a test run by taking a small,
flat-bladed screw driver and create a letter "L" in test stock and see
how it works? THEN buy the lettering set if it works out.
On 15 Feb 2005 11:01:04 -0500,
[email protected] (julvr) wrote:
>I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps.
Rarely a good one.
I think your biggest problem will be getting the _depth_ of the stamps
to be the same. These stamps are designed for use on metal and form a
groove that's triangular in cross-section. Any variation in depth
gives a variation in width. Unless the depth is accurately consistent,
then I think this variation will look uneven and sloppy.
Try it on an offcut of the same timber and see how it looks. You'll be
wanting offcuts anyway, as they're always handy to test out finishes
upon them.
To align the stamps, an essential tool for use with these letter
stamps is a length of broad steel L-angle. Clamp this down and use it
as a "ruler" to align the stamp's edge. A fast tap with a very light
hammer usually gives a better and more consistent impression than a
heavy hammer or mallet.
As for the infill, then I'd second the epoxy suggestion. Fill this
epoxy with a soft mineral filler (microballoons are best, but you
could use chalk whiting or talc). This makes the cured epoxy softer to
work and reduces brittle pull-out of thin lines. Sand or scrape it
smooth, but wait at least twice as long as you expect curing to take
place before attacking it - these are very thin lines !
Personally I'd carve the letters, rather than stamping them. Even
beginner's carving would look better than an uneven stamp.
--
Smert' spamionam
I goofed up my post on this. you can only really stamp endgrain well. you may or
may not get away with doing face grain depending on the wood. but it usually
mashes. this problem killed me stamping my marking knives. really the only way
is to carve it out or burn it in. you can get letter holders to hold the
numbers/letters in place.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On 15 Feb 2005 11:01:04 -0500, [email protected] (julvr)
wrote:
>I was wondering if anyone had any experience using letter stamps. I
>am inlaying a chess board into a table top, and would like to label
>the rows and columns with the appropriate letters/numbers. I was
>thinking of using a letter stamp to stamp each of the letters, then
>filling the indent with some hard wax,
they really only work well on endgrain.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.